Aftermarket Subwoofer help

So I am a complete rookie when it comes to installing aftermarket audio to a car. I'm going to putting in a dual sub box in the trunk and was wondering if anyone had any pointers as to how to wire it in or can point me in the right direction. I'm sure I'll get some grief for this addition, but I love my music and my bass and the stock system just isn't enough and want more. I'm trying to keep my stock head unit(non navigation) so I'm assuming I will need to add a LOC due to the stock unit not having RCA ports? I'm just trying to get more kick than what I have now. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Edited August 31, 2019 by Legacy2k13

You will need a way to get a signal for the amp.

 

It can either be a line level converter that takes speaker level signal and converts it to a low level signal for your amp's RCA inputs, or just get an amp that takes speaker level inputs directly.

 

Check that your amp has a built in crossover/low pass filter so the sub only gets the low frequencies.

 

Then you will need to run a fused power cable from the battery to the amp, a turn-on signal wire from the head unit to the amp, and ground wire from the amp to the closest chassis ground point.

 

That's basically it.

Edited August 31, 2019 by Scubaboo

So...if you are going through all that trouble why wouldn't you start with an upgraded head unit even if only slightly better, it will have rca outputs and wiring to signal the amp on. You will definitely, IMO at least, want more adjustment than the oem headunit can give especially to be able to adjust the subwoofer output on its own. I wouldn't want it tied to a set of speakers, which is what the oem harmon kardon system does with the deck mounted sub.

True that would be ideal, but sometimes it just isnt important to some people depending on circumstances.

 

There was a time in my life I could not stand a stock system and had to change everything out and add a sub or 2 as soon as possible.

 

Nowadays with better factory systems and having other things to spend on, I'm less inclined to mess with factory audio. At the most I'm in the same boat as the OP wanting to add a sub (but just an 8-10", maybe even a big underseat unit), and leaving it at that.

 

The old me would have a custom full-active DSP SQ system installed by now lol!

Been there and got tired of the weight and Thump.

 

Your going to need an amp to power the subs. Depends on what type of amp or amp's you have there are multi channels and there are mono amp. For the amp your going to need a remote signal and RCA cables and maybe a converter. How are you going to drive your mid's/high's?

 

I'm not a fan of MTX, to me this a low budget system.

 

I had Soundstream, Alpine, JL Audio, Orion, McIntosh, Memphis and Focal in the past.

Edited September 3, 2019 by amusa

I want to keep the OEM HU because I'm currently doing this on a budget. Also, having all the accessories that come with the stock unit(Bluetooth, steering wheel controls, etc) just make getting an aftermarket unit seem like an unnecessary upgrade at the moment. Especially when subs/amps can be hooked up using LOC with the stock unit. I know it'd be easier set up wise, and having more control over everything would be great but it's just not in the budget as of right now.

So with that said, when it comes to wiring the LOC to the unit(CE617U1) does anyone know which wires I'll need to tap into on the white connector? I've done some research and have an idea but hearing from someone who's done this before is always a plus. Or would it just be better to wire it straight into the rear speakers like some people have done?

Yeah for what you are looking for the stock HU will work just fine IMO.

 

I assume LOC stands for Line Output Converter?

 

I dont know the pinouts for your particular headunit, but if I were doing it I would just tap into the any speaker level pair. That's what most all LOC's are designed to work off of anyway.

 

Two 12's is a lot, what are you powering those with? You'll be keeping the gain down with those on a stock system unless you amplify the mids and highs too.

 

MTX is not bad, I had a system with a 12" MTX Black Gold sub in a sealed enclosure that was good with any music I ran through it.

If you are on a budget, I would seriously look at the stock upgrade subwoofer. That would save you a whole lot of time and labor and will give you some thump in the car, not the trunk. I do believe it is plug and play with the stock wiring. Then you can always piggy back a larger amp with its own power and a larger sub.

 

https://www.subaruparts.com/oem-parts/subaru-sub-woofer-h630saj000

Edited September 3, 2019 by FLlegacy

This may help you out with the wiring.

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2014-base-stereo-2014-premium-color-screen-227729.html

Thank you amusa, I should be able to figure out something from there.

Scubaboo- I'm still looking around at different amps, I'm trying to make sure I understand what each one is capable of before buying. As said previously I'm totally new to this, I've done wiring and just about everything else to a car besides upgrading the audio lol. At some point down the road I would like to upgrade everything to get better mids/highs, and maybe upgrade the HU to get a double din, but I just can't afford that at the moment so I'll take what I can get. I'm not looking to make competition level bass, just more than what the car makes right now. I appreciate everyone's input, anything helps at this point lol

Dont worry, picking out a sub amp isnt that complicated, you just need it to have enough RMS power to push your subs cleanly. A class-D sub will be more efficient with the bigger power requirements a sub needs.

 

You need low pass filtering and I suggest remote gain control because of the sub will probably overpower the mids and highs and running back to the trunk to adjust gain between albums and songs gets old. These features can be built in to the amp you get, or part of the LOC, or you can get an active crossover with these features.

 

As you are on a budget I suggest getting an amp that has all of these built in and accepts speaker level inputs directly. This will be cheaper and simplify your wiring too.

Thank you amusa, I should be able to figure out something from there.

Scubaboo- I'm still looking around at different amps, I'm trying to make sure I understand what each one is capable of before buying. As said previously I'm totally new to this, I've done wiring and just about everything else to a car besides upgrading the audio lol. At some point down the road I would like to upgrade everything to get better mids/highs, and maybe upgrade the HU to get a double din, but I just can't afford that at the moment so I'll take what I can get. I'm not looking to make competition level bass, just more than what the car makes right now. I appreciate everyone's input, anything helps at this point lol

 

The best advice I can give you. Go to the audio place and listen to the sound quality from each sub/speaker, etc.

