Crunched Control Arm

Hi all,

 

Update to my previous post "2000 Strut, tie rod, control arm replacement" regarding control arm replacement. After considering valuable input from doublechaz, then pulling the wheel and getting a better look my control arm is crunched. I watched a bunch of YouTube videos, bought some tools and took the plunge. The bent control arm pushed the wheel back, pushed the tie rod into the sway bar and shifted some other things that made removing these parts difficult, but with some elbow grease and help from Pipi the cat, I'm making progress. I decided to replace the inner and outer tie rods, the ball joint and control arm. I'm not convinced the tie rods are bent after removing them, but I'll compare them to the new ones, which should arrive in a few days. This is a fun project so far, mostly because I've been successful and feel supported by fellow Subaru lovers. Thank you all the the support!

Edited March 18, 2020 by Candy

The ball joint and tie rod replacement isn't only about being bent, it's about the damage that may be hidden in the ball and socket parts. When you are doing your own work the parts cost of doing them while you are in there is pretty minimal compared to getting back in there again in 5000 miles when they fail. Labor and stress once, and being able to trust the car because you know the repairs are the best they can be.

 

That's a pretty strange bend on the control arm. Did you say they drove it over a curb?

 

Anyway, the way the axis of the control arm rear mount is out of line with the axis of the rear mount bushing you should probably replace that if you can. It is pretty expensive, though. Also, it is pretty trivial to replace just that part with the three fasteners, so you could opt to watch it and only do it later if needed.

 

When I was getting started into cars I felt like taking a control arm off was a pretty big milestone compared to parts swapping hoses, alternators, shocks, stuff like that. You got this, and it will feel good to have completed a bigger repair.

 

Be sure to get us a shot of that wheel centered in the arch when you're done.

Edited March 18, 2020 by doublechaz

lucky you don't get rust. Those ball joints are a PIA around here. That bushing in the back is hydraulic so best get a arm with one on it or buy the whiteline kit for 120$ changes it to poly. You can also buy the energysuspesnion bushing kit for 85$ if you find a good used arm. Rockauto has them for a decent price. Edited March 20, 2020 by RumbleRumble

Now that I know about it, I want the Whiteline rear bushings. I replaced every bit of my suspension about three years ago, except those two bushings since they passed inspection and I had replaced them about 10 years before. The rest (less ball joints and the tie rod from my damage was OE).

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Whiteline-Front-Standard-Control-Arm-Bushings-for-Subaru-Impreza-Legacy-Outback/273607072650?fits=Year%3A2001%7CModel%3ALegacy%7CSubmodel%3AGT+Limited%7CEngine+-+Liter_Display%3A2.5L%7CMake%3ASubaru&epid=253491083&hash=item3fb4409b8a:g:M2gAAOSwZupcENYa

 

 

looks like price has gone down

Since my last post we've had a dip in the temps and snow. There will be a break in the action. I did get new tie rods (inner and outer) and ball joints. And a new boot for the inner tie rod. The old boot was torn. Also the boot an the ball joint was torn. So after I get the passenger side squared away, i'll replace the ball joint on the driver's side. Thanks for all the input. I feel empowered!

Quick update, got every thing apart, now waiting for parts. They sent the wrong control arm. Waiting for the right one to come! Should be March 31. Edited April 2, 2020 by Candy
spelling

Oh and doublechaz, yes, the woman driving it walloped the curb. I am replacing the ball joints. It seems with that much damage (the control arm is almost bent in half) other stuff had to be bent too. I'm going to replace the tie rods and control arm on the drivers side as well.

I finally got the correct control arm and finished the job. I'll try to align it, I did my best to maintain the same length from the previous tie rod, which was also bent. I am posting completed photos and some a comparison shot of bent and "straight" control arms.

Looking much better, good job.

 

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