Official 5th Generation Suspension Thread

At the moment, I've got the 26mm FSB from 2013+ and I've got a 20mm STI RSB. What's the recommendation for upgrading the rear? I was thinking a 22mm adjustable Whiteline or is there a better option? Also considering some bracing too.

 

The Whiteline 22mm bar is the recommended, and also comes with rear sway bar braces as well. If you want to go ham, Whiteline has a 24 mm bar too.

Enable mode! Some Konis for sale on Nasioc: https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2899143

So all last week I put in new Eibach Pro springs, KYB. excel G struts, all new lower control arms (needed all bushings and ball joint so was cheap and easier to just buy the whole arm) Whiteline 22mm RSB and front and back Whiteline Endlinks. Contrary to rallysport directs website the correct part numbers for Whiteline endlinks for my 2013 2.5 premium are the KLC172 and KLC182. They fit like a glove. Everything went together really well over a two day period which mostly was my shocks and springs. All in all I have an alignment scheduled for tomorrow morning and I got 4 brand new tires last night. It handles about 200% better than it ever has. Just a really great sturdy planted feeling. It has no sag and almost no noticeable body roll under normal driving and higher speed rolling corners. Wish I would have done this years ago. Prices are below

KYB Excel G $316

Eibach proline 1” drop $99

Whiteline RSB $224

Whiteline End links $244 total for all 4

New lower control arms W/all bushings and ball joints $142

And my tires I got at Costco $640 for all 4.

Bridgestone Touranza Quiet track. They are really quiet and comfortable

Edited August 29, 2019 by MagicMillhouse
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has anyone fitted whiteline kca409 off centre top hats to the 5th gen with bilsteins?

 

ive got them fitted to my bpe with the whiteline lower caster bush and have 7 degrees of positive caster.its a nice upgrade

It handles about 200% better than it ever has. Just a really great sturdy planted feeling. It has no sag and almost no noticeable body roll under normal driving and higher speed rolling corners. Wish I would have done this years ago.

 

Hearing things like this make me wonder if the adjustable Koni's or Cusco are worth more than double the '13-'14 struts for a DD.

Hearing things like this make me wonder if the adjustable Koni's or Cusco are worth more than double the '13-'14 struts for a DD.

 

My GT had the Eibach/KYB setup when I bought it. I thought it was a good budget setup. I am not sure if the KYB are going to last long term with the lowering springs. At the same point in time I had Eibach/Koni on my 2.5i, I like the Koni/Eibach that is on my GT. Was it worth $500 more? I thought so, but I could see some who is on a budget being satisfied with it. I also though stock springs/KYB was also a noticeable improvement over stock struts (which is what I put on my 2.5i to sell it)

My GT had the Eibach/KYB setup when I bought it. I thought it was a good budget setup. I am not sure if the KYB are going to last long term with the lowering springs. At the same point in time I had Eibach/Koni on my 2.5i, I like the Koni/Eibach that is on my GT. Was it worth $500 more? I thought so, but I could see some who is on a budget being satisfied with it. I also though stock springs/KYB was also a noticeable improvement over stock struts (which is what I put on my 2.5i to sell it)

 

I could definitely see the 2.5i being satisfactory with KYBs. I went with Konis and H&Rs and I'm not sure I really even get it planted enough to take advantage of them. Still a huge improvement over stock. But if I was driving the GT I'd jump for the adjustable option every time.

Enablers keep enabling.

I like the handling and ride of Koni/eibach combo, they definitely don't beat you up and when the springs start compressing you can feel the progression as you push them harder in to a turn. I do feel like I need the thicker sway bars now though.

The Whiteline 22mm bar is the recommended, and also comes with rear sway bar braces as well. If you want to go ham, Whiteline has a 24 mm bar too.

 

 

 

I’ve been eyeballing RSB upgrades myself. My car’s meant to be a comfortable DD; I’ve got a different one got canyon carving. I was probably going to get the 19mm STI bar. What I’m wondering if I really need to get the braces too if I’m going with that bar. I can’t find any info on when they’re actually needed besides “it’s a good idea if you’re running a big bar.” They wouldn’t be a hardship to install if I’m already down there and I’ve got an impact gun handy. I just want to make sure they don’t end up just being so much chassis jewelry.

 

 

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I’ve been eyeballing RSB upgrades myself. My car’s meant to be a comfortable DD; I’ve got a different one got canyon carving. I was probably going to get the 19mm STI bar. What I’m wondering if I really need to get the braces too if I’m going with that bar. I can’t find any info on when they’re actually needed besides “it’s a good idea if you’re running a big bar.” They wouldn’t be a hardship to install if I’m already down there and I’ve got an impact gun handy. I just want to make sure they don’t end up just being so much chassis jewelry.

 

 

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I put on a Cusco 20mm with no additional bracing.

 

From what I read when I was researching, the 5th gen does not have the weak sway bar mount problem that plagues other Subarus and so does not really need the additional bracing.

 

I've had mine on for maybe a thousand KMs only, but I drive enthusiastically and no problems so far (knock on wood).

 

I dont recall anyone on here that put on the braces too, actually.

I installed the whiteline 22mm rear sway bar and their rear sway bar braces. During the install I noticed the metal in the area wasn't outstandingly beefy so I thought the braces were a good idea. Might not need them but the extra frame stiffness is nice to have.

I agree the Whiteline with the extra braces is a great option. I think if anything more than DD they would be necessary. I have read others who have had the supports break off when driving rallycross. I do hope my KYBs last a while with the Eibach. The Konis are definitely a better shock but I just couldn’t justify the money on a car I drive 50-70k miles a year. It’s literally just to get me to work and back.

