What did you do to your 4th gen. Legacy today? Vol - 10

Pre-Meet will be taking place at 9:00am Sunday, October 10, 2021 at Starbucks (address above). We will head out about 9:30 to DirtFish Rally School for Wagonfest. Time of arrival will be around 10:30 which will give 30mins to find parking before the event starts.

Please share this via Facebook, instagram, [insert social media here]. Not restricted to BPs, but you'll be outnumbered.

Looking forward to seeing old and meeting new!

Get Wagonfest tickets here: https://www.avants.com/events/2021/10-10/wagonfest-2021

Thanks for organizing that Febreze Mee!

Now to decide if I put on the winters for the trip over.

Hey people,

I've been chasing a front end clunk/knock. It comes and goes but feels like a knocking sensation around the pedal box and you can feel it in the steering wheel as a slight thud. Taken the car to my trusty mechanic a few times with no luck. It's kinda prominent when on an incline or turning. I back into my driveway which is on a very very minor incline.

I have a Whiteline sway bar. The end links were rubbing and so those were dealt with. I have new front LCA bushings. I haven't got an idea. Steering wheel bushing maybe? I've also checked to see if the brake pads in my Brembos are sliding around.

Hey people,

I've been chasing a front end clunk/knock. It comes and goes but feels like a knocking sensation around the pedal box and you can feel it in the steering wheel as a slight thud. Taken the car to my trusty mechanic a few times with no luck. It's kinda prominent when on an incline or turning. I back into my driveway which is on a very very minor incline.

I have a Whiteline sway bar. The end links were rubbing and so those were dealt with. I have new front LCA bushings. I haven't got an idea. Steering wheel bushing maybe? I've also checked to see if the brake pads in my Brembos are sliding around.

Ball joint, motor mount, pitch stop, tranny mounts?? I had same issue. Finally it was right ball joint.

I’ve been debating if it’s worth it for the Odyssey or Optima batteries. I feel like I’m going to regret getting a cheap battery but buying a $300 battery isn’t the most appealing right now either.

 

 

 

 

Ive owned a lot of Everstarts over the years but I’ve had bad luck with the latest Everstarts in my truck. I warrantied at least two of them in a year before I got a good one. Same with the ‘Interstates’ that Costco sells. I got two duds before I got one that has latest awhile now. I feel like there’s some really crappy batteries out there now.

Oh dear, sorry to hear you had issues with big name brand batteries, As you know Interstate has been a big manufacture of great batteries for years. That was my back up if I had problems with Maxx Everstarts. All mine are over 3 years old by now.

Over on the Outback forum there is a thread about batteries too. They also don't recommend Optima's any more either.

Lot's of junk parts being made now...

I had dual Walmart batteries in my last truck that were in it when I bought the truck and still going strong when I sold it 10 yrs later. Not bad, especially in a diesel in the northeast.

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Oh dear, sorry to hear you had issues with big name brand batteries, As you know Interstate has been a big manufacture of great batteries for years. That was my back up if I had problems with Maxx Everstarts. All mine are over 3 years old by now.

 

Over on the Outback forum there is a thread about batteries too. They also don't recommend Optima's any more either.

 

Lot's of junk parts being made now...

I don't think the 'Interstate' batteries at Costco are real Interstates. I think they're just branded as such. They have a black case with an Interstate sticker on them.

The real green top, white case Interstate I have in my boat is awesome. I'm having trouble finding where to buy a real one for my Subaru though.

I've definitely noticed a decline in parts, especially in the past few years. It's one thing to buy a cheap part and its another to buy an OEM or equivalent and have it be junk.

Seems like a repeating trend over the last few decades. Make a thing, find a way to make it cheaper. Start making new things, find ways to make older stuff cheaper.

Ordered new lift gate struts for the wagon. I'm assuming the ones on there now are oem and lasted about 17 years. Unless they were replaced sometime around year 8 when I picked up the car. I think if these last 5 years I'll be happy.

Also going to try to replace the stock shifter linkage with the turn in concepts one I bought a few weeks ago. Happy to have reason to buy from them again. Currently have the turkeylord tee and fu cam bolts.

Picked up a flare of lead and copper in my last UOA, 20k on build. Happened to be the latest OCI in a sequence testing how long I can stretch it on E85. 1800 miles on Motul Xcess 10W40 when this happened. Interestingly enough, I've sent in an 1800 mile sample w/ similar driving style that came back looking good, with Amsoil Euro blend 10W40.

Need to do some more assessment before I decide whether to run these for another interval and re-analyze for science, or split the block and re-bearing the thing right now. No change in oil pressure and no bad noises, so I'm inclined to run it if I don't find any play in the rod bearings thru the plug holes. The UOA did pick up 1 ppm of nickel, which could be either an alloying element in some metal that came off the crank (there was a bit of iron too), or it could be the layer in a bearing between the surface babbit and the main bearing layer. The former seems more likely since it's just a trace, but waiting on a call back from one of the graybeards at King to get his thoughts.

On the plus side, one of the materials guys at work is going to show me how to do my own UOAs, which should be pretty neat. Kinda wondering if I should take tiny bit off of an old crank and see the ratio of iron to nickel in the steel.

