08legacygtturbo Posted June 3, 2020 Share Posted June 3, 2020 Don't be so sure that racing oil is a good idea for the street. Many racing oils have little or no detergent because they expect engines to be torn down after a few races (sometimes every race) to check all the clearances and while it is torn down, clean out all the oil passages. I have heard of drag racers using aircraft oil that contains no detergent but has a huge load of anti-foaming additive. Additives detract from film strength and film strength is the most important spec for a racing oil. For a street engine, this would be a disaster. Your right in most cases you don't want to use a dedicated race oil for regular street use due to most if not all have long a significantly lower amount of certain additives to sure a specific purpose like I said I have not used it since they re labeled it as a racing oil and if could very well be that what I was using was a different component make up that of what they have listed currently non the less my car runs great never had a problem with the engine I used the eneos for about 36,000-40,000 I purchased the legacy in 2013 with 67,xxx miles on it and am just about at 201,000 miles now and I drive my car hard I go on 1200+ mile road trips multiple times a year I am on Cobb stage 2 tune with a Cobb high flow down pipe Tomei MX7960f stock location turbo after running a vf52 for 3.5 years and a few other goodies Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
08legacygtturbo Posted June 3, 2020 Share Posted June 3, 2020 While on the subject.... How much oil were you topping off between changes? Currently I have to top off around 1/4 to 1/2 a quart between oil changes. I'm debating if I should start seriously considering running an AOS. I was gettin a lot of oil sucked into the intake through the pvc line the turbo inlet intake was always wet with oil and was always pooling up tight before the throttle body and when I would get one the highway and get up to about 20-23 psi it would suck it in and sputter and stumble and got worse the more boost I ran obviously so that's why I forked out the money for the aos if not for that I would not have gone for it so far my car is running much smoother and have not had any more smoke or stumbling while on boost getting in the highway or just having fun if you don't have a problem with excessive oil consumption I would get another part or parts if your just wanting to get something for your car also I'm currently building a engine and going to be shooting for 600-650whp but over building it to eventually get up to 800whp Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supernyamo Posted June 3, 2020 Share Posted June 3, 2020 (edited) Today I scheduled an advanced inspection for my new purchase of an 07LGT with 6star motorsports Edit: I have to stay away from the marketplace here oh geeze so many nice things Edited June 3, 2020 by Supernyamo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted June 3, 2020 Share Posted June 3, 2020 I got rebuked on NASIOC for daring to suggest that typical street cars shouldn't have enough blowby to warrant an AOS Anyone with any REAL knowledge abandoned nastycock years ago. Nothing but trolls and ignorant 16yr olds looking to start sh#t left. Pay no attention to them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted June 3, 2020 Share Posted June 3, 2020 (edited) For reference, here is a pic of the engine bay of THE street driven Subie I built and maintained that NEEDED an AOS. At full boost it would DUMP oil all over the underside of the car. Engine made north of 600whp on my Mustang AWD dyno at 35psi. Tuned by Steve (former owner of 7L, who I worked with directly on this build). It took months just to get the fuel delivery sorted and right for this much boost. Major vaporization (vapor lock) issues as the engine bay heated up. Oil pressure north of 120psi on boost. Oh, and in this pic the build is not even complete. We had to ditch the AEM regulator for an aeromotive, changed fuel rails, lines, routing, added a pooh ton of heat coverings and more. Not sure I have pix of the finished project anymore. Will try to look. Car had over $50k invested in the full build (chassis, brakes, suspension, etc). Customer had two STis and this was the "big" one. Other looked identical from outside so as to confuse the masses. Edited June 3, 2020 by m sprank Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted June 3, 2020 Share Posted June 3, 2020 On the way to work this morning I watched the odometer and trip meter show 229.2 292292.9 miles in the wagon. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NORULZleggy Posted June 4, 2020 Share Posted June 4, 2020 Today I scheduled an advanced inspection for my new purchase of an 07LGT with 6star motorsports Edit: I have to stay away from the marketplace here oh geeze so many nice things 6 star is a great place. Good to see people doing it right when they buy these cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubOperator Posted June 4, 2020 Share Posted June 4, 2020 Well the gas smell from the rear passenger side is getting stronger. I hope it's the pipe and not the tank. Only happens after some spirited driving and turning which is, by definition, what this car wants to do. 2005 LGT Wagon Limited 6 MT RBP Stage 2 - 248K 2007 B9 Tribeca Limited DGM - 258K SOLD - 2005 OB Limited 5 MT Silver - 245K SOLD - 2010 OB 6 MT Silver - 205K Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supernyamo Posted June 4, 2020 Share Posted June 4, 2020 6 star is a great place. Good to see people doing it right when they buy these cars. In the end I decided to go with a full inspection with P&L Motorsports instead just due to scheduling conflicts hopefully they're still good, I also heard good things about them. I wanna do this car right! Unlike my Honda insight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bergs Posted June 4, 2020 Share Posted June 4, 2020 Update on my car since the suspension install: It's in alignment hell at the moment. My good friends at Granite Subaru have requested approval to replace the rear toe hardware and I certainly did not say no. It will add to the expense I'm trying to avoid but then again "if you can't afford to do it right, how can you afford to do it over?" They are taking very good care of me as they normally do but then it kinda hit me that the only place I trust for things like this is a dealership that's nearly an hour from my house! Well the gas smell from the rear passenger side is getting stronger. I hope it's the pipe and not the tank. Only happens after some spirited driving and turning which is, by definition, what this car wants to do. Be sure to consider checking the flange on the fuel pump housing for cracks as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
awfulwaffle Posted June 4, 2020 Share Posted June 4, 2020 I went through that with my current wagon, and ended up not being able to do enough with the rear toe bolts. KTA124 arms ended up being the way to go. Nice to have camber adjustment in the back too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gabo Posted June 5, 2020 Share Posted June 5, 2020 Unrelated to the Spec B, but..... Went and got my wife a 2020 Palisade. Very very nice SUV for the money in my opinion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lilredwagon Posted June 5, 2020 Share Posted June 5, 2020 Sweet! The Palisade has been eating the Explorer's lunch since it's been out. Actually, all of the new Hyundais are looking really nice these days. Congrats! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dishwasher Posted June 5, 2020 Share Posted June 5, 2020 (edited) Car is running like crap and I have a DAM of 0. Hoping it’s bad gas, not holding my breath. No vac leaks. Af learning is around 2. Does bad gas cause something that severe? Edited June 5, 2020 by Dishwasher Brought to you by Pfizer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tocinoman25 Posted June 6, 2020 Share Posted June 6, 2020 Ordered 20216FA000 BOSS TRANSVERSE LINK No wonder my driver side ball joint kept deteriorating so quickly. Here I thought it was the Mevotechs. Also ordered TL rear sway bar for the DD 2007 Accord to balance the steering trying to debate on selling the 2017 16" honda civic wheels or sell/keep 2017 17" accord wheels lol. Oops wrong, forums hahaha jk. 17" paired with michelins are the keeper. Those Primacys are the best tires Ive ever owned. Speaking of tires here is a pic of the Continentals Control Contact Sport SRS 235/45/17 purchased last week Follow me on IG @chefodiycarguy and @chefo.soriano Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
awfulwaffle Posted June 6, 2020 Share Posted June 6, 2020 Car is running like crap and I have a DAM of 0. Hoping it’s bad gas, not holding my breath. No vac leaks. Af learning is around 2. Does bad gas cause something that severe? I can't imagine how bad the gas would have to be, but I suppose it's possible. I don't suppose there's a chance that you've recently flashed a map and left the test mode connector plugged in? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dishwasher Posted June 6, 2020 Share Posted June 6, 2020 (edited) Nope. Stage 2 w/ ebcs tuned by TA. Tune is about a year old. I’ll take a datalog tomorrow and make a thread I guess. Edited June 6, 2020 by Dishwasher Brought to you by Pfizer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoozeRS05 Posted June 6, 2020 Share Posted June 6, 2020 Speaking of wrong forums. Picked up my used Forester yesterday, sent an order for Mann Engineering lowering springs, and got a STi rear sway bar today. So it begins. EB's Subaru journal - 2005 LegacyGT Wagon & 2014 Forester FB25 (2008 specB - RIP) IG@legacygtliving Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lilredwagon Posted June 6, 2020 Share Posted June 6, 2020 Car is running like crap and I have a DAM of 0. Hoping it’s bad gas, not holding my breath. No vac leaks. Af learning is around 2. Does bad gas cause something that severe? I'm assuming no CEL? If it just started doing it, I'd monitor all of the sensors. If it gradually started doing it, I'd look at a part wearing out. Since the DAM is dropping, then it's seeing knock for some reason. Either it's running lean all of a sudden (fuel related - fuel pump, fuel filter, injector), or it THINKS it's running lean (knock sensor, front O2 sensor). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
