Building the perfect LGT

Well, for my wants

Looking to get a little advice and guidance for how to build my LGT. Dropped my 05 LGT with 150K off at the dealer for an inspection. Nothing major so far - a few leaky seals/gaskets. But does have a clicking during right turns and stiff shifting they are diagnosing. Then I decided to have them put some steel brake lines on. I should have found some JDM calipers - but those will probably have to wait till next year now.

Right now its bone stock and Im wanting this to be a nice cruiser/sleeper car. It will be getting a lot of miles - I plan on driving between CO and NV often to see family so Im looking for a slightly improved ride.

First I want to address reliability. Ive read about checking/replacing the water bypass pipe, water pump, any tensioners, wheel bearings, CV's, and the timing belt was done about 15k ago. I have also read about a banjo bolt turbo screen that needs removed, "killer b" oil pickup, and im going to upgrade any and all oil lines. I also read to replace the spark plug hole gaskets when doing the valve cover (they are leaky ATM). What else do I need to consider? What all do I need to get for a full "tune up"? Plugs (are any of the fancy ones worth it?), wires, air filter, fuel filter, going to replace all bushings and mounts, PCV, and what else?

My next focus will be on the comfort and suspension. Is it true that 08+ wrx brackets fit the LGT? Id love to pickup a true bucket set - and yes im aware of the seat belt/airbag light issues. For suspension, I understand spec B suspension is the most comfortable way to go? Is that just aluminum lower arms and the bilstein shocks with the top hats? What springs would be recommended?

Is it true the Accessport the only way to get tuning with an easy way to switch maps? I dont care much about any of the features of the accessport, aside from the ability to easily switch maps - I have an Ultra Gauge and will likely be getting the factory 3 gauge cluster.

I've been reading a ton, but I can only read so much before I want to talk about it - especially when I dont have the car to play with

Lots here, but a few thoughts:

-Clicking while turning is an axle. That will be the dealerships first go to.

-Water by pass is a hunk of aluminum with no moving parts. Shouldn't need replacing..

- Water pump and tensioners should have been done with the timing belt. Double check the receipt.

-Moroso offers an oil pick up that is about half the cost of the killer b.

-Oil lines shouldn't need upgrading for stock. Remove banjo screens.

-Yes get fancy spark plugs. Iridium are stock, should be about $50-60ish for the box. No wires, but make sure the coil packs aren't hideously corroded.

-AEM dry filter that fits stock airbox

-The Bilstein shocks will make the ride improvement, not the aluminum bits. Check the suspension subforum for ideas.

-Accessport is straightforward. Though even then the pre loaded maps aren't the greatest. So with the Accessport and a stage1 tune (reliable tune for a stock car) you're looking at $700-900 depending on where you buy stuff from. Or, tactrix cable and stage1 tune will run less than $400. You'll get the same tune. You shouldn't have need to switch a lot between maps on the go with a stock car. With tactrix cable you upload the tune to the car With a laptop. I'm simplifying, but $300-500 is a lot of money to say "I don't want to deal with it." Also read up on btssm. It's an android app that does gauges, monitoring, etc. $15 and can plug into tactrix or a proprietary Bluetooth plug. Super useful.

-Good luck on finding a the 3 gauge cluster. A long time member just found a bnib unit and we all flipped out last week.

I think my wagon is pretty perfect...but then, my Spec B has some nice features, but lacks in some other area's.

Read my click here link and see that my wagon is a fun DD.

Read the sticky's at the tops of the forum's, you'll learn a lot.

One other thing for reliability - The early fourth generation Legacy GT's like your 2005 had catted uppipes and should be replaced with a later generation stock CATLESS uppipe to prevent possible damage to the turbo from catalytic converter debris/pieces.

Good job on doing so much research by the way.

There's a few e tuning options. I went with Tuning Alliance who a lot of people stand by here. They can set you up with a nice bundle of downpipe, accessport, and stage 2 tune and you'll be happy there for quite some time. It really frees things up.

You could always talk to them about whatever you specifically want to do too, for example if you just want an Accessport and tune. If you're going to pay for a tune though, you might as well shell out an extra few hundred bucks for a downpipe and unleash those ponies.

Also I'm not sure but for the AEM dry filter seanyb505 mentioned, you might wanna make sure you're tuned with that. Definitely gotta be careful to be tuned right when you're changing the airflow with these things.

