What did you do to your 4th gen. Legacy today? Vol - 10

Had fuel trims pull up to the +10-15% range after a long cruise on the highway. No miss, no roughness though. Thought, great, something melted or cracked. Boost leak tested the car, held 15 psi. Replaced all the vacuum lines anyways, because I've had a few of the silicone ones I used when putting the motor together randomly split a couple of times. No change, though I didn't expect one. Swapped spare MAF, no change. Factory O2 matches wideband, so not that.

 

This might be a lesson in not installing used injectors without cleaning/testing. Got them from a good friend with only 10k on them so installed them as-is, but it's possible one of them has decided to start dying, especially having recently run a few tanks of E85 through the car working on a tune.

 

Trying to decide whether I should track down another set of ID1000s, eat the downtime and just have these serviced, or get into a set of newer ID1050x. On the last option, any of you Opensource guys find a solution for the lack of min pulse width tables in our ROMs?

 

Open to other suggestions as well!

 

This car makes me feel like

 

If you're interested in helping the little guy; Evolved Injection in Duluth, Ga sells great custom injectors. I got a set off 1000's for less than 500 new. Great dude, as well. He mostly does big 2jz drift type stuff but a few Subie guys swear by him. They're basically unbranded Bosch.

 

Sent from my LM-V405 using Tapatalk

Removed the front seats to vacuum up 2 years of Golden Retriever hair/coins/rogue fries. Good to know that is a very easy process for our cars

Removed the front seats to vacuum up 2 years of Golden Retriever hair/coins/rogue fries. Good to know that is a very easy process for our cars

 

What'd you do with the fries? Asking for a friend.

Have to believe they were given to the golden retriever.

Tried to swap out the knock sensor last night...

It wanted none of that, was probably up to 300 ft lbs and still couldn't break it lose.

PB Blaster and 2ft breaker bar.

I didn't want to shear the bolt and have to remove the intake to fix, so I had to give up and put it back together.

Then this morning went to leave and found out that I forgot to plug the knock sensor back in.

So off with the engine cover and TMIC to plug it in, then back together again

I can do that in 15 min now... Not sure that's a good thing.

Tried to swap out the knock sensor last night...

It wanted none of that, was probably up to 300 ft lbs and still couldn't break it lose.

PB Blaster and 2ft breaker bar.

I didn't want to shear the bolt and have to remove the intake to fix, so I had to give up and put it back together.

Then this morning went to leave and found out that I forgot to plug the knock sensor back in.

So off with the engine cover and TMIC to plug it in, then back together again

I can do that in 15 min now... Not sure that's a good thing.

 

When I replaced the one in my 05 GT I bought a special set of sockets so I didn't have to remove anything around it, luckily it came out without that much force needed, just a 3/8 ratchet and some good muscle power

When I replaced the one in my 05 GT I bought a special set of sockets so I didn't have to remove anything around it, luckily it came out without that much force needed, just a 3/8 ratchet and some good muscle power

 

Yeah, I have a crows foot socket so I can offset the extension and not have to remove the intake manifold... I just think it's never been removed and is really stuck good right now.

 

I'll go back after it at a later time when I can afford the down time if I do shear the bolt trying to get it out.

Drove it to work today and had to remember to avoid BoozeRS05's spec b that I picked up this weekend and is now parked in front of the house. Looking forward to stripping it down and spec'in out the wagon after what was probably the most horrible weekend trip I've ever had in my life, logistically speaking. Meeting and chatting with Eric was a great time but everything else about that trip was just pure garbage and I won't be driving across state lines for a parts car anytime soon again.

Reached out to John (JMP) to have a VF40 rebuilt, waiting for a reply.

Drove the GT wagon for the first time in about a month. I think the lean condition I had last I drove it was due to the vacuum line to the fuel pressure regulator popping off. Makes sense and after 70 miles no CEL.

Also some rear end noise has been fixed, which I think was mainly due to me re-torquing the trailing arms at ride height. I made the mistake of initially torquing them at full droop after replacing bushings over a year ago.

 

I love this car. It looks so much better than so many massive SUV's everyone else drives. Also all the sound deadening I did, makes the car whisper quiet on the highway, love it.

 

Lastly, I had WRX seats in the 96 outback that I sent to the great junkyard in the sky, but I kept them and now they are being made into office chairs

Also I had WRX seats in the 96 outback that I sent to the great junkyard in the sky, but I kept them and now they are being made into office chairs

 

That’s brilliant!

PS pump o-ring update complete, hopefully no more seepage.

