CovertRussian's 2012 Outback 2.5i 6MT Build

Right they are trying to pass it off as a non regular maintenance item. I really don't know why the industry decided to go that route (besides charging 5x the replacement and labor cost). The real issue is getting stranded somewhere because of a clogged fuel filter and the pump burning out.

 

The reason I started researching mine, I heard weird whining noise from the rear, it's like the fuel pump was struggling. I was 3 hours from home, after I got home it stopped making noise. So I've put it off for a few weeks. The fuel between the pump and filter is real dirty though, I'll post some pictures after I replace it.

 

What's the part number for WIX filter? I don't see it on rockauto, just wanna see it's design.

 

Mind snapping a picture of the secondary filter? That's the PZEV related filter, I'm curious what it looks like.

Yup, I agree. That's a terrible predicament that could be easily prevented if it were just a basic maintenance item that's easily accessible. It's one of the last things I would have thought of had you not mentioned it.

 

Wix part number is #49012.

 

I'll get a picture of that secondary panel filter. It almost looks built-in, or at least not very easy to remove at first glance. I can't remember if my parents' '05 Legacy has the same. I couldn't find any pictures of it online either.

 

edit: I found some threads about it on the subaruoutback forum. I detest visiting that forum (and all Autoguide sponsored ones) if all possible. Looks like yahoomail and photobucket had a mutant baby with even more resource hogging ads.

 

Sounds like carbon impregnated media, not meant to be replaced, even though carbon filtration loses its effectiveness once its pores are saturated. The heck. Nice thought though, to prevent unburnt fuel from evaporating out of the intake path.

 

No part number, but here it is. Also found a thread here talking about it.

Edited September 6, 2017 by ToRealEyes

That WIX filter seems similar enough to stock (pleat and restriction wise).

 

Yeah that carbon filter is there to stop fuel vapors from escaping into atmosphere through the intake (GTEASER's link explained that one). I'm willing to bet that carbon filter is what's causing most of those restrictions then.

 

If you want to play with something, pick up a stock airbox from a non PZEV version and see how it runs. It might help with power and gas mileage actually. Edit: Looks like gains are fairly minimal, mostly better throttle reponse.

Edited September 7, 2017 by covertrussian

Yep, I pulled this section of the intake off the car tonight to take a look again. Overall not too difficult to remove. I'll get some A/F and vacuum numbers when I get a chance. I think we've had our share of butt dyno impressions for one night.

Chasing down that airflow problem...I got some CRC MAF sensor cleaner, put the MAF sensor in a small old but clean electronics baggie, and sprayed and swirled. The tiny sensor element looks a bit lighter apple juice colored now, and is more transparent than before cleaning. Carbon panel is also off. Throttle response is about the same, but it does pull better. My impression is easier acceleration most noticeable in lower RPMs. Grain of salt, this is after doing a log and drive in the WRX.

 

Here's today's run plotted with the first OEM run. I think a lot of the change could be attributed to a dirty sensor. Clean MAF together with the carbon panel delete produced A/F numbers that look a bit more as-expected. Also note the blue lines are base protune (not OEM).

 

I think we're getting somewhere..

Did you spray down the two wires up inside, or mainly the outside visible one? Outside visible one is IAT sensor, so no major change would come from that.

 

Does the blue line have no carbon filter? If so then you still have a ton of vacuum. I did some pulls on my car this weekend and it was -1.0 in/hq at worst.

 

Also make sure you do pulls on the same road and at the same point (pick a land object to base the start from).

Good tips, thank you. I sprayed down all three for good measure.

 

The blue line has no carbon filter, yes. Still don't know what's blocking it up causing lots of vacuum. I'll keep digging. I think next is to take off the plastic cover and take a peek inside the throttle valve. Where else is there to look?

Could be your cat being clogged preventing the engine from being able to ingest more air.

Car has 106k miles on it now, and a few months ago I heard the fuel pump whining after a 3 hours drive. I figured it's time for a fuel filter replacement, as per cars101 fuel filter is now slated for 60k service replacement (where BL/BP's said "life of the car").

