What did you do to your 4th gen. Legacy today? Vol - 10

Did you use the harness from the OBXT or your LGT? Your coil connectors could also be failing.

Can you elaborate on this? (I had the mod to up the voltage from the alt slightly (~.7v) that the WRX guys like to keep the voltage from falling too far.)

 

Thanks

 

It's basically messing with the signal back to the ECM from the Alternator to get it to bump the voltage up .5-.6v. Some Subarus (like mine), seem to run a little bit lower in the voltage department (low 13s a lot). There are a number of ways to do it. The easiest I found was to pony up for a fuse that is made by a company in Australia that will essentially bleed out a little voltage on the signal wire to get the voltage boosted.

 

https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showpost.php?p=41931600&postcount=3

 

https://www.hkbelect.com/

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Alternator-Voltage-Booster-MK3-for-Subaru-WRX-Outback-Liberty-Forester-/322650713539

 

I did this route because to undo it, you just have to swap the old fuse back in.

Did you use the harness from the OBXT or your LGT? Your coil connectors could also be failing.

 

Harness from LGT, but I've replaced the connectors and checked them 6-8 times. I guess it's still possible, but I don't think it's likely at this point.

 

If it fusses with the NGK coils, then I'll swap the OBXT harness over; I'd just rather not go that far if I don't have to.

It's what's recommended for lubing the clutch pivot shaft and slave cylinder to pivot shaft contact point on the 6MT.

 

For stuff like that, I don't overthink it and just use my tub of general purpose high-temp grease. From my understanding, there's nothing special about the metals in use, and they're not in particularly demanding conditions, so any suitable lubrication (i.e. grease, and not oil) is fine.

 

Those parts do have the force of the clutch pressure plate on them, which is >1000 lbs IIRC, so those little spherical surfaces are seeing a couple-few thousand psi. I use a NLGI #2 moly-fortified wheel bearing grease on those points. Already had a small tub of it on hand, does the job.

Solved an issue and discovered something odd. Purchased and installed the Diode Dynamics SmartTap a couple months ago. Worked great - the only issue was it randomly caused my ecu to reset at one point (radio stations reset and car had to relearn). I never disconnected the battery during install and chalked it up to a random electrical gremlin.

 

Fast forward a month or so and I get P0700/P1718/C0045 (all related to ABS/VDC). This was random and the car didn't display any transmission/drive-ability issues before or after the codes appeared. A test confirmed I had a dying alternator. Before replacing with the reman alternator the codes all cleared themselves. However, after installing the new alternator and starting the car, all three codes came back. I figured they'd clear themselves after a few driving cycles. After 2 days and 5-8 driving cycles the codes were still present. I knew I fixed the alternator issue - voltages are much more stable and windows don't chug anymore if I'm rolling up 2 at a time. On a whim I recalled the random ecu reset after installing the SmartTap. So I swap in the standard Diode Dynamics LED flasher and start up the car and all codes were cleared on their own - no ecu reset required.

 

TLDR: I think the SmartTap caused some electrical issues in the CAN BUS system. I don't know if this was made worse by the DRL disable mod I did a few years back but it appears the SmartTap was the culprit all along. I think the dying alternator was just a coincidental issue. Not sure if my SmartTap is faulty but I don't care to find out - going to return it. Curious if anyone else with the SmartTap had electrical issues after install. A Google search came up dry.

Those parts do have the force of the clutch pressure plate on them, which is >1000 lbs IIRC, so those little spherical surfaces are seeing a couple-few thousand psi. I use a NLGI #2 moly-fortified wheel bearing grease on those points. Already had a small tub of it on hand, does the job.

 

Yep I started using the same stuff, wheel bearing grease, when I did my first clutch job back in the mid 1970's on my 340 4-speed Duster. seemed like the smart thing to do. High temp and high pressure capable.

TLDR: I think the SmartTap caused some electrical issues in the CAN BUS system. I don't know if this was made worse by the DRL disable mod I did a few years back but it appears the SmartTap was the culprit all along. I think the dying alternator was just a coincidental issue. Not sure if my SmartTap is faulty but I don't care to find out - going to return it. Curious if anyone else with the SmartTap had electrical issues after install. A Google search came up dry.

