Conversion 5x100 to 5x114.3 on 05 LGT

Sorry for the crappy pictures, I've took them in 2010.

The offset of the bearing is also a little bit different. Like 3mm if I remember.

I've been using R180 axles because I also run a 6 speed.

Since then, I have a little bit of vibration and I think it's because those axle are to long for my LGT. I'll might shorter them when I have time.

Car didn't ride a lot since all those years.

 

 

 

 

Edited October 23, 2019 by Antho303T

So I'm tempted to pursue this. But hesitant to machine my aluminum trailing arms without some specific measurements and maybe sourcing parts to see how it will fit first. I was thinking about getting Group N '08 to '14 STI wheel hubs all around and then see how it's going to fit that rear arm. What specifically needs to be modified custom with the coilover with the front to accept the hub? Also, I'm assuming it's just STI knuckle up there as boxkita mentioned? I see you mention your R180 but I assume you are running STI axles not spec b and your trailing arm looks to be steel?

 

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Edited October 23, 2019 by SpecDubC

Yes I have STI axles, STI front knuckle. I don't have the measurement. Any good machinist will be able to do the job.

You also need to work for the parking brake to make it works.

So after a referral to TSS Fabrication from a local drivetrain fab guy they told me that they are developing a custom GR series subframe soon (meant for 2008 wrx) but he said "I believe these are the same". If not though, I believe he makes some custom trailing arms so a full rear conversion here could be an option. I think these are race suspension though and not cheap (double wishbone vs multilink)? Also probably a stiff ride, I'm not sure. Would any of that even work given our tower brace locations etc?

 

If it's not a straight swap situation maybe they'd be interested in developing a conversion kit of sorts.

 

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Yes I have STI axles, STI front knuckle. I don't have the measurement. Any good machinist will be able to do the job.

You also need to work for the parking brake to make it works.

I will look into this too probably because I already replaced all the bushings on all my control arms with Whiteline.

 

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you can buy the oem steel trailing arm for cheap so you don't have to cut up your aluminum bits.

I was thinking exactly that and testing fitment at least with that. But then I'd have steel trailing arm with old bushings lol. I'd like to get my hands on maybe one used trailing arm and one of the 08 5x114.3 wheel hubs and test fit. I'm wondering if the difference in axle length could be taken care of at the trailing arm machining level, maybe mill off 3mm from the face of the arm. Could possibly weld in material on the backside if concern is getting too thin at that point. Edited December 12, 2019 by SpecDubC

3mm isnt a big deal. the CV jounts have more plunge allowances that that. id just bolt it all up with the shock out and see if in the range of suspension travel the CV joints reach their limits before you start taking metal off load bearing components.

rock auto has cheap wheel bearings.

rock auto has cheap wheel bearings.

I think they stopped shipping to Colorado unfortunately. Some sort of tax thing because I don't think they wanted to send the notices for sales tax or include it in your purchase.

 

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interesting. they managed to put sales tax on my order

I'll finish my engine and suspension swap in with the new clutch and then I'll worry about it... Been a total rehaul on my current car. I'll have to start a build thread

 

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Found this today:

 

https://www.driveshaftshop.com/import-axles/subaru/subaru-2004-2007-sti-axle-hub-kits-900hp-level-5-axle-hub-kit-2203

 

$2k is a lot, but definitely future proof if shooting for big power #'s. I am guessing they are already the proper length and dimensions for the CV joint position to bolt up to our trailing arms. I am wondering what they suggest for abs and the parking brake though as I assume they would still need to be modified. This might avoid any machining to the trailing arm though.

 

Going to get in touch with them and find out. Maybe they can generalize on their 'proprietary' design.

 

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Found this today:

 

https://www.driveshaftshop.com/import-axles/subaru/subaru-2004-2007-sti-axle-hub-kits-900hp-level-5-axle-hub-kit-2203

 

$2k is a lot, but definitely future proof if shooting for big power #'s. I am guessing they are already the proper length and dimensions for the CV joint position to bolt up to our trailing arms. I am wondering what they suggest for abs and the parking brake though as I assume they would still need to be modified. This might avoid any machining to the trailing arm though.

