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WRX / LGT Cobb SF intake differences?


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Can't seem to find out what is the actual difference between the 05 LGT and 08-14 Cobb SF intake. The intakes themselves are different part numbers, but the box is the same for both fitments.

 

Mostly asking because I'm looking to snag one off the Marketplace or Craigslist and wondering if the WRX/STI/FXT intake would fit up the same.

 

Looking to get my new-to-me 05 OBXT tuned for longevity and want to throw on a couple generic upgrades (car came with headers, downpipe, TGV deletes, and a GFB BPV ready to install) before I bring it in. Scouring marketplace for an intake and turbo inlet to that list.

 

-Justin

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You don't need a intake. Yours is fine. Put your money somewhere else.

 

Dose the car have a Cobb AP?

 

I saw your other post about the Spec 2 clutch. That clutch will only last about 60,000 miles, Get a Spec 2+ for these cars. That's what Spec recommends.

Edited by Max Capacity

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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+1 on not needing an intake. Don’t need one until you bump to a larger turbo and it can cause boost creep on your stock VF40 turbo. Put that cash where it will do some good like a new Cat less up pipe before the cat in your stock one disintegrates and blows your turbo and/or motor
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You don't need a intake. Yours is fine. Put your money somewhere else.

 

Dose the car have a Cobb AP?

 

I saw your other post about the Spec 2 clutch. That clutch will only last about 60,000 miles, Get a Spec 2+ for these cars. That's what Spec recommends.

 

I know I don't "need" it, but I figured I might as well look to see if I can score one at a discount before I spend $60 on a drop in air filter lol. Mostly just want to get rid of the ugly accordion pipe not gonna lie. And I will have the intake off to install the TGVs so I might as well do that inlet while it's off already.

 

As for the clutch, it's a basically brand new ACT stage 2 clutch/pressure plate on a brand new ACT streetlite flywheel. The car doesn't need it right at this moment but I have these just laying around from my (now defunct) NA/T project Forester.

 

Obviously I will need to grab an accessport before I get it tuned, yes. I'm not going to put ANY of this stuff on until I have that and am ready to bring it to the tuner.

 

-Justin

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Put that cash where it will do some good like a new Cat less up pipe before the cat in your stock one disintegrates and blows your turbo and/or motor

 

Yes, that is one of the first things I intend to do. Also in my stash of random Subaru parts is a Tomei header. I might look to trade the Grimmspeed EWG up pipe I have for it (again, from the Forester lol) for a non-EWG 3 bolt up pipe to match. The stock header is looking pretty crusty from that New England life, but the car itself is very surprisingly clean.

 

-Justin

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I'd really recommend not messing with the intake on a car with a turboback exhaust. Boost creep is super common on Subarus with these modifications. You say you have an EWG uppipe though, so I guess you've at least got your wastegate figured out. I'd imagine that would solve your potential boost creep issues if you went through with putting all of this on.

 

For the intake, no, an later model year won't work quite right with it. If you wanted to go the route of re-tuning the car with a WRX/STi MAF, then go for it, but I'd just stick with what works on this car without adding more variables.

 

For a turbo inlet, I have a Perrin unit installed by the previous owner. It's been on for about 3 years now. No complaints here.

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I know I don't "need" it, but I figured I might as well look to see if I can score one at a discount before I spend $60 on a drop in air filter lol. Mostly just want to get rid of the ugly accordion pipe not gonna lie. And I will have the intake off to install the TGVs so I might as well do that inlet while it's off already.

 

As for the clutch, it's a basically brand new ACT stage 2 clutch/pressure plate on a brand new ACT streetlite flywheel. The car doesn't need it right at this moment but I have these just laying around from my (now defunct) NA/T project Forester.

 

Obviously I will need to grab an accessport before I get it tuned, yes. I'm not going to put ANY of this stuff on until I have that and am ready to bring it to the tuner.

