What did you do to your 5th gen today?? -V4

So I attempted to do upgrade my FSB and bushings today. What a nightmare. After cutting the end links off the control arms and disconnecting the tie rods, it quickly became clear that I either need to lift the engine or remove the oil pan. I'm leaning toward removing the oil pan since I want to replace it anyway, the problem is that means I'll need to order one. So now I have to cut the end links off the original sway bar so I can install new links and put everything back the way it was for now.

 

 

 

@foxrider28, did you ever get your belt situation sorted? The 4060653/6PK1657 Elite Poly-V/Gatorback belt I ordered on ebay fit perfectly. No struggle at all to put on. It replaced a Gates Micro-V K060651/6KP1655 that was showing some cracks.

Realized calling it names just made it tense back up [emoji1787]

Did an oil change!

Some oil found under the turbo (intake side). Took off the inlet hose and didn't see much oil there (typical pcv amount if any) I don't think it's the oil drain gasket because that was replaced when I did downpipe install a while ago. Think the seals are done? Still hitting 16psi and not see smoke on pulls.

Would have thought oil collecting there is expected if not using a catch can?

I had the same thought as well.

Directly above that pool of oil is where the crankcase breather hoses terminate. When I took my turbo off my suby it looked the same.

If it is an issue, I must have had the same one?

Not sure as I don't plan to reuse the turbo for my build either way (when I eventually get the car back together).

Winter is coming It has been down at or below freezing almost every night recently so time to pull the summer wheels and tires off and put on the OEM rims with Nokian snow tires.....Usually not a bad job with an electric impact gun and a nice new floor jack. NOT today....got one wheel changed and the second one going up on the jack when...Oops, the hydraulic cylinder in the jack popped a seal and puked all the fluid onto the garage floor.......Oh well, back to the little hand crank jack from the truck.

Got it done and washed to car for good measure....washed all the OZ rims with the Michelins and put them away for the season.

Drove mine for the first time in a couple of weeks since I went into the office. A little bit of shaking for the first 1/2 mile. I know the wheel bearing was identified previously as making some noise. Guess I'll dive into that next year sometime lol

My tires get flats spots from siting for a few weeks which will work them selves out when the tires heat up.

Winter is coming It has been down at or below freezing almost every night recently so time to pull the summer wheels and tires off and put on the OEM rims with Nokian snow tires.....Usually not a bad job with an electric impact gun and a nice new floor jack. NOT today....got one wheel changed and the second one going up on the jack when...Oops, the hydraulic cylinder in the jack popped a seal and puked all the fluid onto the garage floor.......Oh well, back to the little hand crank jack from the truck.

Got it done and washed to car for good measure....washed all the OZ rims with the Michelins and put them away for the season.

I have to do that as well. I don't drive my GT in the salt anymore, but I would prefer have it sit on my snow tires for the winter. Plus when the roads are clean I can drive the car in the sub 40F temps.

Installed my updated winter setup the other day. Decided to plasti-dip my stock wheels Gloss White just for the heck of it, really happy with how they came out. Numerous times last year, my car got so salty that the wheels looked white, and I found myself liking the look so much that it inspired me to actually make them white this year and I'm totally digging the look. And yes, I know white wheels are "hell to clean" but I have a solution: I don't plan to ever clean them lol.

These wheels are 17x7.5 +48 stock 3.6R wheels, wrapped in 215/55/17 General Altimax Arctic 12s. I decided to add spacers to keep decent yet functional and livable fitment through the cold months. I had a set of 5x100 56.1 bore 25mm spacers I bought from Amazon that I ran on the front last year, those are now running on the back. If anyone recalls my suspension shenanigans, I have the Legacy tS front control arms on my car, which result in a 20mm narrower track width than stock, due to the JDM cars having a narrower track width than USDM. So if I just ran 25mm spacers in the front as well, I'd end up 10mm per side more inset in the front than rear. Through some deep searching, I managed to find that Ichiba makes a 5x100 56.1 bore 35mm spacer set, which is PERFECT. They were out of stock everywhere, but I managed to find a brand new pair on ebay. Snapped them up, and slapped them on the front, so everything is nice and square.