 

Going to get in touch with them and find out. Maybe they can generalize on their 'proprietary' design.

 

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This is "strizzy" 's custom axle solution for his drag car. https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=237940

 

you can also search for threads started by strizzy for more details on his build and his challenges.

Sorry for the crappy pictures, I've took them in 2010.

The offset of the bearing is also a little bit different. Like 3mm if I remember.

I've been using R180 axles because I also run a 6 speed.

Since then, I have a little bit of vibration and I think it's because those axle are to long for my LGT. I'll might shorter them when I have time.

Car didn't ride a lot since all those years.

 

 

 

 

So while I'm replacing bolt hardware on the rear suspension I noticed the part # for the spec b hub to trailing arm mounting bolts are different for spec b 6mt and even different for -'07MY vs '08MY- . Could be correlated to the 3mm hub discrepancy above with the sti vs legacy. Maybe a length difference the aluminum trailing arm maybe having a thicker mounting face dimension? Otherwise I'm guessing an aluminum vs steel trailing arm issue they used a different bolt material to avoid dissimilar metal contact? Spec B hub same pn 29473AG00B as all BL legacy.

 

Also, on another note the DSS customer service has been pretty non existent. I contact them via their website form, no response, call them and they tell me to email axles@thedriveshaftshop.com . Understandably I was asking some specific questions but mainly which front axles could I pair with their rear axle and hub kit of I were to spring for it? Because I didn't see anything to my knowledge under their products unless it's listed under a wrx package because it's the same? Simple sales question they couldn't answer on the phone or in email, and this was about a month ago!

Edited January 30, 2020 by SpecDubC

the front swap is easy. As you can swap the sti knuckle onto the front.

 

The sti axles are an inch different in length not 3mm. Unless I misunderstood your question?

The 3mm is in regard to that third picture from the quote @Antho303T mentioned with the rear hub between STI vs legacy due to very different geometry with a dual wishbone setup vs multi link. Also CV dimensions might be very different between the SpecB axle vs STI for the rear. I was just speculating on the rear trailing arm SpecB aluminum vs. legacy GT steel dimensionally. The front though I was curious about the swapping, could an upgraded STI axle be used with the sti knuckle?

 

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Just go with factory STI front axles (OEM only) and convert to the STi hub. I never broke an STI axle, even at 400whp and hundreds of launches. The quality of dss axles arent worth the money either.

 

Anyone know if GD STi axles will work in the rear with STI rear wheel bearing? They're the right length.

Edited January 31, 2020 by SAABaruu

So while I'm replacing bolt hardware on the rear suspension I noticed the part # for the spec b hub to trailing arm mounting bolts are different for spec b 6mt and even different for -'07MY vs '08MY- . Could be correlated to the 3mm hub discrepancy above with the sti vs legacy. Maybe a length difference the aluminum trailing arm maybe having a thicker mounting face dimension? Otherwise I'm guessing an aluminum vs steel trailing arm issue they used a different bolt material to avoid dissimilar metal contact? Spec B hub same pn 29473AG00B as all BL legacy.

 

Also, on another note the DSS customer service has been pretty non existent. I contact them via their website form, no response, call them and they tell me to email axles@thedriveshaftshop.com . Understandably I was asking some specific questions but mainly which front axles could I pair with their rear axle and hub kit of I were to spring for it? Because I didn't see anything to my knowledge under their products unless it's listed under a wrx package because it's the same? Simple sales question they couldn't answer on the phone or in email, and this was about a month ago!

