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What did you do to your 4th gen. Legacy today? Vol - 10


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I put some second skin sound deadening on the front passenger and driver side as I will finally be putting in some new speakers I ordered from crutchfield along with the iA tuning speaker mounting brackets. I should have done this 10 years ago hahaha. But I like horsepower performance more than stereo upgrades. What a huge difference. Will finish rear doors today.

 

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Replaced the rear wheel bearings yesterday as the left rear was getting noisy enough to be quite irritating. Can't complain too much as they lasted 185k miles.

 

The ole terd now has SKF branded hub/bearing units on all 4 corners. If they last even half as long, I will be suitably impressed.

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I put some second skin sound deadening on the front passenger and driver side as I will finally be putting in some new speakers I ordered from crutchfield along with the iA tuning speaker mounting brackets. I should have done this 10 years ago hahaha. But I like horsepower performance more than stereo upgrades. What a huge difference. Will finish rear doors today.

 

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

 

I did the same when mine was getting repainted. One of the things I loved the most from it aside from the sound benefits was that 'luxury car' feel when opening/closing the door with the added weight from the material.

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I put some second skin sound deadening on the front passenger and driver side as I will finally be putting in some new speakers I ordered from crutchfield along with the iA tuning speaker mounting brackets. I should have done this 10 years ago hahaha. But I like horsepower performance more than stereo upgrades. What a huge difference. Will finish rear doors today.

 

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

 

Been wanting to do this myself but like you I also like horsepower too much :spin:

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I’m curious how rusted out this wagon was? I haven’t seen really any 4th gens that were rusted past the point of return already. Got any pics?

 

No pics easily retrieved but both rear fenders rusted through badly, right front strut tower (can see the spring/strut easily though the 1" hole) plus now the grinding sound from the rear brake backing plates rubbing against the hubs due to swelling with rust. Not to mention the mechanic whom I trust told me the rear diff, brake lines and just about everything else under the car seemed suspect and I may not be able to get it through inspection without cost prohibitive repairs.

 

Also, I just replaced the gas tank on the other 05 lgt (ouch) so that was probably next along with who knows what else. The thing was a maintenance hog already, but I kept it because the engine and transmission were still fine, and I tend to hang onto cars, and it was fun to drive.

 

This car I bought used at 61k and the previous owner may not have washed the salt off... like ever, and it spent some time in upstate NY and elsewhere in the rust belt. Unfortunate but wcyd. Got 10 years and 100k out of it and it still runs great but the grinding sound and the info from the mechanic made us want to dump it quick. Which we did and not to a person since we are nice people. Don't buy that one! Vin ends in 343. Silver LGT Limited 5 mt wagon w black interior.

Edited by Wagonation
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Is there any specifics dealing with business insurance? My older son's OB got all scraped by a commercial vehicle over the weekend. Thankfully no one was in the car as it was parked, and the commercial vehicle driver admitted his guilt, and local PD has a report with all that info.

 

 

 

My concern here is that first it's commercial vehicle, but since I intend on just dealing with our insurance that's hopefully irrelevant. Biggest concern is potential write-off, it's 2005 with 238K on it... Both right doors, rear quarter panel and bumper are scratched. Damages are cosmetic but still.

 

 

 

I don't want to lose the OB, had the engine rebuilt on it completely couple of years back (short block and heads), new clutch as the same time. Son just dropped 1.2K on new wheels on it too. :redface:

2005 LGT Wagon Limited 6 MT RBP Stage 2 - 248K

2007 B9 Tribeca Limited DGM - 258K

SOLD - 2005 OB Limited 5 MT Silver - 245K

SOLD - 2010 OB 6 MT Silver - 205K

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Don't take this the wrong way but that will be a total loss. Easy estimate is $500 per panel but depending on how bad that quarter is, it can be much much more.

 

Typically, if you're going to go through your insurance, you'll pay your deductible, or in the event of a total they'll pay you less your deductible, and then after everything gets settled on the back end, your deductible will be reimbursed. If the other company is fast and easy, you might not have to worry about that part.

 

Go ahead and start thinking about buying it back and that sort of thing. A fleet vehicle is no different than any other at the end of the day and if going through your insurance it's completely irrelevant. Because of the mileage and year, I'd guess book value to be 4-6k based on where you live. Most insurance companies base value on local comparables so it's hard to argue evaluations.