As a first step in handling people on here tend to recommend a thicker rear sway bar (like Whiteline) and if the end links are not up to par, MOOG sway bar end links. People also sometimes recommend AVO rear sway bar mount reinforcement brackets to go along with it (see the description in the link for reasoning).

To help you continue with your research do some google searches for bilstein koni swifts , and include site:legacygt.com in your search.

You sound like a good stage 1 or 2 candidate to me! I still think that stage 2 was the perfect mix of gas mileage, go-juice, and reliability on my wagon. (I'm stage 3 now, whole other can of [issues]worms)

here's what I would do, if I were you. It's most likely what others here will say as well, so make sure you consult all the stickys:

-Make sure all of the maintenance is up to date. Get timing belt stuff, accessory belts, O2 sensor, MAF sensor, axles/bearings, fluids etc. all looked at and repaired if needed. Though, it looks like you're already taking care of this step!

-Get off the factory tune! I know people knock the AccessPORT since for a daily driver it's not very useful. BUT... it can be a very helpful diagnostic tool when things go wrong. Don't get me wrong, open source tuning is just as capable(in fact, more), but it requires a bit of technical knowledge and access to a laptop. The AccessPORT is a very easy to use unit if you're more of a "plug-n-play" luddite.

-Get the suspension sorted. The front control arm bushings are fairly problematic in these cars, as in they always go first. Your Legacy has some miles on it, and if you're thinking about changing anything up suspension wise it'll magnify worn bushings even more. As far as suspension setups are concerned, check out the sub-forum. Lots of data there.

-Then, you can think about what tune/mods you want to do. IMO, a catless up pipe is required. Get a good one, cheap ones tend to crack. After that, though, it's up to your desires. Just always remember these two adages:

1)"Stay stock, stay happy"

2)"Overbuild and undertune"

Lots here, but a few thoughts:

 

-Clicking while turning is an axle. That will be the dealerships first go to.

I agree, but it seems to be in the rear. I know theres axles in the rear, but it still seems odd that it sounds rearward only while turning. As long as they dont say its the differential - i'll be happy.

-Water by pass is a hunk of aluminum with no moving parts. Shouldn't need replacing..

- Water pump and tensioners should have been done with the timing belt. Double check the receipt.

That would be smart - I didnt do it, but was given the number of the shop who did the work. I will give them a ring.

-Moroso offers an oil pick up that is about half the cost of the killer b.

-Oil lines shouldn't need upgrading for stock. Remove banjo screens.

I come from GM with horrible oil line failure as well as my "oil cooler is leaking" so I get paranoid and a leak is enough reason to justify the upgrade to me

-Yes get fancy spark plugs. Iridium are stock, should be about $50-60ish for the box. No wires, but make sure the coil packs aren't hideously corroded.

-AEM dry filter that fits stock airbox

-The Bilstein shocks will make the ride improvement, not the aluminum bits. Check the suspension subforum for ideas.

-Accessport is straightforward. Though even then the pre loaded maps aren't the greatest. So with the Accessport and a stage1 tune (reliable tune for a stock car) you're looking at $700-900 depending on where you buy stuff from. Or, tactrix cable and stage1 tune will run less than $400. You'll get the same tune. You shouldn't have need to switch a lot between maps on the go with a stock car. With tactrix cable you upload the tune to the car With a laptop. I'm simplifying, but $300-500 is a lot of money to say "I don't want to deal with it." Also read up on btssm. It's an android app that does gauges, monitoring, etc. $15 and can plug into tactrix or a proprietary Bluetooth plug. Super useful.

A high and low altitude tune because of the trips I plan on taking is mainly why i'd be switching maps. As for the Gauges, I have an UltraGauge which I like a lot but may get the new bluetooth one to go wireless. But I know I will need a tune, or a few, as its only staying stock for as long as it takes to fix all the leaks and get the suspension work done.

-Good luck on finding a the 3 gauge cluster. A long time member just found a bnib unit and we all flipped out last week.

I found a link and seen "Add to cart" Didnt notice it said "no longer available" as well. Oh well, gives me a "Missing Link" to search for to finish off the car someday

Thank you for all the other tips as well.

One other thing for reliability - The early fourth generation Legacy GT's like your 2005 had catted uppipes and should be replaced with a later generation stock CATLESS uppipe to prevent possible damage to the turbo from catalytic converter debris/pieces.

 

Good job on doing so much research by the way.

