What did you do to your 5th gen today?? -V4

Still searching for the rattling clunk in the front driver side suspension.

 

Disconnected sway bar links and drove around...still rattling.

 

So back on the lift...Everything in the bottom is new (Big/small arm bushings, ball joints, sway bar bushings/links) so checked tightness on everything. Driver side bushing fasteners were able to be tightened a bit.

 

Clunking seems most noticeable while slow braking on uneven roads so checked caliper slide pins and padded slide pin bushing up with a bit of electrical tape temporarily.

 

After all this there is still a bit of clunking rattle on uneven roads mostly while braking and almost at a stop.

 

Could almost worn out pads be the problem? I'm at about 85% worn. I see posts online of people mentioning pads causing clunks on Subarus but I have never experienced it on any other brand of car Ive ever owned!

 

And I just realized our market spec struts are inverted Bilsteins like the STI...could it ve the dreaded STI strut clunk??

Edited May 9, 2018 by Scubaboo
Speling

Installed heated/foldable side mirrors.

Quick and easy installation.

I found them on eBay, says is original Subaru parts but who knows. The box looks legit but I don't really care.

They come without the back cover or mirror but that's an easy transfer.

Very happy with the purchase.

 

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Washed and wax it

http://i1245.photobucket.com/albums/gg597/chillwill7007/the%20subbie%20pt2/20180509_140514.jpg

 

http://i1245.photobucket.com/albums/gg597/chillwill7007/the%20subbie%20pt2/20180509_140532.jpg

 

http://i1245.photobucket.com/albums/gg597/chillwill7007/the%20subbie%20pt2/20180509_140524.jpg

I buy a pack of Solo cups and keep it in a cabinet in the garage.

I've kept the same cup with the funnels and drain pan

 

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...I checked my oil, it looks like my LGT is eating oil now at about 81k on the odo. About 1500-miles after an oil change I'm low again. There's no oil in my driveway, garage, or any other parking spots I use though and my exhaust looks normal. Any ideas?

Check the pcv valve, and pull the intake off and check for oil in there, might be turbo shaft seal.

After almost 5yrs of ownership, I've just popped my 1st code. P0420 Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold. Reset the code and will see if it pops up again on my drive home this afternoon, but from light reading it doesn't seem like a huge issue.

I installed or rather attempted to install my kdt903 rear diff bushings, one side the nut broke loose easily enough, and I was able to insert the bushing and tighten down with the washer, However when I attempted to unscrew the second one, the nut seems to be seized on the stud, so as I turn, the entire stud with nut comes out.

 

my question is.... Can I safely remove the stud, break the nut and reinstall or is the stud actually supposed to be locking into something? Is that stud like an engine stud that just screws into a cavity? Can I remove the stud without something happening.. eg won't be able to get the stud back in for whatever reason.

After almost 5yrs of ownership, I've just popped my 1st code. P0420 Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold. Reset the code and will see if it pops up again on my drive home this afternoon, but from light reading it doesn't seem like a huge issue.

You may not get enough drive cycles in to throw the code again right away. Should come back with a few days though. You can replace the sensor or tune out the code. It's just a check to ensure the catalytic converter is operating at the factory determined efficiency for the stock tune.

You may not get enough drive cycles in to throw the code again right away. Should come back with a few days though. You can replace the sensor or tune out the code. It's just a check to ensure the catalytic converter is operating at the factory determined efficiency for the stock tune.

 

Thanks for the heads up. I went ahead and ordered an O2 sensor from RockAuto anyways. The GT has 81xxx miles on it now, figured I was due for some parts to start being replaced.

 

Also I'm stage 1 protuned by COBB for the last 2+yrs

Edited May 10, 2018 by Zee199969

After almost 5yrs of ownership, I've just popped my 1st code. P0420 Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold. Reset the code and will see if it pops up again on my drive home this afternoon, but from light reading it doesn't seem like a huge issue.

 

Ha! I get that every couple of weeks. Either my AVO Jpipe's cat is finally starting to go or the sensor... either way, I called The Shop and they said they can prob kill the code via the AP. I'm going to wander down sometime so they can rebuild my coilovers so I'll have them do that at the same time.