 

Fuel Filter Part Number: 42072AJ060

 

First I installed a fuel pressure gauge to see what the base pressure was at idle.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=255244&stc=1&d=1505183651

 

Hose was a little long, but this came straight out of my old Nissan so in a pinch can't complain

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=255245&stc=1&d=1505183651

 

Here's the fuel pressure on the 106k fuel filter

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=255246&stc=1&d=1505183651

 

I pulled the lower back seat cushion off, and removed the 4 bolt plate behind the passenger seat.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=255232&stc=1&d=1505183530

 

How convenient, the retaining bracket can't come out, I used a screw driver to notch the sheet metal up and that gave it enough room to remove the bracket.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=255233&stc=1&d=1505183530

 

The assembly is out

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=255235&stc=1&d=1505183530

 

Here is what Empty light's worth of fuel looks like. Also notice the color of the fuel, keep this in mind for later.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=255234&stc=1&d=1505183530

 

Removed the fuel pump/filter assembly from the bucket

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=255236&stc=1&d=1505183530

 

Then removed the fuel pump out of the filter assembly. This is much easier then on my 05 LGT...

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=255237&stc=1&d=1505183530

 

Old and New filter side by side, can you tell which one is the old one?

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=255242&stc=1&d=1505183651

 

Little help from the flashlight...

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=255243&stc=1&d=1505183651

 

I blew into the feed hose, the old filter is full of this black gunk

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=255238&stc=1&d=1505183530

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=255239&stc=1&d=1505183530

 

Now I was gonna replace the fuel strainer too, found the wrong part number (42072AA121) ordered it, to find out that it's not for the fuel pump. This looks like the strainer for the other suction pump (behind the driver seat). I couldn't find an aftermarket version, and frankly I didn't have time to wait for another oem one. I'm not sure there is an OEM strainer for the pump, I gave up searching for it.

 

New filter installed, assembly is ready to go back in.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=255240&stc=1&d=1505183530

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=255241&stc=1&d=1505183530

 

Finally here is the fuel pressure after the filter has been replaced. To my surprise about the same.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=255247&stc=1&d=1505183651

 

Did some logs and to my other surprise my AFR's stayed the same, while I'm a little bummed it didn't help anything, this needed to be done to avoid pump failure while I'm going across the country.

Edited September 12, 2017 by covertrussian

I've been hearing all too familiar humming noise coming from the rear for last couple months. Since it would happen at 45-50mph I knew it was the wheel bearing.

 

First I raised the left side and check the wheel for movement, nothing, was rock solid. Now not being 100% sure now that it's the wheel bearing I still dug in...

 

Removed the 4 bolts, used a hub puller, that pulled the hub out of the bearing. Had to fight with the left overs still stuck to the knuckle, luckily I could pry it with a screwdriver between the knuckle and the parking brake assembly.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=256521&stc=1&d=1507600302

 

Since I've had great luck with Timken bearings on all my other cars, I went with Timken again. Timken HA590313 on left, stock on right

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=256522&stc=1&d=1507600302

 

Before installing the new bearing, I tore into the stock bearing to see if I could see what's wrong. The outside bearing looked fine, but after I tore into the rear side I saw this...

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=256523&stc=1&d=1507600302

 

Cleaned up the outer shell and saw where the real damage was. This looks like an electric related damage, ie bad grounds. If you look carefully it actually looks like little arch welds.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=256524&stc=1&d=1507600302

 

This kind of bearing damage seems common on Subaru rear's (all 3 of mine had it). I believe this is because there is no grounds on the differential, all the grounds stop at the transmission. For this reason I regrounded the rear differential and added grounds to the front after I heard the humming couple months ago. We'll see if it is in time to save the right side.

 

Back to the installation, installed the bearing and torqued the rear bolts to 48lbs.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=256525&stc=1&d=1507600302

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=256526&stc=1&d=1507600875

 

Finally using my big ass torque wrench torqued the nut to 177lbs. Surprisingly the parking brake was able to hold that much torque without slipping. Don't forget to punch in the tab, to prevent the axle nut from getting loose!

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=256527&stc=1&d=1507600875

 

Went for a test drive, all humming is gone. This really makes me question the people and cars that have loose wheel bearings. You would have to drive on the bad bearing for a very long time, listening to the annoying humming, to have it fail enough to fail the movement test. All of the bearings that I've replaced on my LGT had 0 movement but lots of noise .

Edited May 30, 2019 by covertrussian

Yeah, most people are stupid when it comes to understanding the mechanical of a car and the potential dangers of ignored maintenance and repair of things that should be obvious.

It's true. I recently replaced a front wheel bearing on my in-law's 2006 325i. They said it sounded like driving over gravel above 60mph. I insisted they let me replace it asap.

 

Is this the type of noise you're talking about?

 

On another note, do you reckon the Outback's wheel bearing lasted 'long enough'? The previous gen Legacy had a TSB on prematurely failing wheel bearings. No longer an issue on this gen and beyond?

