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Flashing brake light on dash


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2015 4cyl Limited. 80k miles.

 

Went to leave work, emerg brake would not disengage. Tried repeatedly. Turned car on and off.

 

Finally it disengaged. And dash light cleared. Drove home.

 

20 highway miles later, it came back on, flashing.

 

I can hear the emerg brake going on and off, but the emrg brake stays on. As in the car won't move.

 

Then I disconnected the battery. That cleared it. But it return to flashing light 30 highway miles later.

 

What is up with this? I'm leaving the brake off for now (light keeps blinking).

 

Also, just had rear brake pads and rotors replaced 2 weeks ago at local shop. Did they F something up?

 

What is going on here?

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They may have ruined one of the actuators.

Maybe by pressing the piston straight back rather than retracting by rotating it properly.

"If you don't know where you're going, any road will take you there." ~ The Cheshire Cat (Alice in Wonderland)

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20 highway miles later ...

...

... it return to flashing light 30 highway miles later.

Why are you still driving a vehicle with known brake problems? You need to take it in to somebody who knows what they're doing ... now.

"If you don't know where you're going, any road will take you there." ~ The Cheshire Cat (Alice in Wonderland)

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before I did most of the work on my own cars (brakes, for example) I had a front axle replaced at a local Monroe shop.

 

The tech never torqued the brake caliper bolts when reassembling that front end, and I started getting intermittent brake light warnings (but it was an old Audi, with other electrical issues).

 

The caliper literally fell off the car while I was driving, I had to pull over, then I drove about 1 mile to an auto parts shop and bought a replacement bolt.

 

i.e. what you don't know, can kill you, if you cannot diagnose the brake light have it towed to a shop and inspected. Now I know better, I do the work I can do, and inspect carefully the work that others do on my car.

 

Today, for example, I have to recheck the torque on the wheel studs because during the NY State inspection they pull off the front passenger wheel.

 

I never let them do that without checking it twice, first to make sure they didn't torque them so hard when reinstalling the wheel that if I get a flat I cannot get that wheel off on the side of the road, and second in case they didn't torque them properly causing them to fall out.

 

In short, tow it to the shop that did the rear brakes, don't drive it.

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IT doesn't sound like its this as you are able to get the EPB to disengage. But if it wasn't already done, I'd take it to the dealer to have this addressed as well

 

"WTB63 - "EPB Reprogramming"

Type: Service Program | Service Campaign: WTB63 | NHTSA Campaign: N/A

Recall Date: March 31, 2016

Description

The EPB system is designed such that the parking brake will apply upon initial activation and re-apply approximately 150 seconds (2 ½ minutes) after initial activation. Due to improper software programing of the EPB system, if an affected vehicle’s ignition switch is turned to the “ON†position at the same time the parking brake is re-applying, electric current will be provided continuously to the left rear EPB motor, eventually causing the motor to seize and prevent release of the parking brake. Should the left EPB motor seize, it will be necessary to replace the EPB Motor Gear Unit- EPB LH.

 

Safety Risk

N/A

 

Remedy

Subaru will reprogram the EPB system with corrected software."

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I wanted to double check before I posted this, I think we're talking about the same light. It's definitely better safe than sorry, and you should take it to the dealer. On page 3-20 of the owners manual they mention that light will illuminate if your brake fluid level is low, I wonder if that's why it is going on and off, from the fluid moving around in the reservoir?
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Yeah, I checked the manual. Brake fluid is good, when warm and cold. Also checked gas cap - that can do funny things to CELs.

 

Since the light has been off after the car sits for a while, it does not strike me as 911, but I will have checked asap.

 

And brakes feel 100% normal in all conditions. It's just that dang light.

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It's just that dang light.

That ... and the parking brake refusing to release ... until it does release.

 

The light is not the problem! It's doing its job and telling you that there's something wrong.

"If you don't know where you're going, any road will take you there." ~ The Cheshire Cat (Alice in Wonderland)

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i had the same issue, and it was one of the electronic connector that was not well clipped. Wiggle them to see if they come loose or if they are well inserted. Because of the protective boots on them, they are hard to properly clip

 

This. Dealer confirmed connector not attached on the left side. All else was good. Reconnected and good to go.

 

I decided to have my spark plugs done while there. I was at 81k miles, so time was right.

 

Afterwards, I took the dealer receipt to the shop that did the brake pads and asked for them to cover what dealer had to fix. They did it in 2 seconds. At least they were nice and sorry for the trouble.

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Can you explain further please?

Management summary: For parking brake actuation, the rear caliper piston is driven by a lead screw. To replace the pads, you have to rotate the piston back down the screw threads ... unless you can use a Subaru-proprietary SSM tool to retract the pistons. This is all addressed in the Factory Service Manual.

"If you don't know where you're going, any road will take you there." ~ The Cheshire Cat (Alice in Wonderland)

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