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Legacy MY10 Parking brake switch upgrade as in MY14


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Hello,

 

I've posted a pic of my recent interior upgrade (parking brake moved to seat heating switches as in MY13 EU version) and it raised questions how I did it.

It looks as this now:

 

77a08f5s-960.jpg

 

Parking brake switch moved from here:

02AAAgFM4uA-960.jpg

 

to this location (this is standard place of MY13-14 cars in Europe, not sure about US market):

77a08f5s-960.jpg

 

Part numbers:

1. Parking brake switch — 83321AJ020

2. Bracket for Parking brake switch— 92133AJ060

9cbf0f5s-960.jpg

 

Need to extend wiring from old place to new place, connect with PC pins (as I couldnt find original plug):

84c08f5s-960.jpg

 

Wiring of parking switch:

Old model:

a4808f5s-960.jpg

New model:

2a808f5s-960.jpg

 

Parking brake switch wiring:

old switch - 10pin

new switch - 12pin

 

Next will show wire code : old switch pin N --> new switch pin N

 

WL (white-blue) : 7 --> 7

Gr (grey) : 4 --> 12

P (pink) : 3 --> 2

LY (Blue-Yellow) : 9 --> 1

Or (orange) : 1 --> 5

W (white) : 2 --> 6

V (violet) : 6 --> 8

BW (Black-white) : 8 --> 10

 

Who wants to change VDC switch to new version:

1 pin blue wire - 12v (interior light)

2 pin orange wire -to vdc

3 pin yellow wire - to vdc

4 pin white wire - ground (interior light)

 

 

Old parking brake place change to new version:

 

1. Inner frame (new type) to accept new switches) — 83413AJ000VH

2. New VDC switch — 83002AJ020

3. Big dummy cover for upper row — 83005AJ000VH

4. Small dummy cover for old VDC switch place) — 83005AJ020VH

 

2a07e0ds-960.jpg

 

Can keep old VDC switch and purchase big dummy covers only. But I wanted new model look, so I kept hill holder switch (it does not fit new frame), so I had to enlarge the hole for it:

 

2587e0ds-960.jpg

 

My car is MY10 diesel, as far as I saw in diagrams, US version never had parking brake switch in middle console (please correct me if I'm wrong), as I could not find it in US diagrams. So i made it for my EU car, and this manual should be valid for all EU cars for sure. It should also work with any legacy/outback (if your seat heater switch cover is empty and does not have si-drive).

Edited by Brunzo
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The hunt will now be on for these parts. :) Actually, it makes more sense to have the parking brake on the console, except you loose the little tray.

 

Google the part numbers. These don't exist domestically, so anything will have to be imported. But a quick google of the part numbers should pull up a jp-carparts.com link pretty easily.

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The hunt will now be on for these parts. :) Actually, it makes more sense to have the parking brake on the console, except you loose the little tray.
The tray is nothing but a stray dirt, pocket lint and hair catcher. I never use it for anything.
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You can get everything from japanparts. If you want the connector that plugs into the back of the new switch, you can get that from Mouser (their p/n 571-1318774-1) and the pins for the connector as well (p/n 571-1123343-1) - they are made by TE Connectivity.
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Hello everyone.

For interior parts, if your car has beige interior, then the part numbers may have a different color code. Please check it in parts catalog. I posted "BLACK" parts as my interior is black ("VH" extension at the end of part number) . And my local dealer wasn't able to supply major of parts as well so I had to look for it elsewhere.

 

I was also concerned with this pocket and had option to install Webasto autonomous heater timer there but decided to use it for a parking brake switch (as in facelift version), as old location is not convenient for me.

This location can be also used for SI-DRIVE switch (if you don't have one) and it moved to the steering wheel control switches in facelift cars.

 

I also posted a pic of my facelift steering wheel, is it worth a new DIY thread about it?

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Thanks Brunzo, I was wondering where SI Drive went after the park brake moved there.

 

I'd like to move SI Drive to the steering wheel if possible so I can change modes without lifting my hand from the wheel.

 

My car has no SI-Drive feature, as it's diesel. But I have successfully upgraded steering wheel to newer version with full switches (it has si-drive controls), where Si-drive controls will be used for different purposes. I created a separate thread about steering wheel change on my car.

Edited by Brunzo
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I was also concerned with this pocket and had option to install Webasto autonomous heater

 

I learned about this heater from a friend in Finland a few weeks ago that has a diesel Rav4. Pretty cool option to an engine block heater. His even has a remote start. :)

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  • 7 months later...
  • 1 month later...

Since Brunzo found the part numbers for the switch blanks, etc., I ended up removing my old brake switch because I kept grabbing for it (annoying!) - as Brunzo indicated, the old switch doesn't fit into the new frame - the hole is wider and shorter than needed - I opened up the hole using a file, but then you don't have anything for the switch to grab onto - I took the old frame and cut/filed away material until I had the raised ring the switch needs to click into and bonded it using an epoxy so now it works as the old one did. (overkill, maybe... but it works!) I thought about sourcing the other switches, but since we have both the trunk and VDC switches on the bottom, I didn't want to split them up (wasn't sure if I could get a trunk switch for the third blank, or if the connectors on the back were the same as the ones we have here or not - I didn't want to make another harness, so I just did this.

 

For the brake switch, I used the connectors/pins I mentioned before, along with a 9 conductor wire (you only need 8), and the connector from the old brake switch to make a harness to go from the new switch in the center console to the connector the old switch used to attach to by the fuse box.

 

Only caution I have for folks is to double check the part numbers - the pictures above are correct, but the numbers are swapped in the text - you want 83005AJ020VH (need 2)

Capture.thumb.JPG.5591a19e27bd0c5ac744ac25db9b37d7.JPG

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  • 1 year later...

So I ordered the switch and bracket from amayama.com, got them pretty quick from Japan (< 2 weeks), started wiring the new switch... only to realize on pin 8 that the new switch has no pin 8. There is no pin 8 or pin 4 on the new one (4 isn't used in brunzo's writeup). Gonna investigate but there's there's chance I ordered the wrong switch.

 

Gonna take the old switch out and check resistances to see if I need to rewire the rest. It is identical to his besides the pin 8...

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All my part numbers are right. And I'm sorry to zombify this thread, but no one else has any write ups on this so I wanted to keep it relevant. And I'm really excited to put my ebrake where it is supposed to be. Any help would be lovely.
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So, I'm willing to bet the pins in the write-up are not right, maybe someone can back me up here: 84c08f5s-960.jpg

 

It looks as if pins 1,2,5,6,7,9,11,12 are used on the new switch. After lining up the pin locations that Brunzo used and comparing my new switch, I assume he just mixed up 8 with 9 and 10 with 11. I'm a little scared but I'm gonna hook it up this way and pray I don't fry a brake controller. I still might take the old one off and check resistances on those pins compared with the new one, but I may be too lazy. I will report back with results.

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Well OK, its been a while since I worked with car wiring schematics clearly. Got the new switch pins backwards because the plug pin numbers are the mirror of how they should be hooked up. Duh. Brunzo's instructions are perfect. Luckily no blown fuses or anything, just didn't work. Just wanted to document my idiocy I guess. It works now. Putting panels back on now. Thanks to brunzo! Cost: about 85 usd including the wire and pin kit.
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Yes sorry the explanation how to read subaru wiring diagrams is located at first pages of wiring section of manual. I thought everyone is familiar with it.

 

Im glad that you made it.

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