Turbo inlet advice

It seems like lately I’m chasing down CONSTANT boost/ vac leaks and it’s getting real old, so it’s time to just replace as many of the hoses and gaskets as possible. What inlet do you guys recommend? I figure if I’m going to lift the manifold and replace vac/ fuel lines I may as well replace it. Let me know what y’all think and if you have any part numbers for weird hoses let me know. The pcv stuff is all new.

I went with an OEM inlet, just because it was easier back in May 2012.

 

I'm still running the same fuel lines the car came with, just make sure you rotate the clamps, so you can tighten from the top if ever needed. Still have the OEM vac lines there too.

OE will be the easiest.

Debating this myself. My OEM made it to almost 15 years before starting to leak. But it isn't all that much cheapr than a Cobb inlet, so I'm undecided currently.

 

Seeing OEM in the $100ish range and a Conn around $200.

I’ve installed both oem and aftermarket several times. I don’t honestly remember what brands but they didn’t seem to fit well. Like it was squished under the intake. I’m not as worried about ease of install as I am about fitment and not having to trim it or anything. At the end of the day I’ll likely go oem but if there is an actual good aftermarket piece I may just go the rout

I have COBB inlet and it does barely fit under the intake. What's worse it large enough to put some pressure on turbo tank hoses that run down to radiator - they are squeezed between the COBB inlet and hood. This far it did not create any issues other that leaving a large imprint on the OEM blanket that's clipped to hood underneath.

 

The one "gotcha" moment about COBB was trimming it to fit length wise. It is not entirely easy job to do due to space limitations and accessibility. I almost cut off too much before catching myself and remeasuring again. OEM is molded to fit 100%.

 

Also, PCV hose was difficult to run due to size of COBB and location of the nipples on COBB so I had to route it differently. I didn't run into any issues, but COBB supplied hose is already cracking in multiple places.

Edited December 2, 2021 by SubOperator

the oem is sounding better and better.

I have a Perrin unit and no complaints, but my mechanical know-how usually ends where the intake manifold has to come off. The aftermarket inlets are pretty stiff and inflexible. That said, Surgeline recommended not using OEM ones as they're prone to producing vacuum leaks with relatively frequent removal and reinstallation so I've kept the Perrin one on that the PO put on when he replaced the OEM turbo.

I have a Perrin unit and no complaints, but my mechanical know-how usually ends where the intake manifold has to come off. The aftermarket inlets are pretty stiff and inflexible. That said, Surgeline recommended not using OEM ones as they're prone to producing vacuum leaks with relatively frequent removal and reinstallation so I've kept the Perrin one on that the PO put on when he replaced the OEM turbo.

 

 

Installation for aftermarket inlet is the relative PITA. Once installed, I hope to not touch it again unless some major work needs to be done.

 

 

IMHO the only potential problem with OEM is the thickness (or lack thereof) of turbo flange. That's where mine ripped eventually after ~12-13 years. The worm style clamp makes for easy adjustment but is also ends up cutting through the flange over time. Turbo flange is thinner than the air filter box flange which is weird to me.

 

 

 

If I ever have to take COBB off, I'll see if putting new OEM inlet and having some thick silicone band around the turbo flange to let clamp sit on that silicone band will provide better solution. Couple that with a better worm style clamp that does not cut into the material and it should be good for a long time.

Running Perrin on advice from my guys at Cobb Surgeline. But they installed it so no idea if it’s a bitch or not

I have COBB inlet and it does barely fit under the intake. What's worse it large enough to put some pressure on turbo tank hoses that run down to radiator - they are squeezed between the COBB inlet and hood. This far it did not create any issues other that leaving a large imprint on the OEM blanket that's clipped to hood underneath.

 

The one "gotcha" moment about COBB was trimming it to fit length wise. It is not entirely easy job to do due to space limitations and accessibility. I almost cut off too much before catching myself and remeasuring again. OEM is molded to fit 100%.

 

Also, PCV hose was difficult to run due to size of COBB and location of the nipples on COBB so I had to route it differently. I didn't run into any issues, but COBB supplied hose is already cracking in multiple places.

 

Do you have the original or version 2 model?

I will second the Perrin unit , I have my intake manifold off currently but test fitting the fit is real nice

 

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If I where you I would pull the intake and do intake , gaskets, TGV gaskets and throttle body gasket, mine where in sad shape at 177k and clearly leaking by the oil build up around all the seals

 

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I had an OEM leak, so ran an AVO for a while, but on a Perrin now and it works really well. Easier to fit than an AVO and I would expect it to last longer than OEM (but that might just be wishful thinking).

I'm also on a Perrin inlet w/ a Blouch turbo (stock inlet size). It's very tight and I couldn't imagine doing this without taking off the intake manifold.

 

I can't remember, but I may have upgraded to better clamps from the ones Perrin provides. Like Max is saying, clock the clamp so you have the ability to tighten it further if needed. Looking at the car from the front, I'd say the fastener is around 10-11 o' clock so you can snake an extension and socket from the top.

I've installed several aftermarket turbo inlets and none of them are fun. OE just works. The OE just falls in to place once you've unbolted the TGV from the manifold.

 

There is a torque spec for that clamp; 3nm. or 2.2 freedom units. Stop tearing the rubber!

Installing a Killer B inlet on my Legacy currently, but the intake manifold is off since I was doing TGVs as well. Will update once it's all on how the install finishes up. So far, the OD of the hard inlet should make fitting it much easier without pulling the intake manifold. Although the fittings that came with the inlet were a bit over sized so I purchased some different ones to fit my application better (boost solenoid and evap hose)

Intake will be coming apart. I’m just going to replace everything since I can’t remember what gaskets I skimped out on and what ones I replaced with oem.

Good deal, I would get new vacuum hose for everything around there wile you are at it, good time to delete TGV's , and add after market fpr, rails extera wile you have it apart.

 

I bought this

 

https://www.fastwrx.com/products/vibrant-silicone-vacuum-hose-kit

 

And some OEM stuff and PCV assembly and hoses

 

I'm pretty happy with the quality of the vibrant hose

 

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Good deal, I would get new vacuum hose for everything around there wile you are at it, good time to delete TGV's , and add after market fpr, rails extera wile you have it apart.

 

I bought this

 

https://www.fastwrx.com/products/vibrant-silicone-vacuum-hose-kit

 

And some OEM stuff and PCV assembly and hoses

 

I'm pretty happy with the quality of the vibrant hose

 

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Thanks for that link. I was just contemplating as to if I should throw some good sillycone hoses on but the last few kits I’ve installed on some other cars were sub par and I know some of them didn’t hold up. The fact that it’s vibrant however gives me hope.