 

I've had mine installed for over a year now with no issues. I wonder if it's not actually the SmartTap relay itself but a grounding issue that managed to fix itself when you reinstalled the other relay?

Good point. I tested every ground I could with a multimeter and came up with voltage differences well below bad grounding thresholds. The only other thing is that blue/black wire for the DRL mod wasn't taped over (dumb oversight on my part). Maybe that was making metal contact randomly under the dash? Regardless I'm going to live with the regular LED relay and hope the codes are phantom moving forward. DD makes great products so it very well could have been something else. Just happy to not be in limp-mode anymore

Been working on some vinyl wrap for the interior. Pretty happy with how this came out. But man, those corners are tough.

 

Looks well executed. Definitely better than my scuffed up coffee stained garbage.

 

No trim would be lighter

She's alive!

I missed the sweet song of the Stromung...

 

Based on research, I decided to try "The Right Stuff" to help seal up that hole on the lower starter bolt.

Put in about 1/2" plug, then ran a bead down the threads, pushed the bolt in.

Tighten it down and left it to cure for a few hours.

 

DHL finally showed up with my NGK coils from RockAuto. Learned that NGK coils are made by Diamond just like OEM

 

Not the exact same number, but the car is happy with them.

 

 

Got it all back together, filled and burped the cooling system, no leaks

Idled it for 15 min, fans came on, no leaks of any fluid.

 

 

Put the covers back on and ran an errand to the storage garage where 99% of my stuff is right now...

 

 

 

Needs a bath pretty badly. She'll get one today.

Holy cow, that clutch!

Completely different feel than my almost dead OEM DM setup.

It's heavy, but not too heavy.

I'm loving the feel of the SB Stage 3 Daily.

I love that it has a solid engagement period, no slipping.

You know as soon as it starts to grab, because it's not letting go.

Wow, my tired stock was slush compared to this.

 

It's going to take me a bit to get used to driving this, but some shifts are already seamless; I love it.

Motor is running smooth, no misfires what so ever.

Everything feels so tight/new. The driver's seat has only 1/3 of the butt time my old one did, it feels really nice and firm.

 

List of changes:

- 88k Long Block

- 88k 5mt tranny (4.44)

- 88k Rear diff

- JDM TGV delete

- Reman Starter

- New NGK plugs (one step colder)

- New NGK/Diamond coils

- Intake from 202k engine

- 88k Power Steering pump (no leaks)

- Timing Service w/ Water Pump

- 4k SB Stage 3 Daily w/ SM Flywheel

- Full black interior swap (inc. dash)

 

In case anyone was wondering, you can pull the engine and transmission at the same time, you just need to put the car up on jack stands so you have the room to really tip the tail down. Removing the exhaust manifold helps with clearance on the A/C cooler. It's pretty tight, you have to watch it closely, but it can be done. Highly recommend having a second person with you to help watch and push things.

 

I'm glad to be done and driving again. Doing this in my in-laws driveway was a bit nerve-wracking. Plus, next week I start getting ready to teach Comp Sci in the fall. Thanks for the all the help, suggestions, etc. One of these days I just need to make a build thread and stop cluttering up the "what did you do today"

Edited July 27, 2019 by Infosecdad

It must feel great to have the car back up and running again, quite the project you took on there!

 

So do you think the cause of the misfires was these Cosmo coils? Is that what prompted this swap to begin with? Mine are still original at 173k but I have a full, used oem set in the hatch of my car. Seems like most of the time misfires are traced back to the coils.

It must feel great to have the car back up and running again, quite the project you took on there!

 

So do you think the cause of the misfires was these Cosmo coils? Is that what prompted this swap to begin with? Mine are still original at 173k but I have a full, used oem set in the hatch of my car. Seems like most of the time misfires are traced back to the coils.

 

I had misfires that I couldn't get rid of after months of testing, fixing, replacing.

I'm not sure if it was the Cosmo coils or not, I'm going to ship them back for them to test, then have them come back to me. I may try testing them myself as well, just depends on how much time I have at that point. I have two spare sets of coils, two spare sets of injectors, etc.

