LF: 2011 Subaru legacy LED KIT

Hi,

 

I've been changing the low beam light about every year or 2 and am getting tired of doing it. I want to get a LED kit so I don't have to worry about the light going out anymore. But i'm worried about buying the wrong one off amazon with flickering issues or other headaches so wondering if anyone knows of one that works and where I can get it since I live in Toronto, Canada.

 

Thanks,

William

I have the vleds micro evolution extreme in my car for about a year and 4 months and they've been great

I have the vleds micro evolution extreme in my car for about a year and 4 months and they've been great

 

Wow, those are pricey (yeah yeah, quality costs $$).

 

I just put in "Lightening Dark" fanless LED highs and lows because I'm cheap and like to buy twice, cry twice. I'm pretty happy with the output and pattern. The highs are insanely bright and have really good throw. Lows have some hot spotting, but it's not that bad. Logevity is yet to be determined though.

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07SZ58HFT

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08354FH4Q

 

Made two separate orders so I could use the coupon on each one (was actually 30% off when I ordered, so only $20.99 per set)

 

Used these boot thingies on the low beams so the heatsinks can beathe...

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076Q9D52Z/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

There's one review that says they cause radio interference, but I can't confirm because I don't even have the antenna plugged into my HU since I don't listen to radio.

LED's fail too.

I would highly recommend the VLEDs Micro Limited. I have the very first generation of the Micro's in my low-beams and they've held up outstandingly for 3+ years, and the newer ones have gotten even better. They obviously a bit more than halogen, but you get what you pay for in quality, and the install is far simpler than HIDs. Additionally, VLEDs runs frequent sales, and also have an always active 10% coupon code SUBARU10 to save a bit more. If you are ok spending a bit more and want massive light output, the Micro Extremes are insane and an additional option, but the Limiteds are a lot more budget friendly.

 

https://www.vleds.com/shop-bulb-numbers/h7/micro-limited-h7.html

 

Here's a video of the throw and output on my Micros. You can see they're illuminating the stop sign and cars hundreds of feet off in the distance. Couldn't recommend them more.

 

I would highly recommend the VLEDs Micro Limited.

 

Those have the same number of Y19 chips as the cheap ones I bought on Amazon, but they also have an obviously better thermal design. We'll see how long mine last before they cook themselves to death. I like that VLEDs are available in 5k color though. If my cheap ones die I might look into getting a set.

Humble Rumble

We're you able to fit the OE dust caps back on with the Micro Limited?

I too have the original Micro's from VLED. They fit just fine inside the dust cap for the low beams. Not sure about how the newer version compares in length.

 

I also got them for the high beams - they don't fit with the stock caps there, but I was able to make a custom solution. I imagine it would be pretty easy to 3D print a better cap now that printers are more common.

Excuse a dissenting opinion, but I suggest just buying the long life Hella or Phillips bulbs and calling it a day. LED retrofits tend to be a headache and lack long term reliability of most LED systems because of poor thermal management.

 

I have yet to get less than 2 years from Phillips extended life bulbs and they are dirt cheap off Rock Auto.

Did you check out

https://www.prolightz.com/

 

their in Canada, give them a call , e-mail, the service has been good the times I bought from them

Excuse a dissenting opinion, but I suggest just buying the long life Hella or Phillips bulbs and calling it a day. LED retrofits tend to be a headache and lack long term reliability of most LED systems because of poor thermal management.

 

I have yet to get less than 2 years from Phillips extended life bulbs and they are dirt cheap off Rock Auto.

 

Plus running LEDs or HIDs in a HALOGEN headlight assembly will cause issues in the future... such as burnt out reflectors.

I too have the original Micro's from VLED. They fit just fine inside the dust cap for the low beams. Not sure about how the newer version compares in length.

 

I also got them for the high beams - they don't fit with the stock caps there, but I was able to make a custom solution. I imagine it would be pretty easy to 3D print a better cap now that printers are more common.

 

There is no cap on the high beams. 9006 bulbs seal with an o-ring. For the low beams, check out those universal dust boots I linked to. They sealed pretty good in my situation and have the benefit of providing better cooling for the LEDs.

do not buy cheap amazon leds

I know some people get 2 years with their normal bulbs but I get about 1ish and even got some 'extended life' bulbs last time hoping it would last the life of the car but after 1 year 1 is now burnt out. The car is probably on the later cycle of its life, I don't want to be changing the headlights ever year since its a whole procedure with this car.

do not buy cheap amazon leds

 

define 'cheap' give me a $$$

Also, is a canbus attachment needed for a LED conversion or just that little thing that it comes with is enough?

there's no dollar amount because the same cheap crap bulbs from the same factories are branded and sold by different companies for widely different amounts. if you're getting LED bulbs that you want to *last*, pony up and get vleds, or if you want top of the line spend the $200 for some morimotos.