Yea I'm hoping my stock cat isn't going...The Shop is literally down the street from me. I'll probably ask them to install my front and rear control arms cuz I'm feeling lazy Edited May 10, 2018 by Zee199969

I installed or rather attempted to install my kdt903 rear diff bushings, one side the nut broke loose easily enough, and I was able to insert the bushing and tighten down with the washer, However when I attempted to unscrew the second one, the nut seems to be seized on the stud, so as I turn, the entire stud with nut comes out.

 

my question is.... Can I safely remove the stud, break the nut and reinstall or is the stud actually supposed to be locking into something? Is that stud like an engine stud that just screws into a cavity? Can I remove the stud without something happening.. eg won't be able to get the stud back in for whatever reason.

 

 

Nobody?

Nobody?

 

nothing here... would the vacation picts help show info?

nothing here... would the vacation picts help show info?

 

it just shows the removal of the bushing with the special tool from subaru ... it doesn't actually show where that stud attaches to. in the pdf the diff is already removed and in the diff removal pdf it just shows the removal of the nuts.

9. Rear Differential Mount Bushing.pdf

I would use some loctite and reinstall it and torque it down. Or get it good and tight.

If you're not going with the BFH removal method, rent one of these bad boys from your auto parts store of choice. Worked really well when I changed all the studs on my Baja, although conveniently enough, the only stud it kept slipping off of was the one that was broken. I think O'Reilly called it a GM tie rod separator or something like that, but the bottom of this one hooks onto the back of the hub flange pretty well.

 

http://i1.adis.ws/i/washford/695494?w=637&h=403

 

when I did the studs on my 03 legacy one or two whacks with a regular hammer did the trick...

I had to use a regular hammer to knock out the broken stud, but the reason for using something other than a hammer is that you're reducing the amount of shock side-loading you're applying to the wheel bearings. They can handle a little bit of abuse, but they're not spec'd for that kind of shock load, especially not on a regular basis. A bigger hammer (engineer's hammer or similar) would be better than a claw hammer, since you'd be more likely to knock the stud out clean in one hit rather than banging on it and beating up the bearing. Edited May 11, 2018 by cww516
autocucumber

I installed or rather attempted to install my kdt903 rear diff bushings, one side the nut broke loose easily enough, and I was able to insert the bushing and tighten down with the washer, However when I attempted to unscrew the second one, the nut seems to be seized on the stud, so as I turn, the entire stud with nut comes out.

 

my question is.... Can I safely remove the stud, break the nut and reinstall or is the stud actually supposed to be locking into something? Is that stud like an engine stud that just screws into a cavity? Can I remove the stud without something happening.. eg won't be able to get the stud back in for whatever reason.

 

Must have missed this earlier- same thing happened to me when I put my rear diff inserts in. The nut isn't seized, it's a deformed-thread locknut, so unless you have a pair of the correct size hex nuts you can twist together, you're probably not going to get the nut off the stud. I just pulled the stud all the way out, put a little dab of red Loctite on the end of it, and spun it back in tight.

Brendan came over today, which I'm truly grateful for his help, and we started up my car today problem wasn't as scary as I was thinking. Of course I was being overly nervous but he heard and found the problem quick. Basically my clamps from the charge pipe pushed back into the timing cover when I had my accident. That caused a small bolt to break off inside and it was rattling around in there. Need to do a few other things to make sure she's ready to go again.

Man it was nice to hear it run again though. Very grateful it wasn't worse.

Now I need to buy a fmic and let her rip!

Stu that's great news!

Glad to hear it's not something that put glitter in the oil! I'd take a good look at all of the pulleys under that timing cover, though- I'd imagine that if that bolt went between the belt and a pulley, you'd probably have a real problem on your hands, but it couldn't hurt to look.

Oh ya, we got that all apart. Looks a-ok, might put on a new timing belt just because.

Glad to help S2. Gotta say it was great to hear it run and to see two 2010's both in such close proximity. We will,have it going in no time.

Huge thanks