Rear Sway Bar

Try heading out to a parts store and buy an adaptor for stripped and rounded bolts. Before your next attempt I would put WD40 on it and let it work for a few minutes. Just out of curiosity what tool did you use before?

http://m.autozone.com/ratchets-sockets-and-wrenches/socket-set/duralast-8-pcs-grip-drive-socket-set/457943_0_0

I recently bought a 19MM rear sway bar and the bolts/nuts on my vehicle were rusty. Sadly, I did strip the hex bolt so what's the best way to install the new bar now? Thanks

If it was one of the M8 clamp bolts, I gave some info about replacing a damaged one of these in the following subaruforester.org topic that may help (see both my posts):

http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f70/sway-bar-install-661553/#post6552737

Sorry for the wait. The hex on the inside of the screw is striped. I did use WD-40 but it didn't really help. When the nut got close to the end, it would not move anymore....

*This is an Outback, the Outback forum is unhelpful*

May need to just take a sawzall to that and replace the end links. OEM ones run $45 a side, so aftermarket may be a better option.

Thanks The Grey Goose. I would appreciate it a lot if you can link me to what I need.

Thanks The Grey Goose. I would appreciate it a lot if you can link me to what I need.

Sure thing. What year and trim is your outback?

Sure thing. What year and trim is your outback?

2016 Subaru Outback 2.5i Premium

I mean Legacy

Those hexes on endlinks are notorious for doing exactly what you experienced. They don't have to be replaced. Several things - grab some PB blaster, WD-40 is not a rust penetrant. If you have heat, that works well on endlink bolts. If you have air or electric impact tools, that works significantly better than hand tools in my experience. Lastly, with the hex stripped, you can carefully grab the other side of the endlink with some thin vice grips without damaging it. This is common practice as the hexes strip out all the time here in the rust belt - they are almost useless.

Hope that helps.

I would replace them. You're gonna booger up the threads regardless, and will save yourself a headache later on if you need to take them off. Here's a link to the OEM ones.

https://www.subarupartsdepot.com/parts/2016/Subaru/Outback/2.5i%20Premium?siteid=215079&vehicleid=456463&section=REAR%20SUSPENSION&group=REAR%20SUSPENSION&subgroup=STABILIZER%20BAR%20%26%20COMPONENTS&component=Stabilizer%20link

And here's the MOOG ones, which are half the price and come with both sides.

https://www.amazon.com/Moog-K750404-Stabilizer-Bar-Link/dp/B009B40RJ0

Those hexes on endlinks are notorious for doing exactly what you experienced. They don't have to be replaced. Several things - grab some PB blaster, WD-40 is not a rust penetrant. If you have heat, that works well on endlink bolts. If you have air or electric impact tools, that works significantly better than hand tools in my experience. Lastly, with the hex stripped, you can carefully grab the other side of the endlink with some thin vice grips without damaging it. This is common practice as the hexes strip out all the time here in the rust belt - they are almost useless.

 

Hope that helps.

Thanks spect2k!

I would replace them. You're gonna booger up the threads regardless, and will save yourself a headache later on if you need to take them off. Here's a link to the OEM ones.

 

https://www.subarupartsdepot.com/parts/2016/Subaru/Outback/2.5i%20Premium?siteid=215079&vehicleid=456463&section=REAR%20SUSPENSION&group=REAR%20SUSPENSION&subgroup=STABILIZER%20BAR%20%26%20COMPONENTS&component=Stabilizer%20link

 

And here's the MOOG ones, which are half the price and come with both sides.

 

https://www.amazon.com/Moog-K750404-Stabilizer-Bar-Link/dp/B009B40RJ0

Sweet! Thanks again The Grey Goose!

Hard to believe his bots are that rusted on a 2016. Even the control arms.

Wisconsin

Are there OE nuts or should hardware stores have some?

I would insist on OE parts, since I think they're prevailing-torque (i.e. locking) nuts due to the high-vibration environment of the constantly-moving suspension. Aircraft use prevailing-torque fasteners extensively, and for the same reason.

Also consider that fasteners (including nuts) used for suspension components are generally made from higher grade (stronger and/or tougher) steel. Regardless of the locking feature, you don't want to use a 5, 6, or 8 (metric property class) nut from a hardware store on an OE 10.9 or 12.9 bolt or stud. Using OE nuts provides assurance of adequate strength.

For the short term, it would probably be OK to use hardware-store nuts for a week or two while you're waiting for the proper OE nuts from Subaru. Bonus hint: Apply a small amount of anti-seize compund to the threads of the stud before you attach the nut; someday you'll be glad you did.

So this should be the correct part?

That looks like the one; same part left and right. See the footnote, "Part Is Not Reuseable, Replace Only." That's a strong indicator that it's some variety of prevailing-torque fastener.

From the manual:

 

Tightening torque:

Stabilizer link assembly: 33 N·m (3.4 kgf-m, 24.3 ft-lb)

 

Tightening torque:

Clamp - stabilizer bushing: 38 N·m (3.9 kgf-m, 28.0 ft-lb)

Thanks!

I'd be careful with the 28ftlb on the bushings. While that is what the manual says, the bracket is likely to strip out at that amount...ask me how I know. Worst case is just end up nutting it with some blue loctite

What would you suggest doing? I don't want to run the chance to strip it again..