Project Phoenix: 05 Wagon Restoration

Yeah, when I first tried to play with those ______ QD's I started looking for a easier way.

Unfortunately the 08 is a different set up. It's a quick connect at both ends with a fuel damper where the earlier generation had that big block. It was quite confusing because I couldn't find anything on the new style. I assume it changed along with moving to a top feed system.

 

 

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Unfortunately the 08 is a different set up. It's a quick connect at both ends with a fuel damper where the earlier generation had that big block. It was quite confusing because I couldn't find anything on the new style. I assume it changed along with moving to a top feed system.

 

 

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I'll have to check my Spec B some day to see what it has.

The engine build has begun. Last weekend we pulled the old engine off the stand (I only have one) and put it on a rolling dolly. We pulled a bunch of stuff to transfer over first; valve covers, oil cooler, fuel injectors, etc. and still have a bunch of stuff on the topside to go. We installed the new flywheel and mounted the engine on the stand in advance of our buildup.

 

This weekend we started assembly. A killer-b pickup tube and baffle tray were installed before throwing on the oil pan. I had intended to use a killer-b pan as well, but when we put that on, one of the drain plug holes stripped out and will need to be welded before it can be used again. That was a bummer. We finished today by installing the oil pump, water pump and oil cooler, but that's about all we can do until the heads arrive. Until then we'll start working on putting the interior back together.

Still waiting on the cylinder heads to show up, and with any luck they'll arrive later this week. With that, on Sunday we spend some time on the interior bits. I'm still missing about half of the black interior conversion, but we will be putting it together as is for the time being so it can be driven. Emily spent a good amount of time patching a hole in the drivers side carpet and then thoroughly cleaning it with multiple methods. All this effort really paid off as the carpet almost looks new and is ready to be installed.

 

During this time, I put the gas pedal back in, along with some clutch/brake pedal covers, installed a new passenger blend door actuator motor and a replacement cabin air filter. At that point, being done under the dash, I put the new black lower dash pieces in place and detailed/treated the dash with some interior care products. In pictures it may not look like much, but it made a huge difference as my dash was looking quite dry.

Dang, the carpet looks great. I need to do whatever methods you did to mine.

While you have the passenger side of the dash ripped out, now is the chance to 'easily' replace any a/c mode actuators that might be making the coffee percolating noise

Holy shit, I never knew what that was LOL

Pretty much sourced everything I need to make this wagon a roller; and its about time I get my dining room back to functional status.

 

This weekend my girlfriend and I got a significant amount of work done on the project, which is impressive since I've been completely limited to one arm activities. Needless to say, she did most of the work... Day 1: we got the rear brake hard lines installed; all new Subaru lines for the whole vehicle. Then came the new replacement fuel tank, including all new hoses. Still missing a discontinued bracket for the pressure control valve on the back of the tank, and waiting on a clamp for the charcoal canister hoses, but those can be installed at a later date. Finally we fitted the new rear subframe in place. Worked for about 5 hours Saturday and really enjoyed ourselves.

 

I am really thankful for your documentation of this project. I have a similar build happening right now and am sitting at the torn off point and was wondering how to proceed through the prep of the underside and fuel tank. I think after seeing this the fuel tank is coming out.

Can you tell about where and how much you acquired the tank for?

You mentioned the undercoat was a good alternative to oil-based? What is the benefit there? Safer to put on? Does oil-based work better?

You got "new" subframes? Are they actually NOS or are they good used ones?

I have broken down two more Legacy for fun and profit and have a warehouse (not auto related but, I use to store personal stuff too), I also have powder coating as an integral part of my vocation. If you ever need rando parts like that fuel tank bracket, let me know, I don't need to sell parts like these and if you or any other member ever needs something like that I'd be happy to send it or have it coated and sent for shipping and coating costs.

 

Great build and thanks again for all the great pics.

PS do you happen to have part #'s for the brakelines and what was the judgment on replacing them? Rusty? I don't have rust on mine, should I just leave them?

Let me know what you need to finish your black interior. I've got a whole black interior here I'm about to pull out of a car.

Can you tell about where and how much you acquired the tank for?

You mentioned the undercoat was a good alternative to oil-based? What is the benefit there? Safer to put on? Does oil-based work better?

You got "new" subframes? Are they actually NOS or are they good used ones?

 

Great build and thanks again for all the great pics.

PS do you happen to have part #'s for the brakelines and what was the judgment on replacing them? Rusty? I don't have rust on mine, should I just leave them?

 

- Fuel tank came from rock auto; part#SU3B, cost about $280 shipped.

 

- Rubberized undercoating isn't as good as oil-based products; they aren't as durable or "sticky" as they don't have an acid to etch onto the underbody surfaces. The reason I went rubberized is because it provides a bit of a sound deadening effect and is much cleaner/more precise to apply. Oil based gets all over everything and looks messy, not to mention you typically have to reapply every few years. The rubberized stuff looks factory and is very balanced, but it will scrape off if you're rough with it.

 

- The rear subframe is a brand new subaru part; you can still order them from the dealer. I wanted a new part to get brand new bushings. The front is a rust free used part I re-painted. As it doesn't have any bushings to degrade, I didn't see the need to buy a new part.

