2007-2009 Air Pump Delete with CEL codes and ECU Fix-Pix too

Mike, you're of course right. Atmospheric pressure reading is nonsense and so is MRP. Car runs fine even over pass roads but I'll reinstall the gutted sensor anyway. Thanks.

So what are you doing to get around the smog shop "seeing" the deleted codes and tune? I'll have to smog for the first time when i pay my registration next year.

I don't do anything and I haven't failed an inspection yet.

so, I was changing my oil and doing a general inspect on the car last night, and on the back of the head on the drivers side is a chunk of cast aluminum that I believe is leftover from the air pump delete, and looks useless.

 

i'll have to get a pic of it (hands were a mess last night, so wasn't about to pull out the phone), but my block off plate is on the end of this cute little cast pipe, and it looks like I could just remove it and put my plate right on the block, and shave off maybe another 100 grams from the car.

 

I didn't see it in the "pile of removed crap" in the first few posts, which is why i'm asking if I need it.

 

i'll also have to see what I can see on the passengers side, but I imagine it's not there, cause i'm pretty sure that's where that cute little welded pipe came from, as I guess the turbo makes it a little tight to replicate the cast part on the passenger side.

 

 

EDIT: I think you're looking at the end of the cast part in pic "air pump 8" and "air pump 9". and it goes towards the center of the engine, then angles back towards the plugs, then right angle into the head. has a very similar looking mount on the head, and looks super easy to remove from below with all the space available behind the head on the drivers side.

Edited July 28, 2015 by Flinkly

Post a pic. But you should be able to remove it all.

Top left is where the delete plate and "gasket" are, and it looks like it routes down to the right, then back to the left and into the head. Seems like i can put the cap right on the head vs. the end of this fancy pipe.

 

 

Sent from my XT1028

You cam remove the cast "pipe" and block off the head.

I figured. Didn't want to remove it and realize it has a dual purpose. I also wanted to contribute to the "this is what you can/will remove" picture.

 

And thanks again for the great thread and information available here. It is all super helpful, and not just this thread.

 

Sent from my XT1028

I figured. Didn't want to remove it and realize it has a dual purpose. I also wanted to contribute to the "this is what you can/will remove" picture.

 

And thanks again for the great thread and information available here. It is all super helpful, and not just this thread.

 

Sent from my XT1028

 

Yep pulled mine off too. Still haven't gotten the passenger solenoid off. Have to pull the stupid manifold on the 07+ cars....

Yep pulled mine off too. Still haven't gotten the passenger solenoid off. Have to pull the stupid manifold on the 07+ cars....

You don't have to (i didn't), but it will make it 95% easier, i'd assume. Alot of different tools to try to get it, alot of blood, alot of curse words. If you pull it with the manifold on, the key is to remove the studs it's on first.

 

Sent from my XT1028

You don't have to (i didn't), but it will make it 95% easier, i'd assume. Alot of different tools to try to get it, alot of blood, alot of curse words. If you pull it with the manifold on, the key is to remove the studs it's on first.

 

Sent from my XT1028

 

Well I will be pulling my manifold off to swap in my TGV deletes and ID1000s so I'll just do it then

one last thing:

 

since the LGT/OBXT (at least MY08) has this thick-flanged cast aluminum pipe on the drivers side instead of a thin-flanged (5mm) steel welded pipe like on the passenger side, you will need new bolts to put a delete plate on the drivers side.

 

I say this since not all kits come with bolts and KSTech (who has nice parts, no disrespect intended) states that you can for sure re-use the original bolts. this might be true for WRX and STI, but not LGT or OBXT (at least in my experience with my MY08 OBXT).

 

I also don't know what length or thread the bolts need to be, but even at KSTech, they only charge an additional $3 for the bolts, so not a big deal to order em up at the same time (it only sucks if you don't order them and shipping costs more than the parts, on top of not being able to complete the install ).

Edited August 18, 2015 by Flinkly

Good point. I ordered new bolts with my kit from KS Tech. I figured it was cheap insurance in case I lost/stripped/broke something while doing the job. Good to know that the new bolts are required.

http://www.infamousperformance.net/storage/happy-veterans-day-pictures.jpg

 

The soldier above all others prays for peace, for it is the soldier who must suffer and bear the deepest wounds and scars of war.

 

Douglas MacArthur

Hi everyone, Tom here from Australia. I installed the Kstech Air Pump Block-Off Plate Set (after a lot of sweat and skinned knuckles ).

But how did everyone disable their pump - just by pulling the relay, or another way?

 

EDIT: Also, I logged the Manifold Pressure against Atmospheric Pressure, and they are only the same with the engine off. Are those values supposed to be logged with the engine running or not?

Keep in mind I didn't remove any of the Air Pump System Components, just used the block-off kit.

 

By removing the relay, I only got one CEL Code (the one for the relay). I disabled that one code and it looked fine after that. Which is good I guess, I thought it'd throw a lot more codes. I guess it does that when removing the whole system.

Edited January 1, 2017 by tom_kauf

Remove the pump and relay.

 

Think about it... the engine pulls a vacuum while engine is running...

Ok thanks fahr_side. Yeah, once I thought about it (after I posted), I realised the values can't be the same with the engine running. So matching values with the engine off is all good.

Mike I PDF'd your thread info and pics, and included a KSTech delete parts link. I also added a few Flinkly-provided bits as well.

 

I also took the liberty of adding it to your first post as an attachment. Please advise if it needs anything, or you want to add anything to it.

 

Thanks again for the perfect write-up and the supporting info pics.

Not a problem Dale. The write up is rather old (I did that one in my old home garage, LOL). There is more than one way to perform the work and you can remove the system or simply block off the ports and leave the parts intact. If there are questions I am still around and try to answer as fast as I can.

Not a problem Dale. The write up is rather old (I did that one in my old home garage, LOL). There is more than one way to perform the work and you can remove the system or simply block off the ports and leave the parts intact. If there are questions I am still around and try to answer as fast as I can.

 

It’s been a long time since you did the delete. Still have the car? Any problems pop up from the delete after words?

I've had my stuff deleted for years and no issue (that i'm aware of). Fully deleted both solenoids and did the dremel work to keep the pressure sensor. KS Tech block off plates and screws.

I've had my stuff deleted for years and no issue (that i'm aware of). Fully deleted both solenoids and did the dremel work to keep the pressure sensor. KS Tech block off plates and screws.

 

That’s great to hear then. Might as well stop worrying and take it off.

Hello Friends,

 

I need your help I have a 2006 Subaru Legacy with problem in Secundery Air Valve.

The check Engine is On and the code P2441 is keep coming up so many time after the ECU reset.

I have Engine EJ204 can i delete the air pump system completely?

 

Regards.

 

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You can. Depending on your state of residence removing the codes may become a problem. Removing the codes can cause the readiness monitors not to set and in Cali this will cause you to fail a smog test.

 

 

 

A LOT of owners have preformed the mod and removed the secondary air injection system.

So one thing that kind of screwed me up in this walk thru. When removing the drivers side solenoid. If you have block of plates from torque solution. You will need to also take off the piece that this solenoid is attached too. Otherwise the plates they give you will not fit. They are meant to go right on the motor. I originally thought they sent me the wrong plates because only the passenger side fit. I don’t if all brands of plates go right to the motor or if some connect to this extra piece but torque solution def does. Here is a pic of what I had to take out. This part was not pictured in the walk thru.

 

 

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There are now several different brands and versions of block off plates. Some go directly on the engine and some dont. Some allow the components to remain while non-functional and some require their removal.