What did you do to your 4th gen. Legacy today? Vol - 10

Rock Auto has rebuilt and paint stripped front Brembos for $180 a caliper. I bought another set just because good deal. Not sure what color I’ll go with yet. I’ll have to strip and rebuild my spare rears along with them.

Do these need bracket adapters, and different rotors (04 STI rotors?) to work?

Do these need bracket adapters, and different rotors (04 STI rotors?) to work?

No adapter.

Need 04 sti rotor.

Rear:

Only specific year sti brembos work (04-06?).

Adapter needed.

Two ways for rear rotors.

1. 04 sti rotor with special parking brake shoes.

2. Specially made rotor you can use with oem parking brake shoes.

EJ20X in the wife's OBXT started for the first time, sounds good. Now, am I crazy or does the JDM ELH not have a bung for the front O2? Might as well add a spot on the downpipe we need to make, but seems super weird to me.

Haven't done much to it lately other than have a low oil scare. Time to finally fix what appears to be leakin AVCS cam gears. Have those on hand now, just need to order a timing kit for the second timing belt interval that has passed...

Replaced the broken drivers door light switch after over a year.

Might have to break down an order a drivers side headlight so she doesn't have a cataract in one eye. Sure would make the ole gal a little more attractive.

At least take a swing at polishing the headlight before buying another. You can get good results with the standard $20 3m kit at Walmart.

The other side has a brand new headlight due to repairs from getting hit last fall. Even when it is polished out, it's pretty obvious.

Spending a lot of time working on my Forester, which I'm pretty happy with so far. Just the other night my sunroof apparently didn't drain and water found its way into the key fob control module, so my keys don't work, but I like the car a good bit otherwise.. Lowering it as soon as my wagon is legal.

And still chugging along with parts for my wagon, might even finish up the rear Brembo conversion this weekend. Dreading the parking brake shoe install for some reason, probably bc I've never done it, and rust. Once that's done, just have to replace a ball joint and schedule inspection. Should have my wagon right where I want it, before it goes in the garage for winter.

Brake shoes aren't too bad at all. Hardest part is getting all the damn spring retainers back on while keeping everything in place

Finally got around to replacing the rear links with the toe bolts. Was able to get the nuts off but the bolts were seized to the bushings. Sawzall with 6" Diablo general purpose carbide blades made quick work of the Grade 8 bolts. New arms are in just in time for new tires and an alignment Saturday.

And still chugging along with parts for my wagon, might even finish up the rear Brembo conversion this weekend. Dreading the parking brake shoe install for some reason, probably bc I've never done it, and rust. Once that's done, just have to replace a ball joint and schedule inspection. Should have my wagon right where I want it, before it goes in the garage for winter.

Might I suggest spending the $30 on a rear drum brake tool set. It will save you a lot of headache.

Something like this https://www.amazon.com/Astro-7848-8-Piece-Professional-Tool/dp/B00061SGO0/ref=psdc_15707261_t1_B07GSJ3TT3

Oil change, topped off the power steering, cleaned all the yellow bits under the hood (except for the clutch cover), and some vacuuming out of the interior.

SC

Flushed the brake fluid in the Spec B yesterday. Ordered the Motive Power bleeder 0107 model. It has the cap that fit's our cars.

I added post in the various other threads about doing this.

That should be a last major thing to do before Winter gets here. Both cars are running well, in the next few weeks I'll clean the air filter and MAF sensor, make sure the battery terminals are clean and that should be it...

Took it for a spin today (and will again tomorrow). Think I found out the cause for my frequent but not super-concerning knock at medium load/throttle: car is running in closed loop and pulling a bunch of fuel (about 10%). Wideband shows 0.2-0.3 lambda leaner than target, but the stock O2 sensor matches it. When it switches between OL/CL, I think the huge jump in fueling is causing the knock. I think my plan is to play with the CL/OL transition point so it switches into OL earlier.

On another, more depressing note, trying to figure out the oil consumption. Motor has about 1400mi on it now. Haven't driven it much since the 300mi trip after I called the break-in done where it burned a quart, so the oil is still showing full. Pulled the PCV yesterday and gave it a good cleaning with some brake cleaner. It's still rattling, but it had a bunch of oil residue on the crankcase breather hose. Looking through my records, it looks like I never replaced it, just cleaned it about 18k miles ago. Will likely replace it.

More concerning, however, is the constant puffs of air and minor wisps of smoke from the oil filler neck while the car is idling. I haven't tested what happens when rev'ing the motor. I'm really hoping I didn't screw up the break-in so bad that the rings didn't seat.

Found some original Spec.B rims in great condition, wrapped them in Indy 500. Previous owner probably got run into and insuranced scrapped them. Got the Fast Attack wheels off that they put Champiro gt, what a difference!! But in one or two months the hakka 9’s are going on for the winter.

Side note: anybody here have a 20mm whiteline rsb on lgt or spec b? It seems to rub or slightly tap bottom of upper trailing arm on pass side. I put Moog endlinks to beef it up but I think they are too long. Anybody have this issue? I heard putting STI endlinks resolves length issue since they are shorter. Any input? Thanks

Rock Auto has rebuilt and paint stripped front Brembos for $180 a caliper. I bought another set just because good deal. Not sure what color I’ll go with yet. I’ll have to strip and rebuild my spare rears along with them.

 

What is part number or what did you include in your search?

Found some original Spec.B rims in great condition, wrapped them in Indy 500. Previous owner probably got run into and insuranced scrapped them. Got the Fast Attack wheels off that they put Champiro gt, what a difference!! But in one or two months the hakka 9’s are going on for the winter.

Side note: anybody here have a 20mm whiteline rsb on lgt or spec b? It seems to rub or slightly tap bottom of upper trailing arm on pass side. I put Moog endlinks to beef it up but I think they are too long. Anybody have this issue? I heard putting STI endlinks resolves length issue since they are shorter. Any input? Thanks

I have the 20mm Whiteline RSB and Moog end links on my wagon, no issues here. Are you sure it’s tapping the control arm? If the end links are even a little bit loose they will make a knocking noise. Try tightening the end links up again first. If they were hitting the control arm, I’d think you’d have bigger issues.

Well after much struggling, mistakes, and six trips for tools or parts. I got a lower mile lgt rack in with whiteline bushings to replace my outbacks leaking one. Whiteline 22mm front sway bar in. And cleaned 20k mi of crud build up from the leak.

Need an alignment and to get the rest of the air out of the lines. My vdc light is on though and I can't seem to find how to reset it. Can I do that with romraider? How likely is it that any given alignment place can reset it?

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Wifemobile moves under its own power again. Just gotta make a downpipe for it, and off to tuning land we go.

Used the wagon for wagon things, to facilitate a friend's bad decisions. Fun shop project coming up - stuffing an S2000 motor/trans into his Datsun 620.

What is part number or what did you include in your search?

04 STI on RockAuto. These are the Powerstop branded calipers.

On a side note. I have been working on getting the Castrol Wrap on my ST205 Celica. About 85% done. What a process. My buddy helping me has a pretty nice ABP wagon that I built the motor for.