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^ maybe you should check youtube for torque converter function,

 

the lock and unlock of torque converter is controlled by the computer.

 

the lock up improves power throughput and efficiency making the automatic as efficient as a manual.

 

you could install a toggle switch to control the lockup but the computer will not be happy about it.

 

How does one install such a switch to control the TC lockup?

I may need to do it in my setup, for long HW trips where my TC seems to be unhappy not being able to hold lock/unlock

 

Thanks

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  • 2 weeks later...
So my current issue is with reversing. i have to parallel into spots on hills (SF hills) and when i reverse i hold onto the brake and reverse at the same time so i wont roll forward after reversing for a bit the car wont even rev so i cant reverse. when i hit the throttle no response. i had to turn the car off and turn it back on for it to reverse again and have it happen again. i drove a newer forester that had the same issue. is it a feature for the car? i didnt have this issue on my 06 lgt and i just got an 09 lgt an answer would help. thank you
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So my current issue is with reversing. i have to parallel into spots on hills (SF hills) and when i reverse i hold onto the brake and reverse at the same time so i wont roll forward after reversing for a bit the car wont even rev so i cant reverse. when i hit the throttle no response. i had to turn the car off and turn it back on for it to reverse again and have it happen again. i drove a newer forester that had the same issue. is it a feature for the car? i didnt have this issue on my 06 lgt and i just got an 09 lgt an answer would help. thank you

 

Can you elaborate on "it won't rev"?

Does it feel like the gas pedal is limp and disconnected when your left foot is also on the brake? What happens when you give it a lot more gas?

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Has anyone experienced in really cold weather that the car won't shift into 5th? I was headed to school this morning and car's temp was slightly below typical temp, yet the blue light had already gone away. However I was getting on the highway and switched to manual mode as I typically do and was able to change from 3rd to 4th, however even after reaching 65mph it did not indicate I was going fast enough to shift. Usually the car will shift into 5th as soon as it can…

On the cluster where it displays what gear I'm in [4] there is an ^ arrow above the # to mean it's able to shift to 5th. Yet it didn't show it until about 5 minutes of driving on the highway. Would this have anything to do with having a Tranny cooler and the fluid not being warm enough to shift to 5th? Would adding a thermostat to the tranny cooler system solve this issue, or is it completely unrelated?

Edited by argyle409
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Has anyone experienced in really cold weather that the car won't shift into 5th? I was headed to school this morning and car's temp was slightly below typical temp, yet the blue light had already gone away. However I was getting on the highway and switched to manual mode as I typically do and was able to change from 3rd to 4th, however even after reaching 65mph it did not indicate I was going fast enough to shift. Usually the car will shift into 5th as soon as it can…

On the cluster where it displays what gear I'm in [4] there is an ^ arrow above the # to mean it's able to shift to 5th. Yet it didn't show it until about 5 minutes of driving on the highway. Would this have anything to do with having a Tranny cooler and the fluid not being warm enough to shift to 5th? Would adding a thermostat to the tranny cooler system solve this issue, or is it completely unrelated?

 

Your intuition is correct. The TCU prevents the shift from 4th to 5th until the ATF reaches a certain temperature. So either it's not warm enough 'yet', or it's not able to get warm enough in your conditions. Highways are excellent for cooling fluid. Probably wouldn't be a problem at low speed city driving.

 

I got some pushback a while ago for warning people of over-cooling of the ATF (my caution was based solely on real-world feedback such as yours).

The solution then and now is an external bypass thermostat, or another change to your cooling circuit (some people block or unloop aftermarket ATF coolers during the winter). Changing the flow order can also help.

 

What is your ATF cooling setup?

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Your intuition is correct. The TCU prevents the shift from 4th to 5th until the ATF reaches a certain temperature. So either it's not warm enough 'yet', or it's not able to get warm enough in your conditions. Highways are excellent for cooling fluid. Probably wouldn't be a problem at low speed city driving.

 

I got some pushback a while ago for warning people of over-cooling of the ATF (my caution was based solely on real-world feedback such as yours).

The solution then and now is an external bypass thermostat, or another change to your cooling circuit (some people block or unloop aftermarket ATF coolers during the winter). Changing the flow order can also help.

 

What is your ATF cooling setup?

:) Pushback on real world logic not approved. Nice to see you posting again man.

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Over cooling isnt bad normally , but the tcu wants the trans to be in a certain temp range , if the tcu was cracked and modified or with aftermarket tcu, the happy temperature range would be much larger.

 

I have provided data logs of runs the same evening with only the cooling fans forced to high speed and everything else stock made the car slower as the tcc was inhibited down the 1/4 mile as the tcu was trying to warm the trans up! . The engine coolant temp was constant as the engine thermostat took care of that. But the bottom of the rad where the trans cooler is cooled off big time!

Now that's thinking out of the boxer!:lol:

fyi all 05 + legacy's have built in code reader

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Can you elaborate on "it won't rev"?

Does it feel like the gas pedal is limp and disconnected when your left foot is also on the brake? What happens when you give it a lot more gas?

