Trouble after ocv replacement?

Yes 4 banjo bolts + the one on top of the turbo. The only screens I know of are in the back of the head passenger side because it filters both the avcs and turbo and at the front of the head driver side for that avcs. I believe there was a tsb at some point that told subaru mechanics to remove the banjo screens if there was any indication of clogging. Perhaps it was applied to your car and they were removed already.

 

On a side note... there is a lot of debate over what oil to use. Not trying to start a pissing match with anyone here. My tuner told me to stay away from anything that has the dexos cert on it. Said in their experience it wasn’t working well with subaru engines. I personally was using Rotella t6 5w40 and changed to motul 8100 excess 5w40. I found that the 5w40 seem to give me slightly higher oil pressure at idle.

 

 

Edit: found the tsb.. though it only mentions replacing screens not removing them.

 

Edited May 24, 2019 by DaveWaters

That sounds about right in that case minus the turbo free location. But yes 4 sounds correct, worst case scenario I still have 2 left to pull. In terms of oil I use 5w-30 pennzoil platinum full synthetic. Would you recommend a higher weight? Is more oil pressure a good thing or can it be bad as well?

This might help. The bolt your looking for is at 2:06.

 

 

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Thank you for that video, super helpful. That thing is right beneath the turbo and I let pipe. What do you think the easiest way to get to that is? Pull the turbo?

Yes pulling the turbo is easiest access.

 

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Pulling the turbo is a bit of work. You also risk tearing the inlet at the turbo if its not in the best condition. I use a stubby combination wrench. You will need to remove the turbo heat shield. The hardest part is putting back the washer that goes against the head.. buy a few extras. I found dangling it with dental floss was easiest and after threading the bolt in a turn or two you just pull the floss out through the washer.

 

 

 

 

Edit: I just checked that vid.. looks like your year has a banjo bolt that faces up at the back of the head? Mine faces the firewall.

Edited May 25, 2019 by DaveWaters

Pulling the turbo is a bit of work. You also risk tearing the inlet at the turbo if its not in the best condition. I use a stubby combination wrench. You will need to remove the turbo heat shield. The hardest part is putting back the washer that goes against the head.. buy a few extras. I found dangling it with dental floss was easiest and after threading the bolt in a turn or two you just pull the floss out through the washer.

 

 

 

 

Edit: I just checked that vid.. looks like your year has a banjo bolt that faces up at the back of the head? Mine faces the firewall.

Yes, D25 heads (on 07-09 LGT) have the banjo on the topside of the engine beneath the turbo inlet.

Sounds right, D25 for the 07-09 and the B25 for the 05 to 06 correct? B25 mounted on the backside of the head, D25 under turbo inlet. Regardless, I think I'd rather have to pull it off the head if I had to choose lol PITA

There is also an oil port on the rear of d25 heads similar to B25, that is plugged. In the video, the oil line is relocated from the top of the head (original location) to the rear port. If you think that's a PITA just leave it in there, and deal with a engine and turbo rebuild just as many others including myself have done.

 

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Might be a pain but still worth pulling out lol not going to risk an engine over a few hours worth of work tops

Bringing back this old thread with some more issues that really kind of have me stumped again. After replacing both ocv solenoids, replacing the driver side intake cam sprocket, and pulling the banjos I got the car back and drove about a day before getting both p0011 and p0021. Generally that's turbo failure from what I've read but the turbo has only 20k miles on it and shows no signs of failure. I noticed when the cel pops up though that both sides of the ocv duty cycle just stop working. Instead of being responsive and advancing with the throttle, they sit pegged at 9.4 no matter what. Did I purchase faulty ofcvs? What should I look at next?

OEM or aftermarket OCVs?

I have a set of OEM OCVs with 88k on them that were working perfectly that I could mail you to help test if needed.

They were beck & arnley so they were supposed to be an OEM replacement. Its just weird how they are reading a duty cycle half of the time and then sometimes they just stop reading all together. Are you thinking they might be those? I wouldn't be completely opposed to that

They were beck & arnley so they were supposed to be an OEM replacement. Its just weird how they are reading a duty cycle half of the time and then sometimes they just stop reading all together. Are you thinking they might be those? I wouldn't be completely opposed to that

 

There are a number of parts that aftermarket has never got right like O2 and thermostats, I’ve read of a number of aftermarket OCVs that never acted right. Don’t know for sure in your scenario, but offering to send you a couple of used, working OEM to test. Just ship them back when you are done or make me an offer for them if you decide you want to keep them after testing.

I'm cool with that, I'll PM the address

Bringing back an old thread as an update for the spec b. I ended up pulling all banjos to no avail, even replaced the avcs actuators again to no avail, car kept throwing this damn code. So I said screw it and got those ocvs offered to me from infosecdad and boom, ocvs started working perfectly. I suppose these are another one of those items that have to be OEM replacements, the back & arnley ones i got from rockauto did not work one bit and never did apparently

As years go by there are fewer and fewer things that need to be oem! but ocvs are definitely not one of them apparently. I guess the reason being is its a part that has to be held to high tolerances because its a pretty integral and crucial part to the avcs which needs a good amount of accuracy in its operation, otherwise its going to flip the bird on you.

 

maybe we should start a thread on oem vs aftermarket to see whats up. 4th gens came out in 05, thats 15 year old technology, at this point most aftermarket companies should have their shit together smh....

I completely agree. It sucks to spend the money on these supposedly oem replacements just to find out they don't work and must be purchased from subaru instead

FWIW when it happened to me dealer said to use OEM only, not aftermarket. Sucks since these aren’t cheap (think I paid high 80s/pc for both on rockauto, close to $200 with shipping but better than close to $200/pc at my dealer) but that’s not something you want to skimp on either, since soon after I got that code, bye bye went my turbo.

FWIW when it happened to me dealer said to use OEM only, not aftermarket. Sucks since these aren’t cheap (think I paid high 80s/pc for both on rockauto, close to $200 with shipping but better than close to $200/pc at my dealer) but that’s not something you want to skimp on either, since soon after I got that code, bye bye went my turbo.

 

Damn that's some bad luck my friend, but I agree. It was 200 per sensor at subaru and 80 at rockauto. I never took my car in so I didnt know that these were one of those items that required oem. Luckily I got them swapped back out without much harm done

Glad to hear it-I hate it that the valves can take out the turbo, but glad you caught it in time. Not to scare you but keep an ear on it, just to make sure everything’s ok. I think with mine, when I got it, I limped home (thankfully I was only a few miles so it was a short drive) and stayed out of the boost but there was enough damage done in that short time (or was already started and this just accelerated the process) that it started the downward slide. I’ve been looking for some aftermarket lines...more experienced people on here say stock are fine but after that I’d rather have a better dedicated oil supply for the turbo. Just my $0.02.

I'll definitely keep an ear on it, I'm not sure what year you have but I do know they made changes to the banjos from the prefacelift and postfacelift models. Maybe that plays into it some? I'm just thankful I've been lucky so far but really relieved I got a warranty on this guy recently applied. I'm just battling some fine knock stuff, actually uploaded a datalog on my other post but no responses yet lol

Mines an 05, I’ve got one before the turbo, on the driver head and pass head. Might have better luck with the 08, not too familiar with those.

Moved the turbo feed from the passenger head to underneath the turbo inlet pipe. Kinda a pain in the ass, I've pulled most of mine out