What did you do to your 4th gen. Legacy today? Vol - 10

Thinking about selling off some parts. I'm realizing certain things, like the black upper interior, are not going to happen any time soon.

Also going to look at an e30 to turn into a rallyx/stage rally car later today. Can't decide if it's more worth it to get my racing fix or to hold hard ish to find parts.

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I had the same white 'dust' on my dash last winter while it was garaged the whole time since I was working on it. I thought it was general dust from me working on the underside in a closed garage for months but now maybe not....at least 05 doesn't have sticky dash issues!

Same here. I still have SEM plastic paint leftover from a previous project that I will use to recover this dash. I had an '08 sticky dash which I had fixed up but then the dash started cracking. I'll be sticking with the '05.

I was convinced it was the sticky dash everyone talks about and I'd be screwed, but I just checked and it looks fine. Pretty damn good actually.

Changed out the o-ring for the power steering pump, and cleaned up the pump as well as I could. Looks like it went well with the first o-ring. I set the torque wrench to 29.5 ft-lb but the bolt was making some sounds before the torque wrench clicked so I stopped there.

SC

Also going to look at an e30 to turn into a rallyx/stage rally car later today. Can't decide if it's more worth it to get my racing fix or to hold hard ish to find parts.

Racing fix, absolutely no question about it. Way more fun than some cloth or plastic bits that are only noteworthy because there aren't that many of them.

Racing fix, absolutely no question about it. Way more fun than some cloth or plastic bits that are only noteworthy because there aren't that many of them.

Well the e30 had parts on it I'd want to swap in, a full extra set of wheels with summer tires and spare, and the engine seemed right. He knew the compression was good if not the numbers. He could have been lying but he bought it from one of the mechanics at the bmw dealer he works at. On top of that he came down to 2k.

I'm going to have to pull everything out and gets pictures but that means stuff is going for sale. Hopefully I can get them tomorrow because I'll need that money back.

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Thinking about selling off some parts. I'm realizing certain things, like the black upper interior, are not going to happen any time soon.

 

Also going to look at an e30 to turn into a rallyx/stage rally car later today. Can't decide if it's more worth it to get my racing fix or to hold hard ish to find parts.

 

 

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Meanwhile, I'm headed to pick up an '86 FC RX-7 shell Saturday evening for a future LS swap. I might have to slow down on the wagon, myself.

My best friend gifted me some Hella Sharptones for Christmas. I bought some years ago, but gave them to him for Christmas because there was a transmission cooling line, or some sort of line, in the way of where the mounting bracket would go (3.0R).

 

TLDR I might drop them off with the wheels to get powder coated in gunmetal.

low-temp powder coating? like the aero (boeing) system? or bob's backyard bbq and powdercoat? There's some folklore about low-temp being better for wheels. ymmv.

I think I mentioned getting my SSRs powder coated and Latent Wagon said it would be bad for them since they were cast forged, and the baking process would be bad for the metal structure.

Perhaps for fully forged wheels it would be ok to do a regular temperature powder coating.

SC

I think I mentioned getting my SSRs powder coated and Latent Wagon said it would be bad for them since they were cast forged, and the baking process would be bad for the metal structure.

 

Perhaps for fully forged wheels it would be ok to do a regular temperature powder coating.

 

SC

Thank you for your input, it is much appreciated. All is heavily considered when my babies are on the line. I'd hate to make a simple mistake. How did you go about painting/coating your SSRs?

Latent Wagon said it would be bad for them since they were cast forged

I'm pretty sure cast forged isn't a thing.

The effects of powder coating on wheels is up for some debate, but ultimately it comes down to the material itself, not whether its cast or forged. The potential for the baking process to alter the properties of the metal is wholly dependent on what processes the wheel has already been through, and what type of alloy it is made out of. The only way to know for sure is by contacting the manufacturer of the wheel and asking. That being said, the ~350-400 degrees that powder coating requires isn't very high in the grand scheme of things, and its not like you're quenching the wheels when you pull them out in an attempt to harden the metal. I highly doubt you'd have an issue.

Not so much a work done with the outback today, but thanks to help from a bunch of people on this forum, I have a really solid and wonderful to drive vehicle. Which allowed me to feel confident to do this.

Some stuff on the outback will take a back seat while I work on the e30. But it's nice to have a second car. No worries of something going wrong with either really, since they both drive.

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Welp, starting my Saturday off at 7:15am I decided to head to the shop and try to knock out a laundry list of things, including:

- disable DRLs

- bushings (in the rear at a minimum)

- LGT UCAs

- oil change/air filter

- cabin air filter

- adjusting coilovers

- wash, wax, vacuum

- align

I got started on the list at 8am beginning with bushings, which totally kicked my rear. This shop lacked a bunch of necessary tools needed to assist, including basic press accessories. Absolute PITA. After wasting a couple hours taking off/on, and pressing, I ended up just doing the toe arms. I'll revisit the others another day. I couldn't loosen the most inward bolt for the OB UCAs without stripping it. Frustrating.

I walked out of the shop having just changed my oil, installing poly bushings on the toe arms, and lowering the car another inch, to take out some atrocious wheel gap.

I ended up discovering 2 new codes to my already existing PO171. It's always something. I'm all ears.