Did the oil change, installed new low beam bulbs (drivers side went out yesterday), spiffed up the yellow caps in the engine bay, and put an ounce or two in to the power steering.

SC

Automotive clickbait King Scotty Kilmer had a video about AGM batteries, and it seems that Optima cheaped out and moved their factory to Mexico and that's when their batteries turned to crap.

SC

one week to wagonfest. Working on removing the wine rack from the rear. House flooded and thought the wine would only be there temporary.

Visited Kip's track wagon. A cage in a street driven wagon?

one week to wagonfest. Working on removing the wine rack from the rear. House flooded and thought the wine would only be there temporary.

 

Visited Kip's track wagon. A cage in a street driven wagon?

Helmet must be worn at all times.

Drove her today 1st time in a few weeks.

Wife is on me to sell her, I have a 71 Alfa Romeo GTV I'm restoring and she's on my a**,

tough decision to be made soon. Alfa's not going anywhere so it will probably have to go.

My wagon is a 9 out of 10 exterior and interior so it should go quickly if someone wants a stg1 with no power mods. Someone talk me into getting divorced instead, Lol

Divorce isn't bad....lol. Life is better this time around, that is for sure.

Decisions like that are tough. Sorry you have to go through that.

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https://offerup.com/item/detail/1283609065?q=2008+subaru+legacy&cid=5.1

Just posted this

Replaced my knock sensor again.. this time with a Subaru OE unit.

I know.

I SAID I KNOW.

Anyway, checked the boost control hoses since I was digging around and the one that houses the pill was a bit crusty. It’s been having no trouble running 10-11 under load and peaking at 12 in 5th, but I touched the line and I’ll be damned if it didn’t just disintegrate.

Well.. I had a one-step-smaller restrictor pill in a new line from my old ‘06 so I just plugged it in and went for a test drive to verify the knock sensor was functioning again.

No codes.

Interestingly, 4stroke (WiFi ELM iPhone app) said I was nailing 13psi and peaking at 14 in 5th, and averaging 11-12 psi under load.

Previously, same test loop same conditions same high load spots it peaked at 12 and averaged 10-11 under load.

I know I should be concerned about head gaskets since this turd has 187,000 miles on it.. how likely am I to make it go bang on 14psi of occasional momentary boost and more sustained 12 psi with some 13psi mixed in?

It sure feels a lot gooder.

It’ll feel even gooder with new spark plugs. Pretty sure the ones in it have been there since 2004 when it was built. [emoji33]

Oh.. I did a full high-zoot all Japanese roller, belt. Aisin water pump and OE thermostat a couple months ago. I do have a swelling and slightly leaky turbo cooler line, but the temp gauge stays rock solid just under the middle. OBD says temp fluctuates between 180 and 195 like clockwork.

SO FAR.

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Also.. will I be able to datalog knock, etc even if I have “the wrong VAGCOM cable?”

I’d like to know more about what the engine is doing. [emoji2369]

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Ball joint, motor mount, pitch stop, tranny mounts?? I had same issue. Finally it was right ball joint.

Ball joints are fine, I did the pitch stop a year ago unless it came loose...?

I'm guessing it's the steering rack bushings.

Drove her today 1st time in a few weeks.

 

Wife is on me to sell her, I have a 71 Alfa Romeo GTV I'm restoring and she's on my a**,

tough decision to be made soon. Alfa's not going anywhere so it will probably have to go.

My wagon is a 9 out of 10 exterior and interior so it should go quickly if someone wants a stg1 with no power mods. Someone talk me into getting divorced instead, Lol

A colleague of mine once offered me his wife for $5000 because she somehow managed to bend the left front wheel of his then new Alfa Romeo GTV. (This was in 1971.) If your wife is on to you to sell her, see what kind of offers you get for her from someone willing to pad out his harem.

Ball joints are fine, I did the pitch stop a year ago unless it came loose...?

I'm guessing it's the steering rack bushings.

Or the steering knuckle, the rubber damper must be disintegrating.

Automotive clickbait King Scotty Kilmer had a video about AGM batteries, and it seems that Optima cheaped out and moved their factory to Mexico and that's when their batteries turned to crap.

 

SC

I have been using XS power batteries. I have a large one installed on one of my cars. It's barely 3 years old and I think it has failed already. it is also an AGM battery. After doing some research, I believe the issue is heat. They do not like too much heat. There's a safety valve on these that would release some gas if they get too hot. But if they do, they would no longer hold a strong charge anymore. I think that is what is happening at least in my case specially with the heat in southern Utah.

I've been able to fully charge it, but even with a full charge the engine cranks slow. Whereas in the '06, I installed a much smaller XS power battery and that engine cranks so fast. I should install a heat shield on it so it won't prematurely fail.

Threw on mAdrig's CF extended hood scoop. Installed the front bumper guard (silver piece; 57734). Topped of PS fluid. Replaced missing clips in the engine bay.

New clips, such a good feeling. Just ordered new intake duct clips (among a few other bits), $7.72 each here in the Great White North.