What did you do to your 4th gen. Legacy today? Vol - 10

Yeah I just have the cheap gun that comes with my 110psi walmart compressor.

 

Wrapped the metal tip with a ton of pipe tape, eventually one popped out..now to figure out how to get the second piston out without the seal of the first one.

 

Also, eye and ear protection folks. That piston popping out sounded like a gun going off in front of my face.

 

 

Edit re: how to get the second piston out: push the first back in a little. Hold it there with a brake piston spreader/compressor tool. Second comes out.

Edited August 3, 2019 by seanyb505

Rebuilding brake calipers - compressed air not doing the trick to push out the pistons. Can't get a good seal. Any tips?

 

 

I found that you can get a barbed hose fitting with threads on the other end that match the thread pitch of the caliper banjo bolt. Some teflon tape and you got yourself a good seal after screwing it into the caliper. The barbed fitting should be found at any hardware store that has air tool assorted fittings

Next awesome step: seating the dust boot into the caliper, when you have no clear shot at the back, everything is greasy and swelling.

 

Why not buy remans? Because money, and pride.

Decided to try and get the JDM double DIN installed. Got everything put together, and no sound from the driver rear speaker. Checked all the wires, everything is plugged in and signal is good at the harness; plugged the factory radio back in, still no sound; swapped speaker with a known good speaker, still nothing. I'm at a loss for what to look for next.

 

Any ideas?

Decided to try and get the JDM double DIN installed. Got everything put together, and no sound from the driver rear speaker. Checked all the wires, everything is plugged in and signal is good at the harness; plugged the factory radio back in, still no sound; swapped speaker with a known good speaker, still nothing. I'm at a loss for what to look for next.

 

Any ideas?

 

Look for an open in the harness between the radio and the speaker using an ohmmeter.

Yeah I just have the cheap gun that comes with my 110psi walmart compressor.

 

Wrapped the metal tip with a ton of pipe tape, eventually one popped out..now to figure out how to get the second piston out without the seal of the first one.

 

Also, eye and ear protection folks. That piston popping out sounded like a gun going off in front of my face.

 

 

Edit re: how to get the second piston out: push the first back in a little. Hold it there with a brake piston spreader/compressor tool. Second comes out.

 

I use a piece of wood placed between the pistons. When shop air is applied to the caliper both pistons should come out.

 

Try doing a 4 or 6 piston caliper sometime.

Rebuilding brake calipers - compressed air not doing the trick to push out the pistons. Can't get a good seal. Any tips?

 

If you haven't "picked" the dust seals loose, do that - careful not to scrape the piston. Then spray some PBB or Kroil into the piston area on the front side and spray some into the caliper through the brake line port, and let it sit.

 

To create a good air seal, put a small ridge of twine or floss, 1/8-1/4" high or so around your air "tip" about where it would fit in the caliper - this is presuming a tapered tip.

 

Then starting on the outlet side, wrap electrical tape around your tip, and continue to wrap backwards over the ridge. You're trying to create a flange-like pressure point seal, like a fuel line, to push against the caliper brake line port and seal your air.

 

Put your calipers in a bench vise, with some thicker wood in place of the pads to cushion the initial piston movement and to balance the pistons as they come out of the bores, moving to smaller thickness wood to allow them to come all the way out. Make sure you wear hand and eye protection.

 

Then put the air to it, 120-150psi if you can manage it. If one piston moves, but the other doesn't drive a wedge into the back side of the wood block on the moving piston side so that it can't move, but the other piston can, and put the air to it again. The other side should start to move. Coat any exposed piston surfaces and push them back in the bores, and keep at it with the wood and air. Use wedge pieces if one side is moving but the other doesn't or stops.

 

They should pop out with just air pressure.

 

 

Edit: See that you have it out already.

Edited August 3, 2019 by SBT

Look for an open in the harness between the radio and the speaker using an ohmmeter.

 

Electrical diag might be my least favorite thing to do on a car. BUT, I found the issue, door harness pins loose in the connector. Pulled the pins out of both sides of the connectors, cinched them up a bit, back together with a dab of dielectric grease (don't @ me) and we're back in business!

Next awesome step: seating the dust boot into the caliper, when you have no clear shot at the back, everything is greasy and swelling.

 

Why not buy remans? Because money, and pride.

 

To add to the money reasoning. Reman is shit. I used to work for a reman company that their bread and butter was calipers. The rubber components were shit and wouldn't last more than a year. OE rubber all the way. It'll last 10-20 years. Do it once, do it right.

