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New year, new build...v.3.0...R?


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I got the Performance Distributors coils installed along with some new Denso boots. I have no misfire or starting issues anymore. I'm using the stock EJ25 dwell settings with a .025 plug gap. Boost is at 20 psi on 91 octane pump gas and it runs great!

 

Virtual dyno graph is uncorrected and density altitude that day was 5800'.

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  • 2 months later...
I want to take your whole setup and put it into a Forester as daily, so I can go all out on my spec. B Love the progress.

 

A Forester would be really cool and fun. I may have to look into it one day. Or a Baja.

 

Got most of the meth injection plumbing done. I might get it wired this weekend. There's a lot to wire up to get the Hydra to control it and all the fail safes working properly.

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  • 1 month later...

That's a shame. Can't wait to see what numbers you pull with this thing.

 

(just in the process of building my own, after sitting on forged parts for 2 years

 

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so currently living vicariously through you)

 

Also sent you a crazy PM. Cheers!

Edited by Roadruner
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  • 2 weeks later...
Looks like I can see a closed deck in there. What else is going in your build?

 

Yep, closed deck, ported heads (mostly exhaust work, as the intakes are already monstrous) + everything that Outfront had on the shelf for it (rods, pistons, bearings, studs, valves/springs).

 

Aiming to stick about 90lbs (so 900hp potential) worth of turbo/airflow on it, and make ~470whp at about 18-20psi on pump.

 

Next stage (depending on what happens first - boredom with a 'measly' 500hp or losing my license) would be an ECU + flex fuel setup and shoot for 600whp. Past that point, it'd probably need some gearbox work and that gets expensive and noisy very quickly, so I doubt it'll ever go there :icon_cry:

 

Really just after a decently fast, reliable setup with good mileage. Not particularly fussed about making max power or using E85... yet :lol:

 

So, while mine is in pieces, I'm eagerly waiting to see your results and success!

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  • 1 month later...

Hey man, yeah I guess I'm due for an update. Been busy with work and a bunch of other things.

 

I have seen that twin turbo video. Looks like a cool setup.

 

So I was having issues with high RPM oil pressure drop for a while and it finally caught up with me. I took a friend for a spin and munched a rod bearing. I feel pretty stupid because I can setup a failsafe for oil pressure, but I just didn't get around to hooking the sensor up to the ECU.

 

I had the engine rebuilt and now am trying to figure out why it's happening. I haven't had a chance to really get on it yet with the new engine, but we think that it's either an aeration issue or a drain back issue. If I can't get it sorted out then I'll have to build a dry sump setup.

 

So that's pretty much everything that happened since the last time I posted.

 

Any updates with your engine?

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That sucks! Sorry to hear. So you were able to reuse everything then? Turbo, heads, etc..?

 

You could always get in touch with Turbo Yoda :spin:. He may know the answer.

 

 

I put the engine back in the car last Saturday. Currently finishing the install of the Radium Engineering AOS. Then put radiator, DP, Dom's cylinder #4 cooling mod, fill up fluids, and time to crank/start :eek:.

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  • 1 month later...

Quick update. The Hydra failed on me and support was near non-existent. Wired in a Haltech ECU in with the factory ECU. Should have done this to begin with. Car should pass an OBDII test once I'm finished.

 

Once I get everything finished up I'll post the pinout on how to hook all this up.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iLPyzNGCLz0&feature=youtu.be

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I'm pretty disappointed with how things played out with the Hydra. It was simple and worked great until it didn't. The Haltech is far superior in every way. The only downside is it isn't plug and play.

 

The factory ECU is in there to keep the car's CAN bus happy. Everything associated with the engine is wired to the Haltech.

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okay I really want to hear more about this Haltech wiring of yours when you have some time.

 

Same here, especially if it means I can get away with a similar swap in Cali.

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I got everything up and running well with the Haltech. It is amazing and everything I thought the Hydra was going to be. The car runs better than ever.

 

Setup includes a Haltech Elite 2500 with basic wiring harness, CANbus expansion hub, GPS speed input module, single channel wideband controller, CANbus gauge (this thing is awesome), and an I/O expansion box.

 

I attached some pics of how I wired mine up and an alternate wiring that I think would work if you wanted to do a simple wiring setup that only gives the bare minimum to the Haltech. You may need to do some trial and error to make sure everything works with it and confirm the wiring for your particular car's harness. This simple way would keep the OE ECU in control of the throttle, fans, relays, CEL, A/C, SI drive, ect. This way you could keep cruise control. I can confirm that the 2.5L ECU can control the larger EZ30R throttle just fine. You could get away with a Haltech 2000 and single channel wideband and be up and running for $2000.

 

My goal was to take everything I possibly could away from the factory ECU and only leave the OE ECU there to keep the car's canbus happy. I did run into a couple issues that I couldn't figure out. The fuel pump wouldn't stop priming with the factory fuel pump controller hooked up. The Haltech would modulate it just fine when the engine was running, but on initial key on it would prime and not stop. I just decided that with this build I don't really need the controller and hard wired the fuel pump to the battery, letting the Haltech control the relay.

 

Next issue was the cruise control light wouldn't stop flashing. I tried for awhile to figure this out, but got tired of connecting and disconnecting wires. I decided since the Haltech doesn't support cruise that I wouldn't need the cruise light. Out came the bulb. Problem solved.

 

ABS, VDC, speedometer all work. There are no persistent warning lights in the gauge cluster. I'm very please with how this all turned out.

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Edited by BrandonspecB
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This simple way would keep the OE ECU in control of the throttle, fans, relays, CEL, A/C, SI drive, ect. This way you could keep cruise control.

 

My goal was to take everything I possibly could away from the factory ECU and only leave the OE ECU there to keep the car's canbus happy.

 

Does this mean the car will pass an OBD2 scan? If so this opens the door for those of us dealing with smog.

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