What did you do to your 4th gen. Legacy today? Vol - 10

Emailed Dave about my break-in map for my specB today. New CNT adapter was delivered so I'm hoping to have my DP installed before Monday. Can't wait to get it running right.

Looking forward to having my wagon fixed up soon too. Maybe a month out, but still should be able to take advantage of the fall weather. No more winters for the wagon if I can help it.

Picked up a couple maintenance tools for the Soob Soob

BrushHero - not usually one for infomercial style products but this thing is legit. Crazy amount of torque from just using water pressure. Makes cleaning custom wheels a breeze - worth every penny IMO.

Depstech Wifi Endoscope (WF050) - 5MP camera that streams video to your phone and allows you to get a camera into extremely tight spaces. Should work great for looking in and around the engine bay without tearing stuff out.

Picked up a couple maintenance tools for the Soob Soob

 

BrushHero - not usually one for infomercial style products but this thing is legit. Crazy amount of torque from just using water pressure. Makes cleaning custom wheels a breeze - worth every penny IMO.

I just checked it out, gotta love the cheesey infomercial style. They carry it near me, I may just pick one up since you say it's actually good

Ordered the KillerB oil windage tray/baffle. Hoping it fits with the Moroso 6qt oil pan and pickup tube. It should, right? This California heat has been messing with my oil pressure readings somehow or the oil is just needing to be replaced. Gets pretty low sometimes at a warm idle. Oil actually only has 2700 miles on it but many months of time since then since the car has been sitting.

Also by this weekend I am hoping to install the Whiteline KTA124 arms and get an alignment.

 

Also by this weekend I am hoping to install the Whiteline KTA124 arms and get an alignment.

One frozen bolt made this take 3 days. Went through 5 drill bits drilling out the bolt.

After about a year of slowly collecting the individual pieces, I've installed a DAMD wheel with retrofitted audio controls from an '08-09 into my '05.

Next on the list is to find the time to install the AEM UEGO Wideband in my downpipe and plug it into the right side TGV for monitoring/logging in Btssm.

Been getting really good MPG (21+ city) with the 740s, but that's probably because I'm staying < 6psi on the boost until I have the WB installed to help dial in the injectors.

So, I've been contemplating options in way of quieting my exhaust. When I upgraded to a DOM 1.5 the Stromung exhaust got louder and with a bit of drone. I have a vibrant resonator I was planning to add but I'm afraid it will ruin the Stromung sound.

The Stromung is an uber rare exhaust but I'm contemplating selling it rather than modifying it. I have a Q300 collecting dust in the garage and I figure I could buy some XForce mufflers and custom fit them to the Q300.

Am I crazy? Should I just add a resonator to the Stromung and call it a day?

stock exhaust is pretty quiet...

That's too quiet, I just want the drone gone.

That's too quiet, I just want the drone gone.

You should have just let me buy the Stromung in the first place.

You should have just let me buy the Stromung in the first place.

I just might, assuming the Vibrant Ultra Quiet Resonator doesn't work.

Been getting really good MPG (21+ city) with the 740s, but that's probably because I'm staying < 6psi on the boost until I have the WB installed to help dial in the injectors.

Are you calculating it yourself or using the dash readout?

The dash readout becomes inaccurate once you upgrade to larger injectors. It uses injector pulse width to determine MPG and the IPW for the larger injectors is smaller for the same amount of fuel, so it tricks the car into thinking you're using less fuel (less pulse width).

I think someone might have figured out a way to fix it in the ECU somewhere. The prior option was doing some sort of mod in the data between the ECU and the dash computer, I think.

Ordered the KillerB oil windage tray/baffle. Hoping it fits with the Moroso 6qt oil pan and pickup tube. It should, right? This California heat has been messing with my oil pressure readings somehow or the oil is just needing to be replaced. Gets pretty low sometimes at a warm idle. Oil actually only has 2700 miles on it but many months of time since then since the car has been sitting.

 

Also by this weekend I am hoping to install the Whiteline KTA124 arms and get an alignment.

What brand oil ?

Are you calculating it yourself or using the dash readout?

 

 

The dash readout becomes inaccurate once you upgrade to larger injectors. It uses injector pulse width to determine MPG and the IPW for the larger injectors is smaller for the same amount of fuel, so it tricks the car into thinking you're using less fuel (less pulse width).

 

 

I think someone might have figured out a way to fix it in the ECU somewhere. The prior option was doing some sort of mod in the data between the ECU and the dash computer, I think.

What brand oil ?

