What did you do to your 4th gen. Legacy today? Vol - 10

Thanks guys. I will most definitely miss it that’s for sure. I will also miss the amount of knowledge and info on this forum and especially on this thread.

 

I priced it fairly I believe between it’s low KBB/NADA value and to what I have into it. Cars are not and will never be a way to make $. You will always lose. When your like most of us on here, you will lose even more. Haha

 

Right now getting finances squared up and ready for a new home in the next couple of years to fit everyone comfortably is most important. Toys are important. They give me my sanity so they will be back in the picture ASAP

 

As for Wifeys new truck it will be nowhere close to new. Probable in the 07-12 range with some miles on her. Have had Yukon’s and Sierras in my family for years, many of which went well into the 200s with minimal issues/maintenance and were sold for good $ back still. My MDX has 149k on it n runs like a top still

 

Refer a buyer and I’ll PayPal anyone a nice little commission on the sale

Edited July 19, 2019 by Wooosh

If I refer myself, do I still get the commission? If I had the money, I'd rock two LGT Wagons

Hopefully the next owner treats it with the respect it deserves

All the valve clearances are within spec.

I’m a happy man for that.

Just need to get 5/8 stuck intake bolts out without shearing them off.

Already spent 3-4hrs drilling and retapping the lower starter bolt as some previous mechanic sheared it and left it for me. :argh:

Heat index of 110... it’s toasty out.

Filled/primed engine and turbo are ready to go back in. 6MT STI shifter with KB STS installed. The snick-snick feel on this is amazing. It's a right, proper trans box TBS.

 

Left to do, refill the trans, button-up the TB covers, drop in the engine, install the AC compressor and the rear driveshaft, install the Koyorad VR radiator, fans, connect the coolant lines, fill and burp, connect the harnesses, and prime the fuel system, do final checks and we should be ready for light off.

 

Will be good to hear it alive again.

 

Fingers crossed the mice haven't mucked up anything.

 

Heat Index Real-fill was 100+ as well here.

Hint, make sure all the coolant lines are tight...hint, hint. the ones around the turbo and tank... get the point.

Hint, make sure all the coolant lines are tight...hint, hint. the ones around the turbo and tank... get the point.

 

 

They'll all have Oetiker clamps, and I'll make sure they are tight

If I refer myself, do I still get the commission? If I had the money, I'd rock two LGT Wagons

Hopefully the next owner treats it with the respect it deserves

 

 

 

Yes you would. I’d give a few hund off to just about anyone on the forum that was interested in buying the car. I’d be more than happy to send it to a good home for a few bucks less

My 2 children finally met tonight, the spec b has arrived... well at my office for now, lots of work coming up! I may call the new car rodney... cause it knocks hard!

Got my 6 pack of Mazda Tokyo Roki oil filters. Time to replace the OEM Subaru blue for the good stuff on my next oil change. 200k club here I come

Hi guys, I am trying to confirm the correct ECU part number for a 2009 2.5i non turbo Subaru legacy with push button start system.

 

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

 

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

My right rear has started making a metallic-like squealing when turning right. It's speed dependent, and not gear/rpm related. I can be idling through a parking lot or going through a 40mph turn. I'm thinking it's backing plate, brakes, or bushings. The whiteline rsb feels sturdy enough at rest, though I'll inspect for signs of moving around. Obviously a backing plate can just be bent back into a non-squeal inducing shape.

 

If brakes, (completely possible as I haven't had to replace the pads/rotors in 6 yrs/70k miles of ownership) what's the preferred sporty daily option? A few weeks ago I did a high speed push as hard as I can slow down, and was a little disappointed there wasn't much stopping power after the initial bite. I don't compete, or really drive it that hard. Just something a little more than stock would be fun. I don't need to lock up the pilot super sports, or the likely as3s that will replace them. I'll probably pair whatever pads with napa blank rotors.

Installed a red led light in the back of the ash tray compartment. I've lived too long without a light there. I didn't have the ideal size for the hole so I had to get creative. The 12v socket was perfect for splicing. I'll get a night pic in the next couple of days.