 

One way if you don't have the resources to fully clean your old caliper is to buy a reman (make sure it isn't a Chinese caliper because those companies are known to put chinese castings in a box and call it reman even though it's not) Then rebuild the 'new' caliper with an OE rebuild kit. Freshly clean caliper and new rubbers. boom.

Met up with utc_pryo and brought him a few parts from the OBXT.

Great to meet you finally, love your wagon!

 

 

Pulled the sun roof from the OBXT, interesting exercise.

 

 

Had to plug the hole somehow until the scrapper takes it away.

 

 

Also went to Sam's... found the holy grail of Rotella...

4 Oil changes per 5 gallons.

44 changes for $565

4 changes a year, 11 years of oil.

<$13 per oil change

:lol:

 

Also, when I swapped the engine I checked the shaft play on the JMP VF52.

After 25k miles there is zero shaft play, most impressive.

Also, got 25mpg on the hwy and burned no oil in 330 miles.

Happy camper right here.

 

Based on calculations:

4.11 rear end, 5th gear, 77mph = 3150 rpm

4.44 rear end, 5th gear, 77mph = 3400 rpm

Didn’t really impact the mpg so far in limited testing, curious on long term testing.

I am in the power band more at 3400 rpm, takes nothing to accel and A/C on/off is unnoticeable.

Edited August 4, 2019 by Infosecdad

Today: Met up with Infosecdad to buy some parts off his donor OBXT. His car is gorgeous! It kind of made me ashamed to park my scratched dented pant falling off interior cracking wagon next to his. I've done literally zero cosmetic work to my car in the 9 years I've owned it and it showed compared to his.

 

On the way up I realized tuning the EWG on hot summer night on urban side roads wasn't the BEST idea in the world... I couldn't get the thing on EWG boost without massive spiking. Going too slow resulted in massive integral windup and overboosting once at 100% IWG duty cycle. Too fast with hot header and sub 80F air resulted in insta-spool and again massive overboost. Going to go mess with turning up the "D" gain to see if I can use that to tame spikes. The engine took the 21.5 psi spikes like a champ, but that level of boost will eat the 5EAT in short order.

Edited August 4, 2019 by utc_pyro

What's wrong with the sunroof and how hard is this to pull?

 

 

Any salvageable parts off it you'd be willing to ship?

All this talk about pulling caliper pistons... I was always good with my hands (to hold in one piston to force the other out) and a bike pump hooked up to the adapters that come with my bleeding kit vacuum hand pump. I guess I'm lucky I've never had to resort to wood, bench vices, air compressors, etc

 

Infosec: what's the shelf life on Rotella T6? I always thought most oils had a shelf life of around 3-5 years. If so, the only answer is to get another LGT to double your yearly oil change count

...

 

Infosec: what's the shelf life on Rotella T6? I always thought most oils had a shelf life of around 3-5 years. If so, the only answer is to get another LGT to double your yearly oil change count

 

Oh, I didn't consider that... I guess I need a couple more then just to be safe

All this talk about pulling caliper pistons... I was always good with my hands (to hold in one piston to force the other out) and a bike pump hooked up to the adapters that come with my bleeding kit vacuum hand pump. I guess I'm lucky I've never had to resort to wood, bench vices, air compressors, etc

 

 

I did mine on a bench with a standard issue air nozzle, and about 120psi of pressure. Right out. I have empathy for those whose brakes and bits are corroded ath, but enough air pressure and rust desolver if seized, and there's no reason you can't get them out.

Infosec: what's the shelf life on Rotella T6? I always thought most oils had a shelf life of around 3-5 years. If so, the only answer is to get another LGT to double your yearly oil change count

 

Oh, I didn't consider that... I guess I need a couple more then just to be safe

 

 

Just make it an even half-dozen.

Took a small road trip for a family reunion. On my drive home near my house I smelled something rotten. I realized when I popped my hood that I cooked my agm battery as the smell was overwhelming and the battery was steaming.

 

I'm thinking my alternator may be shot at 219k as the same thing happened a couple of years ago and I just replaced the battery then. I'll most likely pull the alternator tomorrow and test it.

Replaced front wheel bearings and regained cruise control for the 1st time in 5 yrs. Detriot axle hubs came out after only 19k and making horrible grinding on hard turns. Car has no more vibration or noise and steering input is much easier....should have swapped them years back when I lost cruise control due to installing inferior quality hubs.

 

Timken ftw!

 

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Took a small road trip for a family reunion. On my drive home near my house I smelled something rotten. I realized when I popped my hood that I cooked my agm battery as the smell was overwhelming and the battery was steaming.