Scubaboo- I'm looking at the boss 1100 watt amp. It's the one that is recommended with the subs. I'm sure it isn't the greatest, you do get what you pay for but seems like it'll be enough for what I'm looking for

^That is a heck of an affordable amp with everything you need for sure! I'm no brand snob but I have my doubts it will put out rated power. I have seen those kind of inexpensive amps run 2 12's before in my boomer days though.

 

My gut feel is that as long as you manage your expectations it will run your subs, especially coupled with a stock system mids/highs.

Yea my brother who's more into car audio than I am told me to go with that one. Everything comes in next week, I'm just trying to prepare myself with as much knowledge as possible. Have always been more about performance of my vehicles than anything, but with the car having the 2.5, not a whole lot I can do in that department lol. But I appreciate all of the input from everyone! This site has been hands down the most responsive I've ever been apart of!

^Good luck with your install, let us know how it goes!

Yea my brother who's more into car audio than I am told me to go with that one. Everything comes in next week, I'm just trying to prepare myself with as much knowledge as possible. Have always been more about performance of my vehicles than anything, but with the car having the 2.5, not a whole lot I can do in that department lol. But I appreciate all of the input from everyone! This site has been hands down the most responsive I've ever been apart of!

 

I got the 2.5 as well, can't really complain about the power. Does what it's meant to do, all while saving $$$ . It's fun to sometimes use the manual mode

I got the 2.5 as well, can't really complain about the power. Does what it's meant to do, all while saving $$$ . It's fun to sometimes use the manual mode

 

Don't get me wrong it's definitely an upgrade from the 91 Accord I was rockin before lol. I definitely missed driving stick as well so I do love that about my Legacy. And there are still a good amount of things you can do cosmetically and I've been enjoying turning this car into my own

Don't get me wrong it's definitely an upgrade from the 91 Accord I was rockin before lol. I definitely missed driving stick as well so I do love that about my Legacy. And there are still a good amount of things you can do cosmetically and I've been enjoying turning this car into my own

 

I've done so many cosmetic mods to mine lol, had some girls checking out the rear end of my car earlier today

So, someone has put the exact same subwoofer you are looking at into a fifth gen Legacy already lol!

 

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2012-hk-w-nav-system-subwoofer-upgrade-213203.html?t=213203

 

I was researching subwoofer options and it happened to come out.

So, someone has put the exact same subwoofer you are looking at into a fifth gen Legacy already lol!

 

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2012-hk-w-nav-system-subwoofer-upgrade-213203.html?t=213203

 

I was researching subwoofer options and it happened to come out.

 

From the pics in the forum you linked, it seems to be a great looking setup! Wonder how much better the audio sounds

^A bit of bass always seems to make a system sound clearer and have a more full range, as long as it isnt overpowering or muddy/boomy, IMO.

 

IIRC the subs were added to a HK system where the stock speakers have their own amplifier, so with a bit of gain matching with the sub amp the system sound decent.

Edited September 11, 2019 by Scubaboo
Gramer

Giving the fact that a year has passed since the initial post on this thread, it would be interesting to get an update on your installation. Some pics would be great too. Reading your initial post I had to wonder why would someone who considers himself a rookie at something, would try to do it anyway, without asking for professional help. I bought recently an under-seat subwoofer for my car after reading a buyer's guide from https://atfulldrive.com/best-under-seat-subwoofer, and being a rookie myself at this, had to find the right people who installed it and everything works perfectly.

Giving the fact that a year has passed since the initial post on this thread, it would be interesting to get an update on your installation. Some pics would be great too. Reading your initial post I had to wonder why would someone who considers himself a rookie at something, would try to do it anyway, without asking for professional help. I bought recently an under-seat subwoofer for my car after reading a buyer's guide from https://atfulldrive.com/best-under-seat-subwoofer, and being a rookie myself at this, had to find the right people who installed it and everything works perfectly.

 

The installation went great! It's funny you say that about doing something even tho I'm a rookie, because all of my friends kept telling me the same thing. To just bring it to a shop. But I've always been eager to try new things. Plus I've been working on cars, bikes, mowers, basically anything with a motor for most of my life. So I can typically figure things out once I have it in front of me.

With that said, I will say the hardest part was honestly taking the center console apart . I was more terrified I'd snap the plastic than I was anything else lol. But once everything was out, the stock head unit came out, I spliced the adapter into the stock radio wiring harness, ran the wiring/cables to the trunk and hooked the amp and subs up. I wish I took pictures while doing it(probably coulda made a decent write up for future fellow legacy owners, but unfortunately the thought never occurred to me while doing this project.

I will say I am very surprised at the subs performance. I definitely didn't think I'd get that much kick out of them, especially since I did stuck to a more "budget friendly" route. But no wires have come undone or anything, original fuse is still with the power wire. Only time I notice an "issue" is when it's freezing outside, the subs take a minute to warm up. And even that I'd say is normal, so really no complaints at all. Oh, except how little room you have when you take the head unit out. That and the radio harness isn't very long so splicing wires in that area was a bit of a challenge, but nothing too crazy. And the best part about all of this, I still have my steering wheel buttons, bluetooth, etc. (I know they make aftermarket harnesses so you can keep your steering wheel buttons, but that's more money lol)

It's a shame subaru decided to make the mount for the stock shelf subwoofer the way they did. It effectively eliminates any possibility of using that shelf to mount a bigger sub that can be used in an infinite baffle setup, with all its ridges and uneven areas. If one wants to do a truly space-saving sub install without a box, you basically eliminate the folding down seat feature.