for those who are stage 2, elh or tmic to extend #4 cylinders life?

been searched and got no specific answer.

As my title posted, from my so limited mechanical knownledge, #4 cylinder retain highest heat than others and fail due to the longest length from stock manifold, and now i'm on stage 1.9:lol: (car is still in the air, waiting for her engine mount, axle boots install, also dp and tbe are still sitting on the ground aside the car)

So i'm thinking which parts i should go first, since more than likely the stock header will need to be removed in order to install engine mount, ...elh? or better tmic? or radiator?

i heard stock radiator/tmic is good for small turbo and i'm not planning to drop a huge snail in it. if the issue is mainly from the stock uelh, why don't i just simply replace with an elh? but here south of texas, 90F~100F seems quite often in summer. to extend engine life, myshoulder evil keeps telling me to buy an elh. unfortunately on other side my shoulder angel keeps reminding me that i might need some money for later my stock clutch fail. heard many said stock clutch wouldnt last too long after stage2, mine is 120k now, i do track once in awhile but never launch and abuse it.

thanks

btw, does AOS a must? thinking to install a crawford's before the car back on her duty.

edit: reason i came up with such stupid thought is.. i read somewhere here, found a post suggest to extend engine life, elh, aos, bp stock tmic, check oil....are quite important.

I've read/heard that the EJ engine loses piston rings due to the way the oil sits in the engine when the engine is off. Either way, I don't think modifying the car will make it more reliable. In cars with forged internals, cracked piston rings are still incredibly common. In fact, if I recall correctly, in a SavageGeese review, he looked at a late-model STi and talked about how a new engine was developed for it. After 100K simulated miles with forged rings, the forged pistons lost the very same oil control ring that fails on stock cars, so they went back to using cast parts. I don't know if there's definitively one thing that causes ringland failure, but it seems inevitable. My car went 214K before mine gave up the ghost.

Just make sure not to lug the engine, make sure it has oil, make sure you tune the car with a reputable tuner so you can make sure to not see any knock that would shorten the life of the rings, and keep up on maintenance. PCV valve, synthetic oil, and it seems that installing an AOS does help. Crawford, IAG, and Cobb all make good air/oil separators. Always run premium gas. Don't race the car for more than a minute or two at a time.

They do have a kit or a hose rather that lets you flow coolant cyclinder 4 to drop its temperature some. I paid like 75 bucks for one.... why not.

http://shop.getadomtune.com/shop.getadomtune.com/cylinder-4-chamber-cooling-system/

My car went 214K before mine gave up the ghost.

reason? did you fix it?

Don't race the car for more than a minute or two at a time.

what do you mean??

They do have a kit or a hose rather that lets you flow coolant cyclinder 4 to drop its temperature some. I paid like 75 bucks for one.... why not.

 

 

 

http://shop.getadomtune.com/shop.getadomtune.com/cylinder-4-chamber-cooling-system/

way too complicated for me to understand

reason? did you fix it?

 

what do you mean??

Oil starvation, but I was getting ready to replace the engine anyways since it burnt through a quart of oil in just under 500 miles last time I drove it. I parked it for a couple months and drove a beater while I bought parts and saved up.

The engine is prone to heat-soaking, so don't keep the RPMs high for more than a short period of time. Those who track these cars often have some cooling mods to keep them cool. Also would recommend an upgraded intercooler.

way too complicated for me to understand

Basically by design cylinder 4 gets hotter than the other cylinders by a significant amount. This mod increases flow to the head for that cylinder.

" Industry first (and patent pending) DOHC EJ Cylinder 4 Combustion Chamber Cooling kit increases coolant flow in the LH head to improve reliability by reducing detonation causing hot spots, reducing EGT delta and improving overall cooling system performance. "

What's hard to understand? You said you are thinking about cylinder 4, this mod drops the temperature of cylinder 4, and raises the others a little, but pretty much makes the cooling more efficient. For 75 bucks its cheap insurance. Remember you posted a question specifically about heat and cylinder 4, I link you the only known mod which directly applies to what your asking and your like whaaaaa.... lol smh, Merry Christmas!