Finally threw in the towel early afternoon, and went to go pick up a car I've been looking for the last 7yrs. I, too, came home with another car today. It is a 1986 Mazda FC RX-7. A Series 5 would have been ideal, but this one will do just perfect. I took an 1.5hr trip, and picked up this....non-rolling shell (it was quite the night, let me tell you)... for $400. I will be working over the next [insert appropriate time here] to put an LS3 in this bad Larry. I only want to do heads/cams for I want to enjoy the car on the weekends and take it the occasional track-day. This is a massive undertaking, and I fully anticipate hundreds of long, frustrating hours.

With a lot of those bolts in the suspension, if I can do it without damaging anything, I've started using the torch before I put anything on it. Pb blaster, let dry, torch, quench with pb blaster. And 6 point sockets only.

I entertained the idea of an rx7 for a while but I'd really want to keep the rotary engine.

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Welp, starting my Saturday off at 7:15am I decided to head to the shop and try to knock out a laundry list of things, including:

 

 

 

- disable DRLs

 

- bushings (in the rear at a minimum)

 

- LGT UCAs

 

- oil change/air filter

 

- cabin air filter

 

- adjusting coilovers

 

- wash, wax, vacuum

 

- align

 

 

 

I got started on the list at 8am beginning with bushings, which totally kicked my rear. This shop lacked a bunch of necessary tools needed to assist, including basic press accessories. Absolute PITA. After wasting a couple hours taking off/on, and pressing, I ended up just doing the toe arms. I'll revisit the others another day. I couldn't loosen the most inward bolt for the OB UCAs without stripping it. Frustrating.

 

 

 

I walked out of the shop having just changed my oil, installing poly bushings on the toe arms, and lowering the car another inch, to take out some atrocious wheel gap.

 

 

 

I ended up discovering 2 new codes to my already existing PO171. It's always something. I'm all ears.

 

 

 

Finally threw in the towel early afternoon, and went to go pick up a car I've been looking for the last 7yrs. I, too, came home with another car today. It is a 1986 Mazda FC RX-7. A Series 5 would have been ideal, but this one will do just perfect. I took an 1.5hr trip, and picked up this....non-rolling shell (it was quite the night, let me tell you)... for $400. I will be working over the next [insert appropriate time here] to put an LS3 in this bad Larry. I only want to do heads/cams for I want to enjoy the car on the weekends and take it the occasional track-day. This is a massive undertaking, and I fully anticipate hundreds of long, frustrating hours.

All three of your codes might be from the wiring at the MAF or the MAF itself. The pins at the connector from the harness side are common to loosen. You can also swap a known good MAF and test.

If you need an maf I have a working but used one. Unknown mileage. I'd guess it's original so 160k but I swapped it preventative before we started tuning.

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With a lot of those bolts in the suspension, if I can do it without damaging anything, I've started using the torch before I put anything on it. Pb blaster, let dry, torch, quench with pb blaster. And 6 point sockets only.

 

I entertained the idea of an rx7 for a while but I'd really want to keep the rotary engine.

I would reallyyyy like to own a rotary too. But I'll save that for the FD I get one day.

I asked for a torch. They didn't seem to have one. I soaked it in PB blaster, but I'll just use more next time I'm under there. And this place only had 12pt sockets. WACK! So I used my own tools for the most part. I was so fed up yesterday morning. I will attempt your methods of madness next time.

All three of your codes might be from the wiring at the MAF or the MAF itself. The pins at the connector from the harness side are common to loosen. You can also swap a known good MAF and test.

Thank you. I tried cleaning it and I replaced it a long time ago. I'll check the connectors on the harness.

If you need an maf I have a working but used one. Unknown mileage. I'd guess it's original so 160k but I swapped it preventative before we started tuning.

I appreciate the offer! But I will let you keep your maf. Headed out to do some more diagnosing.

The only rent a stall repair shop around here closed a few years ago which is a huge bummer. I really don't have space to work. If we had a place like that, I wouldn't be so hell bent on the next place having a garage.

I can't take credit for the method! I pulled it from covertrussian (not that it's really a trade secret) on his rear sway bar install guide. After so many days of hurting elbows and weird soreness, I go straight to big breaker bars, 6 point sockets, and anything to free the bolts!

Good luck with the diagnosis!

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Yay! My turn! Any advise for the left side line??? Any really route the replacement the same exact way???

Scotty

No way to really route it factory without dropping the tank, to my eye.

Sounds to me like it's time to completely restore the entire vehicle!

Sounds to me like it's time to completely restore the entire vehicle!

Scotty

So I removed my valve covers and cleaned then installed new gaskets waited almost 45 hours for the grey sealer to fully cure only needed 24 hours but I gave it more time no more valve cover gasket leaks

But I have a other leak dripping in the exhaust while under boost that I can't find

Got my Aisin timing belt kit w/pump, got a new AEM dry flow to replace Cobb filter, Got Amsoil Coolant, breakin oil and EAO filter.

Still need to send my injector off to get flow checked and cleaned. I will be set for my build date.

Started my bad girl up yesterday, fired right up, belted out few puffs of smoke, car still has life. Can't wait to get her all buttoned up.

Sounds to me like it's time to completely restore the entire vehicle!

Bahaha don't tempt me