Mine wasn't as bad as gravel, but it does have a course rotational sound. Unlike bad tires it not as constant through the speeds.

 

By the signs of my Outback, the bearing life hasn't been all that better then previous generation. Same with my 04 Forester, which needed both rear bearings too. This is why I believe that lack of good grounds is what kills our rear bearings first.

Would you care to share how you grounded the rear diff?

Been meaning to post these up, so thanks for the motivation GTEASER.

 

Rear Grounding

 

Left side attached to the differential

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=256621&stc=1&d=1507701140

 

Then found a body attachment point, in this case right above the muffler

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=256622&stc=1&d=1507701140

 

Next the right side

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=256623&stc=1&d=1507701140

 

I tried to find a spot by where the other muffler would be, but since there was nothing there I attached it infront of the wheel.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=256624&stc=1&d=1507701140

 

 

Front Grounding

 

For front I reinforced the ECU ground to the chassis

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=256625&stc=1&d=1507701140

 

Then grounded the transmission to the shock tower, where one of the stock grounds are.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=256626&stc=1&d=1507701140

 

I ran out of 8 gauge wire by this point, I might make a few more cables and attach them to the heads and body, since EJ253's don't seem to have any grounding cables there.

I've been hearing all too familiar humming noise coming from the rear for last couple months. Since it would happen at 45-50mph I knew it was the wheel bearing.

 

First I raised the left side and check the wheel for movement, nothing, was rock solid. Now not being 100% sure now that it's the wheel bearing I still dug in...

 

Removed the 4 bolts, used a hub puller, that pulled the hub out of the bearing. Had to fight with the left overs still stuck to the knuckle, luckily I could pry it with a screwdriver between the knuckle and the parking brake assembly.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=256521&stc=1&d=1507600302

 

Since I've had great luck with Timken bearings on all my other cars, I went with Timken again. Timken HA590313 on left, stock on right

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=256522&stc=1&d=1507600302

 

Before installing the new bearing, I tore into the stock bearing to see if I could see what's wrong. The outside bearing looked fine, but after I tore into the rear side I saw this...

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=256523&stc=1&d=1507600302

 

Cleaned up the outer shell and saw where the real damage was. This looks like an electric related damage, ie bad grounds. If you look carefully it actually looks like little arch welds.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=256524&stc=1&d=1507600302

 

This kind of bearing damage seems common on Subaru rear's (all 3 of mine had it). I believe this is because there is no grounds on the differential, all the grounds stop at the transmission. For this reason I regrounded the rear differential and added grounds to the front after I heard the humming couple months ago. We'll see if it is in time to save the right side.

 

Back to the installation, installed the bearing and torqued the rear bolts to 48lbs.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=256525&stc=1&d=1507600302

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=256526&stc=1&d=1507600875

 

Finally using my big ass torque wrench torqued the nut to 177lbs. Surprisingly the parking brake was able to hold that much torque without slipping.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=256527&stc=1&d=1507600875

 

Went for a test drive, all humming is gone. This really makes me question the people and cars that have loose wheel bearings. You would have to drive on the bad bearing for a very long time, listening to the annoying humming, to have it fail enough to fail the movement test. All of the bearings that I've replaced on my LGT had 0 movement but lots of noise [emoji38].

Refering to your bearings damage....

 

From what I know... it similar like the "Stray Current Bearing Damage" issue in electric motor

 

http://www.ecmweb.com/content/bearing-current-problems-causes-symptoms-and-solutions

 

Even I am aware about this "stay current" issue.. I did not expect this would happen to car wheel bearing as well....

 

By the way... thanks for sharing this info on bearing failure...

 

 

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Refering to your bearings damage....

 

From what I know... it similar like the "Stray Current Bearing Damage" issue in electric motor

 

http://www.ecmweb.com/content/bearing-current-problems-causes-symptoms-and-solutions

 

Even I am aware about this "stay current" issue.. I did not expect this would happen to car wheel bearing as well....

 

I believe it is similar to "Stray Current Bearing Damage" too, but our fluting is not quite as consistent as an electric motor's. Though this could be because we don't run our wheels at same speed all the time.

 

It's an interesting phenomenon, when I first read the theory I laughed and chucked it off, but after having to replace two rear and one front wheel bearing on my LGT at ~100k, I regrounded my whole car. My one left front lasted another 40k, and I recently replaced it for good measure .

 

I think our high throw out bearing failure is related to this too. If you think about it, stray current would be going through it from the engine to the transmission.

