Clutch problems

I have searched for this answer and got nowhere and I will explain after my question.

 

Before replacing the clutch, the pedal had a huge neutral area before it would disengage the clutch. I wrote it off to the bad disc. After replacing it, I found it is still just as bad and now the pedal doesn't return to normal, it sticks at 50% down and have to pull it with my foot to make it return. I can also move the fork by hand to stock position and the pedal fully retracts to stock. This does not affect the operation of the clutch from engage/disengage standpoint. Everywhere I look, it says the same thing, clutch slave cylinder. However, I do not have such a thing on the car. I have a cable driven clutch and there is a second cable which leads into a valve mechanism downstream to the master cylinder, which I recently discovered is the hill assist brake. The clutch pedal, when in the stock position, feels like nothing for the first 50%, then its all business. I have adjusted the cable, readjusted, looked at the FSM, then adjusted it again. The first 50% feels like nothing. Everything from the clutch fork down is brand new. Would replacing the cable be the way to go? I'm so confused right now with this part.

Hello;

Sounds to me that the clutch cable needs to be replaced! They get old, some of the wires start breaking and stretch. Every time when the oil is changed, the protective boot is pulled back at the adjustment point and a few drops of oil are allowed to dribble into the housing to keep the cable lubed. Hope this helps, Steven.

Thanks, I'll start there and replace the cable

Alittle story of my first subi clutch. It felt like It wasn't disengaging until my foot was close to the floor. I tired driving it to the shop which i worked at to ask my master tech, which I also bought the car from. about 5-6 miles deep my brakes locked up. hill assist. Its your cable son. For me I Just had to tighten it. At least try tightening that cable to max before replacing.

Yep, my brakes stick too at times. I'm disabling the hill assist anyhow.

They stick because before I looked at the FSM, I thought the hill assist was a hydraulic return valve and cranked the adjustment to the max. Couldn't figure out why all of a sudden my brakes were locking up, until I disconnected that second cable. I have adjusted the clutch cable to max and minimum and everything in between. I believe what snederhiser says and I'm gonna start and replace that cable.

I wonder if adding a bunch of washers to the cable would give you that extra room? Nvm i'm a professional jerry rigger. Replace it