What did you do to your 4th gen. Legacy today? Vol - 10

Literally bought one of those dividers the other day. Doesn't do much for my contigo water bottle or thermos. Might be a tighter fit for larger diameter drinks.

Literally bought one of those dividers the other day. Doesn't do much for my contigo water bottle or thermos. Might be a tighter fit for larger diameter drinks.

 

 

A 32oz hydro flask will fit the top opening but the bottom tapers in some in the cubby. I usually just have coffee, soda cans, or monster there. I use the back seat cup holders most the time.

 

 

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I just had my 5mt rebuild 900 miles ago. The tranny shop has no explanation for the bucket of rocks noise it still makes. He has been doing tranny's all his life, he's about my age. Everything in the tranny is set to spec.

He took extra time to try and figure it out. He's stumped.

 

The car has made that bucket of rocks sound on decel since the DMFW was replaced with a SMFW back in 2007.

 

I will caution you about reusing the PP with a new disc. It may be fine for a while but won't it wear out sooner ?

 

Interesting, I started noticing it after lightweight SMFW. That said, I've heard stock 08+ LGTs with perfectly quiet transes.

 

I was on the wall about the pressure plate but decided to just keep it. At the end of the day, nothing broke just the old disc doesn't hold the torque, and it only has 27k on it. I don't ride the clutch or anything, and the trans comes down and goes back up in under 4 hours at this point. Makes sense to just run the old plate in my particular case.

My 5mt has been noisy since day one of owning it, rocky accelerating and coasting in 4th and 5th. Only a few passengers have noticed it, but I heard it right away. I've had all 4 transfer drive bearings in boxes and a backup 5mt in my garage for +4 years now in case of increased noise or catastrophic failure. Hasn't happened in over 85k miles, and it drives perfectly normal. Kind of depressing since 5mt's a dime a dozen now and I overpaid for mine. Edited September 3, 2020 by BoozeRS05

2010 WRX driver seat is in the wagon and no dash lights! Not sure if heat works yet, but harnesses were P&P.

....also, the last thing I 'broke' doesn't count yet. The trans that sounds like it has rocks inside of it is still alive and kicking.

 

It's certainly doing a lot better than my broke trans...

2010 WRX driver seat is in the wagon and no dash lights! Not sure if heat works yet, but harnesses were P&P.

What year is your wagon?

 

Scotty

What year is your wagon?

 

Scotty

 

Oh come on now, you know that a 5mt wagon is only a 2005 in this country.

Oh come on now, you know that a 5mt wagon is only a 2005 in this country.

Honestly... I didn't know that.. [emoji2357][emoji2357]

 

Scotty

Oh come on now, you know that a 5mt wagon is only a 2005 in this country.

 

 

That's why I gave up and just got an obxt.

 

 

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What year is your wagon?

 

Scotty

 

It's true, manual LGT wagon's were one year only and my color RBP was too if I'm not mistaken.

 

Cliff notes installing the seat, it's basically three steps and super easy:

- Seat belt buckles need swapped over (t50 on there is tight), and position sensor needs drilled out and moved over.

- Airbag harness needs clipped and swapped, two wires and order doesn't matter.

- The manual rails slide independently of each other. I thought it wasn't going to fit, but didn't realize this. Duh

 

My interior is wrecked or I'd post a pic.

It's true, manual LGT wagon's were one year only and my color RBP was too if I'm not mistaken.

 

Cliff notes installing the seat, it's basically three steps and super easy:

- Seat belt buckles need swapped over (t50 on there is tight), and position sensor needs drilled out and moved over.

- Airbag harness needs clipped and swapped, two wires and order doesn't matter.

- The manual rails slide independently of each other. I thought it wasn't going to fit, but didn't realize this. Duh

 

My interior is wrecked or I'd post a pic.

 

How are you liking the side bolstering compared to the Legacy seats?