 

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

Brought it up to 65ish miles and did the first break-in oil change. Motor is running wonderfully so it seems, so good news there.

 

On the less fortunate side, I've clearly got a nasty power steering leak. Reservoir is empty after getting back from the drive today. Tiny puddle under where the car was parked, but while under doing the oil change, I couldn't pinpoint where the leak was coming from definitively. I see drops on the RH CV boot, but no obvious leak on the lines. I suspect it's only leaking under pressure, so I might need a hand from a neighbor to help me check by turning the wheel while I'm under the car inspecting the lines. Hoping it's not much more than just the coupling fitting not being tight enough, but I thought I tightened them plenty when I swapped the rack.

 

edit: Just took a look at the logs I took during the driving today. Mostly normal, except towards the tail end of my first drive, the LH AVCS seemed to oscillate. Unfortunately wasn't logging that on my drive back (logged with laptop with RR on first drive, and phone with BtSSM on second drive), so I'll have to keep an eye on it. Maybe I should just proactively replace the OCVs (or at least clean them).

 

 

First drive (second log in this shows the VVT oscillation):

 

https://datazap.me/u/solidxsnake/break-2?log=0&data=2

 

 

Second drive:

 

https://datazap.me/u/solidxsnake/break-3?log=0&data=3-12

Edited July 1, 2020 by solidxsnake

Reached out to John (JMP) to have a VF40 rebuilt, waiting for a reply.

 

I have a JMP VF40 sitting on my bench from my car. It has about 65k on it. I recently replaced it with a JMP VF52.

 

I believe it is in good shape and had no spooling issues. My issue was smoke at idle and smoke show at WOT. The mechanic never did the basic diagnostics of compression and leakdown test. He had a hunch it was the valves.

 

Heads were re-machined, kept stock block and replaced lots of other parts, turbo, hoses, oilpan....clutch, engine mounts.. It is running great .

 

So we never performed diagnostics on the turbo itself to see if hot side seal contributed to the smoke.

 

if interested let me know.

Brought it up to 65ish miles and did the first break-in oil change. Motor is running wonderfully so it seems, so good news there.

 

On the less fortunate side, I've clearly got a nasty power steering leak. Reservoir is empty after getting back from the drive today. Tiny puddle under where the car was parked, but while under doing the oil change, I couldn't pinpoint where the leak was coming from definitively. I see drops on the RH CV boot, but no obvious leak on the lines. I suspect it's only leaking under pressure, so I might need a hand from a neighbor to help me check by turning the wheel while I'm under the car inspecting the lines. Hoping it's not much more than just the coupling fitting not being tight enough, but I thought I tightened them plenty when I swapped the rack.

 

edit: Just took a look at the logs I took during the driving today. Mostly normal, except towards the tail end of my first drive, the LH AVCS seemed to oscillate. Unfortunately wasn't logging that on my drive back (logged with laptop with RR on first drive, and phone with BtSSM on second drive), so I'll have to keep an eye on it. Maybe I should just proactively replace the OCVs (or at least clean them).

 

 

First drive (second log in this shows the VVT oscillation):

 

https://datazap.me/u/solidxsnake/break-2?log=0&data=2

 

 

Second drive:

 

https://datazap.me/u/solidxsnake/break-3?log=0&data=3-12

 

 

The OCVs seemed in sync once warm, they were pretty far apart when cool.

If you do replace them, go OEM; too many stories of aftermarket screwing up in short order.

Also, seems that most cleaning just buys a little time; which might be just the ticket depending on your needs.

There is a similar issue with 2001+ Miata's where the variable valve timing tends to fail and cause a P0012 fault (timing over retarded). This often happens with startup / shutdown driving like going to garage sales (which is far more of a strain on the engine than ordinary stop / go driving). Usually an oil change solves the problem due to a fresh influx of detergent.

 

In your case, I would change the oil and see if that relieves the problem.

 

I did have a failure of one of the pressure switches for the Subaru variable valve lift - it prevented me from using cruise control but there were no other symptoms. I replaced the switch with one from Subaru and all has been well since then. I don't know why there are separate switches for the left and right bank - maybe the electrical outputs could be paralleled.

The OCVs seemed in sync once warm, they were pretty far apart when cool.

If you do replace them, go OEM; too many stories of aftermarket screwing up in short order.

Also, seems that most cleaning just buys a little time; which might be just the ticket depending on your needs.

 

 

There is a similar issue with 2001+ Miata's where the variable valve timing tends to fail and cause a P0012 fault (timing over retarded). This often happens with startup / shutdown driving like going to garage sales (which is far more of a strain on the engine than ordinary stop / go driving). Usually an oil change solves the problem due to a fresh influx of detergent.

