Jump to content
LegacyGT.com

IDEA-Web links saved for various parts


Recommended Posts

 

Talk to boxkita as he has this and is currently using it.

 

[ame=http://www.amazon.com/TabStore-Diagnostics-Scanner-Support-Android/dp/B00EUWEHU8/?tag=vglnkc6475-20]Amazon.com: TabStore Mini ELM327 Wi-Fi OBD2 Auto Diagnostics Scanner Support Android Iphone Ipad: Car Electronics[/ame]

 

Talk to Bucko3the7man about this one as he is currently using it.

Edited by JmP6889928
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Factory Gear Ratios for Reference

 

All-Wheel-Drive 5-speed Transmissions

USDM

3.454 / 1.947 / 1.366 / 0.972 / 0.738 / 3.900FD - '02-'05 USDM WRX

3.454 / 1.947 / 1.366 / 0.972 / 0.738 / 3.700FD - '06-'07 USDM WRX

3.166 / 1.882 / 1.296 / 0.972 / 0.738 / 3.900FD - '08-current USDM WRX

3.454 / 1.947 / 1.366 / 0.972 / 0.738 / 4.444FD - '04-'08 Forester 2.5XT

3.454 / 2.062 / 1.448 / 1.088 / 0.780 / 4.111FD - '04-current Forester non-turbo

3.166 / 1.882 / 1.296 / 0.972 / 0.738 / 4.111FD - '05-'06 USDM Legacy 2.5GT

3.166 / 1.882 / 1.296 / 0.972 / 0.738 / 3.900FD - '07-current USDM Legacy 2.5GT

3.166 / 1.882 / 1.296 / 0.972 / 0.738 / 4.444FD - '05-'09 USDM Outback 2.5XT

3.545 / 2.111 / 1.448 / 1.088 / 0.780 / 4.111FD - '98-'01 USDM Impreza 2.5RS

3.545 / 2.111 / 1.448 / 1.088 / 0.780 / 3.900FD - '96-'01 USDM Impreza L/OBS

3.545 / 2.111 / 1.448 / 1.088 / 0.780 / 4.111FD - '96-'99 USDM Legacy 2.5GT

3.545 / 2.111 / 1.448 / 1.088 / 0.871 / 4.111FD - '96-'99 USDM Legacy Outback

3.454 / 2.062 / 1.448 / 1.088 / 0.871 / 4.111FD - '00-'07 USDM Outback

3.454 / 2.062 / 1.448 / 1.088 / 0.825 / 4.111FD - '08-current USDM Outback

3.454 / 2.062 / 1.448 / 1.088 / 0.780 / 4.111FD - '02-'04 USDM Impreza 2.5RS/'05 Impreza 2.5RS Sport

3.545 / 1.947 / 1.366 / 0.972 / 0.780 / 4.111FD - '93-'94 USDM Impreza 1.8L

3.545 / 2.111 / 1.448 / 1.088 / 0.825 / 3.900FD - '95 USDM Impreza 1.8L

 

JDM

3.454 / 2.062 / 1.448 / 1.088 / 0.825 / 4.111FD - '93-'96 JDM Impreza WRX/STi

3.454 / 2.333 / 1.750 / 1.354 / 0.972 / 3.900FD - '93 JDM Impreza WRX RA

3.454 / 2.333 / 1.750 / 1.354 / 0.972 / 4.111FD - '94-'95 JDM Impreza WRX RA/STi RA

3.454 / 2.062 / 1.448 / 1.088 / 0.825 / 4.111FD - '93-'00 JDM Impreza WRX Wagon

3.083 / 2.062 / 1.545 / 1.151 / 0.825 / 4.444FD - '97-'00 JDM Impreza WRX RA/Type R/STi RA/22B STi

3.166 / 1.882 / 1.296 / 0.972 / 0.738 / 4.444FD - '97-'00 JDM Impreza WRX/STi

 

 

All-Wheel-Drive 6-speed Transmissions

3.636 / 2.375 / 1.761 / 1.346 / 1.061 / 0.842 / 3.900FD

- JDM Impreza WRX Spec C/STi/STi Spec C RA/V-Limted/S202/S203/S204/Spec C RA-R

- AUS Impreza WRX STi

 

3.636 / 2.235 / 1.521 / 1.137 / 0.971 / 0.756 / 3.900FD

- USDM 2007-current Impreza WRX STi

 

3.636 / 2.375 / 1.761 / 1.346 / 0.971 / 0.756 / 3.900FD

- USDM 2004-2006 Impreza WRX STi

- UK/Europe/NZ Impreza WRX STi

- JDM Legacy 3.0R Spec B

 

3.636 / 2.235 / 1.521 / 1.137 / 0.891 / 0.707 / 3.900FD

- USDM 2007-current Legacy 2.5GT Spec B

- JDM Forester STi

Link to comment
Share on other sites

http://www.ebay.com/itm/171045107889

 

This is on ebay so if you need it hurry. If this link doesn't work, use the words in the title to search and it should bring you to others.

