LGT Engine Concern

Ok all, first off i haven't posted on here as much as i would like to, especially during my build last year etc. Have gathered much needed info here for sure! Thanks everyone for their threads/posts!

 

So to my car/engine, i have a 05 LGT Wagon that i bought in the fall of 2017 with a spun Rod bearing. I installed a new OEM short block last year. During this i replaced all of the recommended; Oil pump, Oil Cooler, timing components, water pump etc. I did not replace the pan but cleaned it very well multiple times before installing, and disassembled and cleaned the AVCS Cam Gears, and solenoids. The heads were rebuilt at a shop who are very familiar with Subaru's. During the same time i did purchase and install a new CHAR for the stock vf40 turbo since those bearing looked very suspect.

 

Everything was torqued to spec, and triple checked before assembly (My OCD). Almost forgot, i have it tuned by Tuning Alliance. I followed break-in procedure's using dyno oil and changing oil After first warm-up, 200 miles, 500, then 1500 (Changed over to Synthetic at this point).

 

Ok so now to my concerns: After each change i inspected the oil, i would find some sparkle in the oil no chunks, a very light gray film on my Magnetic Drain plug (no worry). This has been the case on each change to this point in which i now have 7,000 miles on the engine. Yesterday for the 6th change i grabbed enough to send off to Blackstone to have a Oil Analysis done, along with verified oil pressure is perfect at Cold idle, hot Idle, and 3,000 Rpms and up.

 

No unusual noise while at idle or revving while parked, have a somewhat suspect noise at the 3000-3300 range but i've read where it could be where the AVCS action can give off some maybe extra valve noise?? Or unsure if the way my exhaust resonates through the car with windows up.

 

Sorry for such a long Post, just wanted to see if i should be very concerned or wait to see what the Analysis comes back with.

 

Thanks!

wait for the analysis report from Blackstone.?

 

those glitters are better than chunks or bits and pieces.

 

no worries.

Yeah. Just wait for their report and let us know.

Thanks, as many can relate having to do another rebuild this soon would be very difficult financially and finding time. I am trying to stay positive. Ha

 

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

I wish you the best of luck. my STI is making a noise at 3000 rpm after a rebuild and i did find glittery bits in the oil filter on my 500 mile change so i know the feeling.

 

I'm still not 100% convinced it's rod knock, but it probably is. that'll be my fault as i didn't 100% measure clearances between the crank and rods/mains.

 

 

what does yours sound like?

I wish you the best of luck. my STI is making a noise at 3000 rpm after a rebuild and i did find glittery bits in the oil filter on my 500 mile change so i know the feeling.

 

I'm still not 100% convinced it's rod knock, but it probably is. that'll be my fault as i didn't 100% measure clearances between the crank and rods/mains.

 

 

what does yours sound like?

 

Well it could very well not be in your case, I've heard many people say around that rpm the Avcs does some thing with the Valves. Monitor for knock with Access Port if you can, and install oil pressure gauge if you haven't already.

 

It sounds like a bit of valve noise to me, have to really listen for it though, my exhaust is fairly loud so it could be resonating some.

 

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

Updating Old Post, got another Sample into BlackStone, they see the Copper levels have increased, they are stating no Lead has been found which is good to an extent.. They are suggesting Turbo Bearings could be going. No unusual noises that i can hear. Parking car until i can pull off the Down pipe to check for shaft play etc. Question i have for others out there is if anyone has had journal bearing from a Vf40 do the same, and was able to replace the turbo, replace oil pan, and turbo feed lines then do a few oil flushes with everything turning out ok in the long run? At this point i cannot afford to do a complete rebuild/new shortblock in the near future.

Pull that turbo and send it off the JMP6889928 he's been the go to guy for rebuilt turbos for years, or see if Mike has time to rebuild it. He will also rebuild turbos.

Pull that turbo and send it off the JMP6889928 he's been the go to guy for rebuilt turbos for years, or see if Mike has time to rebuild it. He will also rebuild turbos.

Thanks Max! I was actually going to PM you to ask a few other questions anyways since we have about the same setup. But yes, planning on checking then pulling the Turbo, just a bit worried how much made it through to the rest of the engine etc.. I have been cutting open the oil filters and all finding very very minimal specs of copper. I actually messaged Mike at TA since I have my current setup tuned by them.. verified the vf52 setup on stock fueling and all will work.. he confirms this, obviously not trying to get the most out of it at this time.. but room to grow etc.

 

I might message that guy you and a lot mention regarding rebuilding Turbos to see if he has any Vf52's for sale.

 

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

Yes the vf52 will be very happy on stock fueling. Mine has been on stock fueling for almost 140,000 miles. I did upgrade the fuel pump a couple years back because the fuel tank was leaking.

 

I know Mike is busy so may be JMP will be a quicker turn around. Check the for sale forum here for a turbo too.

Yes the vf52 will be very happy on stock fueling. Mine has been on stock fueling for almost 140,000 miles. I did upgrade the fuel pump a couple years back because the fuel tank was leaking.

 

I know Mike is busy so may be JMP will be a quicker turn around. Check the for sale forum here for a turbo too.

That's good to hear! Tuning plays a big part! Impressive!! Did you buy your Vf52 new? I will be pulling downpipe this weekend to check for shaft play etc.. Definitely wanting to go the 52 route.. Did you loose a lot in the lower rpm range?

 

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

Bought the vf52 new from AZPinstalls.com the owner is a Mike also. I called him before 10AM on day, had the vf52 at my house the next day. I installed it, drove to ESP Dyno's up in Sterling MA, Mike showed up and Tuned the car.

 

The vf52 spools at 2400rpm and makes good power up top.

Just going to throw in my 2 cents here.

 

 

 

I have a vf48 which I'm told is similar to the vf52. Stock fueling, but I did swap out the fuel control module for an STI one. At my power levels that doesn't even matter though. I'm running water methanol (Alaska only has 90 octane), FMIC, EBSC, Downpipe, and TGV delete. Got it e-tuned with my taxtrix and she runs so good. I'm also on a new OEM ej257 shortblock with rebuilt heads because somebody ran her low on oil and bad things happened.

 

 

 

Get the vf52, it'll really wakes the car up. But be sure you get it tuned.

Just going to throw in my 2 cents here.

 

 

 

I have a vf48 which I'm told is similar to the vf52. Stock fueling, but I did swap out the fuel control module for an STI one. At my power levels that doesn't even matter though. I'm running water methanol (Alaska only has 90 octane), FMIC, EBSC, Downpipe, and TGV delete. Got it e-tuned with my taxtrix and she runs so good. I'm also on a new OEM ej257 shortblock with rebuilt heads because somebody ran her low on oil and bad things happened.

 

 

 

Get the vf52, it'll really wakes the car up. But be sure you get it tuned.

Thanks for the Info! A lot of good options out there, makes it difficult to decided, but feel like it will be the vf52.. will meet all of my needs for a long time.. especially if I want my drivetrain components to have a chance. Have already contacted the tuner at Tuning Alliance to confirm some things, will definitely have my current tune revised once the 52 is installed.

 

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

Update, Turbo off and inspected.. some in and out play, pulled apart and journal and thrust bearings looked ok to me. So unsure if the turbo is the cause. Did find something about the oil pan very interesting when removed, the way it's all laid out were the drain plug screws into these pans it has a enclosure around it on the inside of the pan, with a few large holes for oil to make it's way through, however this area sits a good half an inch or more above the bottom of the pan. This engineering doesn't allow that oil at the bottom to make it's way out.. not to mention if any break-in contamination is present since everything settles and all before draining. So pan removal and cleaning after break-in may be a requirement. Just wanted to share the findings I'm sure others already have found.

 

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

I had glitter for quite a few OCI after rebuild. Still running. More than 50K on the build.

Have never done a blackstone test yet. Cant wait for the cold start clatter with these forged pistons coming up.

 

Like you have seen there are many locations for non ferrous metals to hide in these motors.

 

Long story short, if you put a new turbo on it without replacing the Pan and Oil Cooler?

Your at risk. But... Could end in no issues at all if you do a few short changes.

If going this route an inline oil filter to the turbo is a must. I use the infamous V2 kit as one option. There are other ways to do it. But save that new bearing from eating that fine material.

I had glitter for quite a few OCI after rebuild. Still running. More than 50K on the build.

Have never done a blackstone test yet. Cant wait for the cold start clatter with these forged pistons coming up.

 

Like you have seen there are many locations for non ferrous metals to hide in these motors.

 

Long story short, if you put a new turbo on it without replacing the Pan and Oil Cooler?

Your at risk. But... Could end in no issues at all if you do a few short changes.

If going this route an inline oil filter to the turbo is a must. I use the infamous V2 kit as one option. There are other ways to do it. But save that new bearing from eating that fine material.

 

Good to hear yours is still running fine, it truly is amazing all of the areas Contamination can hide in the EJ Motors. I would like to go with at least Forged Pistons next time i have to rebuild!

 

I actually did put new Pan on, and cleaned the Cooler very well with a Proven method. I then flushed oil through engine using a pressurized tank. First step was flushing oil with Turbo/OCV banjo bolt removed allowing oil to flow out that port, then plugged that location and allowed oil to flow through rest of engine with Pan off. (will try to upload pics). I have now installed my new IAG Turbo/OCV oil lines.. will keep turbo Banjo bolt filter installed during two consecutive oil drains, then remove filter to see if any contamination is present. Will be monitoring Oil pressure as well. This will be the most i can do to determine if in fact i have something else going on or not.

Thats one way to do it... Just that filter if it's going to get clogged it's going to starve the turbo. This is why my preffered was external. The V2 Filter Mike had spec was 40 micron and larger than the stock filter so there is plenty of capacity for oil to find it's way to the turbo. Regardless it sounds like your on the right track.