 

There's a few e tuning options. I went with Tuning Alliance who a lot of people stand by here. They can set you up with a nice bundle of downpipe, accessport, and stage 2 tune and you'll be happy there for quite some time. It really frees things up.

 

You could always talk to them about whatever you specifically want to do too, for example if you just want an Accessport and tune. If you're going to pay for a tune though, you might as well shell out an extra few hundred bucks for a downpipe and unleash those ponies.

 

Also I'm not sure but for the AEM dry filter seanyb505 mentioned, you might wanna make sure you're tuned with that. Definitely gotta be careful to be tuned right when you're changing the airflow with these things.

 

As a first step in handling people on here tend to recommend a thicker rear sway bar (like Whiteline) and if the end links are not up to par, MOOG sway bar end links. People also sometimes recommend AVO rear sway bar mount reinforcement brackets to go along with it (see the description in the link for reasoning).

 

To help you continue with your research do some google searches for bilstein koni swifts , and include site:legacygt.com in your search.

Thank you - This cite has a lot of good information easy to find unlike some websites where the stickies are full of useless information and more questions then answers.

And im with you on the getting tune and exhaust done as one - I want to get the car into "like new" condition and then will go full bore on a tune/parts. Would it need a tune because it has changed 4,000 feet of elevation, or would it be fine to hold off until I am ready? Because after I get the bushings/mounts, suspension, and any leaks taken care of - its going up in stage tuning. Its just no fun to say I have a stage 0 subaru.

Thanks for the additional info to search. I need something to fill the void of not having the car.

You sound like a good stage 1 or 2 candidate to me! I still think that stage 2 was the perfect mix of gas mileage, go-juice, and reliability on my wagon. (I'm stage 3 now, whole other can of [issues]worms)

 

here's what I would do, if I were you. It's most likely what others here will say as well, so make sure you consult all the stickys:

 

-Make sure all of the maintenance is up to date. Get timing belt stuff, accessory belts, O2 sensor, MAF sensor, axles/bearings, fluids etc. all looked at and repaired if needed. Though, it looks like you're already taking care of this step!

 

-Get off the factory tune! I know people knock the AccessPORT since for a daily driver it's not very useful. BUT... it can be a very helpful diagnostic tool when things go wrong. Don't get me wrong, open source tuning is just as capable(in fact, more), but it requires a bit of technical knowledge and access to a laptop. The AccessPORT is a very easy to use unit if you're more of a "plug-n-play" luddite.

 

-Get the suspension sorted. The front control arm bushings are fairly problematic in these cars, as in they always go first. Your Legacy has some miles on it, and if you're thinking about changing anything up suspension wise it'll magnify worn bushings even more. As far as suspension setups are concerned, check out the sub-forum. Lots of data there.

 

-Then, you can think about what tune/mods you want to do. IMO, a catless up pipe is required. Get a good one, cheap ones tend to crack. After that, though, it's up to your desires. Just always remember these two adages:

1)"Stay stock, stay happy"

2)"Overbuild and undertune"

I figured Step 1 (maintenance and repair) is the most important and so I dont want to skimp on it. Im likely going with new hubs, axles, bushings, and struts on all 4 corners and a full "tune up" and bushing/mounts replace just so I am starting with a good solid baseline to build on.

Im leaning twords the AP for the ease factor - but its only because everyone and their mom that I know has one. I dont think I'll change my tune often, only when I go on vacations and my altitude changes a lot. It would be nice to have an "eco" tune, but honestly im not sure i'd use it. My cousin talked to me about it and he said it did not like how it drove and just learned to stay out of boost better.

What about stage 3 is being problematic? Thats about where I wanted to end up.

I'm not really qualified to comment on tuning for elevation changes. Hopefully someone else can chime in on that.

I'm not sure Stage 3 is necessarily problematic as long as you have a good tuner. Also there is another thread somewhere with a number of comments related to problems from upgrading injectors.

I'm very happy with my Stage 2 setup right now. The exhaust sound is opened up just enough for me to hear that air flowing through the downpipe from in the cabin but it's not too loud. In my opinion it feels the way the car SHOULD have felt stock.

Stage 3 is a bigger leap cost wise and I'm irresponsible enough with money so I have to wait. I'm gradually collecting Stage 3 parts either when I have the money or when a good deal comes up in the Classified section (you can find some nice deals there!).

EDIT: For specific tuning questions I'm sure you could reach out to (Mike at) Tuning Alliance. Also it seems like there's a Dave with Cryotune Performance who people seem to respect a lot on here. My personal experience has only been with Tuning Alliance.