 

Pm me if you need more help. I worked as an adjuster for geico for a while in utah.

 

 

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Sold the super rare JDM "Titan" strut tower brace. The new owner txts to say "I was putting on that bar and I was thinking 'WTF weird' then I realized JDM means right hand drive".

 

 

I chose radio silence.

 

 

 

You know you have a "real" JDMaf part when it doesn't really fit your USDM car. It's even more fun when you have to remove a bunch of stuff to get to the "wtf" head scratching...

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Where'd ya get the replacement actuator?
I did a google search with the part number. I ordered one from a local parts distributor ( Tasca Parts ) for about 60bux shipped to my door..

 

It comes with the bracket, but the video I watched showed the replacement done by unscrewing the actuator from the bracket.

 

Scotty

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Don't take this the wrong way but that will be a total loss. Easy estimate is $500 per panel but depending on how bad that quarter is, it can be much much more.

 

Typically, if you're going to go through your insurance, you'll pay your deductible, or in the event of a total they'll pay you less your deductible, and then after everything gets settled on the back end, your deductible will be reimbursed. If the other company is fast and easy, you might not have to worry about that part.

 

Go ahead and start thinking about buying it back and that sort of thing. A fleet vehicle is no different than any other at the end of the day and if going through your insurance it's completely irrelevant. Because of the mileage and year, I'd guess book value to be 4-6k based on where you live. Most insurance companies base value on local comparables so it's hard to argue evaluations.

 

Pm me if you need more help. I worked as an adjuster for geico for a while in utah.

 

 

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Thanks man. I was never expecting to sell it really, with age and mileage it is not the effort and time and parts we put in it. OB runs fine though, I took it to Maine/NH few times and my son drives all around New England. So all I really want it to keep it until either rust or real bad accident takes it.

 

If it gets totalled, does that mean the car will have salvage title? And what happens to repairing it - does it fall on me with the insurance just sending me the check for market value minus the deductable? How and when do I get to buy it back from insurance, and what the expected cost would be?

2005 LGT Wagon Limited 6 MT RBP Stage 2 - 248K

2007 B9 Tribeca Limited DGM - 258K

SOLD - 2005 OB Limited 5 MT Silver - 245K

SOLD - 2010 OB 6 MT Silver - 205K

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My own car is still sitting at the dealer, new ignition lock is supposed to come from SIA and it looks like it's taking a bit more time than expected. So I am jumping between wife's Tribeca and middle son's 2010 OB.

 

Speaking of 2010 OB, my son and I had a real fun experience replacing one of front wheel bearings on Thanksgiving day. Son's ended up calling it "bearing from hell". I kept remains of one bolt that made this a 2 day job vs typical 2-3 hours, and we changed a few wheel bearings with this kid already.

2005 LGT Wagon Limited 6 MT RBP Stage 2 - 248K

2007 B9 Tribeca Limited DGM - 258K

SOLD - 2005 OB Limited 5 MT Silver - 245K

SOLD - 2010 OB 6 MT Silver - 205K

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Thanks man. I was never expecting to sell it really, with age and mileage it is not the effort and time and parts we put in it. OB runs fine though, I took it to Maine/NH few times and my son drives all around New England. So all I really want it to keep it until either rust or real bad accident takes it.

 

 

If it gets totalled, does that mean the car will have salvage title? And what happens to repairing it - does it fall on me with the insurance just sending me the check for market value minus the deductable? How and when do I get to buy it back from insurance, and what the expected cost would be?

 

 

 

Gotta get better at this. Tl;Dr:

Repairs are on you

Car will need a salvage title

You'll be paid value of vehicle minus deductible minus salvage value

You'll let the adjuster know this stuff, once they bring up that it's a total loss

Local laws on salvage vary by area but it's still likely legal to drive and insurable

 

The salvage value is difficult to estimate. We had set years for really old stuff that we didn't have to get a value for. Like anything 99 and older was a salvage value of $150. But it will depend on the company. The adjuster will call the salvage company and ask and they'll say it runs and blah blah blah and I've seen on newer vehicles values of 10k but I'd expect it to be so low that it's worth keeping since it's still driveable.