 

https://www.driveshaftshop.com/import-axles/subaru/2008-2013-subaru-wrx-and-2006-legacy-spec-b-level-5-direct-fit-front-axles

 

Here is a link to the DSS front axles. I called them and they said it's correct despite being labeled only for 06 Spec.B. They were not aware the 06 Spec.B was different from the 07-09 Spec.B.

https://www.driveshaftshop.com/import-axles/subaru/2008-2013-subaru-wrx-and-2006-legacy-spec-b-level-5-direct-fit-front-axles

 

 

 

Here is a link to the DSS front axles. I called them and they said it's correct despite being labeled only for 06 Spec.B. They were not aware the 06 Spec.B was different from the 07-09 Spec.B.

Thanks for checking on that, but when you say they were 'not aware' that's very disconcerting, do you mean to their knowledge, or maybe they are confident, that there's not a difference in the axles between those years, or they didn't know at all those model years had part differences?

 

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After doing some more research I think I may have found a shop that will do a custom wheel hub here in the South Denver area. I was hoping to get something as robust as a Group N STI wheel hub and get some custom work done as far as the trailing arm mounting side.

 

I get the cheap route might be to machine my trailing arm, but I might want to develop this further as an aftermarket replacement option for people, or group buy, so they can just DIY replace their hubs with these. I am considering Dual lug patterns too so if you are wanting to convert you can do so without having to source new wheels right away, which is the boat I am in. I do not like the driveshaft shop options and pricing, even though I might end up spending that in development. I spoke with CVJ axle who is local to me and who I will probably be going to for the custom axles with proper length and higher spline count and any added reinforcement. As far as their opinion on the driveshaft shop, and my research digging around I hear their proprietary wheel hubs fail all the time. Even though they offer a few, I don't think that wheel hubs are their forte.

 

I have been trying to find a reputable big dog wheel hub manufacturer that would just produce something from scratch custom but they are all afraid of creating stuff that is not just direct OE replacement (spoke to NTN) because of highway safety standards. This though, is the case with anything modified like whiteline adjustable control arms etc. (read the disclaimers, off-road use only). All CYA verbiage so they aren't liable if something failed though in reality most upgrades are probably making your car more reliable and safe aside from having crazy amount of R&D and certifications. At any rate, I digress.

 

With the higher spline count on the STI hub and probably larger bearing I would hope this has a high horsepower rating. If anyone knows what the Group N hub is rated to, and what might be stronger about that?... higher temp lubricants, higher toleranced bearing, larger bearing? I would take the Group N STI hub is probably as a great starting point and then reverse engineering for the trailing arm mounting and dual lug pattern. Also would look at doing this for the front so you don't have to swap for an STI knuckle. Wondering if this approach limits the brake ugpgrade options though?

 

Apologize all the speculation, I need to dig deeper in here and get some answers.

Edited July 20, 2020 by SpecDubC

I’m super interested in whatever you come up with. I was planning to buy the drive shaft shop axles this winter so if you have another / superior option, I’ll join in.

 

If you’re going to make an aftermarket trailing arm, I would suggest to add 1” of inboard clearance for wider tires. That in combo with some trimming of the rear strut tower would enable 315/30/18 on a fender flared car.

I'm working on my conversion too. Aluminum specB trailing arms; weld and redrill the rear mounting holes for the STi rear wheel bearing. Get an axle shop to cut down the STi rear axles to shorten them.

 

Does anyone know if 08+ or 15+ STI front crossmember bolts up as well? Is our front LGT crossmember okay to accept 15+ front aluminum control arms?

I'm working on my conversion too. Aluminum specB trailing arms; weld and redrill the rear mounting holes for the STi rear wheel bearing. Get an axle shop to cut down the STi rear axles to shorten them.

 

Does anyone know if 08+ or 15+ STI front crossmember bolts up as well? Is our front LGT crossmember okay to accept 15+ front aluminum control arms?

 

 

You can just bolt on STI front knuckles and then the STi front bearing to a standard LGT front control arm or spec.b aluminum version. You’ll also need STi coilover ears unless you use a Wisefab knuckle.

 

 

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i'd be interested in the custom rear hubs. And/ir trailing armas