 

What about stage 3 is being problematic? Thats about where I wanted to end up.

Okay, I suppose I could revise my statement a little bit: It's nto that stage 3 is problematic, per say, it's just that by that point you've most likely changed a lot of stuff to aftermarket bits which opens up opportunity for compatibility issues etc. Also, you're making 100+hp over stock at that point as well, so there's a much higher chance of breaking something too.

For example: I have an auto trans. The first thing that happened after I got my stage 3 tune was my center diff exploding when I broke traction up front. I broke traction all the time before with no issues, but now the extra power did it in.

Second example: I have 1000cc injectors, CNC rails, braided lines, and a Deatschwerks fuel pump. Thanks to all this big huge pulsating stuff, I need to invest in a fairly robust(and costly) fuel regulation system to eliminate a BAD fuel harmonic I've been having.

This doesn't happen to everyone, and it's most definitely not an issue for OEM stuff. Just my little insight!

I can understand that - I want to make power, however want to make sure I keep reliability. Exploding diff's I feel are a roll of the dice unless you are beating on them. But I do understand what you mean by its still adding 100HP, its going to be harder on things.

I finally have her back, but with few answers. They "couldnt duplicate the problem" for the stiff transmission or rear clicking noise. Parts guys were real helpful and said he just deals with his stiff transmission ($5k for a new replacement installed, unsure on a rebuild) and thinks the clicking is the bearing. But otherwise its just leaky valve covers, seeping output shaft seal, leaky oil cooler, leaking front struts, bad lca bushing, rear defroster clip is broken, and the wear items were near its service limits like brakes and tires.

New braided lines feel good, but I dont think I'll really feel a difference until I get new rotors and pads too. I'm also getting new axles and hubs, doing the tune up, and probably steel clutch line and then have to wait for my next paycheck for the next "stage" of repair While waiting for my next paycheck I also do have some cans of Plasti-dip laying around... i'll have to get rid of some of the silver and the badges.

http://i63.tinypic.com/vdzrzt.jpg

One other thing for reliability - The early fourth generation Legacy GT's like your 2005 had catted uppipes and should be replaced with a later generation stock CATLESS uppipe to prevent possible damage to the turbo from catalytic converter debris/pieces.

Is it a guarentee that I have a Cat? I keep getting mixed answers about this. I wont yet mention who, but it was a big name in subie performance, said that I have an STi motor and the only differences are external bolt on pieces and that none of the 2.5L engines had cats in the up pipes. They also said a new intake is only good if i am keeping the stock tune and to just do an intercooler and cattless downpipe if i want to tune and stay reliable. They then recommended a tuner out in cali that from my research is a Honda shop mostly.

From my searching there is a lot of misinformation there. I understand the 255 and 257 have different pistons as well as the external stuff. I also have read and been told about the uppipe cats that are on some 2.5 engines. I also understand that an intake isnt needed until big power is made, but likely is not good for a stock tune.

You recommended an OEM catless uppipe - is there a reason to not go aftermarket or you just suggested that because im not tuned yet and it wouldnt affect it? Im highly considering a full exhaust, intercooler, and a tune once i decide on a tuner.

If you have an '05 or '06 Legacy GT, and the uppipe is original, you have a catted uppipe (see picture).

The OEM catless uppipe from a later model LGT or STI is a good recommendation.

1) Less expensive ($50-75, normally)

2) Fits perfectly

3) Looks stock if you have to pass emissions inspections

4) Has heat shields

5) Has a flex section, does not have a tendency to crack

It is hard to see any advantages for an aftermarket piece here, unless you just really love the brand name or something. BTW, do yourself a favor and avoid made in China intake or exhaust pieces.

There's little to be gained from an aftermarket intake except extra noise. Some tuners even advise clients to go back to the stock intake. It's better to spend your money on parts that make a difference.

Is it a guarentee that I have a Cat? I keep getting mixed answers about this. I wont yet mention who, but it was a big name in subie performance, said that I have an STi motor and the only differences are external bolt on pieces and that none of the 2.5L engines had cats in the up pipes. They also said a new intake is only good if i am keeping the stock tune and to just do an intercooler and cattless downpipe if i want to tune and stay reliable. They then recommended a tuner out in cali that from my research is a Honda shop mostly. *Red flag!*

 

From my searching there is a lot of misinformation there. I understand the 255 and 257 have different pistons as well as the external stuff. I also have read and been told about the uppipe cats that are on some 2.5 engines. I also understand that an intake isnt needed until big power is made, but likely is not good for a stock tune.