 

 

By the way... thanks for sharing this info on bearing failure...

 

 

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

 

 

For those that are curious, that's referring to my 2014 thread when I first discovered this issue: Bad Grounds Can Lead to Wheel Bearing Failure

Refering to your bearings damage....

 

From what I know... it similar like the "Stray Current Bearing Damage" issue in electric motor

 

http://www.ecmweb.com/content/bearing-current-problems-causes-symptoms-and-solutions

 

Even I am aware about this "stay current" issue.. I did not expect this would happen to car wheel bearing as well....

 

By the way... thanks for sharing this info on bearing failure...

 

 

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

I agree with you.... the stray current phenomenon in constant speed induction AC electric motor may not 100% applicable to our bearing failure...

 

In AC electric motor.. the worn damage cavities (that look like welding on the bearing inner race circurmference) is in full circurmference of bearing inner race... whereas in your wheel bearing the damage is on the opposite (not full circurmference).

 

One thing that might contribute to this.... could be the atmospheric environment as well... I see on your photo.. a lot of corrosion throughout the whole places on your car...

 

The car was built 2012 right? Mine 2012 LGT BM9 with 7+,+++km, but mine doesn't have any sort of that kind corrosion issue.. event my 1993 Civic EG3 is same too. I live in tropical climate always 3+degC with dry humidity & not near to the beach.

 

Therefore.... I believe atmospheric condition (temp variation between season, humidity, present of salty environment) really play significant roles with corrossion + your bearing failure...

 

Bear in mind...if we refer to corrosion engineering point of view:

 

1) In salty + humid environment the air become conductive for electrolisis process (similar to battery concept)

 

2) Plus with 2 disimilar material/metal joint/touching each other (in our case... bearing & its housing)

 

3) The resultant could result the same phenomenon as anodic/galvanic corrosion

 

Refer to this article at the bottom page:

 

http://www.dootalk.com/forums/topic/1292626-very-good-read-on-bearing-failures/

 

 

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Edited October 11, 2017 by JohariAhmad

Added this DIY to the "5th Gen DIY Maintenance and Repair" Sticky. Thanks gentlemen for the great info!!!

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5699345&postcount=14

As you noticed, rust is the way of life anywhere in mid-atlantic and higher east coast. While I agree that all adds up, Subaru's bearing failure seems higher then many other cars on the road locally.

 

My (Infiniti G20, Nissan Primera everywhere else) is still on original rear bearings at 140k. I proactively replaced the fronts at 130k since I race the car, but they probably would have been fine till 200k without racing.

Thanks for posting this up. I'll do this on our outback.

 

For folks who don't have space to store extra wire on a spool, would something prebuilt like this would work instead of buying a spool and end connectors?

https://www.farmandfleet.com/products/g--3302-deka-4-gauge-switch-to-starter-cable.html

Extra wire on a spool? Go to Lowes/HomeDepot and buy it by the foot, one I got was $0.55/foot. I used about 10 feet to build my kit , just get good connectors from Amazon/eBay.

Yep, for example, I'm no longer allowed to buy things to 'stock up'. Just no space to store it. Until the one hopeful day we move to a home with some property, garage, maybe workshop.

 

On second thought, maybe I can still justify a 25ft spool. I'll just use your rough estimate of ~10ft for each of our cars and whatever leftover for my parents' car.

 

See, this is why I appreciate your posts. Makes me think a bit more about everything.

After about a year of waiting for SuperPro to release these, and about a month of waiting for them to arrive stateside, they are finally here! Big thanks to Cygnus Performance for getting them out on 12/29 and they were in my hands by 01/02!

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=260178&stc=1&d=1514994676

 

Now I gotta wait for it to get above 20-30F, tired of working on cars in subzero temps!

I’m still reading through and digesting the tuning notes earlier in this thread. In particular the mpg’s, the best I can seem to get out of mine is 27mpg at 70-75mph. What are your highway speeds like? 30+mpg with a 87oct tune only would be really awesome, unless I missed other mods I think I’ve got myself a summer project.

 

As a point of reference, I bought my 2012 2 years ago with 32k on it, and it ran like garbage. A couple tanks of premium and a couple bottles of HEET helped a little, but I pretty much assumed it was just a crappy engine. On a whim I tried dumping a can of seafoam in to a full tank at the beginning of summer this year and it completely transformed the engine. It now runs cleanly with no noticeable stumbles, comes off idle cleaner, and gets 1-2 mpg better than it did last year. It sounds like you got yours sorted but I’d thought I’d throw it out there.