 

From research apexi did and showed (thanks much for the info), here is the superceded new OE part number: 21132AA121

Edited by JmP6889928
Link to comment
Share on other sites

http://www.ebay.com/itm/171045107889

 

This is on ebay so if you need it hurry. If this link doesn't work, use the words in the title to search and it should bring you to others.

 

From research apexi did and showed (thanks much for the info), here is the superceded new OE part number: 21132AA121

 

from SBT, that part number is for a wrx. here's fix for LGT tank, which is fiber reinforced - http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4511558&postcount=11588

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

Any idea *which* ones we would use? If this can be answered, I'm more than happy with the original post being edited for stupid people like me and this post being deleted.

...or just point me in the right direction....

Martin Luther - "Who loves not women, wine and song remains a fool his whole life long."

 

EL4NFZT7

Link to comment
Share on other sites

http://ultimatetoolco.com/koken10mm

 

Lot's of other cool Subaru tools too

 

T-70 Torx bits and more.

 

UPDATE! !

I personally purchased both of these tools about 2 weeks ago and have now used the cam bolt socket and it's absolutely perfect. It will eliminate the issues of removing the cam bolts if you have an impact wrench by popping them loose quickly. The Torx bit is of excellent quality as well and both of them are inexpensive for what they are.

Enjoy ! !

Edited by JmP6889928
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks to CT08SpecB:

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/261430546827

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/121292680899

 

He has photos of the first lip installed and looks great. :)

 

Thanks to famaya26 for this one:

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/390763420015?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649+

 

He has photos of this lip installed and it too, looks great.

 

http://www.autocityimports.com/0509-subaru-legacy-gt-cs-style-front-lip-p-21297.html

 

battelready has this lip mounted on his car and it looks great AND it appears to not be terribly expensive either. :)

Edited by JmP6889928
Link to comment
Share on other sites

22670AA381 22670AA380

 

Are the oem part numbers for the pressure regulator alone, not the entire assembly, it costs about 65-90 online. Most places do not have it in stock, and have to order it somewhere, you may get lucky and find it at local dealership. I got it for 70 bucks at local dealership.

 

I was having issues with idle and startup after changing fuel pump. Takes about 30-60 minutes to change, you will need a philip's head screwdriver, 10mm socket, I used 1/4" ratchet set, and quick disconnects if you have them otherwise you have to remove the other ends.

 

Don't forget to remove the fuel pump fuse, and crank the engine until it stalls to remove pressure and to get most of the gas out of the lines.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

There are engines all over the place. Here a couple of links that can provide you with used engines for basically just about any Subaru you can find and they all come with a warranty. Simply go to these websites and fill in the information about your car and they'll give you a quote with delivery. You'll find any configuration you want. Make sure to have your VIN number on hand because the specific fitment will require the 6th digit of the VIN to make sure it's correct for your vehicle and electronics.

 

Good luck.

 

http://www.woodfins.com/subaru/legacy-outback/2005/engines/

 

http://www.firstclassengines.com/?gclid=CLG2gZHS570CFYY7MgodHCMAUw

 

http://www.engineandtransmissionworld.com/?utm_source=GDTM&utm_medium=PPC&utm_content=C2&utm_campaign=EATWTop&matchtype=b&network=g&kw=%2Bsubaru%20%2Blegacy%20%2Bengine&ad=38588997123&sitetarget=&adposition=1t3&mobile=&part=300

 

http://www.ebay.com/bhp/subaru-legacy-engine

 

http://www.mwdauto.com/engines.php?final=Used-Engines-For-Sale&gclid=COHBv_vS570CFcdaMgodFw4AiA

Edited by JmP6889928
Link to comment
Share on other sites

http://www.clipsandfasteners.com/Subaru_Grill_Bumper_Clips_s/304.htm

 

Subaru OE engine cover (and other applications) popits

 

909130051 and they are 7mm IIRC

 

Ordered this a few min ago best price for 15 clips not to mention they are OEM i know is doesnt mean much but I am stickler for little details. This should be a sticky for every forums lol

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

2005 2.5 EJ255-Subaru OE Part Number 10105AA720

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This does NOT include the half moon seals in the previous post but does include all other gaskets required to do a complete engine rebuild from splitting cases all the way to oil filler tube o-rings. My understanding is that this particular part number is for a 2005 2.5 EJ255 engine. If you have other part numbers for other model year or different engine sizes complete engine gasket kits, please PM me and I'll include them in this post.

