What did you do to your 4th gen. Legacy today? Vol - 10

Mulling a 2011 3.6 Outback for the family...

Looks pretty good other than having three continentals and one michelin...

Trying to figure out how long they have been that way and if their tread are similar if I can drive 400 miles home.

After 2 months of sticking my foot up subaru's ass for these rusty brake lines and junction, they agreed to pay 100% of the parts and labor. Victory is Mine! Also got my tuner to give me a Valet map so I can keep it on E85 with a 3600rpm limit. Hopefully they don't screw anything else up...

Ok ok I know this is just wishful thinking on my part, but I wonder if eventually subaru will cover this for everyone, maybe once more start to fail.. Maybe they're just waiting for more of these cars to get off the road so it'll cost them less.. Nah, probably not.

On topic, it's supposed to be 50F for the next week, but things are still getting chilly at night, so threw on my snow tires in case untreated roads are a little slick from rainwater freezing..

They won't, the only reason I got them to do it is because when they did the recall years ago they didn't spray the line by the gas tank at all. They agreed to pay for everything because you can't change the back line without destroying the rusted junction

Mine was not even leaking, yet....

Mulling a 2011 3.6 Outback for the family...

Looks pretty good other than having three continentals and one michelin...

Trying to figure out how long they have been that way and if their tread are similar if I can drive 400 miles home.

I would think you'd be fine if the tires are the same diameter. Just be careful on slippery pavement.

Are the tires the same (215/45-17's0 or whatever that car came with ?

I would think you'd be fine if the tires are the same diameter. Just be careful on slippery pavement.

 

Are the tires the same (215/45-17's0 or whatever that car came with ?

225/60 R17.

If I’m looking up the right tires, both of the types of Cont and Michelins on it are 27.6” in diameter

Hoping to look at it tomorrow to see tread depth.

If they are close, I’ll prob get it and get a new matched set when I get home mounted in my Prodrive P1s.

225/60 R17.

 

If I’m looking up the right tires, both of the types of Cont and Michelins on it are 27.6” in diameter

Hoping to look at it tomorrow to see tread depth.

If they are close, I’ll prob get it and get a new matched set when I get home mounted in my Prodrive P1s.

you can always use "math" to check. measure circumference, if its close, send it

you can always use "math" to check. measure circumference, if its close, send it

Nerd.

Nerd.

Geek

Whoa whoa whoa. It's Thanksgiving. Yall being way too nice.

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Swapped the GS LWCP for the Fluidampr yesterday. Modification to the timing cover was quick and easy. Today I'm going to clean up the engine a bit before putting the radiator back in with some new OEM hoses. The Mishimoto hoses have this powdery residue that I just cannot clean off - it almost looks like a porosity issue? The lower hose is especially bad. There was a similar residue on some of the other OEM coolant hoses, but those cleaned up with some hot soapy water and a magic eraser.

 

Going to swap out my Group.N crossmember bushings for new stock ones while I'm under there. Seems like they sent the NVH way up without a real discernible improvement.

 

Edit: fingers crossed for you awfulwaffle... that’s never fun.

Happens to all silicone hoses. Happens to OEM in warmer climates too. I blame porosity. Does not seem to effect performance, but i hated it and replaced hoses when it would no longer wipe off.

For Mishimoto rads you need to trim 1/2" off each end of the hose for clearance, due to the thicker core.

You will like the FD pulley. Worth the time and money.

Bore looks great, haven't popped the piston yet but given that I'd never seen a drop of oil in the intercooler until this time when it was completely drenched, I assume that as soon as I pull it out I'll get a chunk of bottom ring land in my hand. Need to check roundness before making the call, but it seems that the block may be OK. The other three cylinders were dead even in compression and all had 2-4% leakdown.

 

I'd been running E85 for about 15k, so it's not exactly a recent change. Oil was fine last interval, no obvious 'I'm full of fuel' smell, though I'm on a 1500 mile OCI on E85. When I made the switch, went to brand new ID1050X injectors too. That said..... you may have hit the nail on the head with an injector issue. #4 intake valves look like they were run hotter than any I've ever seen... Makes me wonder if that injector failed and leaned the cylinder out.

 

Head will go to the shop to get checked and all valves in that cylinder replaced, injectors will be going to ID for test. If one comes back bad, I wonder what ID might be willing to do given it almost nuked a 35k mile motor.

Could have been a intake manifold to tgv leak as well. Could have been an obstruction in the fuel rail prior to the injector, could be an electrical connection/signal issue. If no noticeable misfires, it could be a lot of things. Time and inspection will tell.

Happens to all silicone hoses. Happens to OEM in warmer climates too. I blame porosity. Does not seem to effect performance, but i hated it and replaced hoses when it would no longer wipe off.

 

For Mishimoto rads you need to trim 1/2" off each end of the hose for clearance, due to the thicker core.

 

You will like the FD pulley. Worth the time and money.

Can’t be too upset... Jeremy gave them to me for free with the radiator back in the day. I was just surprised because I’ve never seen silicone hoses get like that, but it’s good to hear it’s common. The car did sit for many months at a time, and would occasionally have a faint coolant smell after I’d take it back out.

1/2” off each end sounds about right. I used the old ones as a template but they probably could have used a bit more trimming.

Excited to drive it with the new pulley. Holding off on the crossmember bushings for now so I can isolate any changes.