This hose drops the temp of cylinder 4!!

 

What's hard to understand? You said you are thinking about cylinder 4, this mod drops the temperature of cylinder 4, and raises the others a little, but pretty much makes the cooling more efficient.

sorry, was a bit rush watching the video before heading to work

.. and yes, after watching a whole video plus their

ok, now i have another question, would this reverse cooling and AOS compatible/conflict? thanks

Oil starvation, but I was getting ready to replace the engine anyways since it burnt through a quart of oil in just under 500 miles last time I drove it. I parked it for a couple months and drove a beater while I bought parts and saved up.

mine burnt 1/2 to 3/4qt of oil at around 2200~2500miles too, so i fill it up then do oil change after 3300~3500 (depend on oils color, no more than 4k miles). thinking of get it rebuilt after 150k (now it's 120k) too. omg, it was sitting in garage for a yr

I think the answer to your question lies in what the goals are for your car tempered with your budget. All of the things you have listed, AOS,TMIC, ELH, and a radiator, obviously won’t hurt the performance and longevity of the car but if your goal is to have a daily diver that you can stomp on from time to time or go for a fun Sunday toss on a country road, then that should dictate your choices. The harder you drive the car, the more those items will keep you from having issues.

Yes the #4 cyl. Is a weak link but that needs to be kept in context. Before the Dom Tune mod came out there were lots of guys running this platform hard for many years in various performance arenas from full on HP track monsters to lightly modified stoplight race kids and it’s not like “everyone was blowing their #4 ringland”. I think the Dom Tune mod is generally a good idea if your really pushing the car all the time, i.e.- tracking it. Is it a good idea for a daily? Sure if the investment and install hassle isn’t an issue then go for it but it wouldn’t be high on my mod list based on what you seem to want to do with the car. Case in point: I daily drove my GT Wagon for the first 8 years at stage 2, then 3, of its life. This included 8 years of absolutely driving the piss out of the car on track during track season. On stock exhaust manifolds. On a stock radiator. With no AOS. With no major mechanical issues.

How? The tune. If these cars are PROPERLY tuned and maintained, they can be run hard, (within reason) for quite some time. I say this with the caveat that I bought my car new so the engine health was a known quantity. Used car? All bets are off. Crap tunes and poor maintenance are the number one killer of these cars. The ringlands on these pistons crack because they are a little too thin for repeated abuse, i.e. knock events, (and too brittle since they are cast not forged). They can’t hold up to repeated knock events and will eventually fail. The goal is to not create knock events in the first place. How? A good tune...

Out of everything you’ve listed, I’d probably go with an upgraded intercooler, like a Grimmspeed, to help you with day to day heat soak. (With a move to a front mount being the ultimate answer but more $ and complexity). As for an AOS, a properly functioning PCV system on these cars is more than enough for the car for a stg2 daily driver use and occasional stomp.

Is the car overheating? If not the the stock rad is fine. It will eventually fail when the plastic end tanks start to deteriorate but again, tons of high mileage Legacy’s out there running stock radiators just fine. I’m sure the engineers at Subaru spec’d out the radiator to handle hot climates without any issues. Again, if the car is torn apart and you can afford it then sure swap in a Koyo but there isn’t anything wrong with a properly functioning OEM radiator on. Stg. 2 daily.

As for headers, yup, adding a new ELH will bring your exhaust temps down a bit and you’ll pick up some mid range torque. That said, a GOOD one will set you back a pretty penny and a mediocre one will most likely crack and fail over time. If they're not wrapped, they will really add heat the the engine bay, something you’re concerned with. That’s one of the nice things about the cast manifolds, they are thick and heavy (so a decent heat sink), and with the OEM heat shields on there, they do best they can at managing heat.