 

Thanks ! :)

 

Thanks to xt2005bonbon for the photos in his thread: legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/full-gasket-kit-content-10105aa720-203457.html

 

 

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=144967&d=1363304875

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=144816&d=1363177353

 

Edit 2: Here is some more info I found on this thread for the various orings in the kit:

item #4: 806931020 wrist pin cover gasket

item #5: 806932030 goes in between the block halves

item #8: 806910170 gaskets for the bottom of the dipstick tube

item #9: 806917070 oring for oil fill tube to LH valve cover

item #10: 11122AA000 This goes between the oil pump pickup and block.

item #17: 806939040 AVCR intake cam oil covers (the triangular covers held to the front of each intake cam sprocket by 3 philips/8mm bolts)

item #26: 806922040 This may be the recirc valve kneck o-ring

item #37: 803912040 copper banjo bolt washers (except for the turbo oil feed)

item #38: 803910050 copper turbo oil feed banjo gaskets

item #39: 806933010 coolant crossover o-ring

 

Edit 3: I assigned items #18 and #20 wrong on the picture. It should be backwards: GREEN is for exhaust and Gray/black for intake.

 

Edit 4: Items 28 and 29 should be switched on the picture.

Edited by JmP6889928
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here's the one I bought recently and it works excellently.

 

Company 23

http://company23.com/

 

I also purchased their cam lock tool, http://www.company23.com/subaru/subarutools/506, for timing belt replacement and while I haven't used it as of yet, the design is clean and simple. Safer than using the vice grip method, at least in my own opinion.

 

Company 23 also has some excellent cam gear tools for removing cam bolts as well. I have not purchased as of yet, but will be in the very near future as I know that this will make life excessively easier to replace cam seals, remove heads, and just cut down on the pissedoffedness in general. :lol:

 

Cam gear tools (need one for intake & one for exhaust):

http://www.company23.com/subaru/subarutools/500

http://www.company23.com/subaru/subarutools/501

 

EuroExport

http://www.euroexportinc.com/spring-compressor-tools

 

OTC (not fond of this design for Subaru, hence buying the Company 23 above, but I have one for other style heads and it works great)

OTC 4572 Large Valve Spring Compressor:Amazon:Automotive

If you have a tool that you use, please PM me and I'll put it in this post.

 

Thanks ! :)

Edited by boxkita
Fixed bad OTC 4572 link
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Fixed your OTC 4572 link. It was futzbarred.

 

OOPS....LOL...Thanks Dale. ;)

 

At least I know SOMEONE is reading my posts on this sticky....LOL.

Edited by JmP6889928
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

GOOD INFORMATION HERE FOR NEWBIES TO READ. #10 is the key to LGT Ownership Bliss...:lol:

*stolen from BarManBean's post...:lol:

A lot of folks here seem to be asking the same questions, but in the wrong way. Questions seem to include bashing of the '05 model year, bashing of stock turbos, oil lines, blah blah blah, but all are asking what to do to increase reliability of the LGT drivetrain+. I'm interested in putting together a list of "reliability modifications" for LGTs. I'll start off, please chime in and I'll change the original post to reflect input.

 

  1. Remove cat from up pipe, if necessary (05/06 model years included cat in up pipe)
    • Any up pipe that fits an 02-11 STI will fit your 05-09 LGT (though not all of these pipes will necessarily be catless)

 

[*]Install upgraded oil lines (Infamous products recommended by many)

[*]KillerB oil pickup to prevent starvation

[*]Check/top off engine oil on every fill up. (yes, this is a 'mod'. if you don't do this you won't get much sympathy when your turbo dies due to oil starvation. these engines eat oil, get used to it)

  • Do an oil analysis (i.e. Blackstone) once you settle on an oil/filter combination that works for you. Should confirm that you OCI is adequate.