I agree the Whiteline with the extra braces is a great option. I think if anything more than DD they would be necessary. I have read others who have had the supports break off when driving rallycross. I do hope my KYBs last a while with the Eibach. The Konis are definitely a better shock but I just couldn’t justify the money on a car I drive 50-70k miles a year. It’s literally just to get me to work and back.

 

 

 

I’m not planning to rallycross my 3.6R. Between the fact that my driving skill does not match my enthusiasm and that my big ‘ol white Legacy would probably seem like a hippo trying to tap dance out there, we’ve got a complete non-starter!

 

I’m just looking to reduce the jiggly-butt syndrome that seems to be inherent in the stock setup. It sounds like the braces are probably overkill, but they’re not that expensive and couldn’t hurt.

 

 

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It was time to replace the struts and shocks on my 2012 2.5i Limited. At over 110k miles they were pretty tired. At the suggestion of a few people on here I replaced them with KYB Excel G for 2013 model year. I also replaced the springs, mounts and various other rubber bits with OE parts for 2013. It made a huge difference. I'm sure fresh 2012 parts would have made a big difference but it really feels like the 2013s were tuned stiffer. All four corners seem much more solid and I really think it's about right for what I was looking for. Thanks to those who suggested this a few months ago.

It was time to replace the struts and shocks on my 2012 2.5i Limited. At over 110k miles they were pretty tired. At the suggestion of a few people on here I replaced them with KYB Excel G for 2013 model year. I also replaced the springs, mounts and various other rubber bits with OE parts for 2013. It made a huge difference. I'm sure fresh 2012 parts would have made a big difference but it really feels like the 2013s were tuned stiffer. All four corners seem much more solid and I really think it's about right for what I was looking for. Thanks to those who suggested this a few months ago.

 

Awesome! I am glad it’s what you were looking for. Should be good for another 100k!

I’m not planning to rallycross my 3.6R. Between the fact that my driving skill does not match my enthusiasm and that my big ‘ol white Legacy would probably seem like a hippo trying to tap dance out there, we’ve got a complete non-starter!

 

I’m just looking to reduce the jiggly-butt syndrome that seems to be inherent in the stock setup. It sounds like the braces are probably overkill, but they’re not that expensive and couldn’t hurt.

 

 

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If you actually just push the car and find it's limits even stock it has a lot of grip and while rollie it takes a lot to get these cars to misbehave. With a good suspension setup and tires you can handle as well as most WRX and STIs. Don't sell the platform short, it also isn't much heavier than the impreza platform, maybe 100 lbs or so, very negligible difference considering the extra power we have.

If you actually just push the car and find it's limits even stock it has a lot of grip and while rollie it takes a lot to get these cars to misbehave. With a good suspension setup and tires you can handle as well as most WRX and STIs. Don't sell the platform short, it also isn't much heavier than the impreza platform, maybe 100 lbs or so, very negligible difference considering the extra power we have.

 

This is a very accurate statement. The 2012 LGT is only 37lbs heavier than the 2018 STI. If we go JDM, the Legacy DIT is the most powerful factory Legacy ever made at 296hp, AND the sedan version of the DIT is actually LIGHTER than the 2018 STI by 7 lbs lol. People under estimate the 5th gen so much.

It was time to replace the struts and shocks on my 2012 2.5i Limited. At over 110k miles they were pretty tired. At the suggestion of a few people on here I replaced them with KYB Excel G for 2013 model year. I also replaced the springs, mounts and various other rubber bits with OE parts for 2013. It made a huge difference. I'm sure fresh 2012 parts would have made a big difference but it really feels like the 2013s were tuned stiffer. All four corners seem much more solid and I really think it's about right for what I was looking for. Thanks to those who suggested this a few months ago.

 

I agree about the stiff feel of the shocks & suspension. My '13 Legacy feels awesome with the stock feeling, and feels planted to the ground. Even at 84K Miles lol

It was time to replace the struts and shocks on my 2012 2.5i Limited. At over 110k miles they were pretty tired. At the suggestion of a few people on here I replaced them with KYB Excel G for 2013 model year. I also replaced the springs, mounts and various other rubber bits with OE parts for 2013. It made a huge difference. I'm sure fresh 2012 parts would have made a big difference but it really feels like the 2013s were tuned stiffer. All four corners seem much more solid and I really think it's about right for what I was looking for. Thanks to those who suggested this a few months ago.

You should add the front swaybar from the 13-14 as well as a 19 or 20mm rear swaybar (from the STi) - really cuts down on body roll.

Yeah, the OEM springs are just way, way too soft. I think that's why now with the RCE's the car feels so much more planted, because it's not pogo-sticking and bouncing all over the place, or rising and falling like a ship at sea. Did I mention I get sea-sick easily?

 

Your ball joints won't last long with that behavior.

Your ball joints won't last long with that behavior.

 

His ball joints were toast when he spun out on a high speed corner during a track day and bent the front subframe and unibody sliding over a curb. This was back in late 2013 or so and the car was totaled. He moved on to a BMW 3-series and hasn't been seen since.

has anyone tried the Bilstein B12 or B14 kit on the gen 5? Edited November 2, 2019 by JDMBR9

does anyone know if part 22 of this diagram is part of the moog strut mount

http://https//dz310nzuyimx0.cloudfront.net/strapr1/c4a4de809e58e8764cf218eddaa136f3/61ff96043ae5d8821997e992f8e46e67.png

 

... or will i have to reuse my rusty one cause they are so damn expensive

Edited November 23, 2019 by ripstik

^Cant say for certain, but I doubt it. Most top mounts I buy are just #24 only.