 

-Justin

 

 

Oh, so your talking about the inlet to the turbo, I must have miss read the other post. Yes, at this age, you should replace that while your in the area. I went with a OEM inlet back in 2012.

 

I think Perrin makes a silicone turbo inlet but there is some small issue when putting it on a 2005-2006.

 

Again, both my cars have a panel air filter. I enjoy not having to buy a paper filter every year or so.

 

Also remember to clean the MAF sensor and IAT probe with MAF cleaner.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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I'd really recommend not messing with the intake on a car with a turboback exhaust. Boost creep is super common on Subarus with these modifications. You say you have an EWG uppipe though, so I guess you've at least got your wastegate figured out. I'd imagine that would solve your potential boost creep issues if you went through with putting all of this on.

 

For the intake, no, an later model year won't work quite right with it. If you wanted to go the route of re-tuning the car with a WRX/STi MAF, then go for it, but I'd just stick with what works on this car without adding more variables.

 

For a turbo inlet, I have a Perrin unit installed by the previous owner. It's been on for about 3 years now. No complaints here.

Oh, so your talking about the inlet to the turbo, I must have miss read the other post. Yes, at this age, you should replace that while your in the area. I went with a OEM inlet back in 2012.

 

I think Perrin makes a silicone turbo inlet but there is some small issue when putting it on a 2005-2006.

 

Again, both my cars have a panel air filter. I enjoy not having to buy a paper filter every year or so.

 

Also remember to clean the MAF sensor and IAT probe with MAF cleaner.

 

Sorry, I may have confused you guys lol. I was looking to replace both the turbo inlet and the intake attached to it, and was trying to clarify what the difference was between the WRX/LGT intake pipe. I think I have that clarified now.

 

If I went with something like a Perrin after-MAF, that shouldn't induce boost creep correct?

 

The EWG pipe I had from my project Forester because I was going to be using an eBay 20g on it and those IWG are notoriously horrible. I wasn't planning on putting it on the Outback, or at least not on the stock engine (I have the parts to build a forged short block should the stock engine give up, and I would use it then).

 

-Justin

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I think most of us would caution you about the ebay 20g. for the money you saved on it, IMO it would be smart to send it off to JmP6889928 a trusted member here who rebuilds turbo's. He can do nice things it so it will last a long time on your expensive engine.

 

I will let those that know answer the boost creep question. I trust my Tuner tuningalliance@gmail.com so I don't have issues. He will also rebuild turbo's.

 

Just feel the need to caution you about looking for big HP. These cars can very reliable with 350AWHP or a little less. The car will be fun to drive and give you years of smiles. The 5mt can become the weak point over time.

 

Also don't get hung up on the HP number on the dyno, it's about how it feels on the street that count's.

Edited by Max Capacity

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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I think most of us would caution you about the ebay 20g. for the money you saved on it, IMO it would be smart to send it off to JmP6889928 a trusted member here who rebuilds turbo's. He can do nice things it so it will last a long time on your expensive engine.

 

I will let those that know answer the boost creep question. I trust my Tuner tuningalliance@gmail.com so I don't have issues. He will also rebuild turbo's.

 

Just feel the need to caution you about looking for big HP. These cars can very reliable with 350AWHP or a little less. The car will be fun to drive and give you years of smiles. The 5mt can become the weak point over time.

 

Also don't get hung up on the HP number on the dyno, it's about how it feels on the street that count's.

 

I'm not touching this motor or turbo as long as they're both alive. A 200k mile turbo and EJ255 can only live so long though but they seem strong as it is now, as this car is bone stock and seems to have been taken care of.

 

If I were to upgrade the turbo in the future I've been eyeing a Twisted Motion 20g, which is basically the same thing - a decent rebuild and balance service for "ebay" turbos.

 

300-350 is more than plenty for a grocery getting winter car / secondary daily, my truck is about to go under the knife and it will make probably twice that on the bottle when I want to go fast :)

 

-Justin

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