All of this to say that your goals should dictate where you should spend your money. Unless money is not a problem

I'll agree with shralp. It's all in the Tune. I learned that back in the early 2000's with our Honda Civic with big turbo running 35psi.

My 05GT wagon has become a model for how a great tune can make for a fun DD. The car has a vf52 and dynoed at 21-si on stock fueling back in Aug 2011, that vf52 has over 150,000 trouble free miles on it.

The ej257 still runs great, I put it in May 2012 at 154,000miles on the car, it just turned 296,000 miles yesterday. The engine has seen 7000rpm a large # of times.

I did the big Mishimoto AL radiator years ago, not sure if the larger volume made a big difference in long life. It does have a AOS that mounts to the oil fill tube, but I don't plan to do that to my 09 Spec B.

Both cars will always have a stock exhaust manifold.

I do enjoy the GS tmic on both cars, the fitment is great, easy to remove and install.

Find a great Tuner, that's the key piece of the puzzle. I think there's a great shop close to you...may be someone remembers "Mary's" car I think she was pushing 600WHP back a few years ago.

Or try Dave at https://www.cryotuneperformance.com/

They do have a kit or a hose rather that lets you flow coolant cyclinder 4 to drop its temperature some. I paid like 75 bucks for one.... why not.

 

http://shop.getadomtune.com/shop.getadomtune.com/cylinder-4-chamber-cooling-system/

ok, my parts are about done and should be arrive to my door within a week or so. start picking up few more things online then getting my gloves on again.

i found getadomtune tubing neither plastic nor aluminum T are currently unavailable. wherelse can i pick up one please? thanks Tehnation

I did the big Mishimoto AL radiator years ago, not sure if the larger volume made a big difference in long life. It does have a AOS that mounts to the oil fill tube, but I don't plan to do that to my 09 Spec B.[/url]

are they direct fit? since im going to replace the engine mount, i'll have to remove radiator bolts/fans in order to life the engine anyway, best time to do it as well i think? thanks Max

Torque Solution also makes the Cylinder 4 kit. I installed it on my car when I changed/upgraded my coolant system. Currently running a full Mishimoto coolant system- large aluminum radiator, fans, aluminum overflow tank, and oversized aluminum reservoir. I've had good results with everything and saw a significant temp decrease. Most people Koyo radiators to Mishimoto from what I've read.

Here's a link to the Torque Solution kit

http://www.torquesolution.com/Cylinder-4-Coolant-Mod-p/ts-su-585.htm

Did some looking and found this thread, see post #19, https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/thoughts-reviews-getadomtune-cylinder-4-chamber-cooling-systemi-281855p2.html

I did some searching and found these.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/vpe-16620?seid=srese1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwyN-DBhCDARIsAFOELTnSJAZl5GUlJKWaGmIaTN8MKFd6oks0HI7AsfpAOetNxmOq9UF93X4aAhLqEALw_wcB

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/shop/an-hose-ends~14-25-286-18126

those and a T fitting with a piece of heater hose would make up the kit.

I thought the thread was something about the Dom #4 cooling kit...

For those that don't know, Parker fittings are nation wide, A buddy and I stopped by one a couple weeks back to have them make new 20FT long hose for his lift. These stores will have any fitting you think you'll need.

https://www.google.com/search?q=parker+store+manchester+ct&rlz=1C1OKWM_enUS906US906&oq=parker+store&aqs=chrome.1.69i57j0i402j0l2j46i175i199j0l3j46i175i199j0.4539j0j15&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

This T is plastic but its at NAPA, https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NDP6601484

https://www.pepboys.com/dorman-help-heater-hose-connectors-5-8-x-3-8-x-5-8-tee-plastic-carded/product/8471000

https://www.google.com/search?q=5%2F8%22x5%2F8%22x3%2F8%22+tee&rlz=1C1OKWM_enUS906US906&oq=5%2F8%22x5%2F8%22x3%2F8%22+tee&aqs=chrome..69i57&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

I think the answer to your question lies in what the goals are for your car tempered with your budget. All of the things you have listed, AOS,TMIC, ELH, and a radiator, obviously won’t hurt the performance and longevity of the car but if your goal is to have a daily diver that you can stomp on from time to time or go for a fun Sunday toss on a country road, then that should dictate your choices. The harder you drive the car, the more those items will keep you from having issues.

