Swine Posted May 31, 2012 Share Posted May 31, 2012 Ive been told the rear subframe has to be removed to get the fuel tank out. Is this correct? What all does that consist of? Lastly, anyone know where i can find some instructions? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted May 31, 2012 Moderators Share Posted May 31, 2012 Hicksta? "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
meier motor sports Posted May 31, 2012 Share Posted May 31, 2012 why do you want to remove the fuel tank? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
meier motor sports Posted May 31, 2012 Share Posted May 31, 2012 REMOVAL WARNING: - Place "NO FIRE" signs near the working area. - Be careful not to spill fuel . Set the vehicle on a lift. Release the fuel pressure. Drain fuel from the fuel tank. Remove the rear seat. Remove the service hole cover from fuel pump. Disconnect the connector from fuel pump. Remove the connector (A) and clips (B). Remove the service hole cover from fuel sub level sensor. Remove the bolts (A). Push the grommet (B) down under the body and remove service hole cover. Disconnect the connector (A) from fuel sub level sensor. Disconnect the quick connector from the fuel delivery (B) and return hose ©. Remove trunk room trim. (Sedan model) Remove rear quarter trim. (Wagon model) Remove pipe protector. Remove the grommet, and then disconnect the quick connector of evaporation pipes. Remove the rear wheels. Remove the bolts which secure the rear brake hose installation bracket. Remove the rear brake caliper and tie it to the vehicle body side. Remove the parking brake cable from parking brake assembly. Lift-up the vehicle. Remove the rear exhaust pipe. Remove the propeller shaft. Remove the heat shield cover. Disconnect the connector from rear ABS wheel speed sensor. Remove the bolts which install the parking brake cable clamp. Remove the rear suspension assembly. CAUTION: A helper is required to perform this work. Support the rear differential with transmission jack. Remove the bolt which installs the rear shock absorber to rear suspension arm. Remove the bolts which secure the rear suspension assembly to body. Remove the rear suspension assembly. Disconnect the connector. Disconnect the evaporation hoses. Disconnect the fuel filler hoses (A) and evaporation hoses (B). Support the fuel tank with transmission jack, remove the bolts from fuel tank bands, and dismount the fuel tank from vehicle. WARNING: A helper is required to perform this work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swine Posted May 31, 2012 Author Share Posted May 31, 2012 Broke off one of the studs on the fuel tank fuel pump cover, it was suggested to just buy a used fuel tank. Thanks Meier. Anyone have any experience just replacing the stud? Is the stud permanently welded in the problem on why you just cant replace the stud? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericem Posted May 31, 2012 Share Posted May 31, 2012 There are many other studs though right? It should be fine with only 1 stud out of the 8 broken. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nrw Posted May 31, 2012 Share Posted May 31, 2012 Broke off one of the studs on the fuel tank fuel pump cover, it was suggested to just buy a used fuel tank. Thanks Meier. Anyone have any experience just replacing the stud? Is the stud permanently welded in the problem on why you just cant replace the stud? Hicksta actually did the exact same thing. Paging Hicksta Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mumblinaviator Posted May 31, 2012 Share Posted May 31, 2012 I didn't break one off, but I lost a nut during my pump swap. The remaining nuts create a proper seal, assuming the rubber gasket is seated properly. I drove around like this for a few days watching for any leaks with 3/4+ tank, nothing happened... but I replaced the nut anyway. You should be fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goneskiian Posted May 31, 2012 Share Posted May 31, 2012 If you didn't pull the stud out of the tank you should still be able to get it to seal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swine Posted May 31, 2012 Author Share Posted May 31, 2012 If you didn't pull the stud out of the tank you should still be able to get it to seal. Yeah the rest of the studs are still there, but obviously one stud is gone, i believe another is on it way out as well. I must not have gotten the seal to seat properly(even though the rubber nibbles lined up correctly?). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted June 2, 2012 Share Posted June 2, 2012 hicksta broke a stud off. it did not seal with 1 stud missing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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