What did you do to your 4th gen. Legacy today? Vol - 10

Project Farm tested it:

Finally got my jdm headlights wired in. Been sitting on these for years...

Working on some updates/upgrades...

Going to update the suspension now that I'm almost to 209k miles.

Mevotech aluminum front LCA w/ Proforged ball joints

I had the Proforged ball joints before the LCAs and just decided to run them instead.

Will install in the next week or two once a few other things come in and I have the time.

Also trying to chase what the ECU says is a vacuum leak, but I can't find it for the life of me.

All the vacuum hoses, gaskets, and connectors are new(ish), so I smoked the system.

Found the BoV was leaking just a tiny bit at the intercooler. (not the recirc hose)

Redid the gasket and tested again before reinstall.

The GFB BoV leaks around the piston ever so slightly at 7+psi, but not less.

Put it back together, smoke tested again, nothing.

Start it up, A range is still +13-14.

The joys of chasing phantoms with these cars.

Still, I got to spend most of the afternoon in the garage; so it was a good day.

Oil is oil, you'll be fine

Oil is not oil. You use what you want but you get what you pay for.

Installed:

GS DP

GS EBCS

GS Gaskets from turbo back

JDM grille

OEM turbo Inlet

Flashed my Tuning Alliance 93OCT map

i will say the turbo inlet is not that bad a job I guess the first time around i left the alternator in place and the coolant take attached the second time around it took under an hour to get the one out and the new on in.

Do yourself a favor on the OEM Legacy GT Turbo Inlet install and order ALL the premolded hoses from the deal DO NOT try to use stock vac line its a waste of your time and makes the job MUCH easier. I ordered all the hoses and the inlet and use upgraded clamps vs the factory spring clamps.

Got the parts from Global JDM Auto Parts . They're pallet shipping to DCA for me. No forklift, or residential charges. Now I just have to wait...

These guys are local to me, it's where I picked up my 2.0GT front end and all the parts. Great service from them always!

Oil is not oil. You use what you want but you get what you pay for.

I use any dino oil on my 05 lgt, 345,xxx kms and counting. It's all in how you treat the engine as well.

Got a call from the shop, they finally got the gaskets in. Will likely try and drive down tomorrow to get my flywheel(s) resurfaced and to pick up the finished block. Solid STi steering u-joint should be arriving today as well.

Woo!

I use any dino oil on my 05 lgt, 345,xxx kms and counting. It's all in how you treat the engine as well.

I'll put basically any 5w30 10w30 or 5w40 synthetic that's on sale in my wagon for 3-4k miles. 191k miles and counting. Check often and top off.

I installed my Crawford v2 AOS the other day and man been driving it a bunch and it's running way smoother now I was getting way to much oil sucked into the intake and while going on the highway or heavy throttle it would suck it into the engine and stumble and puff out a huge cloud of smoke and then be fine but not anymore

I also installed my Whiteline rear sway bar end links

Nice I used to use eneos sustina 100% synthetic 0-50 oil is now re labeled as their racing oil and about $2.00 more per quart I have yet to order more

I also use Castrol oil 10w40 full synthetic I do have to say out of all the oils I have used my engine ran the most quietly on the eneos 0-50 and when I was at 3,200 miles on it it basically looked like I had just changed my oil used with royal purple oil filter I'm a little over 200,xxx miles on my 08 legacy almost double the original miles that I have on my 77 Toyota SR5

Don't be so sure that racing oil is a good idea for the street.

Many racing oils have little or no detergent because they expect engines to be torn down after a few races (sometimes every race) to check all the clearances and while it is torn down, clean out all the oil passages. I have heard of drag racers using aircraft oil that contains no detergent but has a huge load of anti-foaming additive. Additives detract from film strength and film strength is the most important spec for a racing oil.

For a street engine, this would be a disaster.

I installed my Crawford v2 AOS the other day and man been driving it a bunch and it's running way smoother now I was getting way to much oil sucked into the intake and while going on the highway or heavy throttle it would suck it into the engine and stumble and puff out a huge cloud of smoke and then be fine but not anymore

While on the subject.... How much oil were you topping off between changes? Currently I have to top off around 1/4 to 1/2 a quart between oil changes. I'm debating if I should start seriously considering running an AOS.