solidxsnake Posted June 6, 2020 Share Posted June 6, 2020 (edited) I'm assuming no CEL? If it just started doing it, I'd monitor all of the sensors. If it gradually started doing it, I'd look at a part wearing out. Since the DAM is dropping, then it's seeing knock for some reason. Either it's running lean all of a sudden (fuel related - fuel pump, fuel filter, injector), or it THINKS it's running lean (knock sensor, front O2 sensor). I'd lump O2 sensor with running lean, not "thinks" it's running lean. The ECU doesn't care about AFR when pulling DAM, the only thing that will trigger DAM changes is the knock sensor. You can tell pretty quickly by monitoring your fueling (ideally with a wideband as well as the front O2 sensor), along with your feedback knock, fine-learn knock and DAM and AF correction/learning, after an ECU reset. Do some light driving (no pulls, staying mostly in closed-loop fueling) and see if you're getting feedback knock consistently. Keep an eye on your AF correction and learning values while in closed-loop, and make sure they're reasonable. On-topic: Torch made quick work of removing the old outer tie-rod from the LH side inner tie-rod on the junkyard '16 STi rack. I cut some threads off of the LH inner tie rod, but was getting lazy when I moved over to the RH side and realized I didn't need to cut the threads at all anyway, since the Whiteline outer tie rod is deeply threaded enough to bottom out on the jam nut when its fully threaded onto the inner tie-rod. Eyeballed the toe settings by marking distance from edge of inner tie-rod boot to back of jam nut for each side (assuming that the boot edge is in the same location for the original rack and the STi rack). Also think I have the U-joint clocked about right now, close enough that an alignment will fix everything for me eventually. It was real hot today, so I called it a day after re-mounting the crossmember plate. Still need to wire up my new WBO2 to the rear O2 sensor connector, and run the cockpit control cable add-on for my Hallman MBC through the firewall, then I'll be ready to start assembling the longblock! Edited June 6, 2020 by solidxsnake Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dishwasher Posted June 6, 2020 Share Posted June 6, 2020 Added a can of sea foam, noticed some improvement. Drove around on light load for about 50 miles then topped up with some Shell 93. DAM is back to 1.0 and it’s running fine. Chalking this up to a bad tank of gas. Brought to you by Pfizer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RckyMtnGT Posted June 7, 2020 Share Posted June 7, 2020 Wow i've been away a long time..everything looks different here! Haven't changed a whole lot, but did get my Stoptech kit installed. Tried a set of Wilwoods a few months ago, and it never worked right. Never did figure out why they failed so bad, but the Stoptechs have been flawless so far. Have yet to get on the track with them, but they work great on the daily commute They legit do feel much better than the stock brakes - more immediate without being touchy, and balance still feels essentially stock. Track test soon. Redid my alignment now that my shop got a real alignment machine. Took some pics cuz she was shiny Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supernyamo Posted June 7, 2020 Share Posted June 7, 2020 Woah. Goals. Amazing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
solidxsnake Posted June 7, 2020 Share Posted June 7, 2020 (edited) Woah. Goals. Amazing. For real. It's almost twinsies with my spec.B, except in much better exterior condition. DGM is a wonderful color! Edit to avoid double-posting: Much more reasonable temperature today. Got the steering rack related odds-and-ends tied up(end-links loosely attached, wheels back on the car, everything else torqued, etc). Ran the MBC cable through the firewall and mounted the adjustment knob in the cabin. Snipped the rear O2 sensor wires, need to do some reading to make sure I get the wiring for the wideband correct. Started to clean and get the pickup/windage tray and oil pan installed, but found that the pan-to-block gasket is in bad shape, so that had to halt until I can get to a dealer to get a new gasket. Snapped some shiny new SB pr0n though: http://i.imgur.com/Kd71JURl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/ebzcD3Wl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/jlJJRKLl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/RvHLWkSl.jpg Edited June 7, 2020 by solidxsnake Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubOperator Posted June 8, 2020 Share Posted June 8, 2020 Sexy ^^^ !!!! 2005 LGT Wagon Limited 6 MT RBP Stage 2 - 248K 2007 B9 Tribeca Limited DGM - 258K SOLD - 2005 OB Limited 5 MT Silver - 245K SOLD - 2010 OB 6 MT Silver - 205K Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now