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Brett_Dubs 2010 GT Build thread


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This thread is just to log the life of my car.

 

Purchased for $5,000 at 208K and driven home to Jersey from Massachusetts In September 2017.

 

Within the first year.

~Immediate purchase and installation of access-port.

~Black Leather/Red Plastic shift knob from 2018 STi installed

~Perrin shifter bushing, shift stop, steering steering dampener lock-down installed.

~Perrin TMIC to throttle body hose installed.

~Deleted clutch damper.

~Timing Belt, Water pump, and pulleys replaced at 210K.

~Replaced rusted turbo coolant pipes.

~Replaced with new coolant.

~Spark plugs replaced.

~Installed 2014 Legacy appearance package headlights.

 

Drove the car 8,000 miles from Jersey- Seattle- San Diego- Jersey

 

Within the last year.

~Wheel Bearing and CV Axle replaced.

~Cabin air filter replaced.

~Wrapped roof and chrome trim in black vinyl.

~Purchased Firestone's Lifetime Alignment.

~Replaced tires with Cooper RS3-G1 A/S tires.

~Koni inserts, 3.6R H&R lowering springs, and kyb mounts installed.

~Whiteline BSR49xz 22mm Adjustable RSB installed.

~Boomba short throw shift plate installed.

~Klearz clear turn signal lens installed.

~Turbosmart Kompact BPV installed.

~Fresh Trans Oil - Motul 300 Gear Oil

 

Invidia Catless downpipe has been polished but is waiting in my closet for tuning, catback, and turbo porting funds.

 

 

The car is currently at 235,000

Edited by Brett_dub
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This must nearly be one of the highest mileage GTs out there. Post up some pictures!

 

I was thinking the same thing lol.

 

You're not wasting any time on the mods. Good on you bro!!!

 

Thanks, I start a new job next week and that should open up the funding for my engine rebuild. Shes still running strong, but i cant justify putting it on the dyno with how much oil it consumes as it is.

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Shes still running strong, but i cant justify putting it on the dyno with how much oil it consumes as it is.

 

Have you tried changing the PCV valve? My Outback 2.5i seemed to be burning oil and replacing the PCV valve resolved my oil consumption.

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Have you tried changing the PCV valve? My Outback 2.5i seemed to be burning oil and replacing the PCV valve resolved my oil consumption.

 

I changed it back when I did the timing belt at 210k. I think I went through 8 or 9 quarts on my 8,000 mile road trip which was with 8k miles on the new pcv valve. There’s also a leak on the upper rear passenger side of the engine. I think it’s the scavenger pump that’s up there. It’s always been there, so I just keep an eye on the oil level all the time, and a 5 quart jug of oil in the back seat. I’m almost considering putting 5w40 in it at my next oil change.

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  • 1 month later...

Installed Hella horns and aftermarket front grille from eBay after the front wing portion of the grille flew off the car while on the turnpike.

 

I’ve recently been having issues with the brakes. The front in particular, and this could be from me neglecting to flush, change lines, or even do pads or rotors in the 30k miles I’ve put on the car. I downshift a lot and that has saved me some life, but a recent slamming of the brakes has caused issues on both sides of the front brakes. On the drivers side I had a seized slide pin( the lower one with the rubber piece), and the passenger side has a single seized piston that will not budge, no way no how. I needed an impact gun to break the slide pin free, and managed to replace that today. I have a rebuilt caliper on the way for the passenger side. I also purchased the Mach V red stainless brake lines specific to our legacy gt. Waiting impatiently like a kid on Christmas. Can anyone walk me through how to post pictures here from my iPhone?

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Going through the browser can be a pain, the site is pretty particular about upload sizes and formats. I usually have to resize pictures in MSPaint before I can get them to upload, although once in a blue moon one of them will upload at full resolution.
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Got around to installing the replacement calipers and new mach v brake lines in red. Did a full brake fluid flush using motul rbf600 dot 4 brake fluid. I went with Brembo ceramic pads, and so far I’m enjoying the new setup. I had the parking brake fail to release a few days before this which caused me to have to use the tools in the trunk to manually release the brake. Since then my brake light has been flashing consistently. Getting that to go away is my next project.
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I had the parking brake fail to release a few days before this which caused me to have to use the tools in the trunk to manually release the brake. Since then my brake light has been flashing consistently. Getting that to go away is my next project.

 

I wonder if that failure is related to the MT parking brake recall (that dealers don't have repair parts for yet)

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I wonder if that failure is related to the MT parking brake recall (that dealers don't have repair parts for yet)

 

I just saw the thread for that recall. I’ll have to contact my local dealership. Either way, replacement of the unit should cause them to correct the light while they are in there. I still need to get the airbag replaced as well.

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  • 2 weeks later...
Recall # is NHTSA ID 18V-626

 

Good on you for this build thread, glad to see that people are picking up these older cars and giving them the love that they deserve. Kind of missing my old girl from time to time :icon_sad:

 

Thanks man, it’s definitely the perfect sleeper which is exactly what I was looking for.

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  • 1 year later...

Well, time to update. Started my engine replacement back in April and just got it back in the car a couple weeks ago. Project began after a bad misfire developed from burnt exhaust valves

 

New Short block

Replaced stock pistons with Manley pistons

Heads rebuilt by HeadGames Motorwerks

Brian Crower Spring kit

Brian Crower Intake and Exhaust Valves

Bronze Valve Guides

OEM 2012 STi Intake and Exhaust cams

New OEM Oil pump and Scavenger Pump

 

New BNR 18G Turbo

Cobb 1050x Injectors

 

TSK-03 Snout Repair Sleeve and Throwout Bearing

Versus Forged Clutch Fork and Pivot Ball

ACT SB11-HDSS Kit w/ Lightweight Flywheel

 

Breaking in the car on a Precision Tuning Base Map

Dyno Tune to follow after clutch and engine have been broken in.

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  • 2 weeks later...
Well, time to update. Started my engine replacement back in April and just got it back in the car a couple weeks ago. Project began after a bad misfire developed from burnt exhaust valves

 

Just curious, how long did she last? I just purchased a 2010 with 160k on the dial.

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I wasn’t too worried about mileage when I got it. It was driven a lot, so I assumed highway miles(208k in 7 years is about 30k a year). I drove it like I stole it for another 40k and hadn’t addressed major oil consumption issues knowing a rebuild would come. I ended up overheating the car at 248k and cracked an exhaust valve. Right up until the overheating it ran great.
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After working on an issue with oil getting into the turbo, I noticed another issue. The cars idle would jump all over the place if I didn’t have my foot on the gas. I ended up smoke testing the intake system and found a leak at the rear of the passenger side tgv (under the small cover held in by two philips head screws). I ordered and installed a set of IAG Tgv deletes, and will hopefully have the car running right after receiving the updated base map.
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  • 1 month later...
After deleting the tgvs, the idle was still wonky. I dropped the car off at my tuner to have a look at it while they resealed the oil pan and replaced the front sway bar (I messed up and installed the 3.6r 26mm instead of the 2.5 26mm). They replaced an o2 sensor that was causing the weird idle, but also noticed that the avcs on the RH exhaust cam was sticking. I drove the car home and replaced both the avcs solenoid and camshaft sprocket on the passenger side exhaust can. The car is now running well. I’ve logged about 60miles of city driving so far, but have to wait 300-500 miles for the clutch/engine to break in before it sees the dyno.
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