Haven't done anything to the wagon lately other than driving it. Getting pumped for some projects that are going to be coming to a head. My JmP BNR18g should be done before the end of the month. JDM postfacelift headlights are getting sent out to Circuit Demon in a week. When those get done the JDM facelift and S402 fenders are getting done.

Also had a good call with BoozeRS05 over the weekend and we came to an agreement that I'll be taking his specB off his hands in the next month or so. He's keeping the motor/turbo and other stuff from it while I'm in it for the 6spd and aluminum suspension bits. Looking forward to getting the wagon spec'd out.

While on the subject.... How much oil were you topping off between changes? Currently I have to top off around 1/4 to 1/2 a quart between oil changes. I'm debating if I should start seriously considering running an AOS.

I cant LOL loud enough at the use of AOS on street vehicles. :lol::lol::lol: Save your money. Yes they work, but not on a build like yours. Only Subies I have ever built, prepped and maintained that actually needed, used or benefited from their AOS were running north of 28psi and holding those boost pressures for long periods. Only one was street driven and it was friggin scary. Crazy Polish owner, but I loved the guy. All hype except for race cars and the most EXTREME street Subies (cars with chassis twisting torque).

I cant LOL loud enough at the use of AOS on street vehicles. :lol::lol::lol: Save your money. Yes they work, but not on a build like yours. Only Subies I have ever built, prepped and maintained that actually needed, used or benefited from their AOS were running north of 28psi and holding those boost pressures for long periods. Only one was street driven and it was friggin scary. Crazy Polish owner, but I loved the guy. All hype except for race cars and the most EXTREME street Subies (cars with chassis twisting torque).

I think I'm just looking for things to do to it, lol. I'm glad we still got you to speak some sense.

Glad my specB is getting another lease on life and into a ridiculously nice wagon nonetheless! Any Pittsburgh enthusiasts wanna help me pull a motor, and work on an 08 front end swap for my wagon?!

I could be convinced - never hurts to know how to do it for future reference.

Glad my specB is getting another lease on life and into a ridiculously nice wagon nonetheless! Any Pittsburgh enthusiasts wanna help me pull a motor, and work on an 08 front end swap for my wagon?!

I would be tempted to drive up, but pretty sure I can't justify the risk to my wife at the moment...

I cant LOL loud enough at the use of AOS on street vehicles. :lol::lol::lol: Save your money. Yes they work, but not on a build like yours. Only Subies I have ever built, prepped and maintained that actually needed, used or benefited from their AOS were running north of 28psi and holding those boost pressures for long periods. Only one was street driven and it was friggin scary. Crazy Polish owner, but I loved the guy. All hype except for race cars and the most EXTREME street Subies (cars with chassis twisting torque).

I got rebuked on NASIOC for daring to suggest that typical street cars shouldn't have enough blowby to warrant an AOS

I could be convinced - never hurts to know how to do it for future reference.

I would be tempted to drive up, but pretty sure I can't justify the risk to my wife at the moment...

Plenty of beer and food will be had for anyone interested in helping, but I certainly wouldn't expect anyone to drive quite as far as TN. I've got room to stay otherwise.

Already started pulling a bunch of parts. RA flaps are off, steering wheel replaced with an old one, stereo and nav are out, GS MCB, endlinks, sway mounts and JDM rear sway bar coming off tonight. Keep an eye on the classifieds for some stuff soon.

I'll start pulling the front end and draining fluids this weekend after I pick up my 2014 Forester Friday morning.

#IGANSB

Also temporarily installed the solid STi steering u-joint. I'm sure it's not clocked correctly (wheel relative to rack), but I'm going to wait until I've gotten the LH outer tie rod off. Frozen on there real good, gonna need to go pick up a torch to get it off.

I cant LOL loud enough at the use of AOS on street vehicles. [emoji38][emoji38][emoji38][emoji38][emoji38][emoji38][emoji38] Save your money. Yes they work, but not on a build like yours. Only Subies I have ever built, prepped and maintained that actually needed, used or benefited from their AOS were running north of 28psi and holding those boost pressures for long periods. Only one was street driven and it was friggin scary. Crazy Polish owner, but I loved the guy. All hype except for race cars and the most EXTREME street Subies (cars with chassis twisting torque).

On another note here is another rock auto discount code good until august 2

140641095103902331

Be safe out there and keep wrenching and keep the leggys alive!

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