Camber bolts

This week I am tackling the suspension swap to get a little lower and a little stiffer. I've got KYB adjustable struts (don't remember which ones offhand) and Tanabe springs. I got the whole set-up new with spacers, strut mounts, and camber bolts for $650 on CL.

 

My question is in regards to the camber bolts; I've never used them before. I understand they are generally used to correct alignment but could get me a little more adjustment to hit my 2.5 degree goal without using a camber plate. The instructions in the package said not to use them on struts with a slotted camber adjustment hole.

 

Does anyone have any experience with these? Should I install them or leave them on the shelf?

Camber bolts are a necessity when you have stock suspension, since you wouldn't have a camber plate to adjust that setting.

 

If the struts you bought have a elongated opening for the camber bolt, do not use it. If the holes are circular on the strut opening, use them.

 

Here's a visual representation of what it means:

http://www.gmforum.com/attachments/buick-172/10341d1369667894-too-much-positive-camber-after-strut-replacement-parkavenuequickstruthasslotratherthanhole.jpg

Yeah, that was exactly what I was looking at, unfortunately the slot will not get me quite where I was hoping for. Would using them on the non-slotted hole have any benefit or should I just leave them alone? Any use for the rear?

Your struts will either have a slot or no slot. Most I've seen for Subaru is a non-slotted setup. In that case, your knuckle has the elongated hole to accommodate the camber bolt, and it would be the top hole. I don't think they will not work for the rear because I believe your camber is determined by the lateral links.

I'm assuming that when you say camber bolts, you mean two aftermarket ones for the back, as opposed to the OEM ones for the front struts.

 

I've been using eibach camber bolts for my 99 wagon for a few years now. I've switched between 2004 STI KYBS (w/saggy butt spacers), and a coilover setup, using rear aftermarket camber bolts with both sets. They definitely do the trick, I've just found that places like Firestone don't always like dealing with them, due to their non-oem nature.

Your struts will either have a slot or no slot. Most I've seen for Subaru is a non-slotted setup. In that case, your knuckle has the elongated hole to accommodate the camber bolt, and it would be the top hole. I don't think they will not work for the rear because I believe your camber is determined by the lateral links.

 

Sorry, I wasn't being clear there. The struts do have the slot, I was hoping to eek out a little more adjustment using the aftermarket bolts with the slot, rather than going to a camber plate. Sounds like it isn't going to be a great idea.

 

I'm assuming that when you say camber bolts, you mean two aftermarket ones for the back, as opposed to the OEM ones for the front struts.

 

I've been using eibach camber bolts for my 99 wagon for a few years now. I've switched between 2004 STI KYBS (w/saggy butt spacers), and a coilover setup, using rear aftermarket camber bolts with both sets. They definitely do the trick, I've just found that places like Firestone don't always like dealing with them, due to their non-oem nature.

 

I got four aftermarket bolts with the set up. I had assumed using one at each corner, but again, I have no experience with the damned things and there seems to be a whole lot of conflicting information out there. Glad to hear that I might be able to use them in the back, anything I should know before finishing the swap tonight?

Sorry, I wasn't being clear there. The struts do have the slot, I was hoping to eek out a little more adjustment using the aftermarket bolts with the slot, rather than going to a camber plate. Sounds like it isn't going to be a great idea.

 

Do you need to go negative camber or more than 2 degrees positive? Camber plates should be used in high abuse environments (read: track use) as they won't slip under heavy use and throw off your alignment. Was the car involved in a wreck that necessitates more camber?

Do you need to go negative camber or more than 2 degrees positive? Camber plates should be used in high abuse environments (read: track use) as they won't slip under heavy use and throw off your alignment. Was the car involved in a wreck that necessitates more camber?

 

Car was never in a wreck that I know of. I'm slowly working this car towards a retirement from daily driving to autocross and open track days. I'm looking to go 2.5 degrees negative camber. I think that I can get to 1.8 degrees with just the adjustment slot on the strut. Camber plates may be down the road, but I need to get a rear sway bar, strut braces and more robust end links before I go that route.

I got four aftermarket bolts with the set up. I had assumed using one at each corner, but again, I have no experience with the damned things and there seems to be a whole lot of conflicting information out there. Glad to hear that I might be able to use them in the back, anything I should know before finishing the swap tonight?

 

IIRC you max out negative camber on stock camber bolts around -0.5, could be -1.0 though.

 

From what I understand, it isn't recommended to use aftermarket camber bolts in place of oem. They work in the rear though, since the rear oem struts have round bolt holes. I think you can get -1.5 to -2.0

Setnev and Poosh, thanks for the help. Got the struts and springs installed and got it aligned today. I used the aftermarket bolts in the rear and the stock hardware on the front. I was able to get -1.2 in the front and -1.7 in the back (I think, don't have the sheet in front of me). WRX/H6 brake swap is next on the list. I'm thinking I might need to start a thread for the build.

No problemo, I'm a big fan of offering helpful advice when I can. And yeah you should for sure get a build thrrad going. I myself should, itd be largely retroactive at first tho, but better late than never I suppose.