 

I also was running 1qt of oil per 1k and other fun with a 200k engine. Halfway through trying to piecemeal a tan -> black interior conversion. So this OBXT could solve/fix a lot of stuff at the same time. It just took a boat ton of labor to do. Now I have a pile of stuff from the OBXT and the LGT to post in the classifieds to help offset the costs.

Just dropped my spare engine off to my rebuilder, it'll have new rings, bearings and brian crower springs installed. Sounds like he will crack it open on monday to see if there is any other things needed.

 

I'll add this here, I'm wondering if I should throw these mirrors on my 08 spec b that I'm building (jdm 04-07) with the grampus and base covers... I'm in a dilemma if I should sell them... thoughts? will the harnesses work on the 08+?

Edited July 27, 2019 by MaasaiWarrior

Just dropped my spare engine off to my rebuilder, it'll have new rings, bearings and brian crower springs installed. Sounds like he will crack it open on monday to see if there is any other things needed.

 

I'll add this here, I'm wondering if I should throw these mirrors on my 08 spec b that I'm building (jdm 04-07) with the grampus and base covers... I'm in a dilemma if I should sell them... thoughts? will the harnesses work on the 08+?

 

They are just my color, you should just mail them to me.

They are just my color, you should just mail them to me.

 

I could be influenced with the right amount of money, they took a while to piece together and get it all right;)

I'll add this here, I'm wondering if I should throw these mirrors on my 08 spec b that I'm building (jdm 04-07) with the grampus and base covers... I'm in a dilemma if I should sell them... thoughts? will the harnesses work on the 08+?

 

Are the the JDM ones with the motors? If so they aren't exactly plug and play, but can be made work. You need to reuse your OEM connector and change the pins around.

 

But having power folding mirrors is kind of nice. It's not THAT hard to wire them up to work, and you can add inexpensive modules that will auto fold/unfold them based on if the doors are locked.

Holy cow, that clutch!

Completely different feel than my almost dead OEM DM setup.

It's heavy, but not too heavy.

I'm loving the feel of the SB Stage 3 Daily.

I love that it has a solid engagement period, no slipping.

You know as soon as it starts to grab, because it's not letting go.

Wow, my tired stock was slush compared to this.

 

It's going to take me a bit to get used to driving this, but some shifts are already seamless; I love it.

Motor is running smooth, no misfires what so ever.

 

 

Thats awesome, super glad to hear its running, and for good clutch results! That was the best way to describe it, it was very "positive", direct without being harsh or unforgiving. Heftier than stock, but not obnoxious.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Did an oil change last night, I'm happy with the signs on the magnetic drain plug. Each oil change since the new motor went in has had less and less material stuck to the magnet. This change had the dyno session on it, as well. If I weren't lazy I'd have UOA's done, buuuut...yeah. Lubed up my squeaky rear sway bar bushings, no more creaaaaaaking over speed bumps. Figured out the O-rings on the dipstick tube are leaking on my Killer B oil pan. Not sure I want to pull the stick and try new rings. Might be super ghetto and jam some FIPG down the hole Thats the only leak on a complete new build tho, pretty happy.

And here I was looking for clutch recommendations

I could be influenced with the right amount of money, they took a while to piece together and get it all right;)

 

I really wish I had the right amount of money, but after what I just finished I have a lot of selling to do first

5 years 3 months ago, I popped my motor at the track running slalom. Today I went back to the scene of the crime, so to speak.

 

Im happy to say I drove home instead of riding in the cab of a towtruck.

 

The rebuild has not been a good experience though. Gas consumption is awful...150 miles for 12 gallons. Acceleration is terrible. The subie stumble was added by the shop. Lots more noise from the drivetrain.

 

Finally caved and bought a lift. Its due mid-August. Im looking forward to putting the car up for a full nut/bolt torque fest. Replacing all the shop's "hmm...we lost the bolt, oh look here's something in the trashbin that might work" crap. Swapping out the rusty bolts/nuts everywhere.