 

Yes more or less. The process for me on a car like that was basically write the estimate, get a value, talk to the customer. You'd tell me you want to keep the vehicle and I'd get a salvage value that I'd deduct from your payout. You bring me the title, I make the check out to the title holder less and deductibles and you're done with me.

 

Getting the salvage title is on you and each state has it's particular rules. When a car is totaled it gets a salvage title. That doesn't mean much more than a buyer beware sticker really. Geico and Allstate both insure salvage vehicles and geico writes estimates and does insurance rates the same whether it's a prior salvage or not.

 

The repairs would be on you but you'd have cash in your pocket. Not much different than if you wanted the check for the estimates instead of me writing them to the shop (some people request that). The thing to remember is that, I can't go to the pull and pay and get a door for $50 and slap it on your car. Even if I got that door, I'd pay the shop to fix any dings, it would get repainted, and any internals would be stripped and replaced with your own. That's $500+ to the insurance company but I actually just looked at my local pull and pay and there's an 05 silver outback there!

 

I haven't seen the vehicle but usually in these situations of retaining it, you're not worried about it being concurs perfect. So if it were me, I'd pay a body shop to repair any unibody damage (quarter panel) so it doesn't rust due to neglect or half ass repairs. Use local junk yards, car-part.com, and the forums here and other places to find a cheap door the right color. Bolt it on and call it a day. If you don't mind doing the work you'll end up ahead possibly, and have a title that has a sticker on it.

Edited by Nonamedude
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I concur with no name dude.

 

I wrote up some tips on dealing with insurance here.

 

 

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/insurance-and-you-266208.html?

 

Commercial insurance typically moves slower than personal lines. Coverage is more complex and finding the right people to talk to at the company is more difficult. Going through your own carrier mitigates all of that though and makes it your insurance company’s problem.

 Brought to you by Pfizer

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Where'd ya get the replacement actuator?

 

From a post by csaari in a vent-specific thread. Almost all can be bought on eBay or really anywhere.

 

I recently replaced the vent mode actuator on my 2005, and it took me a while to figure out which part number I needed. The parts source I used showed one set of part numbers for the 2005 actuators, and another set for 2006-2009 actuators. From looking at the other threads here, and doing my own research, I came up with this:

 

Vent Mode Actuator

72131AG09A (2005)

72131AG24A (2006 - 2009)

 

Temperature Blend Actuator, Passenger

72131AG11A (2005)

72131AG26A (2006 - 2009)

 

Temperature Blend Actuator, Driver

72131AG12A (2005) (might be out of production, not sure if there's a replacement)

72131AG27A (2006 - 2009)

 

Air Re-circulation Actuator

72131AG08A (2005)

72131AG23A (2006 - 2009)

 

There are discussions on this forum about whether or not the actuators are interchangeable between the '05s and later years, but I haven't seen any confirmation that they actually are or aren't.

 

I only have experience with the mode actuator, and for my 2005, I used part# 72131AG09A. Interestingly enough, it was about $20 cheaper than part# 72131AG24A, the mode actuator listed for the 2006-2009 cars. That makes me think there must be something different between the two, but I don't know....

Edited by amm203
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From a post by csaari in a vent-specific thread. Almost all can be bought on eBay or really anywhere.

 

I'm fairly certain the '06-09 part numbers just supersede the '05 numbers. I can specifically confirm that the driver's side one I ordered was ...G27A and it was a perfect drop-in fit on my '05 (Sept. '04 manufacture date).

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My first post after being off the forum for a couple years, but put a full set of PowerStop z26 rotors and pads and replaced a bad rear passenger caliper on my LGT about a week ago. Was a hell of a job. Had a seized bracket bolt on both rears but finally managed to get them off and get the job done. Satisfied so far with the new brakes.

 

 

 

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Finally got around to ordering winter tires. Going with a set of Michelin Alpin PA4's to wrap around the hyperblack Rota Gravels. Should be getting mounted and aligned on Friday. Excited to be going back to a dedicated winter/summer setup rather than running the Pilot Sport A/S 3+'s all year round. It's not a bad tire in the cold but once you get into 1"-2" of snow they get a little squirrely.

 

Only downside is running out of room in the garage for all this rubber and alloy. 3 of our 4 cars will now have 2 sets wheels/tires.

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