Brotella T6. I have only 2700 miles on it but maybe 8 months ago was the last replacement, maybe longer. Not to worried about it right now. Gonna change the oil after installing the pickup/baffle/pan and I’m 90% sure pressure readings will be back to normal. Gauge is pretty accurate with a new sensor.

Hey guys I just bought an 08 legacy 2.5i limited and I really need help on after market side for the engine and to turbo the car. I don’t wanna keep it n/a. I’m new to this community so I definitely need some help.

There's a thread on here somewhere of a guy doing just that. Hope you have a few grand to chuck at it!

Nope, it's the motor that came in my car originally. HAMMER DOWN's motor was a boondoggle in hopes to get the car back up and running for cheap, but it turned out to have a blown head gasket, and upon disassembly, also found it had a cracked valve.

 

Initially, the car would burn oil on cold starts and after idling for a while then getting back on it (i.e. every autocross run besides the first of the day would result in MASSIVE amounts of white smoke from the exhaust). No appreciable smoke out the exhaust while at WOT near redline, no misfiring/knocking and power and boost also showed no degradation. There was a bit of oil in the IC and IC/TB hose, but nothing on the exhaust side of the turbo. From my diagnosis, along with the thoughts from everyone else I'd talked to, it seemed that the issue was worn valve guides/seals. So got the heads rebuilt and put them back on the original shortblock with ARP head studs. While it was apart, the pistons/block deck was cleaned, and I didn't see any cracking of the piston crowns. Cylinders also all looked good, no scoring, etc. The turbo also seemed normal: shaft play was as expected (minimal radially, none axially), and no oil on cold/hot side.

 

My assumption at this point is that one of the ringlands between the two compression rings or between the 2nd compression ring and the oil ring is blown. So it's not visible without pulling the pistons. Obviously, I should have done a compression test before pulling the original motor, but once I bought the spare motor from HAMMER DOWN's car, I wasn't really worried since I was planning on doing a full build of my original motor anyway.

Sorry to hear about the misfortune with Mike's old motor, I am the one who sold it to you. It ran strong in the car when I got it but I didn't run it around long/hard enough to notice any of the issues, even on the video that should still be on FS thread somewhere. Was buying it for STI tranny for my car.

On the white smoke though - isn't white typically coolant burning? Did you ever notice losing coolant? since you had the heads rebuilt that should resolve any issues with seals worn. Asking just to make sure the symptoms are correctly understood.

I had a somewhat similar experience with wife's Tribeca after the HG job. For sometime it started blowing CLOUDS of white smoke at start after sitting overnight. Literally CLOUDS, spewing white smoke all over my backyard (you've seen my backyard, a lot of smoke to cover that). Heads were also done during the HG job - valves, seats, valve seals, heads machined and cleaned, etc. My son revved it few times to high so idk if that had anything to do with it. Same as with yours, it never spit any smoke under WOT.

Before tearing it all apart again I decided to give it a shot with CERATEC oil additive from Liqui-Moly. This stuff supposedly dislodges carbonized deposits around rings, and I figured I will pretty much lose nothing if it does not help. To my own surprise and relief, the white smoke at start disappeared within couple of weeks.

Some people may say it's not going to work but I'd say give it a shot. it's never late to take a motor apart. It also worked for me when my LGT started smoking on WOT (blue smoke though), and just adding it (CERATEC) helped.

$35 vs $3500 experiment always wins in my book.

Hey guys I just bought an 08 legacy 2.5i limited and I really need help on after market side for the engine and to turbo the car. I don’t wanna keep it n/a. I’m new to this community so I definitely need some help.

If it was me - I would find a running turbo engine and get an Iwire solution harness made. Then I think you just need downpipe and crossmember.

Otherwise, here is a pretty good video talking about whats required. You have to acquire a lot of pieces and possibly fab some things up to make it work. There may be a "kit" but I would talk with someone who's used it if so to know what challenges there may be. Theres tons of other videos of people doing it. Just search a little.

There is a value that you have to adjust that the dash uses to calculate mpg. The first pass is multiplying it by the percent change in the scalar, then you can fine tune by calculating mpg yourself over a few full-to-empty tanks. Mine still reads 1 or 2 mog high and hasn't bothered me enough to fix...

Thanks, I’ll try to find that to recalibrate.

I filled it up today to compare and calculated 16.8 mpg which is more inline with what I believe I should have for just city driving. Thanks all for the info about how the MPG is calculated, I didn’t realize it was based on trying to measure how much fuel was pushed through the injectors. I’m going to try to adjust because I’d like it to be as accurate as possible.