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BL/BP Legacy GT Meaty Tire Thread


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I needed a roll and pull all four corners. The front tires rubbed on the coilovers (RCE T1) so I had to max the positive camber of the factory bolts, and then use camber plates to bring the front camber back into the negatives.

 

The rears still rub where the trim piece meets the quarter panel under full compression.

 

Right now I'm on 17x9+38 on 245/40/17. Rolled and slight pull on the rear and unmolested out front. OEM front camber bolst maxed out at -1.5 camber. Now I'm concerned I'm rubbing the T1's. On really big bumps sometimes I'll hear a rubbing sound upfront, I figure it was the fenders not the coilovers :confused:

 

I also have the whiteline bump steer correction kit and all control arm bushings replaced, including the one for caster.

Edited by Gabo
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Nice, mate; wha

 

front 275 on 18x9 et 42

rear 245 on 18x8 et 50

single-exit dual-tip (dual layer, rolled, 100mm; nice!) invidia exhaust (from 2015-gen wrx)

custom suspension

 

ps. body unmodified; also no, rub

 

please let me know what you think, all.

 

omg thankss

TvWoXo5.thumb.jpg.fe6ba886a741468e2d8d43cabd8befc2.jpg

Edited by darthqwo
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Hmm; just a point to note with the setup.

 

With front tires so huge--22mm deeper on the inside and 38mm more outside (stock tire is 215 45 18 et 55)--center differential seems to lock up the outer axle when turning out of the parking lot at full lock at slow speed. If someone has any input here or comments it is appreciated.

 

Suspension details; front and rear struts are 04 outback; the spring perches are higher by 40mm and 25mm, respectively. Despite lowered springs, the front is riding a bit higher than the rear, so I guess I be fillin that space by upgrading the tires to size front 275 40 18 and rear 245 45 18 at the next change.

 

although a bit late to the game I do believe i have the largest tires on the forum; comments?

 

btw it is a legacy 3.0r; more pictures to come

 

unbelieve omg

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What’s the circumference of front and rear setup?. Do you know how Subaru awd works? Do you know why nobody else runs staggered setups? Edited by Code
"Striving to better, oft we mar what's well." - Bill Shakespeare - car modder
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initial post omitted aspect ratio but this could be inferred from post that follwoed:

275/35r18et42

245/40r18et50

sidewall height is equivalent to 215/45r18et55, whih is stock on 3.0r limited

 

fyi; my axes are heri hd axles; and it is stock ride height

so you think it might be an issue with the rear differnetial causing lock up; even without staggered front-rear sizing this can be achieved by running 1.5" spacers, which ive not seen being warned against on subarus

Edited by darthqwo
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initial post omitted aspect ratio but this could be inferred from post that follwoed:

275/35r18et42

245/40r18et50

sidewall height is equivalent to 215/45r18et55, whih is stock on 3.0r limited

 

fyi; my axes are heri hd axles; and it is stock ride height

so you think it might be an issue with the rear differnetial causing lock up; even without staggered front-rear sizing this can be achieved by running 1.5" spacers, which ive not seen being warned against on subarus

 

It’s the circumference of your tires that matters, not the offset of your wheels. What is the circumference of your front tires and the circumference of your rear tires WHEN MOUNTED on your staggered setup? I highly doubt that they are identical.

"Striving to better, oft we mar what's well." - Bill Shakespeare - car modder
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the offset matters here since it is large in my setup since the inner wheel will rotate more than the outer; the differentials can tolerate a range of difference otherwise it wouldn't be able to turn.

 

on the current setup it has a difference of 3.5mm, but i've run 225/45r17 with 2015/50r17 front-rear staggered another another subaru without issue. so i computed this for my planned upgrade (penultiamte post), and the differnece is only .5mm; so with this detail i guess i will being going up a size

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if you do another comuptation my diametric difernce is equivalent to a difference of 2.2 32nds inches in front-rear tire tread difference; but ive seen this to be ok Edited by darthqwo
my numbers come from computing diameter, not circumference; but anywa it is a better comparison with the tread diffence i am
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Throw your “computations” in the garbage. Run a string around them and measure it then come back. You’re binding your diff because your setup has too much variation between Front and rear. It doesn’t jive with the awd system.

 

Or don’t. The car will eventually prove it.