 

You recommended an OEM catless uppipe - is there a reason to not go aftermarket or you just suggested that because im not tuned yet and it wouldnt affect it? Im highly considering a full exhaust, intercooler, and a tune once i decide on a tuner.

Okay, let's clarify the whole "STi engine thing" here... regardless of what the shop you went to says. These are all constancies(i.e.-fully known and confirmed information.) when it comes to the Legacy GT:

- All 2005 Legacy GT and Outback XT models came with an EJ257 shortblock mated to B25 heads. This is the same exact engine as the 2004 STi. Exactly the same. The differences here are up-pipe, turbo, manifold, intercooler, and obviously wiring and sensor layout etc. Later models had an EJ255 shortblock mated to D25 heads. The 255 has lower dish on the pistons, and the combustion chambers have a different shape which creates a higher compression ratio. (8.5:1 vs. the 257/B25 CR of 8.2:1). The D25 heads are also known to have better flow characteristics, and were used in all the 2.5L WRX's as well. If someone tells you otherwise "because mine came with a 255 and D25 heads", then they're not the original owner, and they don't have the original engine. This is probably the fifth time I've had to clear this up in the last month... everyone likes to be an armchair engineer.

-A new intake is not "only good if you have a stock tune". That's the biggest wad of crap I've ever heard. First of all, an intake is NEVER good on a stock tune. You must re-tune your MAF scaling, unless the intake was designed to run on stock MAF scaling and specifically specifies such. Second of all, unless you have a bigger turbo and bigger injectors, an aftermarket intake is just a fancy noise maker. The stock intake has been proven to be fine well into and beyond the VF52+E85 range. that being said, many of us have them because we like fancy noisemakers. We are also tuned for them.

-IF you have a 2005 LGT, and IF it is still as it came from the factory, then you do have a catalytic converter in your up pipe!!! There is no other option here. It was done to meet emissions, and later removed as it was seen to be a mechanical danger to the turbo. I know this for a fact, I have half a dozen catted up-pipes sitting in my garage.

-Most people say OEM catless because it's OEM quality, it's reliable, and it's cheap. Definitely the best bang for your buck. I myself spent the $130 on a GrimmSpeed because #racecar. It made no difference other than personal satisfaction. So in this case, do as you will, just be sure to use a quality part. So basically, what Miles said!

-Stray away from all the Chinesium bits you see on the interwebs. 95% of the time, they're junk. A turboback exhaust, top mount, and a tune are a great first choice! I'd probably throw a 3-port electronic boost controller on there too.

BTW, do yourself a favor and avoid made in China intake or exhaust pieces.

It's better to spend your money on parts that make a difference.

I couldnt agree more!!

Okay, let's clarify the whole "STi engine thing" here... regardless of what the shop you went to says. These are all constancies(i.e.-fully known and confirmed information.) when it comes to the Legacy GT:

 

This is probably the fifth time I've had to clear this up in the last month... everyone likes to be an armchair engineer.

 

-IF you have a 2005 LGT, and IF it is still as it came from the factory, then you do have a catalytic converter in your up pipe!!! There is no other option here. It was done to meet emissions, and later removed as it was seen to be a mechanical danger to the turbo. I know this for a fact, I have half a dozen catted up-pipes sitting in my garage.

 

-Most people say OEM catless because it's OEM quality, it's reliable, and it's cheap. Definitely the best bang for your buck. I myself spent the $130 on a GrimmSpeed because #racecar. It made no difference other than personal satisfaction. So in this case, do as you will, just be sure to use a quality part. So basically, what Miles said!

 

-Stray away from all the Chinesium bits you see on the interwebs. 95% of the time, they're junk. A turboback exhaust, top mount, and a tune are a great first choice! I'd probably throw a 3-port electronic boost controller on there too.

Thank you guys so MUCH!! This site is my LGT bible now. Very honest and you actually know what you are talking about - not just acting like it! Plus some of the vendors/tuners are active members so that means quite a bit. Im going to send a picture of the cat in my exhaust and ask what they believe it to be then.

I run far far away from china parts on my vehicles. Usually its OEM or "better" then OEM quality. I'll pick up an OEM catless up, and probably stick with SPT/STi parts for everything else i can.