 

- All of my brake lines had some level of rust on them; the center section and the rear brake lines specifically had almost rusted through at the usual spot above the fuel tank. Some people don't bother with a full replacement since you'd have to pull the interior, fuel tank and engine to do a full replacement, but since all the stuff was out I opted to go all new. Part#'s: 26520AG02A (rear), 26530AG01A (center), 26514AG01A (front), 26534AA000 (2-way connector x2).

You know from what I've seen, pulling the bushings out of a used one looks like a nightmare and you have to buy the bushings too. The cost of the new one seems a bargain...

You know from what I've seen, pulling the bushings out of a used one looks like a nightmare and you have to buy the bushings too. The cost of the new one seems a bargain...

 

Exactly why I went the new route.

Recently we got the carpet put in and some of the small associated black trim pieces, including the shifter trim. In addition to this, the final piece of the engine build puzzle came in today; a freshly rebuilt VF40 turbo to get us up and running. In the future, I'm sure we'll move to something more exciting, but this should allow me to run an off-the-shelf Cobb map for break in.

Emily and I have been taking full advantage of our work from home situation, spending ample hours in the garage on Phoenix. All of the parts we need for the engine are in, so the work begins. Yesterday we bolted on the D25 heads built by MAPerformance. No fancy port work here, just a fresh set of heads and cams with upgraded valves, springs, guides and retainers. We got them installed and torqued into place with new ARP head studs.

Today we spend several hours bolting on new bits and pieces; got the cam seals hammered into place, coolant bypass and crossover tubes installed, group N motor mounts torqued down, and AVCS oil feed lines installed, along with a good portion of the timing equipment. Next up, we'll get the motor timed.

Gee, your "work from home" is making me jealous. I still have to go to work everyday to get paid...

 

Good progress.

Cleaned up the valve covers, installed them onto the motor and timed the engine with an HKS timing belt.

The motor build up continues; TGV deletes, Tomei headers and up pipe went with relative ease, until I tried to hang the turbo, at which point nothing wanted to line up. After what seemed like hours of fine tuning, I finally got everything to sit happy with one another. The next curveball was pulling the crank pulley and center timing cover off of the old motor, because my dumbass didn't think about doing that prior to removing... everything. This involved drilling out 4 of the cam cover bolts because the motor was just that rusty, but I got there eventually. Next up is tackling the mess of lines atop the motor.

During these times, this is quite refreshing to watch/read. Great job!

I did a lot of similar work last year to my wagoon (body, suspension, interior) but now you have passed me. My engine is very tired and this build has me looking forward to the day I do that. Until then, I shall hoard parts for the engine.

 

 

P.S. great taste in cars both Legacy Wagon and 135. I am on the hunt for a replacement 128 for my fiance (the last one we had turned out to be a SULEV...lesson learned) Great chassis but tough to find the right spec with 6-speed.

Shiiiiiny. Also, looks like you didn't buy into the lightweight crank pulley issues being too severe?

P.S. great taste in cars both Legacy Wagon and 135. I am on the hunt for a replacement 128 for my fiance (the last one we had turned out to be a SULEV...lesson learned) Great chassis but tough to find the right spec with 6-speed.

 

The 135i is hers. She must have spent months dreaming about buying a BRZ and then test drove the BMW in addition to a few others, and that became the choice. Between the two of us, we're going to have quite the car stable in a few years. She wants to restore a classic Power Wagon as the next project and I've been dreaming of an Aston Martin in addition to the Jag.

 

Shiiiiiny. Also, looks like you didn't buy into the lightweight crank pulley issues being too severe?

 

You are correct sir, I sure don't.

Busy week for us and the wagon. Michigan has been having some decent weather and we've been taking full advantage as we "work from home". I spent most of Wednesday and Thursday fitting the turbo inlet (Cobb surprisingly had a terrible design, would go Perrin if I could do it over), intake manifold and various hoses/sensors. Additionally, I cleaned and re-taped the engine wiring harness as well as sealing several unused connectors before installing that as well. Later I would manage to break multiple connectors and totally regret not just buying a new harness; I ordered some new ones from I-wire and will replace those later.

 

By Friday, the engine was assembled and ready to go. Emily and I primed the engine with a pressure bleeder and some fresh oil, which worked brilliantly. Then we hoisted up the engine, installed the new Clutch Masters clutch and began the engine install. It went relatively smoothly, considering neither of us had actually installed an engine with a cherry picker before. Only took us two hours from when we picked it up until it was bolted in place.

Saturday and Sunday were spent connecting the host of wiring, fuel/vacuum hoses and other accessories for the engine. Unfortunately I broke the power steering bracket trying to get the old adjuster out, and will have to source a new one before we can start the engine for the first time.

 

Since my 6 speed swap includes a transmission out of an S402, which does not have a DCCD differential, I could easily make use of the factory 4 pin connector for neutral and reverse position. Luckily my transmission came with the male side of the connector as well, which I spliced into the dash side harness for a plug and play solution. To finish out the weekend, I installed the downpipe and exhaust, which fit rather well considering what I paid for the components.

GrimmSpeed intercooler went on today; took me 3 hours to install and put up quite the fight. In addition to that the radiator is in, battery installed and the boost gauge has been plumbed into the GFB BPV reference line. Just waiting on the replacement power steering bracket to install the accessory system and get it driving. Still have half an interior to put back together.

Your the first one I've heard of that had a hard time installing that tmic.

 

I did let that hose to the TB from the tmic form itself to the tmic for a couple days before I installed mine.