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front wheel bearings, 2020


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Revisiting which front hubs work.

 

Years ago Moog would not work on the front of our cars. Other much cheaper Hubs seemed to have issues.

 

Doing a recent search I find the price of quality front hubs seem to increased to the $150+ range. Moogs were $201. OEM $230.

 

 

Has anyone had good luck with the cheaper models ?

 

 

 

https://www.google.com/search?q=front+wheel+bearing+2005+subaru+legacy&source=lnms&tbm=shop&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwj8kqW1k8rpAhXymHIEHTGsBSEQ_AUoAXoECA0QAw&biw=1280&bih=881

 

 

Timken, SKF, NTN have been proven to work well.

 

another search, notice lower on the page lot's of links.

 

https://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts/WC/18220-01295892.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=ff&utm_content=YN&utm_campaign=PartsGeek+Google+Base&utm_term=2005-2014+Subaru+Legacy+Wheel+Hub+Assembly+NTN+Front+05-14+Subaru+Wheel+Hub+Assembly+13+10&utm_source=google&utm_medium=ff&utm_campaign=PartsGeek+Google+Basecid=6774379819&aid=79287199093&keyword=306519374541%3A%3Apla-306519374541&kid=306519374541&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI__ng5ZjK6QIVhIXICh3ktAP0EAQYAyABEgLgu_D_BwE

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

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I will only buy SKF, NSK or BCA (NTN front/NSK rear) bearings from now on out for the legacy. The last set of Timken bearings I changed didn't last too long and the quality of the housing had decreased. This was rear bearings, however.

 

BCA WE60548 is the part number for the front.

BCA WE60998 is the part number for rear.

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I only do OEM for wheel bearings. For the amount of work involved to change it I don't want to take any risks.

2005 LGT Wagon Limited 6 MT RBP Stage 2 - 248K

2007 B9 Tribeca Limited DGM - 258K

SOLD - 2005 OB Limited 5 MT Silver - 245K

SOLD - 2010 OB 6 MT Silver - 205K

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I put a Timken on the RF a couple months ago and it's fine. $88 on Rockauto right now.

 

Funny the total cost from Rockauto or Amazon is the same, $102.07 with shipping and tax. Yet Rockauto has a$7.00 lower cost for the hub.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Agree about the cost of these. They are used across a large range of years. You would think on a volume bases the cost should be less.

 

When I replaced the RF years ago, I think it was $120.

 

I thought the Detroit Axle ones were suspect at best. Not really what you wanted like a lot of the cheaper ones.

 

If you use anti-seize on all the threads, they should come apart fairly easy next time.

Edited by Max Capacity

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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The nature of wheel bearing life means that it's always going to be a crapshoot, at some level. If you go with some trusted brands, you should generally be fine.

 

Obviously go OEM if you don't mind paying the money, but given that the OEM bearings aren't exactly taking anyone to 200k miles, there might not be a reason to pay a premium for them. NTN is the OE supplier for a lot of bearings on the car, so if you can find those, go for it. Timken, SKF, NSK should all be fine. If given a choice for 'premium' bearings, go for it.

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I installed Detroit Axle all around a couple years ago without issue (well, except for having to get a shop to press out the fronts as they were rust-welded together). They're cheap enough that I wouldn't mind ordering and doing the job again if they prematurely fail. Actually, planning to replace them every 5 years instead of every 10 might save me the hassle of having to press out the fronts from that buildup over time.
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I'm sure it's in written in a walkthrough on here somewhere but torquing the axle nut is a critical step most don't do. Some run them on with a gun until their tight which can lead to premature failure. The manufacturers make you preload the bearing which is done when torquing down the axle nut.
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I'm sure it's in written in a walkthrough on here somewhere but torquing the axle nut is a critical step most don't do. Some run them on with a gun until their tight which can lead to premature failure. The manufacturers make you preload the bearing which is done when torquing down the axle nut.

 

Too answer the next question, 162Ftlbs.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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