If brakes, (completely possible as I haven't had to replace the pads/rotors in 6 yrs/70k miles of ownership) what's the preferred sporty daily option? A few weeks ago I did a high speed push as hard as I can slow down, and was a little disappointed there wasn't much stopping power after the initial bite. I don't compete, or really drive it that hard. Just something a little more than stock would be fun. I don't need to lock up the pilot super sports, or the likely as3s that will replace them. I'll probably pair whatever pads with napa blank rotors.

 

 

I did Centric Cryo blanks with StopTech street performance pads and a caliper rebuild kit last year for $360 shipped from RockAuto. Plenty for the street (enough to lock up my RE-71Rs) and doesn't break the bank.

I did Centric Cryo blanks with StopTech street performance pads and a caliper rebuild kit last year for $360 shipped from RockAuto. Plenty for the street (enough to lock up my RE-71Rs) and doesn't break the bank.

 

 

I went this same route with Stoptech Cryo blanks, Subaru OEM caliper rebuild kits front and rear, Stoptech SS line kit front and rear, and Hawk HPS pads front and rear. Also cleaned and lubed up the eBrake cables with SylGlIde and replaced the rear eBrake shoes with OEM bits.

Edited July 22, 2019 by SBT
fixt spellingz

July 5th replaced my ac compressor, condenser/dryer, expansion valve, and o-rings. Had previously replaced the blower motor and blower resistor after charging the ac system. Good ole blower resistor went out a week later about the same time the ac stopped blowing cold. July 5th also went and got the ac system charged up. The shop's ac machine overheated. Ended up driving my wife's forester for a week. Went back to the same shop and the damn machine overheated again. At this point, I figured my car was cursed. I went ahead and replaced the ac relay with oem. Went to a different shop to get the ac charged and their machine overheated. Oh, did I mention my sport light started flashing? Yep, just randomly came on in the Texas heat. So last Thursday I change the tranny fluid with synthetic redline and castrol. Damn sport light flashes again. So next day, I drive it to a trusted transmission shop in Austin. Wouldn't you know it, they can't replicate the stored code in the TCM driving it on and off all day. Yesterday, I took the leggy to get the ac charged while it's relatively cool out. All good now. Cool ac and no sport light blinking. I think my legacy heard my cussing about how I'd trade her in an buy a used lexas v6. Love my car. Hate her quirks.

Managed to get the rear diff swapped out to match the 4.44 final ratio.

 

Moved my updated shifter linkage bushings over to the OBXT tranny, also added my little bonus for all this time/labor in the form of a set of Moore Blast Plates. They look fancy now compared to most of the pictures I had seen in the past.

 

 

Install was pretty straight forward. Was a little strange, the "shortest" bolt was still a bit long; maybe it's for other transmissions that are a bit wider, but the same bolt pattern? Beats me, hopefully I don't have to dremel off the end, I might anyway while it's still out.

 

 

Old (202k) motor, mostly stripped down. Moving over things like Fluidamper, new OCVs, thermostat, most of the intake, etc

 

 

Got the newer motor closer to go time. I replaced the TGVs with JDM deletes, nothing really against them just figured it was good preventative maintenance. The sensor for the passenger side was very close to touching the VF52 so I figured it was just a matter of time until it was cooked.

 

 

Twice a day clean up, have to keep paths open for people to walk and not irritate my in-laws.

 

 

Tomorrow is full timing belt service, some hoses that are almost a week late, headers, up-pipe, turbo, and maybe clutch and reattaching the tranny.

If brakes, (completely possible as I haven't had to replace the pads/rotors in 6 yrs/70k miles of ownership) what's the preferred sporty daily option? A few weeks ago I did a high speed push as hard as I can slow down, and was a little disappointed there wasn't much stopping power after the initial bite. I don't compete, or really drive it that hard. Just something a little more than stock would be fun. I don't need to lock up the pilot super sports, or the likely as3s that will replace them. I'll probably pair whatever pads with napa blank rotors.

