What did you do to your 4th gen. Legacy today? Vol - 10

Yea it's the skid plate with stinger tail, inserted to see how much of the transmission it covers, and a rear differential skid plate.

 

I'm constantly torn between lowering and making an 08 lgt wagon and #rallyracer. Maybe one day I'll have a true rally wagon. Maybe my outbacks second life.

 

 

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Dang I might need to get one of those before going to Yellowstone this summer...

Haha. I figured with plow snow boulders and other things it was worth it. I was originally looking at the 1/8" but decided the weight and cost penalty was worth the piece of mind. So 3/16" and doubled under the oil pan.

 

They run proper rally stages with these so I think I'll be more than fine. And honestly getting the wings on the plastic under shield is a nightmare imo.

 

 

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Wagon upgrayeddz!

Replaced all the brake pads, cleaned up the pins and brackets and applied CBC Brake Quiet while I was at it. And grease.

 

My rotors also need to be resurfaced or replaced. Do you guys think I can still resurface them? They are 2.9cm across and 3mm at the thinnest part of the rotor surface. These are for 2004 STi Brembos.

 

Hoping I don't have to drop cash on 4 new rotors.

 

 

Edit: Nevermind, found my answer on the manufacturer forum.

Edited January 18, 2020 by Enlight

Purchased an 05 outback for my neice and i have been going though it replacing various little things and started to work on the control arms and found these gems, on top of that the brake brackets are half you know what put on. Driver side is done now and passenger side next then all the swaybar bushings are on the agenda.

 

^^ Axle nut looks safe

Compression tested the motor because of paranoid Subaru ownership reasons. Got some 60k coil packs off of a friend's EJ20X, and a set of fresh plugs.

 

Took the Group N motor mounts off and replaced them with the mounts off of the EJ20X, for contrast?

Wait so you... down graded the motor mounts?

 

I'm guessing your compression test was alright then. Aren't you still running waste gate pressure or did you finally get it fully tuned?

 

 

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Got started late this afternoon so only got the engine skid plate on and the left rear hub bearing. Neither were particularly difficult. We'll see how the right rear hub bearing and diff skid plate go tomorrow.

 

Also figured out my tires are indeed m+s which means I can actually go up the canyons. Happy about that.

 

 

 

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Wait so you... down graded the motor mounts?

 

I'm guessing your compression test was alright then. Aren't you still running waste gate pressure or did you finally get it fully tuned?

 

 

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Yup sure did. Been dealing with some false knock issues off load around 2500 RPM, wanted to see if the mounts made a difference since they were free. Car's a lot smoother, but obviously softer. Going to see how the false knock does for a week or two and then make the call on switching back.

 

Compression was good, plugs looked good. Been running 18-20 psi for a bit now, figured it was about time to check things out. Not quite done with the tune yet though - in the finishing stages now though. Lots of hiccups associated with keeping an OE fuel system, and ye olde sensors

Edited January 19, 2020 by awfulwaffle

Makes sense. I'm surprised there's such a difference. Everything I read with group n mounts people say they can't tell a difference. Maybe it's because of your set up.

 

 

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I had to evict a family of mice that decided to live in my hood liner and in the cabin air filter

 

I tend to check the filters on my mom's car when I see her, and her cabin filter was always getting destroyed by mice. It's a little ghetto looking, but hot gluing some aluminum screen material to the filter did the trick. She doesn't have a Subaru, but I think you could do it to our filters too if you wanted to..

Aisin timing kit showed up yesterday. All Japanese components and water pump with stamped impeller.

So it hasn't been said, oddly, but i bought my pump from subaru so i could have a cast impeller, rather than a stamped one. There's been concern about cavitation in regards to the stamped variety. Never seen any proven issue though, but peace of mind is always a good thing with a turbo subie motor.

Oem pump $138 at dealer.

 

Picked up a thermostat, ac and alt belts to do at the same time. I’ll also replace oem heater hoses with the Samco set that’s on my shelf and I have some more Murray constant-tension clamps to swap on my fmic while the bumper is off.

 

Yesterday I installed a Perrin reverse lockout adapter. It’s a little tight on the Cobb sts, hopefully it loosens up a bit after some use, it not, I will need a stronger return-spring. Then I Installed a redline goods console lid cover. WOW, what an improvement in look and feel. Today I’ll do the e-brake boot.

 

Also ordered a replacement xb35 hid ballast to replace a bad one. The bad unit was a warranty replacement in 2015 of the original TRS Retroquick ballast.

Edited January 21, 2020 by Code

This motivates me to get the inserts re-done on the jdm door cards, get them in and have the rear seat reupholstered with some red stitching.

My run won't be done, but I doubt I'll be going back to TiC. That may mean I have to start E-tuning in order to keep the same tuner.

 

My car has never come back worse off but everything has always taken 2 or 3 times as long as it should have and absolute garbage customer service up to and including outright lies.

 

Shops really are absolute garbage in most cases

 

 

I guess, technically, my run isn't completely done. I still own the beast.

Well these got here a lot sooner than expected. I've heard the paint doesn't hold up to winter weather. Was thinking about powder coating them. Any thoughts?

 

Also going to sell the end links as I have kartboy ones. And an extra pair of rear kartboy ones. I'll list them eventually.

 

 

 

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Receiving parts in the mail is always so exciting.

 

Well, open those jokers up. I wanna see 'em on the car. Don't tell me I have to wait till the weekend.

I heard the paint comment too. The ones on my WRX look fine after 3 Michigan winters, though.

Yesterday I installed the Redline Goods e-brake boot. Thankfully I had a bunch of binder-clips on hand to help get it done. The boot is glued to the OEM framework. It want hard, but it did take some time to get everything positioned correctly and trimmed. Overall I’m very happy with the end results. All I have left to finish the SPEC B/ black interior swap is the rear deck lid and the seat belts.

I heard the paint comment too. The ones on my WRX look fine after 3 Michigan winters, though.

 

There was a rear whiteline bar on my 05 when I bought it and it was absolutely trashed. Paint peeling and surface rust everywhere. If I had to guess, I'd say it was on the car for at least 5 years based on the condition of the bushings, but I really have no idea. Car spent its whole life in Chicago/Detroit.

My whiteline bars are THE RUSTIEST THINGS ON MY CAR!

Yesterday I installed the Redline Goods e-brake boot. Thankfully I had a bunch of binder-clips on hand to help get it done. The boot is glued to the OEM framework. It want hard, but it did take some time to get everything positioned correctly and trimmed. Overall I’m very happy with the end results. All I have left to finish the SPEC B/ black interior swap is the rear deck lid and the seat belts.

 

What glue did you use? I've got an e-brake & shifter boot in route from Redline that I'm goin to tackle in the coming weeks.