 

[*]For those with automatic transmissions, drain/refill transmission fluid every 5-7k miles...Alternatively, complete a full 5EAT DIY flush once every 30k miles--this may be easier since it's only once every couple of years for most people (DIY Flush info here: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthrea...sh-197248.html.)

[*]Let your engine/oil/other fluids warm up before you race a civic. for rationale please see notes from #4. it's a mod, don't be a 'tard.

[*]Drain/refill differentials every 30k miles. For 5EATs this will include both the front and the rear differentials. For 5MTs this only applies to the rear differential (front differential shares fluid with the transmission).

[*]Replace timing belt, tensioners, water pump at or before 105k miles.

[*]Flush brake fluid every two years (at a minimum)

[*]Stop driving your car. :lol::lol::lol:

Other potential "trouble spots" that are not "reliability related":

 

  1. Disconnect DRLs to prevent shortened headlight lifespan
  2. Inspect fuel lines for deterioration.
  3. CV boot under downpipe, recommended to check regularly (i.e. during oil changes) for wear.
  4. OEM LCA bushings known to tear; many aftermarket replacements available.
  5. Replace swaybar endlinks with aftermarket parts to reduce "clunks" in the front end.
  6. A new tune (pro, e-tune, AP) can help to prevent burned valves
  7. Install guages for oil pressure/temp and boost to track any significant changes and diagnose problems as they arise.
  8. Check wheel bearings prior to 100k miles / 8 yrs. Subaru will replace noisy bearings through these service intervals under warranty.

Edited by JmP6889928
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

As you scan through this thread, look for the red UPDATES ! ! as I'll update any post that I receive more information on including but not limited to personal reviews of products as I use them, member reviews of products, additional information from manufacturers, new offerings for products that there is already a post for.

 

There are several new UPDATES ! ! postings I put in 6/14 so take a look and I hope they help. If anyone has any updates on their own personal posts, please edit your posts and use the updates format I have above so everyone that scans knows they are new information.

 

Thanks.

John

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Update, waste gate finally it hit the wall.

 

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l293/HAMMERDOWNGT/0523141311_zps5cf4c281.jpg

 

Sense I'm going to replace it with a VF-52. I decide to see if I can move the waste gate back where it belongs.

 

Success;

 

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l293/HAMMERDOWNGT/ae0f2de2-18d4-4fda-a5fc-3c6edc35fb14_zps590d2b61.jpg

 

Tools:

-Oxy-Acetylene torch with rosebud or cut torch

-hammer

-drill with 1/8" & 3/16 bit

-3/16"x3/4" new roll pin

-Good bench vise

 

Directions;

 

-Remove turbo from car.

-Remove turbine (hot side) housing from turbo assy.

-Clamp in vise

-Drill out roll pin, 1/8" bit (see green arrow). That hold waste gate sleeve place.

-Heat turbine housing around the waste sleeve area, until cherry red.

-Hit wastes gate arm with hammer (The small arm welded to Waste gate Swing Valve Linkage), why'll the housing is red hot. Until waste gate flap is centered.

Note: This mite take a couple heating & beatings to get it done.

-Once centered, let housing cool. After it cooled, dill out roll pin hole to 3/16". ( Went with bigger roll pin to catch more of the waste gate sleeve. Sense the smaller roll pin failed to hold waste gate sleeve in place).

-Hammer home new roll pin, until flush with surface.

Note:Make sure your waste gate moves freely, before reassembly.

 

Disclaimer:

Do it at your own risk. I'm replacing my turbo & had nothing to lose. But was successful in re-centering waste gate flapper valve, With no damage to turbine housing & waste gate swing valve linkage.

Mileage:331487 Retired/Sold

Link to comment
Share on other sites

OEM aluminum and plastic radiator for about $100. The Amazon listing says TYC is the manufacturer, but it (at least in my case) shipped in a Koyo box. AFAIK, it's the same as Koyo's A13091. These are what come up if you search for 08+ WRX radiators. V13091 is Koyo's all aluminum upgraded radiator.

 

Sorry for the Amazon links, but this is a good, inexpensive option for people not looking to upgrade to all aluminum.

 

5MT (not sure if Spec B 6MT is the same) - TYC 13091

 

[ame=http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0041TABQE/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1]http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0041TABQE/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1[/ame]

 

 

5AT - TYC 2778

 

[ame=http://www.amazon.com/TYC-2778-Aluminum-Replacement-Radiator/dp/B000IYR5LK/]http://www.amazon.com/TYC-2778-Aluminum-Replacement-Radiator/dp/B000IYR5LK/[/ame]

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use