 

In your case, I would change the oil and see if that relieves the problem.

 

I did have a failure of one of the pressure switches for the Subaru variable valve lift - it prevented me from using cruise control but there were no other symptoms. I replaced the switch with one from Subaru and all has been well since then. I don't know why there are separate switches for the left and right bank - maybe the electrical outputs could be paralleled.

 

Not exactly in sync when warmed, shown in the second log in the first link (here, for convenience: https://datazap.me/u/solidxsnake/break-2?log=1&data=2-15-16)

 

They were in sync until the LH side started oscillating, seemingly randomly.

 

Not too worried about it for now, but will keep an eye on it as I continue the break-in. Definitely going OEM if I decide to replace them.

Not exactly in sync when warmed, shown in the second log in the first link (here, for convenience: https://datazap.me/u/solidxsnake/break-2?log=1&data=2-15-16)

 

They were in sync until the LH side started oscillating, seemingly randomly.

 

Not too worried about it for now, but will keep an eye on it as I continue the break-in. Definitely going OEM if I decide to replace them.

 

I wouldn't sit on them too long if it's starting to have trouble holding.

Pulled the rear coilovers out today because I was getting some odd noises from the rear suspension over big bumps. Upon inspection, the springs were bowed (in an arc rather than straight) and hitting the dust shield on one side. Looks like my top hats aren't sitting straight, but I can't figure out how KW expects that to be controlled. Called them, emailed some photos back and forth, and they just told me the top hat should be sitting in their purple spring seat further, which is impossible. Any thoughts?

Edited July 1, 2020 by Chocoholic005

Having the same issue. At first I left the rubber spring seat in place which caused even bigger problems, the spring actually started contacting the body of the shock tube.

 

I'm not hearing any noises now after removing the rubber seat, but I agree the tophats do not seat solidly into the KW top seat. Tempted to go aftermarket Cusco or similar rear tophats.

 

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

Pulled the rear coilovers out today because I was getting some odd noises from the rear suspension over big bumps. Upon inspection, the springs were bowed (in an arc rather than straight) and hitting the dust shield on one side. Looks like my top hats aren't sitting straight, but I can't figure out how KW expects that to be controlled. Called them, emailed some photos back and forth, and they just told me the top hat should be sitting in their purple spring seat further, which is impossible. Any thoughts?

You shouldn't have to with the price you pay for the setup but could make the opening larger with a dremel?

Pulled the rear coilovers out today because I was getting some odd noises from the rear suspension over big bumps. Upon inspection, the springs were bowed (in an arc rather than straight) and hitting the dust shield on one side. Looks like my top hats aren't sitting straight, but I can't figure out how KW expects that to be controlled. Called them, emailed some photos back and forth, and they just told me the top hat should be sitting in their purple spring seat further, which is impossible. Any thoughts?

 

Is the purple spring seat tapered, could it be upside down?

I have a JMP VF40 sitting on my bench from my car. It has about 65k on it. I recently replaced it with a JMP VF52.

 

I believe it is in good shape and had no spooling issues. My issue was smoke at idle and smoke show at WOT. The mechanic never did the basic diagnostics of compression and leakdown test. He had a hunch it was the valves.

 

Heads were re-machined, kept stock block and replaced lots of other parts, turbo, hoses, oilpan....clutch, engine mounts.. It is running great .

 

So we never performed diagnostics on the turbo itself to see if hot side seal contributed to the smoke.

 

if interested let me know.

 

Thx for the offer, I'm going to go with a fresh rebuild probably like John uses in his GT.

Having the same issue. At first I left the rubber spring seat in place which caused even bigger problems, the spring actually started contacting the body of the shock tube.

 

I'm not hearing any noises now after removing the rubber seat, but I agree the tophats do not seat solidly into the KW top seat. Tempted to go aftermarket Cusco or similar rear tophats.

 

That's a concern; KW has been making this system for like 15 years, I find it hard to believe there would be such a major flaw without them noticing.

 

Is the purple spring seat tapered, could it be upside down?

 

Nope, the top side is cupped and the bottom flat to match the spring. Can't flip flop it.

Is it the wrong kind of top hat? Aren’t you supposed to use Spec B hats? Or is that just front?

 

I still need to put the new Fortunes on my wagon. They’ve been in the parts cabinet since January. Been spending to much time wrenching on the Celica.

 

Took the family and wagon out for burgers and root beer floats last weekend. Wagon needs a detail.

 

Edited July 2, 2020 by Gex