Today I’m going to look at modifying the Cobb airbox to fit a bit better. My IATs seem a little high and I’d like to make it so the fresh air duct can come out without removing the lid from the airbox.

Could have been a intake manifold to tgv leak as well. Could have been an obstruction in the fuel rail prior to the injector, could be an electrical connection/signal issue. If no noticeable misfires, it could be a lot of things. Time and inspection will tell.

IM to TGV leak would cause a rich boost condition no? In any case, everything's getting a thorough inspection before it goes back together - rail obstruction is definitely on my list now, thanks. Same with wiring, though I signal checked each injector connector w/ an o-scope when I did the topfeed conversion. Then again, I did solder instead of crimping...

Picked up some nice used T gages from a retired machinist yesterday, bore is getting checked out before anything else. Probably should continue this saga in the kinda sorta build thread I started last time around.

black friday deals times 4 engines to reassemble equals hmm...doesn't look like a deal anymore.

Next time, I'll keep all the parts together instead of throwing them in a box.

Sun roof stuck open. Can hear motor clicking. Suggestions?

Update edit: It's now closed after a few ignition on off cycles. I could pull the shade closed, but the glass portion wasn't budging. Finally it did close with me pulling on the glass. I guess she's stuck that way for a while until I am able to execute a repair plan. Which might be March/April.

Ugh. I use that thing every time I go somewhere. Really going to miss it.

Started it for the first time in about 2 weeks. Took some pictures and this video https://youtu.be/vAzXYsptF4w. Any ideas on what it might be?

Exhaust leak? Or maybe that's like the lope awfulwaffle was hearing?

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Started it for the first time in about 2 weeks. Took some pictures and this video https://youtu.be/vAzXYsptF4w. Any ideas on what it might be?

Where does it sound like it's coming from, specifically? I assume it's dependent on engine speed. Does it sound to you like either of the below?

That is the little shield around the flywheel that bolts to the bottom of the block with two 10mm bolts. Mine got bent during motor remove/replace and was hitting the flywheel.

Brought my LGT back to my parents place, where it will be garaged for the winter. Going to miss driving it, but glad to have my Accord back in my garage now (though it's not like I'm driving much nowadays anyway).

Where does it sound like it's coming from, specifically? I assume it's dependent on engine speed. Does it sound to you like either of the below?

 

 

 

That is the little shield around the flywheel that bolts to the bottom of the block with two 10mm bolts. Mine got bent during motor remove/replace and was hitting the flywheel.

 

Brought my LGT back to my parents place, where it will be garaged for the winter. Going to miss driving it, but glad to have my Accord back in my garage now (though it's not like I'm driving much nowadays anyway).

It sounds like it's coming from the left side about halfway back. One shop said it sounds like valve/lifter issues. Other said they dropped the pan and found metal shavings and believed the rod bearing was done. Both shops quoted me around $500 to tear down and properly diagnose.

Most likely going to sell it because I just can't get in too deep right now.

Lol they didn't drop the pan unless they charged you a bunch. You're valves sound like mine and that doesn't really sound like rod knock to me unless you're just losing compression. Honestly mine sounds a lot like that when cold, I'm pretty sure I have an exhaust leak at the lower part of the up pipe.

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Getting the pan off of mine took me like an hour with a crow bar and that was out of the engine. I too had been told that but mine had very noticeable rod knock. Like playing the drums with a hammer under my hood.

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Well presumably the shops you took it to aren't terrible. A compression test isn't horribly complex (says the guy who's never done it.) or plug in something to check your learning values to check for knock.

Diagnoses of internet sounds is real difficult but if it gets louder when warm that sounds not good to me.

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IM to TGV leak would cause a rich boost condition no? In any case, everything's getting a thorough inspection before it goes back together - rail obstruction is definitely on my list now, thanks. Same with wiring, though I signal checked each injector connector w/ an o-scope when I did the topfeed conversion. Then again, I did solder instead of crimping...

Air would most likely escape (rich) on boost and when in vacuum could "suck" in air (lean). I had an 05 LGT wagon that burnt the intake valves on 4 from a small intake leak at around 120k miles. Wierd s%<t can happen. Just give all a good look before condemning anything. Sending the injectors for a cleaning, flow measurement/report and inspection should cost about $125 for 4 injectors.

One time I had a DW injector fail in a $15k race motor on the first lap. DW paid for the engine.

Once (another race car) I had a DW rail leak due to a DW known product issue. I was obviously unaware. Car-B-Q resulted. Luckily we we had practiced safety protocols and kept the damage to a few thousand. DW replaced the rails. I notified the wholesale distributor and the product was pulled.

Cant say how many hundreds if not thousands of sets of injectors I have dealt with. Surprisingly few failures.

Started it for the first time in about 2 weeks. Took some pictures and this video https://youtu.be/vAzXYsptF4w. Any ideas on what it might be?

It is sooooo friggin hard to tell sounds from phone vids. But, you can use a long screwdriver as a stethoscope and identify where it is coming from. No one dropped the pan, I call BS. If it is rod knock you dont need to drop the pan to tell. Rpm dependant, gets worse when transitioning from light throtlle light load to slight load, like going up a hill while maintaining speed. If that is knock, its loud and the engine is ready to blow. You would see "gold dust" in the oil if you just dropped it into a clean pan.