"Striving to better, oft we mar what's well." - Bill Shakespeare - car modder
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i will just try my own idea and put on more meat since it is only an issue with parallel parking and full-lock steering; if someone has input on possible damages from this in the parking lot id appreciate your input--when it happens the outer axle locks up and the outer front tire does a thudding skid on the pavement while the other three tires roll fine; it is more pronounced when backing up

 

it is more useful if your comments would be less sarcastic; even from the start seems you only to want to mock the tires because you thought they wouldn't work with subaru awd; im rather surprised your mocking turns into a lesson for you about staggered size equivalences--im pretty sure there are many examples of this in the thread

 

suspension was explained already above

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I'm genuinely curious why you would go through this hassle (not to mention risk) when there are plenty of setups that would fit properly straight out of the box or with minor suspension and/or fender modifications.
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it was time for new struts and still had the factory wheels--twelve years and counting. the locking up was unanticipated obviously and only emerged once i backed up the first time--I am justing letting the forum know since it is probably a first.

 

It is a factory suspension, and there is even more space on the inside of the wheel--of course, you owuld have to agree with me it is offset causing issue--but now i know not go further in; the motivation being trying to contain as much fo the tire as possible inside the body without fender flares. Plus, it all fit properly without any modifications, spacers, or extended stud bolts; it clears the fender, body lines, and bumper--not much hassle unless you also include good planning and measurement.

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The fact that a single wheel is locking up makes me think that's not really a center diff issue. I'd pull the front wheels off and look for signs of rubbing.

 

275 is a lot of extra width, so I wouldn't be surprised if the shoulder of the tire was just binding up against the wheel well. Or maybe it's the wheel binding against the control arm. Look at everything. I bet you'll see something.

 

And/or... you could just pay very close attention to how much you can turn the wheel before you hear or feel any drag. Then don't turn the wheel that far anymore. And then keep us posted about how long your center diff lasts. :) My guess is that your tire diameters are close enough that it won't actually be a problem, but it's just a guess.

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275 fit in front, however, they do rub on tight turns. On a sedan the rears have more room not sure why. If you got coils, you'd have more room but 275 still aren't going to fit without work. The trailing arm gets in the way.

 

Diameter isn't the issue. It's circumference that causes the drivetrain failure. Subaru says 3% difference is max for short distance. Ideally all four tires are same circumference.

 

Not sure why you have 275 in front and 255 in rear? If you could stick the rear, you can throttle oversteer like a typical rwd car. Putting in a lsd will fix front hooking up. Or use slicks. Then again, at the limit, throttle oversteer is the only way to get through a turn. Nothing like smoking the front tires while the rears are hooked up, especially when understeer is pushing you off track...

 

2012 I put 275/30/18 on 18x9.5 rpf1 on a 2005 wagon. Drove around the parking lot. Scraping every where.

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The “computation was “2.2 32nds inch” ... a decimal in a fraction. I’m not sure I trust anything after reading that.

 

Are the front and rear tires both the same model?

Edited by Code
"Striving to better, oft we mar what's well." - Bill Shakespeare - car modder
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The fact that a single wheel is locking up makes me think that's not really a center diff issue. I'd pull the front wheels off and look for signs of rubbing.

 

275 is a lot of extra width, so I wouldn't be surprised if the shoulder of the tire was just binding up against the wheel well. Or maybe it's the wheel binding against the control arm. Look at everything. I bet you'll see something.

 

And/or... you could just pay very close attention to how much you can turn the wheel before you hear or feel any drag. Then don't turn the wheel that far anymore. And then keep us posted about how long your center diff lasts. :) My guess is that your tire diameters are close enough that it won't actually be a problem, but it's just a guess.

 

it is 275s front and 245s rear; they are bfg track tires taken from a porsche 911 4s. The reason my 275s don't rub is large 18x9et42 offset only possible with the outback struts; from my measurement, even coilovers would require spacers. I will get in a picture one of these days...

 

It is the outer wheel on a turn that seems to drag; so if turning left then skids the passenger side wheel, which is then further away from the control arm, and yet there is space to fill. The front tires clear everything. So you're saying if it were a locking center diff, both front tires would be skidding? It's possible, but i doubht this what is happening; I will have to pay closer attention and see if there is anything else it is hitting. Actually my initilal thought had been that there is a maximum difference that he two front axles can turn without regards to the rear differential; is this a possibility?

Edited by darthqwo
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