A lot. Took my wagon out this morning and the new seat is a much better fit for me (6'1" and 170lbs). I used to have to kind of prop myself against the bolster for corners, not anymore.

Same here. Between the material difference and the bolstering the seats just hold you so much better, especially when taking corners spiritedly. I know there is a common mod to unzip the rear of seat and unclip 1 row of the metal frame basket thingy to allow you to sink into the seat back a little more for even more bolstering.

Dang it... I was thinking I had just about exhausted what I could sink money into on my car (other than big things like 6sp); and now you guys are telling me that I could fit nice WRX/STi seats PnP in my wagon with much better bolstering? Now I'm thinking that would be really nice...

Passenger seat is supposedly much more difficult, but idc if I have mismatched seats since it's not my DD anymore. There are two newer vids up on YT for both seats.

 

Edited September 4, 2020 by BoozeRS05

It's definitely a more involved process than the driver's side but worth it in my opinion.

I doubt I'll ever get around to the passenger seat myself, but it sure looks great with both. I definitely want a nicer version of what I got, STi leather ideally, but for $80 at a local junk yard, I'm very happy.

The '04 WRX fronts that I put in my '01 RS 2.5 have been my favorite seats to-date.

I would love a 5-6yr newer seat that more designed to keep my butt in place.

That or a 5-6yr newer butt.

If you’re going to put in the work to make the passenger side work, may as well go with Evo X Recaros =p

 

I found they are a significant step up in support company to the WRX/STI seats.

Finally found my pre-turbo exhaust leak that I could never seem to fix...

 

 

 

Stupid Invidia up-pipe.

It's slightly too short and I suspect that helped contribute to the stress that broke the weld.

First broken weld I've encountered, even with my cruddy welding.

 

Can't say it was fun to replace the up-pipe, but it was definitely doable; just required some time, PB Blaster, and a few blood sacrifices.

 

On to my next thing because I have a sickness and can't leave well enough alone...

 

I want to try the Grimmspeed intake. I *think* I miss the nice F-14 takeoff sounds when I really get on it that I had with my RS-T.

However, I realized that my HKS inlet isn't exactly what GS had in mind when they designed the intake.

 

 

My inlet has the S-curve built into it.

I'm not terribly enthusiastic about replacing the inlet; it took me a good bit to get it in there and it's been good to me.

Options I can think of are:

1. Get a different inlet. If I go that route, what's a good one to pair with the GS?

2. Carefully cut the S-curve off the HKS and turn it into a more traditional inlet.

3. Try to figure out how to get the GS to work, but I suspect the angles won't allow it.

Edited September 5, 2020 by Infosecdad

Infosecdad, it seems that the Cobb SF might be an easier fit as it retains the same s hose that you can buy separately. I had the GS on my GT, great intake. This time around I am doing the SF because I got a great deal on it (and I have a madrig CF cover )

Just a suggestion as it seems it will work without chopping up the HKS. GL!

Rolled 200k in the wagon picking up this EJ20X. Ended up getting a refund from Low Mile JDM after 3 weeks of no shipment, and picked this up from Chicago. Wife should be busy this weekend!

I want to try the Grimmspeed intake. I *think* I miss the nice F-14 takeoff sounds when I really get on it that I had with my RS-T.

However, I realized that my HKS inlet isn't exactly what GS had in mind when they designed the intake.

 

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My inlet has the S-curve built into it.

I'm not terribly enthusiastic about replacing the inlet; it took me a good bit to get it in there and it's been good to me.

Options I can think of are:

1. Get a different inlet. If I go that route, what's a good one to pair with the GS?

2. Carefully cut the S-curve off the HKS and turn it into a more traditional inlet.

3. Try to figure out how to get the GS to work, but I suspect the angles won't allow it.

 

That HKS inlet is a nice piece! If I were in your shoes, I'd look at used cold air intakes, preferably a GS, and cut the intake to fit the HKS piece. I wouldn't mess with the HKS inlet, especially since you already did the hard work of getting it in!