New owner

Hey everyone,

New LGT owner here - 56k miles, all stock, bought as a daily so no crazy plans. Love driving it, but I have some concerns (I don’t know if this is the right place but thought I’d put it out there)…before it was brought in for trade it had the P0021 & P0011 codes and was a little low on oil from 2 oil leaks (dealer fixed both and changed oil, codes went away after during test drive). Also read about the banjo bolt filters on these and asked that they be cleaned/replaced/removed (whichever they thought was best). About after 1 week of driving, P0011 code came back close to home so I limped it home (didn’t get into boost, kept shifting around 2000-2500). Didn’t hear anything catastrophic from under the hood but I’m afraid there may be turbo damage…from what I’ve read it’s hard to tell without taking the uppipe off and looking for shaftplay…any thoughts? It’s going up there tomorrow (I’ve had ~2 weeks now) to have both OCVs replaced. Should I be concerned with a blown turbo? Thoughts?

Edit: Anyone dealt with Turbo Concepts in Michigan?

Edited March 28, 2019 by SoobyDoobyDoo

Have them pull the downpipe and check the turbo for shaft play to see if the turbo is blown. Otherwise you might just have bad OCVs. Ditch the banjo bolts.

Thanks for the reply - I was going to have them do that and maybe change the oil too, and check the oil lines to make sure they're not clogged. Anything else I should be aware of? If it is blown then I'll have them drop the pan and replace the oil cooler and check the pick up. Just hoping it doesn't come to that.

If it is blown and there is metal in the pan when dropped, oil cooler and pick up are the tip of the iceberg. That's ynasb time.

 

 

Having said that, I've had the code simply as a result of an oil delivery and path issue, i.e. OCV may fix it.

I agree with the banjo bolt thing. I didn't ditch them and ended up paying the price later. If your turbo is blown, you'll know. Either the sound or the smoke, or both. If its just the code I'd recommend getting and oil pressure gauge and a boost gauge. I know its your daily stocker, but there's some power is just knowing things are ok in those two big departments. I'm thinking the drivers side AVCS banjo might be the culprit, either way, get rid of the banjo filters.

Sorry to hear about your troubles. Hopefully you caught it early enough, if it is a turbo failure; I bought my current wagon right as the turbo started to fail (though no codes yet), and managed to save it.

 

No experience with Turbo Concepts, but Horsepower Techs in Clinton have a lot of experience with turbo Subarus, and are good guys all around. After you're done getting this sorted, you should datalog the car to establish where it's at. I'm local (Wixom), and would be willing to help if you want, assuming I can find some time between work and school.

definitely check the passenger side OCV. when that malfunctions it starves the turbo's oil supply.

Thanks for the replies everyone-I’m hoping it’s just paranoia. I’m going to replace both OCVs and have the banjo bolts removed. Scopes that was definitely on the to-do list-op, ot, and boost. I’d rather know what’s going on and it blows my mind these cars didn’t come with those stock. AwfulWaffle thanks for the reference but I’m in Indy-just doing homework on what’s available if it comes to that. Turbo Concepts has a vf40 housing with Mitsubishi cartridge that they sell, so I was wondering if anyone had dealt with them. Talked to them the other day and great to talk to very informative and didn’t just try to sell me something.

PO021 and PO011 are the dreaded code of death on the 4th generation legacy gt short block.

 

hopefully, yours is an exception.

That's what I've gathered from hours of profusely researching...hoping the excellent maintenance schedule from the PO will be my saving grace...

I have to agree on removing the banjo bolts’ filter screen. When i got mine out i was shocked the amount of debris that had gotten the screen cogged over 10 years of ownership.

So update. Dealer has confirmed turbo is blown. Service advisor had to confirm but looks like they’re wanting to quote a new turbo and up-pipe (looks like cat took out turbo). Read through blown turbo wiki but looking for advice from people who have had blown turbos on post-blown turbo experience. At a min I’d like to:

Replace oil pan, oil cooler, oil pickup, all oil lines

Possibly ocv valves? (Just replaced)

Black stone oil analysis

After they replaced ocv valves car acted just fine...no God-awful noises, no CELs. Did short test drive w/master tech <.25 mi).

Once cars back together, OCI at 250 miles, then 500, then 1000, 1500, then regular to flush. Anything else anyone can think of/suggest? This is assuming the short block isn’t toast during this whole process. Oh and op, ot, and boost gauges and catless upp.. Thanks for any advice.

Edited April 20, 2019 by SoobyDoobyDoo

Will the dealer install a catless up pipe ? You don't want a catted one installed.

 

Have to oil return hose replaced too.