 

Yes the #4 cyl. Is a weak link but that needs to be kept in context. Before the Dom Tune mod came out there were lots of guys running this platform hard for many years in various performance arenas from full on HP track monsters to lightly modified stoplight race kids and it’s not like “everyone was blowing their #4 ringland”. I think the Dom Tune mod is generally a good idea if your really pushing the car all the time, i.e.- tracking it. Is it a good idea for a daily? Sure if the investment and install hassle isn’t an issue then go for it but it wouldn’t be high on my mod list based on what you seem to want to do with the car. Case in point: I daily drove my GT Wagon for the first 8 years at stage 2, then 3, of its life. This included 8 years of absolutely driving the piss out of the car on track during track season. On stock exhaust manifolds. On a stock radiator. With no AOS. With no major mechanical issues.

 

How? The tune. If these cars are PROPERLY tuned and maintained, they can be run hard, (within reason) for quite some time. I say this with the caveat that I bought my car new so the engine health was a known quantity. Used car? All bets are off. Crap tunes and poor maintenance are the number one killer of these cars. The ringlands on these pistons crack because they are a little too thin for repeated abuse, i.e. knock events, (and too brittle since they are cast not forged). They can’t hold up to repeated knock events and will eventually fail. The goal is to not create knock events in the first place. How? A good tune...

 

Out of everything you’ve listed, I’d probably go with an upgraded intercooler, like a Grimmspeed, to help you with day to day heat soak. (With a move to a front mount being the ultimate answer but more $ and complexity). As for an AOS, a properly functioning PCV system on these cars is more than enough for the car for a stg2 daily driver use and occasional stomp.

 

Is the car overheating? If not the the stock rad is fine. It will eventually fail when the plastic end tanks start to deteriorate but again, tons of high mileage Legacy’s out there running stock radiators just fine. I’m sure the engineers at Subaru spec’d out the radiator to handle hot climates without any issues. Again, if the car is torn apart and you can afford it then sure swap in a Koyo but there isn’t anything wrong with a properly functioning OEM radiator on. Stg. 2 daily.

 

As for headers, yup, adding a new ELH will bring your exhaust temps down a bit and you’ll pick up some mid range torque. That said, a GOOD one will set you back a pretty penny and a mediocre one will most likely crack and fail over time. If they're not wrapped, they will really add heat the the engine bay, something you’re concerned with. That’s one of the nice things about the cast manifolds, they are thick and heavy (so a decent heat sink), and with the OEM heat shields on there, they do best they can at managing heat.

 

All of this to say that your goals should dictate where you should spend your money. Unless money is not a problem

I agree 100%, I just thought by now everyone on this forum should know the tune is probably the single most important mod to these cars.... maybe we should put a sticky somewhere "#1 mod - tune the car" lol, I just assume its understood that a tune is #1 priority. We should make a sticky if there isn't one.

I do agree with the upgraded tmic, but does he even have a downpipe? You can't mod the tmic before the downpipe, seems pointless to me because the turbo is being bottlenecked by downpipe. I wouldn't mod anything without changing the downpipe first.

whats wrong with the stock exhaust manifold? I don't see a point unless you have some real mods ie fuel and air.

If your car is bone stock... do the bulletproof mod, get a 3" downpipe, and tune the car. You will see significant gains at a reliable level for minimal $$$. Its like what 250-400 for a downpipe(even less if used maybe 150), 150 for an etune, and whatever cost to bulletproof the tmic, its like 100 for that kit if its in stock, and like maybe 20 30 bucks if you know what ur doing and what to order.

Thats what I would do, and you would only spend 350- 600 bucks tops. But no point modding the car without a downpipe. downpipe/uppipe is step one.