 

not it does not it feels normal. When i give it more gas it would not even rev up. but when i put it in park it does. very weird almost as if it was a safety feature to prevent you from riding on your brakes while reversing.

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So my current issue is with reversing. i have to parallel into spots on hills (SF hills) and when i reverse i hold onto the brake and reverse at the same time so i wont roll forward after reversing for a bit the car wont even rev so i cant reverse. when i hit the throttle no response. i had to turn the car off and turn it back on for it to reverse again and have it happen again. i drove a newer forester that had the same issue. is it a feature for the car? i didnt have this issue on my 06 lgt and i just got an 09 lgt an answer would help. thank you

 

i've experienced this on occasion with very high loads trying to go in reverse (not with the brake pedal pressed). In your case, since you're on a hill, it's a high load trying to reverse. I think I was able to get it to give by rolling forward a little bit and trying again.

 

It's almost like it's too much load that the car won't even allow the engine to increase RPM when you apply the gas. It doesn't sputter like it's being flooded, either. The gas pedal just goes down and the car doesn't respond.

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Your intuition is correct. The TCU prevents the shift from 4th to 5th until the ATF reaches a certain temperature. So either it's not warm enough 'yet', or it's not able to get warm enough in your conditions. Highways are excellent for cooling fluid. Probably wouldn't be a problem at low speed city driving.

 

I got some pushback a while ago for warning people of over-cooling of the ATF (my caution was based solely on real-world feedback such as yours).

The solution then and now is an external bypass thermostat, or another change to your cooling circuit (some people block or unloop aftermarket ATF coolers during the winter). Changing the flow order can also help.

 

What is your ATF cooling setup?

 

Interesting. I was driving home from NY Sunday night in the single digits (down to zero at one point) and I noticed that I started to get a weird shudder in the vehicle cruising in 5th gear between 75 and 80mph. If I gave it some more gas to up the RPM the shudder would go away, and if I let off the gas the shudder would go away. Also, if I held the speed constant in the shudder range but downshifted to 4th, the shudder would go away (this was to eliminate a tire balancing or alignment issue).

 

It was almost like the TC was having some issues at that RPM. I need to try again with warmer temperatures to see if the zero degrees F was the cause. Once I got closer to Boston the temps were coming up and the TC issue wasn't really happening as frequently. It was very odd.

 

I removed my external trans cooler when I had my engine rebuilt in June 2014 (and also added the HexMods VB). It's just the stock cooling setup now.

 

I hope it's not a sign of the TC having problems or 5th gear on the way out...

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I dont ever remember my car not going into 5th gear when cold, i just remember the tcc not engaging , this helps warm the transmission up. When the tcc engages the rpms drop and would seem like a gear change.

Now that's thinking out of the boxer!:lol:

fyi all 05 + legacy's have built in code reader

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not it does not it feels normal. When i give it more gas it would not even rev up. but when i put it in park it does. very weird almost as if it was a safety feature to prevent you from riding on your brakes while reversing.

 

This sounds like the "ok to send power" signal from tcu.

 

For instance if you put it in drive while giving throttle the enggine will continue ideling. Untill the trans is fully in gear.

 

You have have either a selector switch issue ( the tcu may not see the shifter is fully in reverse, or one of the pressure sensors is having an issue.

Now that's thinking out of the boxer!:lol:

fyi all 05 + legacy's have built in code reader

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Your intuition is correct. The TCU prevents the shift from 4th to 5th until the ATF reaches a certain temperature. So either it's not warm enough 'yet', or it's not able to get warm enough in your conditions. Highways are excellent for cooling fluid. Probably wouldn't be a problem at low speed city driving.

 

I got some pushback a while ago for warning people of over-cooling of the ATF (my caution was based solely on real-world feedback such as yours).

The solution then and now is an external bypass thermostat, or another change to your cooling circuit (some people block or unloop aftermarket ATF coolers during the winter). Changing the flow order can also help.

 

What is your ATF cooling setup?

 

I honestly forget what transmission cooler I have, I want to say it's a Derale 11 x 7-1/4 x 7/8". I followed this install DIY I recently was told I could add an external thermostat, which would pretty much only open to the cooler once the fluid was a certain temp I believe like 107 I was told? While I also read there is another way to do it, where you replace the 5eat drain plug with one that senses the temperature and then opens a valve once it's at temp. I would rather just install something and not have to deal with taking it off each winter, as it doesn't get that cold that often here in CT.

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Hey Frank, didn't you figure out how to wire up a switch to lock the converter?

 

Yes it can be done , however the sport light will flash and many trans functions will be disabled.

 

Only way of doing so would make the car think its manual and then use a stand alone tcu or even just a set of switches to control the trans

Now that's thinking out of the boxer!:lol:

fyi all 05 + legacy's have built in code reader

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You recall right, it was much much happier sticking in lock-up mode almost the entire time.

This goes well beyond my knowledge so I don't know whether or not being in open loop the entire time is bad for the car. I know it's not ideal for the environment since closed loop is basically a strategy to handle pollution better?

I honestly don't remember why I did not keep closed loop disabled, I was doing it as a way to troubleshoot something else that was acting weird (oscillating cruise control).

Edited by fishbone
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