sliprlgt Posted January 20, 2020 Share Posted January 20, 2020 I went in for an alignment adjustment but was told that toe and camber could not be adjusted to specs. They suspect my trailing arm and upper control arm is bent but they haven't inspected it. I have left with the adjustment that was performed. Have forgotten about it a couple weeks later, one of the tuner shops that I gone for somethings to be done, they did a visual inspection and pointed out that my rear left wheel is toe'd out significantly, (car is lifted). The tuner shop and I did a visual inspection but couldn't find any bent suspension parts. I went there to do other things so I didn't wan't them to focus too much on my suspension. (visual glimpse) Maybe we couldn't notice anything that you guys might think the problem is. What do you guys think could cause the misalignment? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Febreze Mee Posted January 21, 2020 Share Posted January 21, 2020 Although it hasn't significantly changed, your alignment came out worse than what you went in with. Yikes To address your original question. A bent control arm could totally cause the issue. Though I didn't need to tell you that. It is possible the control arm is bent just enough to change your alignment, but not enough to see with a quick glance. If the car has any accident history or off-terrain time, or any of the history with the rear control arms is foggy, I would suggest getting new control arms, and the Whiteline Camber Correction Kit (KCA399). It will help out with your cars natural camber and will bring it in to spec with out a problem. Perhaps a master tech or anyone with a Subaru Tech Manual could guide you to what the factory specs are, what is within tolerance, other ways to check for a bent control arm, etc. MILKRUN - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sliprlgt Posted January 21, 2020 Author Share Posted January 21, 2020 I was looking at the suggesting Whiteline product you stated. Also came upon the Whiteline KTA124 adjustable arms. Would this setup be ideal vs new OEM arms and KCA399 camber bushings? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Febreze Mee Posted January 21, 2020 Share Posted January 21, 2020 If it's feasible, absolutely! I would do a few quick searches to see if the KCA399 kit can be used in conjunction with those control arms. I don't see why they wouldn't, it's Whiteline. However, I do not have any experience with those arms, so verifying would be in your best interest. I ended up finding some USED LGT rear upper control arms (UCA) with a KCA399 kit already installed, unknown mileage. Haven't had a chance to install them yet, and I haven't gotten my car aligned yet. I'm sure one of these nice gentlemen on this here forum have some alignment sheets you can look at, let alone better input on the KTA124 setup and/or KCA399. You could always just save some money and get the KCA399, install, see if it corrects your alignment, then bite the bullet on the KTA124 if you're not satisfied. MILKRUN - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitetiger Posted January 21, 2020 Share Posted January 21, 2020 kta124 will fix it all. curious that they couldnt even do the front properly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sliprlgt Posted January 21, 2020 Author Share Posted January 21, 2020 Awesome, I'll probably go with the kat124. More adjustability. Yeah, I'm not sure why they couldnt do the front. Once I figure everything out and install new parts, I'll go to a different alignment shop. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SonoftheBread Posted January 22, 2020 Share Posted January 22, 2020 Here you go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anarchyx34 Posted January 22, 2020 Share Posted January 22, 2020 Your alignment sheet looks like mine! Mine has about 3 degrees negative camber on the right rear, and 1 degree negative on the right front. I also had excessive toe-in on both rear wheels. For that I used a set of Megan Racing adjustable toe links, but it still didn't explain why so much negative camber on both right side wheels. I ended up running into the PO of my car (he recognized it) and got to chatting. He'd mentioned hitting a pothole on the right side so hard that he blew out the rear shock (he'd installed new shocks). I'm guessing that explains the where the camber is coming from. The question is what ended up getting bent. I'm figuring the knuckle/trailing arm assembly might be slightly tweaked or possibly the subframe although I'm not sure how to measure that. I've already replaced everything (bushings were shot anyway). I might pick up a trailing arm next time I go to the pick-n-pull and see if that takes care of it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SonoftheBread Posted January 23, 2020 Share Posted January 23, 2020 Just realized my response didn't properly link the picture. Here you go for real: https://imgur.com/a/R7CjwbX Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sliprlgt Posted January 24, 2020 Author Share Posted January 24, 2020 Thanks, I'll use it as reference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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