 

If the turbo has not made any noise and there was no or very little contact of the compressor blades to the housing, then you should not need to worry about the oil pan and oil components.

 

Pull the turbo apart before you spend money to have them do work you may not need.

At 142,000 miles after the same codes, my vf40 just kissed the compressor housing ever so slightly. I did not replace any oil components.

 

Oh yea, leave out the EGT sensor too and put a 2.2k ohm resistor in the EGT connector on the right fender.https://www.google.com/search?q=2.2k+ohm+resistor+subaru+legacy+gt&oq=2.2k+ohm+resistor++subaru+legacy+gt&aqs=chrome..69i57.16112j0j8&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

 

See post 17 for what mine looked like. https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/142-000-miles-oem-turbo-168561.html

Edited April 21, 2019 by Max Capacity

Thanks for the reply, Max. I doubt it...they'll probably want OEM parts in there. My wifes cousin has a friend who runs/tracks an E85 tuned STi so I think I can get a hold of him for help on installing a catless. That's definitely on the list of things to buy. Good to know about the oil pan - it just didn't make boost so from what they've told me sounds like the cat disintegrated into the turbo...still waiting for info (at this point all I know is the turbo is blown). Sigh.

When I lifted off the throttle during the test drive there was a slight pinging sound...he seemed to think that was the wastegate? Just curious what other people have to say. I've read about the resistor mod for the sensor delete...thought about seeing if I could find the mating connector itself (or one that would plug in) to make a little harness with the resistor so it wasn't just in the one connector with whatever against the elements. Thanks for the links, I'll update once I hear back.

You just stick the resistor into the connector and put duct tape over the connector. That will last for years.

 

You may want to look into having the car towed from the dealership, before they get to much time into the car...

Found out tonight they’re covering it! Caveat: it is a rebuild, which is fine with me. I get it, they’re not going to want to spend more money than they have to. They’d also be cool with me supplying a replacement turbo...so now the question is which would be better for longevity (new turbo vs rebuild) and reliability? Obviously the housing is a factor for a rebuild. I’ve been looking at Midwest turbo connections’ VF40 replacement (don’t want to push my luck with a 16g that requires a tune) but any recommendations for replacement cartridge assemblies? I’d be curious to see what they go with. I don’t think they’d cheap out because I’m sure they wouldn’t want the car back in 3 mos but is there a difference between an autozone cartridge and one from say Midwest turbo connection (they’re closer to me since they’re in WI) besides the thrust bearings? I don’t even know who the dealers supplier is/would be since IHI doesn’t sell replacement parts. Thanks everyone for putting up with all my noob questions...but I’m pretty excited to be getting my car fixed. I’ve been really missing it, despite all this...

surprised they will not get a vf40 from there supply chain.

 

JmP6889928 is the trusted member here you we all send our turbos to for a rebuild.

 

PM him for answers.

Bringing this one back for an update. Car's back together - turns out (and this is me re-hashing so take it with a grain of salt) that the bearings on one side were getting loose and starting to let the turbines (???) play. Gonna see the CHRA tomorrow, it basically had play on one side. Housing was OK, they were able to re-use. Why is a mystery - they said it didn't appear to be oil starved or have cat pieces coming into the turbo (they checked and said it looked solid - still see a new uppipe in my very near future). Here's what I found odd - they're going to drive to make sure everything's ok, but they said if there's any issues, should popup within <100 mi....I'm planning on an oil flush (50mi, 100mi, 250, etc OCI for the next few, and mostly staying out of the boost for a while) after I get it back and Blackstone OA...thoughts? I guess I'm just being a cynic, Murphy's law doesn't play by any set rules and just looking to see what the voices of experience have to say, if anything. Thanks for listening.

Flushing oil every few miles is completely pointless. If the engine bearings are done they are done and you need new engine. If they are not, you should be fine.

 

Oil cooler is important piece to replace after turbo & engine failures, but if it got compromised, so most likely has engine.

O just went through the same problems. Replaced the turbo after a blocked catt blew it. Then a p0011 code that blew my motor. Just replaced the motor and turbo, got new ocv, and a Invidia catted dp, and bp'd the tmic. It runs beautiful now and sounds amazing. I don't see anything the matter with a catted dp. Especially if you have emissions test in your state that needs to be passed.

Thanks for the replies, kinda what I figured. If it’s go gonna go, it’s gonna go but if I can save it I’d rather go down trying then completely give up. The turbo didn’t grenade or anything at least. Guess we’ll see. What’s your mileage? Edited May 7, 2019 by SoobyDoobyDoo

My motor and turbo went at 152,000