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What did you do to your 5th gen today?? -V4


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How much oil does your air/oil separator catch? My T isn't broke yet but it has some large cracks around the ends of it so I know its on its way out. Can you believe the my dealer told me that part wasn't available? lol. I'll make my own with a brass barb and hose from lowes if I have to. you interested in parting with you spare stew? They only charged me like $30 for it or something like that. If I had the part number I could just order from an online Subaru parts dealer. That's what I've always done in the past with no issue
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How much oil does your air/oil separator catch? My T isn't broke yet but it has some large cracks around the ends of it so I know its on its way out. Can you believe the my dealer told me that part wasn't available? lol. I'll make my own with a brass barb and hose from lowes if I have to. you interested in parting with you spare stew? They only charged me like $30 for it or something like that. If I had the part number I could just order from an online Subaru parts dealer. That's what I've always done in the past with no issue

 

 

I got the street IAG AOS and that one recycles the oil back to the block, so I'm not sure how much it pulls out. I don't see oil in my charge pipe anymore, so it's pulling something out. The Comp version of their AOS vents to the atmosphere.

 

Yeah, the PCV is just taking up space in the garage. Shoot me your address via PM and I'll ship it out to you.

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Congrats on the gains! That was a trip, thanks for taking us along! It was cool seeing all the little things to get to that point, like interpreting and diagnosing from logs and zip tieing vacuum lines and such.

 

It was a fun journey, I’m glad I did it. Ed knows these cars for sure. He finished with it set up as I requested, for spirited driving but safe as a daily driver. Max boost is 18psi. Torque is right where the fun driving is - 3k to 4500 rpm. I highly recommend his services.

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I mounted mine to the tab just ahead of the radiator that doesn't appear to be for anything else, I can get a picture tomorrow if I remember.

 

I think Poconoracing shot me a picture of the same spot on a different thread, appreciate the offer. Seems to be the go to location.

 

It was a fun journey, I’m glad I did it. Ed knows these cars for sure. He finished with it set up as I requested, for spirited driving but safe as a daily driver. Max boost is 18psi. Torque is right where the fun driving is - 3k to 4500 rpm. I highly recommend his services.

 

Congratulations! Huge gains everywhere over the Cobb map. Just shows how much is left on the table with OTS tunes vs a competent tuner.Enjoy the new power!

Edited by MarcoLGT
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I haven't done anything as exciting as boost like posted above but got mine back from the paint shop. Should be able to put her back together this weekend. Then I can start with modding.

 

Couple weeks ago installed Megan coilovers and rear lower control arms and front strut bar brace. Definitely sits better.

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Edited by Locosiete
typo
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Lubed the starter and clutch fork pivot. This is the second time I have done this in a year. At least they are somewhat easy to get to except for the bottom bolt on the starter. My inspection camera really helped on that one.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

am I right in thinking the fork pivot has its own grease nipple?

would greasing it up make the clutch pedal easier or lighter to push in?

thanks

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Bored with the lockdown so looked at the parts I havent installed yet. Decided on the spark plugs for some easy afternoon leisure. Except it wasnt lol!

 

Driver side was ok, did not even have to remove the battery, but it would be help if you have ham fists.

 

Passenger side is easy with the airbox off. Except that someone who worked in this area before positioned the airbox hose clamp where it couldnt be reached from the top, so had to remove a clamp further down the line in the wheel well under the fender liner to get it out.

 

Plugs looked fine, but I'm only at 42k miles or so.

 

sI2bnOR.jpg

 

Yl0PWPT.jpg

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am I right in thinking the fork pivot has its own grease nipple?

would greasing it up make the clutch pedal easier or lighter to push in?

thanks

 

No grease zerk on the fork or ball. That would really help. And if it is dry and making noise like mine was, yes it does make the clutch lighter.

 

I do kinda look forward to a new clutch so this is no longer an issue, and at 95k, it probably will not be much longer. Granted, I don't hotrod the GT, so that helps.

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am I right in thinking the fork pivot has its own grease nipple?

 

would greasing it up make the clutch pedal easier or lighter to push in?

 

thanks

It does not have a grease fitting and with good reason, you would have to remove the engine to get to it anyway. And having a bunch of grease in proximity to the clutch is just a terrible idea. Just use a good long lasting grease when you replace the clutch and you will be fine.

 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

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It does not have a grease fitting and with good reason, you would have to remove the engine to get to it anyway. And having a bunch of grease in proximity to the clutch is just a terrible idea. Just use a good long lasting grease when you replace the clutch and you will be fine.

 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

 

I used high heat grease both times I have lubed it in the last year. Anything you recommend for the next time?

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I used high heat grease both times I have lubed it in the last year. Anything you recommend for the next time?
Synthetic marine grease has served me well in unreachable places. It's super sticky and isnt affected by moisture and heat.

 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

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Stuck my inspection camera up under the rear of the headliner this morning and found the glue pad that failed. It’s pretty tight up there.

 

Others have fixed this, but what glue is best that will hold up with the heat? Would 3M double sided trim tape hold up?

 

e4cca64a367edc434c28ccbc604ee7e2.jpg

 

 

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Finally got around to discretely mounting and wiring in my dash cam. That clip in the A-pillar is a real witch to get free. If anyone has more experience with which fuses are always-on (battery direct) vs ignition-on I don't have a clear sense of which ones are always powered and like a true DIYer found out partway they that I dint have a working voltage meter. Just want to make sure I didn't wire this in incorrectly. I used the "TRAIL/R. FOG" for battery according to an outback forum post.

 

Hopefully it isn't needed for anything other than idiot watching...

 

Edited so photos worked...

 

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Edited by BonfaciosCuredMeats
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I needed battery and ignition+start power when I installed my boost gauge, and I ended up with an add-a-fuse in position 10 (D-OP +B) for battery power, and another one in position 27 (currently empty) for ignition power that stays hot while cranking. The one you chose (position 1) comes through fuse #1 under the hood rather than #17 like position 10 does, but they come out of the same 50A slow-blow upstream of that, so you should be in good shape. That's assuming they didn't change things too much pre- to post-facelift, but I'd guess not.
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