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What did you do to your 4th gen. Legacy today? Vol - 10


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I've been thinking of replacing the strip at the bottom of the windows, on the outside. They just seem old and worn and don't always sit against the windows. They look super easy to replace though, and i think only cost 30 each

I've done that too. I does require removal of the door panel (easy) but the window does need to be moved down in order to get to a screw a the trailing edge of the door.

Wagon is LIFE! - 265,000 miles and climbing

Unofficial Build (Restoration) Thread

Steering Rack Rebuild

 

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I've done that too. I does require removal of the door panel (easy) but the window does need to be moved down in order to get to a screw a the trailing edge of the door.

 

 

I did the both of those on the rear doors over 10 years ago. I did a DIY here for it. I should do the front doors as they are both flaking off.

 

May next year...but then again the car is pretty old...

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Yesterday I committed to going EWG while the car is at TiC after the minor minor maintenance and them diagnosing/fixing an odd issue.

 

Which unfortunately means it will be another 3 weeks before I get my car back.

 

The fact the KillerB will not sell you an EWG up pipe by itself and insists that you send your manifold and up pipe to them in order to be modified is infuriating.

 

This trip to the shop has gotten stupid expensive really quickly.

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Started the engine swap this evening after getting the spec b towed to my friends factory/warehouse. I could drive in and it's heated, oh and there are a couple hoists I can use, maybe even the 12.5 ton crane. This eve I pulled the hood/prop, removed undertray, removed rad assy, and started unbolting the transmisson. Funny, I forgot most of my tools this morning, so I cut the evening early but I'd rather start it fully with a good sleep rather than do it all after work.

Here's to a busy and hopefully not too frustrating weekend!

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08 Spec B, insta: @08_spec_b, 10 SH Forester insta: @shfozzy
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Last chance for free stuff:

 

Full tan interior has GOT TO GO! Free to good home! Great condition (52k miles)! No funny smells! Hot chicks sat in it! It makes you better looking and adds two inches! Save this interior from an eternity in the town dump!

 

I really don’t want to trash this stuff but it’s too bulky to easily store and I have no plans to ever go back to tan. U haul or pay shipping and it’s yours. Willing to separate anything you want.

"Striving to better, oft we mar what's well." - Bill Shakespeare - car modder
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Not sure. I end up just unbolting the manifold, scooting it sideways, getting the inlet on, and then torquing the manifold down again. I'm just at a loss as to why the turbo wouldn't be lined up just like the OE one, given that BNR had compressor/turbine housings made.
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Sunday I replaced my rust bucket Colorado truck with something that will actually haul the LGT around if/when needed.

 

Fairly pleased with the purchase so far. Hard to tell in that light but the truck is actually green.

 

 

 

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Same thing happened to me when I bought my first truck. Good thing my LGT was already 'finished'. My wagon is on the 'maintenance only' plan until death do us part as a result.

 

I did actually drive my wagon for the first time in over 2 months. My 6 year old Farm and Fleet battery is still kicking, after 60+ days without running the lgt fired right up. Promptly put the snow tires on, changed the oil, fluid filmed a whole bunch of seams and pieces and proceeded to put a good 500 miles on it last weekend. Car still runs amazing.

 

She's showing her age with rattles and some very minor rust on the passenger dog leg, but shes still a keeper. The car is at a point (15 years old, 175k) where I don't mind taking a grinder to it to buzz off the rust but that will have to wait until spring.

Edited by Holla
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Getting my wagon back today with a new turbo and less leaking oil!

 

Gonna move snow tires from wagon to specB and wash/wax both soon. Wagon's no show car at 15yrs old and 191k miles, but no more winter duty. Garaged and safe from salt as much as possible.

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Emptied my oil catch can. Maybe 2 oz of fluid. Not bad for 6 months. Filled up one last tank of e85 before it gets too cold. Maybe 1 more, just maybe. 137k miles on the clock. Tuned on stock block since 19k. Shes still healthy!

 

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

Follow me on IG @chefodiycarguy

and @chefo.soriano

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Yesterday, dropped the wagon off at the trusted mechanic. Gave them a note telling them about the intermittent steering wheel shimmy. How I think I can feel the left front axle (aftermarket, w/110,000miles) vibrate sometimes, there is a clunk in the right front over broken pavement.

 

Also gave them a Timken front hub and a Moog ball joint.

 

Got a call today, axle is bad, left front hub is bad, right ball joint is bad. They will replace a couple bushing in the LCA's too while they are there.

 

Car will be ready for another Winter of going to VT every weekend.

 

It will have 283,000 mile by next Monday. Skiing starts this weekend.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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I was just out on a CL run to grab steel wheels for my fiance's VW jetta sportwagon for her winter set up and the money light came on in the GT...another evap code. Time to ignore the issue by reflashing the ECU with that code turned off. I plan to fix the issue eventually but for now it causes no running issues and no leaking gas / no obvious signs under the car of major issue. Car ticked over 242k

 

I am hoping to get through this winter without driving my GT in the salt. It has done that duty and I can't stand to see that kind of suffering.

Edited by jaylew

Wagon is LIFE! - 265,000 miles and climbing

Unofficial Build (Restoration) Thread

Steering Rack Rebuild

 

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I was just out on a CL run to grab steel wheels for my fiance's VW jetta sportwagon for her winter set up and the money light came on in the GT...another evap code. Time to ignore the issue by reflashing the ECU with that code turned off. I plan to fix the issue eventually but for now it causes no running issues and no leaking gas / no obvious signs under the car of major issue. Car ticked over 242k

 

I am hoping to get through this winter without driving my GT in the salt. It has done that duty and I can't stand to see that kind of suffering.

 

 

Did you replace the gas tank with all the work you did on your car? I had a similar issue, ended up needing a new gas tank.

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I've spent the last month or so troubleshooting various things while trying to get the car ready to tune, on and off a little bit at a time when I could. Probably annoying Cryo to no end by saying it's ready only to realize something else needs attention and backpedaling.

 

Last thing I've been dealing with were high fuel trims, and I went through most of an exhaustive troubleshooting list. Only thing I had left alone was the front O2 sensor, since it generally agreed with the wideband, on average. Ran out of ideas on what to troubleshoot, was about to start pressure testing individual vacuum joints instead of the entire system at once to see if I could detect some minute leaks. Then, on my way home tonight the front O2 sensor failed. I half want to throw this car in the dumpster, and am half excited that this might be the last piece of the puzzle. Maybe this is what build threads are for.

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I was just out on a CL run to grab steel wheels for my fiance's VW jetta sportwagon for her winter set up and the money light came on in the GT...another evap code. Time to ignore the issue by reflashing the ECU with that code turned off. I plan to fix the issue eventually but for now it causes no running issues and no leaking gas / no obvious signs under the car of major issue. Car ticked over 242k

 

I am hoping to get through this winter without driving my GT in the salt. It has done that duty and I can't stand to see that kind of suffering.

 

I so so so recommend getting or building a smoke tester. I had been using one I've rigged up recently, but spent the cash on one with a built in smoke generator and compressor recently. Best $200 I've ever spent, runs off of the car's battery so no need to be tied to an air compressor and wall outlet like my DIY rig. All I think you'd have to do is pop the evap line at the engine, and blow smoke into either end to see if you're venting anywhere.

Edited by awfulwaffle
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