 

i am absolutely one that's always looking for a bargain, but when it comes to high failure items and anything that goes between me and the ground(shoes, tires, mattress), pony up and spend the money.

There is no cap on the high beams. 9006 bulbs seal with an o-ring. For the low beams, check out those universal dust boots I linked to. They sealed pretty good in my situation and have the benefit of providing better cooling for the LEDs.

 

My bad. I completely forgot I don't have stock headlights...

 

So what I said is true for the U-bar style headlights, not stock legacy units.

Also, is a canbus attachment needed for a LED conversion or just that little thing that it comes with is enough?

I imagine it depends on which set you get. For the VLEDS you don't need anything other than what comes in the box (the LEDS and the drivers - everything tucks right into the headlight)

Wow, those are pricey (yeah yeah, quality costs $$).

 

I just put in "Lightening Dark" fanless LED highs and lows because I'm cheap and like to buy twice, cry twice. I'm pretty happy with the output and pattern. The highs are insanely bright and have really good throw. Lows have some hot spotting, but it's not that bad. Logevity is yet to be determined though.

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07SZ58HFT

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08354FH4Q

 

Made two separate orders so I could use the coupon on each one (was actually 30% off when I ordered, so only $20.99 per set)

 

Used these boot thingies on the low beams so the heatsinks can beathe...

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076Q9D52Z/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

There's one review that says they cause radio interference, but I can't confirm because I don't even have the antenna plugged into my HU since I don't listen to radio.

What do the highbeams do when running as DRLs? do you get full brightness? I like a lower color temperature than those - 6500k is too blue for me (the VLEDS I bought are 5k - also, they go on sale every now and then - I think it was something like 20 or 25% off around christmas the year before last)

 

 

 

I like the boots you are using - might pick up a set to have the heatsink/fan outside the housing

What do the highbeams do when running as DRLs? do you get full brightness?

 

They run at 100% brightness, all the time when DRLs are on.

What do the highbeams do when running as DRLs? do you get full brightness?

 

They did run at reduced brightness (still too bright IMO), but there was some flicker so I disconnected the DRL resistor. I originally planned to rewire things so the city lights ran as the DRLs. Was too tired to deal with it when I installed the lights and new bumper. Maybe I'll get around to it sometime this summer.

 

Another option I have is to use my dual color white/yellow LED fogs as the DRLs, but it would require taking them apart and moddifying them (I would use white for DRL). The way they work now is they change color with a power cycle. It's kind of dumb; they don't work like I assumed they would. I thought the color change required a quick power cycle, but the color changes regardless of how long the cycle is. The aiming point for the white LEDs is also significantly lower than the yellow. They're decently bright and have a clean cut off though.

The DRL and the Hi-Beam are one in the same bulb, so with a halogen bulb installed, they run at reduced brightness, but with an LED bulb installed, they run at full brightness, so it's essentially just the high-beam bulb at full blast and nothing else on.

 

I personally grabbed up the VLEDs Micro Limited in the 3000K Ion Yellow color. The yellow color helps reduce the blinding brightness of a 5000k or 6000k at full blast. I really love the look of the yellow lights (I also have my fog lights yellow, so when I flash my bright (which turns off the fogs temporarily) I can do a fun yellow flash effect that mildly mimics an emergency vehicle lol, which I've NEEEEVER abused on a two-lane highway when two semi trucks are pacing each other ).

 

Hikari on Amazon. 1000000% would buy again. The newgen red boxes have insane output, fans clear the OEM housing on lows, clears the lens on fogs, and have been reliable since day one.

 

Anybody that says "don't buy amazon" is wrong and hasn't been the guinea pig of affordable options or just labels everything cheap as bad.

Anybody that says "don't buy amazon" is wrong and hasn't been the guinea pig of affordable options or just labels everything cheap as bad.

 

I had a pair of cheap $10 pair of LED Highbeams/DRLs on my Legacy before I sold it. They were incredible and worked perfecly lol. The fans worked great on them and they were bright. Personally I stick with the whitest/brightest Halogen bulbs I can find for my high beams & fog lights on my current car because I don't mind them (2013 Acura RDX). My car current car also has factory HIDs so that's not a concern for me lmao. I would however suggest putting LED bulbs everywhere else (like the interior & side marker lights, etc).