Long story short,

17x7.5 +48

215/55/17

Ichiba 5x100 56.1 35mm spacers front (-10mm tS arms)

Amazon 5x100 56.1 25mm spacers rear

Fenders rolled flat and aggressively pulled

Love the contrast (and thought process) for a winter setup. Have you had to do anything to your studs to make the spacers work?

THAT was something else serendipitous that kind of just came together perfectly. Stick with me for this needlessly lengthy explanation.

From my experience with spacers last year, I knew that 25mm was the minimum BOLT-ON spacer that I could fit without cutting the factory studs. I tried a 15mm bolt-on and the original studs fouled on the stock wheel. So because of that, last winter, I ran a 25mm bolt-on spacer in the front (to address the strut rub issue introduced from my control arms), and a 5mm SLIP-ON spacer in the rear. From all my readings, 5mm is about the widest you want to go for a slip-on spacer to still get enough thread engagement, and true to reading, the rears were fine all winter, and YES, I was wider in the front than I was in the rear all winter lmao.

Fast forward to spring when I got my new summer wheels. I knew that I needed to run a 10mm spacer up front to counter the tS arms, so I knew I'd have to do extended studs. I bought the 10mm spacer from FastWRX, and they also offered 2 types of extended studs: ARP studs (+35mm longer than stock) and H&R studs (+5mm longer thank stock). I did not want to be forced to run an open-end lug nut, so I wanted to keep as short as possible. Remembering back to my 5mm slip on spacer experience, doing that math on a 10mm spacer minus a 5mm longer stud left me the equivalent of a 5mm spacer, and enough thread engagement. So for summer, I ran no spacer on the rear, and a 10mm spacer with +5mm H&R extended studs on the front.

Now this winter, I obviously wanted to leave the H&R studs in the front, and didn't want to mess with changing studs in the rear, but I knew that with the longer H&R studs, the 25mm spacer would no longer clear up front, and the H&R studs would foul on the stock wheel. So after doing fitment math with willtheyfit.com, I found that, with the addition of a 25mm spacer in the REAR, my 215/55/17 17x7.5 +48 became essentially +23, which is 4.1mm less poke than my 255/40/18 18x9 +38 summer setup, which for me, was close enough to perfect. And thankfully, I was able to find a 35mm 5x100 56.1 spacer to work up front and keep everything square, and be thick enough to clear the ~30mm H&R studs.

So thankfully, everything worked out, and my needlessly over-complicated fitment still works.

Installed my updated winter setup the other day. Decided to plasti-dip my stock wheels Gloss White just for the heck of it, really happy with how they came out. Numerous times last year, my car got so salty that the wheels looked white, and I found myself liking the look so much that it inspired me to actually make them white this year and I'm totally digging the look. And yes, I know white wheels are "hell to clean" but I have a solution: I don't plan to ever clean them lol.

 

These wheels are 17x7.5 +48 stock 3.6R wheels, wrapped in 215/55/17 General Altimax Arctic 12s. I decided to add spacers to keep decent yet functional and livable fitment through the cold months. I had a set of 5x100 56.1 bore 25mm spacers I bought from Amazon that I ran on the front last year, those are now running on the back. If anyone recalls my suspension shenanigans, I have the Legacy tS front control arms on my car, which result in a 20mm narrower track width than stock, due to the JDM cars having a narrower track width than USDM. So if I just ran 25mm spacers in the front as well, I'd end up 10mm per side more inset in the front than rear. Through some deep searching, I managed to find that Ichiba makes a 5x100 56.1 bore 35mm spacer set, which is PERFECT. They were out of stock everywhere, but I managed to find a brand new pair on ebay. Snapped them up, and slapped them on the front, so everything is nice and square.