 

I think it depends on what you like. A lot of people like the Stop Tech Sport pads. I tried them in the fronts but didnt like the feel - not enough initial bite. Switched to OEM/Akebono and love them. They both stop the car and could lock up tires - but they felt different. Project Mu and HPS often also come up in this conversation but I've used neither.

 

If you're interested, I have the Stop Tech sport rears, and Centric parking brake shoes available.

 

On Sunday I went to "Growl Fest" and watched some autocross and drag racing. Some really nice builds out there! Really gave me the bug to get my car finished to start doing autocross. There was also an adoption shelter there and somehow I ended up bringing another husky home.

 

Today I bought a 2002 Forester... only 341,000 miles! Second engine and trans. Going to use it as my daily while I put the LGT under the knife for top feed conversion, turbo upgrade, flex fuel and suspension swap. Plus it will make a nice dog hauler. Finally clean off my parts shelves and get the car autocross worthy! My only major issue with the Forester is it got swapped with an outback trans and so first and fifth are very awkward - polar opposite of my RA 4.44 trans.

 

How come in the photo load how to it says jpg up to 7.64mb can be uploaded but I cant get a photo above 2mb to load?

Edited July 22, 2019 by Sparkey

Was trying to diagnose a stupid electrical problem most of the weekend. Last week I noticed that when my headlights are turned on, none of the running lights were on. I hadn't made any recent changes other than washing my car. In an attempt to diagnose things, also found my left Valenti tail lights aren't working either. Swapped on the factory tail lights and found a burnt tail (clearance light fuse) but still no bueno. Check all the fuses, relays and the headlight switch and parking light switch and they all checked out so I figure it's a stupid ground or wiring issue somewhere. Parking lights come on when the light stalk is set to parking but they all turn off with when the headlights are selected. I HATE electrical

Thanks for the brake feedback guys. I've heard stop-tech brakes don't like being parked wet - e.g. after washing a car and putting it up for the night. (My memory is thinking this may have come from KNS, but I could be severely mistaken)

 

I'll probably address rebuildable/lubable components as well since it's been quite awhile.

 

Especially the latch. Need to lube that latch.

 

How come in the photo load how to it says jpg up to 7.64mb can be uploaded but I cant get a photo above 2mb to load?

I've heard it said that the forum is hosted from an "overheated speak and spell."

Edited July 22, 2019 by seanyb505

Centric Cryo blanks and Hawk HPS were always my go-to and I liked the feel.

Started the huge clean out of the Spec B this car is just so dirty from the previous owner. I have the mats soaking in the mop sink in the bathroom here. I had a spare fob from my 05 so I just programmed it and it works! The car only came with a single NON oem key. I have a spare uncut one I bought a while back so I'll get a local mobile guy to get it going.

How come in the photo load how to it says jpg up to 7.64mb can be uploaded but I cant get a photo above 2mb to load?

 

I've heard it said that the forum is hosted from an "overheated speak and spell."

 

:lol:

 

This is why I host all my images (except for classifieds) on imgur. Saves the forum bandwidth and is much easier.

Well I was bored Saturday ,and had my little kid with me, to do my normal start up and back up the LGT with the bad motor up and down my long drive way.

 

I decided to see if the older lady really put in a clutch in in 2018 ( she did give all paper work). well I backed up to the edge of the drive way, and slipped the clutch at 3500 rpms , tires in front chirped and it took up strong. engine knocking, and smoking lol .

 

stil saving for the motor. More to come.

Some very cool gauge pods here:

 

Scroll down to the bottom of the page

 

http://www.ortizcustompods.com/subaru.html

Edited July 23, 2019 by JmP6889928

Just changed the reservoir hi-pressure cap. What I've noticed so far: steady 90 degrees C idle/cruise oil temperature (previously I could get 100 C easily), no more than 100 C. oil temp while driving hard (previously it could get to 120 C on a hot day on a winding mountain road), no more 'sweet' coolant vapor smell in the engine bay after each drive.