 

I'm thinking my alternator may be shot at 219k as the same thing happened a couple of years ago and I just replaced the battery then. I'll most likely pull the alternator tomorrow and test it.

The plot thickens. I tested both the battery and alternator at my local auto store. Both are still good. It looks like I'm digging into my power cables. I'm going to go test the resistance of negative, positive and alternator cables.

rhino6303, I wouldn't trust the autozone guy with his hand held tester that much. There is a lot that might not show up on that.

 

Core issue: what is the electrical system voltage under cruse? AP or Romraider can tell you.

 

If it's more than ~14.5V start tracing issues with the alternator or it's reference voltage source.

 

It could also still be the battery. If the cells could be massively out of balance, if so the good cells are overcharging and thus cooking. With a high quality AGM battery (oddisy ot the like) it cans till test good on the parts store tools as they are so much stronger anyway.

Bled my brakes and clutch today using the Motive Power Bleeder today. I need some help on figuring out whether my clutch pedal travel is normal or not - here's a video of it:

 

 

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X3FYNYrv7mQ]Clutch Pedal Travel - YouTube[/ame]

 

 

Also, does anyone know where this hose goes? Looks like a breather hose to me. Gasket for reference:

Looks like a gasket for the secondary air-pump supply hose.

Bled my brakes and clutch today using the Motive Power Bleeder today. I need some help on figuring out whether my clutch pedal travel is normal or not - here's a video of it:

 

 

 

 

Also, does anyone know where this hose goes? Looks like a breather hose to me. Gasket for reference:

 

Whatever that hose is for it looks cut. See if you can find another half of a hose just hanging out? I dont have an air pump or anything, so no idea whats there, but the only other hoses I can think of that big are for the purge valve i believe.

 

For the clutch pedal - that seems normal. Especially if you have the damper removed. Nice pedals... i just got a set myself If you want to be super OCD and verify - you can verify the pedal travel (5.31in I believe) and in the rested position the clevis attaching the master to the pedal should be loose and have zero tension on it.

 

Curious how you like the motive. I use vacuum for bleeding air and dont always have the best of luck so i've been considering getting a motive so I can have every possible method to bleed.

rhino6303, I wouldn't trust the autozone guy with his hand held tester that much. There is a lot that might not show up on that.

 

Core issue: what is the electrical system voltage under cruse? AP or Romraider can tell you.

 

If it's more than ~14.5V start tracing issues with the alternator or it's reference voltage source.

 

It could also still be the battery. If the cells could be massively out of balance, if so the good cells are overcharging and thus cooking. With a high quality AGM battery (oddisy ot the like) it cans till test good on the parts store tools as they are so much stronger anyway.

Thanks for the info. I just pulled apart all of the power and grounds to the alternator, starter and fuse box. There really isn't that much corrosion and the resistance was at or below 0.4 ohms for all of those wires. If the car wasn't toxic to be around last night, I would have checked the voltage at the battery when it was steaming. I do use a decent agm battery (Exide group 24F agm).

Nice pedals... i just got a set myself If you want to be super OCD and verify - you can verify the pedal travel (5.31in I believe) and in the rested position the clevis attaching the master to the pedal should be loose and have zero tension on it.

 

Curious how you like the motive. I use vacuum for bleeding air and dont always have the best of luck so i've been considering getting a motive so I can have every possible method to bleed.

 

 

5.12" - 5.31"*, geez, can't even get some decent help around here!

 

 

In all honesty thank you for that response - I didn't even know what a clevis was. I looked it up in the manual and found the proper section on pedal adjustment. I'm gonna experiment with that a little bit keeping in mind what you said about zero tension.

 

 

I like the bleeder as I don't like having to bother people for an otherwise two man job. Some pointers if you do get it:

 

 

1. I like to prime the tube with fluid before hooking it up to the reservoir in order to introduce less air. However priming the tube can be a little tricky, the fluid will continue to fill the tube even after you stop pumping. I made a bit of a mess as a result.
   
2. You will need to use the second gasket included in the Asian/Ford kit. The one that comes installed on the cap won't hold pressure reliably.
   
3. The cap does not fit on the clutch reservoir, only the brake.
   

Especially if you have the damper removed.

 

 

Are you referring to (F) in the attached picture? I didn't notice whether it was on or off today, I'm the fourth owner of this car. What purpose does this damper serve.

 

 

Back to what I did to by 4th Gen. today, I also sleeved my oil press./temp. sensor wires to make them more abrasion resistant and salvaged my oil press. sensor with new Deutsch connectors.