 

Long story short,

17x7.5 +48

215/55/17

Ichiba 5x100 56.1 35mm spacers front (-10mm tS arms)

Amazon 5x100 56.1 25mm spacers rear

Fenders rolled flat and aggressively pulled

 

I have 20mm all around and always thought that a few more in the rear would look better. I have a 3.6 but just recently bought a set of GT wheels and was waiting to see how it all looked with the 20mm's in the rear but now you've got me thinking otherwise.

Well what I did to my LGT (day before Thanksgiving) was say goodbye. It's been a fun 9+ years but it was time to move on. At least the replacement still has a turbo!

LGT was traded in then sold in under a week. I'm hoping to get in touch with the new owner to see if he wants some history and extra parts. If anyone sees a new member on the forum with it, send them my way!

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Well what I did to my LGT (day before Thanksgiving) was say goodbye. It's been a fun 9+ years but it was time to move on. At least the replacement still has a turbo!

 

LGT was traded in then sold in under a week. I'm hoping to get in touch with the new owner to see if he wants some history and extra parts. If anyone sees a new member on the forum with it, send them my way![ATTACH]288511[/ATTACH]

 

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lost an LGT brother but gained a LWN one. is that the AT4 version? i just have a Z71 colorado but i absolutely love it. its surprisingly capable offroad too even without the locking diffs, and the thing tows like an absolute dream.... what kind of extra parts you got?

I have 20mm all around and always thought that a few more in the rear would look better. I have a 3.6 but just recently bought a set of GT wheels and was waiting to see how it all looked with the 20mm's in the rear but now you've got me thinking otherwise.

Keep in mind as well, the GT wheels are 7mm further inset than the 3.6R wheels on the same width.

3.6 - 17x7.5 +48

GT - 18x7.5 +55

lost an LGT brother but gained a LWN one. is that the AT4 version? i just have a Z71 colorado but i absolutely love it. its surprisingly capable offroad too even without the locking diffs, and the thing tows like an absolute dream.... what kind of extra parts you got?

Yeah, AT4 CarbonPro with the Duramax. I got a tonneau cover ordered for it, that's it so far. Not sure what else I'll do in the short term. When Banks releases their tuner for it, I might grab that.

First truck, so a lot to get used to

Yeah, AT4 CarbonPro with the Duramax. I got a tonneau cover ordered for it, that's it so far. Not sure what else I'll do in the short term. When Banks releases their tuner for it, I might grab that.

 

First truck, so a lot to get used to

First truck for me too, I've told myself I'll wait at least a year till i tune it, it'd be great if banks came up with something for it but there are already a bunch of options, currently looking at the duramaxtuner setup with the dial since i do tow with it and don't want it on full kill all the time but need the option, plus it's just fun to have another thing to play with. can't believe its supposed to get even better gas mileage after a tune, i already get 30 pretty easily on country highways. first owner ditched the front air damn on mine so its not quite that at 65+. congrats on the new truck

I have 20mm all around and always thought that a few more in the rear would look better. I have a 3.6 but just recently bought a set of GT wheels and was waiting to see how it all looked with the 20mm's in the rear but now you've got me thinking otherwise.

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I have 25mm spacers all around on my GT, I think its as flush as you can get without rolling and pulling. I am only slightly dropped though. Pretty soon I'll be dropping an inch and I'll see if everything still works without rubbing.

 

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Stock GT wheels with 25mm spacers will work just fine even with a healthy drop.

I'm down ptobably close to 2" and my spare tire is a stock GT wheel with a 25mm spacer when installed up front, to clear the Brembos. No rubbing when I had to use it.

I have 25mm spacers all around on my GT, I think its as flush as you can get without rolling and pulling. I am only slightly dropped though. Pretty soon I'll be dropping an inch and I'll see if everything still works without rubbing.

 

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I'm on a 1.5" drop on some springs and stock struts. I'm really considering picking up some 25mm's for the rear now. Just curious to see what the GT wheels look like when theyre on the car before I do. I may be satisfied if theyre +7mm over the 3.6's wheels.