Got it running last night, stretched her legs for the first time in 7 weeks and some change. 19.5 psi of boost never felt so good after all this commuting with the Accord. Took her the long way home.

 

I still have a leak at the midpipe connection, need to maybe try a double gasket or resurfacing the flanges flat on the mid pipe. Still got some creaking in the suspension up front but I’ll revisit those issues after I install the JDM coilovers. Waiting to find rear control arms up for sale before I install everything.

 

It was a good night nonetheless. Had fun driving the car and feeling one with the road again. Haven’t driven a manual in 7 weeks aside from driving my lady’s Miata once or twice.

New front rotors and brake pads on my Legacy wagon today. The car has 177,000 miles on it, and I turned the rotors 4 years ago at about 110,000 or so when I replaced the pads on all 4 calipers.

 

The fronts began exhibiting signs of warping recently, and had no more meat left for another pass on the brake lathe. For just a bit over $16 each for the replacement rotors, and $17 for the pads it was easy enough on the wallet.

 

Should be good for another 110,000 miles or so.

Are the the JDM ones with the motors? If so they aren't exactly plug and play, but can be made work. You need to reuse your OEM connector and change the pins around.

 

But having power folding mirrors is kind of nice. It's not THAT hard to wire them up to work, and you can add inexpensive modules that will auto fold/unfold them based on if the doors are locked.

 

Yes they have the motors, I've looked into it, I really just hate re-pinning connectors...

She's alive!

I missed the sweet song of the Stromung...

 

Based on research, I decided to try "The Right Stuff" to help seal up that hole on the lower starter bolt.

Put in about 1/2" plug, then ran a bead down the threads, pushed the bolt in.

Tighten it down and left it to cure for a few hours.

 

DHL finally showed up with my NGK coils from RockAuto. Learned that NGK coils are made by Diamond just like OEM

[ATTACH]277804[/ATTACH]

 

Not the exact same number, but the car is happy with them.

 

[ATTACH]277805[/ATTACH]

 

Got it all back together, filled and burped the cooling system, no leaks

Idled it for 15 min, fans came on, no leaks of any fluid.

 

[ATTACH]277806[/ATTACH]

 

Put the covers back on and ran an errand to the storage garage where 99% of my stuff is right now...

 

[ATTACH]277807[/ATTACH]

 

[ATTACH]277808[/ATTACH]

 

Needs a bath pretty badly. She'll get one today.

Holy cow, that clutch!

Completely different feel than my almost dead OEM DM setup.

It's heavy, but not too heavy.

I'm loving the feel of the SB Stage 3 Daily.

I love that it has a solid engagement period, no slipping.

You know as soon as it starts to grab, because it's not letting go.

Wow, my tired stock was slush compared to this.

 

It's going to take me a bit to get used to driving this, but some shifts are already seamless; I love it.

Motor is running smooth, no misfires what so ever.

Everything feels so tight/new. The driver's seat has only 1/3 of the butt time my old one did, it feels really nice and firm.

 

List of changes:

- 88k Long Block

- 88k 5mt tranny (4.44)

- 88k Rear diff

- JDM TGV delete

- Reman Starter

- New NGK plugs (one step colder)

- New NGK/Diamond coils

- Intake from 202k engine

- 88k Power Steering pump (no leaks)

- Timing Service w/ Water Pump

- 4k SB Stage 3 Daily w/ SM Flywheel

- Full black interior swap (inc. dash)

 

In case anyone was wondering, you can pull the engine and transmission at the same time, you just need to put the car up on jack stands so you have the room to really tip the tail down. Removing the exhaust manifold helps with clearance on the A/C cooler. It's pretty tight, you have to watch it closely, but it can be done. Highly recommend having a second person with you to help watch and push things.

 

I'm glad to be done and driving again. Doing this in my in-laws driveway was a bit nerve-wracking. Plus, next week I start getting ready to teach Comp Sci in the fall. Thanks for the all the help, suggestions, etc. One of these days I just need to make a build thread and stop cluttering up the "what did you do today"

 

 

Well done!

 

Hope to join you very soon in the realm of the selfsustained 4 cycle goodness amplified by that wonderful Stromung tonal goodness.