Im going to send a picture of the cat in my exhaust

Looks like that cat is really restricting the exhaust flow, Wetmyson.

It's fine up until 300whp actually

One thing that hasn't been mentioned is that you shouldn't need multiple tunes for elevation changes. The ECU has plenty of ability to compensate for fluctuations in intake/coolant temperature, atmospheric pressure, etc., so any tuner worth their salt should be able to tune your car to operate fine under all conditions. It will take some extra revisions, I'm sure, but that's expected if you're trying to tune across all conditions.

I can personally vouch for Mike @ Tuning Alliance, but since you're in CO, it may also make sense to reach out to Dave @ Cryotune Performance. I don't have any personal experience with him, but he's also active on these forums and also gets excellent reviews from his customers. You're in good hands with either of these guys, for sure.

One thing that hasn't been mentioned is that you shouldn't need multiple tunes for elevation changes. The ECU has plenty of ability to compensate for fluctuations in intake/coolant temperature, atmospheric pressure, etc., so any tuner worth their salt should be able to tune your car to operate fine under all conditions. It will take some extra revisions, I'm sure, but that's expected if you're trying to tune across all conditions.

 

I can personally vouch for Mike @ Tuning Alliance, but since you're in CO, it may also make sense to reach out to Dave @ Cryotune Performance. I don't have any personal experience with him, but he's also active on these forums and also gets excellent reviews from his customers. You're in good hands with either of these guys, for sure.

I spoke with cryo and thats basically what he said. Great guy and thats likely where ill go because hes in CO and works with LGTs with positive reviews.

Sadly i just had my valve covers regasketed, but didnt think (and wasnt told by the dealer) that i should adjust my valves to combat burnt valve so im thinking ill get that done and then im almost ready to start with the fun/go fast/racecar parts

Adjusting valves on a lgt turbo car requires removing the camshafts and replacing the manual lash adjusters with a different thicknesses. Pita on the car. Usually they don't get too far out of adjustment but I haven't checked mine. Worth a feeler gauge to know!

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

Adjusting valves on a lgt turbo car requires removing the camshafts and replacing the manual lash adjusters with a different thicknesses. Pita on the car. Usually they don't get too far out of adjustment but I haven't checked mine. Worth a feeler gauge to know!

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

Adjusting valves on a lgt turbo car requires removing the camshafts and replacing the manual lash adjusters with a different thicknesses. Pita on the car. Usually they don't get too far out of adjustment but I haven't checked mine. Worth a feeler gauge to know!

 

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

So youre saying they didnt mention it because they didnt want to do it? they were half way there... why not just take more of my money and get the valves while your in there?

I have a feeler, 3 actually. The shim under bucket on my KX and KLX are super easy. After my first time i got it down to about an hour to check - somehow i dont think ill get that good on the LGT. I just dont have the space or time currently.

Ill probably get Btssm to monitor misfire and clean the injectors and worry about getting the valves adjusted when its starting to look like a problem - if its not already.

On the other hand, a burnt valve is a good reason to go with a 257 right?

Adjusting valves on a lgt turbo car requires removing the camshafts and replacing the manual lash adjusters with a different thicknesses. Pita on the car. Usually they don't get too far out of adjustment but I haven't checked mine. Worth a feeler gauge to know!

 

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

So youre saying they didnt mention it because they didnt want to do it? they were half way there... why not just take more of my money and get the valves while your in there?

I have a feeler, 3 actually. The shim under bucket on my KX and KLX are super easy. After my first time i got it down to about an hour to check - somehow i dont think ill get that good on the LGT. I just dont have the space or time currently.

Ill probably get Btssm to monitor misfire and clean the injectors and worry about getting the valves adjusted when its starting to look like a problem - if its not already.

On the other hand, a burnt valve is a good reason to go with a 257 right?

So youre saying they didnt mention it because they didnt want to do it? [emoji38] they were half way there... why not just take more of my money and get the valves while your in there?

 

I have a feeler, 3 actually. The shim under bucket on my KX and KLX are super easy. After my first time i got it down to about an hour to check - somehow i dont think ill get that good on the LGT. I just dont have the space or time currently.

 

Ill probably get Btssm to monitor misfire and clean the injectors and worry about getting the valves adjusted when its starting to look like a problem - if its not already.

 

On the other hand, a burnt valve is a good reason to go with a 257 right?

Well, only if the bottom end needs repair.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk