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Tehnation's Ballin on a budget rebuild!


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Cracked head, they didn't just weld it up ?

 

The race head on the Civic was the Head that Zex Nitrous Systems used to develop there system. It had extensive work done to it and had been repaired a number times from valves being stuck in it. Those single cam 1.6L engine were known to have #3 cylinder issues 25 or so years ago. Every time that Head needed work it went back to Brad at RLZ Race Engineering in, I think it was NC. He was on speed dial... LOL

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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the crack isn't visible from the outside, when I pulled the head, I didn't see anything wrong which had me baffled. I have the old head and just now I tried looking for the crack to see if if a weld was possible but still don't see it. Its internal, can't weld what you can't see. I would rather pay 300 bucks for a used head, rebuilt and reinstalled than to have it welded, I paid for head, and he ate the labor costs. The machine shop i used gave me a really good price for the original work, so I'm not complaining, the guys honest to a fault so it's hard to be upset lol. I couldn't see the crack either, initially I told him the heads were good the first time it was rebuilt, so I doubt they could see the crack as well without doing serious investigation, I can still see the red dye they used to track down the crack, but it is in there. You need a scope to see it. I got a good price for work because I tore everything down, and asked just to reassemble, I only asked him to inspect the valves and replace as necessary. All together i'm at like 2k total for labor and rebuild of the longblock. Edited by Tehnation
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Glad you got the issue taken care of and are happy. I most likely would have done the same thing as you.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Next I am going to do the sti fpr mod, and fpr vacuum line mod. Info in link below, excellent write up! Worth the read for anyone with the stumble. I'm doing the mod because I can't stand this big piece of complicated crap we have. Save some room, makes things a lot easier, and can see your fuel pressure without disconnecting , because for some reason subaru doesn't believe in schrader valves. Will make it easier to install an aftermarket fpr if needed in the future as well.

 

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/install-04-07-sti-fuel-pressure-regulator-fpr-and-use-263825.html

 

Ordered :

 

inline fuel pressure gauge

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GQNVDDW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

gauge adapter

https://www.ebay.com/itm/5-16-Barb-8MM-fuel-pressure-gauge-adapter-with-1-8-NPT-port/184199811997?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

 

sti fpr Subaru part# 22670AA351

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I799IFY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

2 x turkeylord tees from company 23, amazon sells one for 20 bucks, and you can get 2 for that price straight from manufacturer, they are 8 or 9 dollars a piece!

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/subaru-blue-tee-replacement-218783.html

 

http://www.company23.com/VacuumT

 

Got these assortment of clamps and spring clips as well

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HJ2X5LK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075LDN3T7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Edited by Tehnation
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But thats for the future first I have to deal with this leaking heater core .... so I have to pull the dashboard change the heater core, then put my entire interior back together.... For some reason I find this work 100x's worse than everything else, I've been sooooo dragging this out to avoid it, but now everything else is done....

 

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20200722_142931.thumb.jpg.d784977cd3fe8dbb43d355f862f37b45.jpg

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Some older pics of the rotors, ss lines, new calipers, and my cheap coilovers. 10 gauge wiring for fuel pump, 0 gauge wire for amps and fuel pump, and some random stuff.

 

20190824_153627.thumb.jpg.97a9a1f716ce63d8f9f05e533f9aa755.jpg

 

20190824_153557.thumb.jpg.d8134c785515dbc5b83b0c3f0c2930cb.jpg

 

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20190824_153524.thumb.jpg.24f85608e480763537e9d28d31bc6727.jpg

Edited by Tehnation
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I didn't expect anyone to see it, especially when I'm holding it in my hands and don't see it lol. I'll chalk it up to the subaru gods, I haven't given them offerings in a long time, so it was overdue!

 

i went through like 10 shirts over 2 days, sooooo hot outside....

 

I have to come up with a game plan to pass inspection after registration, i can't drive the car to tuner until it gets both things, and it wont pass inspection without the tuner.... i know check engine lights are going to come on...

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dashboards out.... windshields now cracked...

 

Things to add to the list:

 

New windshield....

 

Looks like getting the dash out is only like 25 percent of the battle.... getting to the heater core is an entirely different animal...

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Interior is done, seats and all. Also just finished installing the sti fuel pressure regulator with inline pressure gauge and moved the vacuum line and blocked off the one on cylinder 4. The why, in the link below.

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/install-04-07-sti-fuel-pressure-regulator-fpr-and-use-263825.html

 

Got it insured, but registration is going to be a pita because of covid, by appointment only, so I had to scan and upload all these forms. Now I have to wait for the DMV's phone call.... wow, if theres anyone I don't want to wait on its the DMV lol.... god damn covid...

 

Also fixed my trunk release, using this guys method, I used a zip tie instead.

 

All I have to do is connect all the wires in my trunk to my 2 amps and 12" subs to get some musak!!

 

20200803_114239.thumb.jpg.6e53ad7fbee94e9335c6b8eafd817374.jpg

 

20200803_114211.thumb.jpg.217b42dd7de237c275298f4b4be2adca.jpg

 

20200803_120336.thumb.jpg.0aa30628b331422690e03e19a7ceabad.jpg

Edited by Tehnation
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Max, do you have a picture of the ac tag thats on the front support bar, above radiator and condenser? It has all the data for amount of refrigerant etc. Mines gone after accident. Or anyone reading!
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Max, do you have a picture of the ac tag thats on the front support bar, above radiator and condenser? It has all the data for amount of refrigerant etc. Mines gone after accident. Or anyone reading!

 

I thought about getting a picture for you, but you do know what was going on last evening about that time, Hurricane Isaias. It was kind of windy around here.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Had to order a new amp, my 4 channel which was powering my 4 speakers seems to be shot.

Got this amp, excellent price, good brand.

 

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_236THND754/MTX-THUNDER75-4.html?tp=115

 

I was out in the storm trying to setup some sound, and putting some vacuum on my ac system. Hopefully there is still vacuum on the system when I check it later tonight.

 

How was it by you, my house still has power. My city was a mess, it was like a maze to get out to the main roads, power lines down everywhere.

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