Moderators BarManBean Posted January 22, 2012 Moderators Share Posted January 22, 2012 A lot of folks here seem to be asking the same questions, but in the wrong way. Questions seem to include bashing of the '05 model year, bashing of stock turbos, oil lines, blah blah blah, but all are asking what to do to increase reliability of the LGT drivetrain+. I'm interested in putting together a list of "reliability modifications" for LGTs. I'll start off, please chime in and I'll change the original post to reflect input. Remove cat from up pipe, if necessary (05/06 model years included cat in up pipe)Any up pipe that fits an 02-11 STI will fit your 05-09 LGT (though not all of these pipes will necessarily be catless) [*]Install upgraded oil lines (Infamous products recommended by many) [*]KillerB oil pickup to prevent starvation [*]Check/top off engine oil on every fill up. (yes, this is a 'mod'. if you don't do this you won't get much sympathy when your turbo dies due to oil starvation. these engines eat oil, get used to it) Do an oil analysis (i.e. Blackstone) once you settle on an oil/filter combination that works for you. Should confirm that you OCI is adequate. [*]For those with automatic transmissions, drain/refill transmission fluid every 5-7k miles...Alternatively, complete a full 5EAT DIY flush once every 30k miles--this may be easier since it's only once every couple of years for most people (DIY Flush info here: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthrea...sh-197248.html.) [*]Let your engine/oil/other fluids warm up before you race a civic. for rationale please see notes from #4. it's a mod, don't be a 'tard. [*]Drain/refill differentials every 30k miles. For 5EATs this will include both the front and the rear differentials. For 5MTs this only applies to the rear differential (front differential shares fluid with the transmission). [*]Replace timing belt, tensioners, water pump at or before 105k miles. [*]Flush brake fluid every two years (at a minimum) [*]Stop driving your car. Other potential "trouble spots" that are not "reliability related": Disconnect DRLs to prevent shortened headlight lifespanInspect fuel lines for deterioration.CV boot under downpipe, recommended to check regularly (i.e. during oil changes) for wear.OEM LCA bushings known to tear; many aftermarket replacements available.Replace swaybar endlinks with aftermarket parts to reduce "clunks" in the front end.A new tune (pro, e-tune, AP) can help to prevent burned valvesInstall guages for oil pressure/temp and boost to track any significant changes and diagnose problems as they arise.Check wheel bearings prior to 100k miles / 8 yrs. Subaru will replace noisy bearings through these service intervals under warranty. let the fun begin. Updated: 1/24/12 "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drift Motion Posted January 22, 2012 Share Posted January 22, 2012 AFAIK the catless uppipe is only STi, no WRX included... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SCHM1AN Posted January 22, 2012 Share Posted January 22, 2012 For 05-06, you can yank the DRL plug underneath the dash. I burned out a set of headlights in about 9 months with DRLs enabled all the time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HAMMER DOWN Posted January 22, 2012 Share Posted January 22, 2012 Want your turbo to last as long as your motor. In short, check you oil level often & top as needed. Use whatever oil & filter that will protect for the OCI's your running. OA's is the only way you know that your oil & filter is up for the challenge. After that IMO no OA's are needed. Mike Mileage:331487 Retired/Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BAC5.2 Posted January 22, 2012 Share Posted January 22, 2012 Want your turbo to last as long as your motor. In short, check you oil level often & top as needed. Use whatever oil & filter that will protect for the OCI's your running. OA's is the only way you know that your oil & filter is up for the challenge. After that IMO no OA's are needed. Mike This is good advice, coming from someone who has the pudding to show for it. [URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Polo08816 Posted January 22, 2012 Share Posted January 22, 2012 A lot of folks here seem to be asking the same questions, but in the wrong way. Questions seem to include bashing of the '05 model year, bashing of stock turbos, oil lines, blah blah blah, but all are asking what to do to increase reliability of the LGT drivetrain+. I'm interested in putting together a list of "reliability modifications" for LGTs. I'll start off, please chime in and I'll change the original post to reflect input. Remove cat from up pipe, if necessary (05/06 model years included cat in up pipe)Any up pipe that fits an 02-11 WRX/STI will fit you 05-09 LGT [*]Install upgraded oil lines (Infamous products recommended by many) [*]KillerB oil pickup to prevent starvation [*]Check/top off oil on every fill up. (yes, this is a 'mod'. if you don't do this you won't get much sympathy when your turbo dies due to oil starvation. these engines eat oil, get used to it) [*]For those with automatic transmissions, drain/refill transmission fluid every 15k miles...seriously, it costs $4 for the proper bit and $30 for the fluid every 15k miles, not that big a deal. do it. [*]Let your engine/oil/other fluids warm up before you race a civic. for rationale please see notes from #4. it's a mod, don't be a 'tard. [*]... let the fun begin. I lol'd at this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted January 22, 2012 Author Moderators Share Posted January 22, 2012 a few additions to OP. "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SCHM1AN Posted January 22, 2012 Share Posted January 22, 2012 This is good advice, coming from someone who has the pudding to show for it. Agreed, a UOA is a very good "check-up" for your car. It's amazing what those guys can tell about the health of your car from a simple piss-jar-sized sample of old oil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pillboy Posted January 22, 2012 Share Posted January 22, 2012 Agreed, a UOA is a very good "check-up" for your car. It's amazing what those guys can tell about the health of your car from a simple piss-jar-sized sample of old oil Maybe they just make up shit...how would you know otherwise? It is still ugly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SCHM1AN Posted January 23, 2012 Share Posted January 23, 2012 It's very possible, but you could say that about a lot of professions. I would think that Blackstone, for instance, would not be in business after almost 30 years if they just made stuff up Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob-2 Posted January 23, 2012 Share Posted January 23, 2012 Fuel line inspection. They appear to crack Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted January 23, 2012 Author Moderators Share Posted January 23, 2012 Fuel line inspection. They appear to crack Don't know that I'd call that a reliability issue. Obviously it's a problem if it happens, but I wouldn't recommend everyone to run out and replace their fuel lines "just in case". If others chime in I'll add it to the top. "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CapnJack Posted January 23, 2012 Share Posted January 23, 2012 Inspect CV boot under downpipe every oil change. It tends to be the first to go since is so close to the heat. Boost check the car yearly to check for intake leaks that can cause a lean condition. Front and rear dif oil changes every 30,000 miles (these are often overlooked) Get rid of OEM brake pads as they tend to deposit on the rotors causing a warped rotor sensation. Replace LCA bushings with aftermarket Whiteline or AVO with offset caster bushings. Reduces swaying on the highway from high side winds and helps with cornering ability. OEM ones tear very easily. Replace swaybar endlinks with solid or Rallitek oem style to eliminate clunks in the front end when going over bumps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SSpeed Posted January 23, 2012 Share Posted January 23, 2012 Fuel line inspection. They appear to crack Huh? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted January 23, 2012 Share Posted January 23, 2012 Have the car Tuner by a Pro, that can fix the flaw in the OEM map that can cause it to burn valves. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bhinak Posted January 23, 2012 Share Posted January 23, 2012 Boost check the car yearly to check for intake leaks that can cause a lean condition. If its before the turbo it could cause a lean condition, but after the turbo you are losing boost and the engine thinks its getting more air than it actually is. That causes a rich condition. Think like having a BOV that constantly vents to atmosphere. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CapnJack Posted January 23, 2012 Share Posted January 23, 2012 If its before the turbo it could cause a lean condition, but after the turbo you are losing boost and the engine thinks its getting more air than it actually is. That causes a rich condition. Think like having a BOV that constantly vents to atmosphere. Correct! I was thinking more along the lines of the turbo inlet failing. The thin rubber they use on it can crack/tear easily. A rich condition generally won't hurt the engine and you will generally notice in in MPG or performance, but a lean condition can cause very bad things to happen with very little warning. An annual overall system leak check won't hurt either way though! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Berzerklo Posted January 23, 2012 Share Posted January 23, 2012 I would put gauges on here. I still can't believe that they sell turbo cars without boost gauges. Oil pressure, oil temp, A/F are all good as well if you have the space for them. These don't make your car 'more reliable' but can help you keep an eye on your car's operations and spot problem earlier/help diagnose problems down the line. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LosAngelesLGT Posted January 23, 2012 Share Posted January 23, 2012 Agree with boost and wb afr. Meh on oil pres/temp. If pressure is bad its likely too late by the time you notice. Temp might be more useful to have EGT. All argueable except boost and wb afr imo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaxx4k Posted January 23, 2012 Share Posted January 23, 2012 which section of the fuel line cracks often?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
authenticamd Posted January 23, 2012 Share Posted January 23, 2012 If you have an oil pressure gauge, then can't you extrapolate the temperature based on pressure? At least that was my justification. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcraw84 Posted January 23, 2012 Share Posted January 23, 2012 If you are under 100,000 miles have the rear hub bearings checked if noisy (covered under warranty because of recall) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scoobydoobie Posted January 24, 2012 Share Posted January 24, 2012 AFAIK the catless uppipe is only STi, no WRX included... ALL 06+ WRX have catless UPs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drift Motion Posted January 24, 2012 Share Posted January 24, 2012 ALL 06+ WRX have catless UPs. learned something new... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob-2 Posted January 24, 2012 Share Posted January 24, 2012 which section of the fuel line cracks often?? The ones above the motor. Known issue. Tends to happen below 30f. You'll smell the fuel. No way to miss it. About $500 out of pocket. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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