Gairdner Posted March 1, 2021 Share Posted March 1, 2021 Hi guys new member long time follower I have searched everywhere and need some help bad! Hopefully you good people can save me Quick back story 2005 lgt mt Changed front axles, bearings and knuckle First time I changed to the ultrapower wheel bearings Turned the car on and moved 5 feet and CEL abs and flashing cruise with pl ss on odometer car is in limp mode After alot of research turns out I guess the cheap bearings are no good and mess with the speed sensors. So I order the moog wheel bearings after reading alot of reviews to confirm people have these work on the front. Put the new moog bearings in this time I drive for 10 mins no lights, not in limp mode but have no speed showing! Drive again and wanted to make sure abs was working so I hit the breaks and all the lights come back on same codes same lights but now the speed is showing. So now I am lost next I guess is replace the speed sensors? My thought is the new bearing and knuckle need a new sensor as I guess the old one is worn in for the pervious setup. Sensors have a small groove from rubbing on something but look in good shape. Could it be that the old sensors have to big of gaps for all the new parts. Hoping I really don't have to change the bearings again for the 3rd time. Please I need some help and advise asap! I appreciate all your help Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted March 1, 2021 Share Posted March 1, 2021 Years ago I found Moog's will not work on the fronts, my 05 wagon still has Moog Hubs on both rears. I see your new here, you must use a name brand on the fronts. NSK, SKF, NTN, Timken. Prices seem to vary during the year. Also see JmP's sticky up top about various parts, there are links there to recommended hubs. Years back, when I learned the Moog's don't work on the front, it take me 45 minutes to replace the Moog with a OEM hub. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted March 1, 2021 Share Posted March 1, 2021 (edited) https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/idea-web-links-saved-various-parts-219238p5.html See post #161 DIY, https://legacygt.com/forums/forumdisplay.php/walkthroughs-basic-operation-maintenance-36.html You can find both front and rear diy there. oh, would the service manual help you... http://people.csail.mit.edu/ilh/vacation/ Edited March 1, 2021 by Max Capacity 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gairdner Posted March 1, 2021 Author Share Posted March 1, 2021 https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/idea-web-links-saved-various-parts-219238p5.html See post #161 DIY, https://legacygt.com/forums/forumdisplay.php/walkthroughs-basic-operation-maintenance-36.html You can find both front and rear diy there. oh, would the service manual help you... http://people.csail.mit.edu/ilh/vacation/ Thanks for you input. I saw some people had success with moggs that's why I went with them. I have emailed mogg to see there input. Do you think there is any chance that the speedsensor needs to wear to the new bearing and knuckle. There was a deff wear groove when I first took it out and I feel like replacing everything would cause a gap now? Just my thoughts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gairdner Posted March 2, 2021 Author Share Posted March 2, 2021 Spoke to mogg they said there should be no reason for the bearing not to work now I'm really lost Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted March 2, 2021 Share Posted March 2, 2021 (edited) There is a thread where I have replaced the rear wheel speed sensors. You can see pictures of the wear in my old sensor. If yours looked like that they need to be replaced. First I think you need to find out what CEL code you have. Here is old and new. Edited March 2, 2021 by Max Capacity 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GEE-OTTO Posted March 2, 2021 Share Posted March 2, 2021 You are getting P0500 vs P0501/2/3/4 so that is better than the SS ERR or whatever as that is a CAN related issue (bad controller area network issue). Ive used Timken/Duralast/SFK on all three of my Legacys no problem. Duralast were the most expensive, Timken the cheapest, never a problem. If you are seeing P0500 try new speed senor(s) with the new bearings, if you damage the sensor its junk. Next what axles did you use? Do they seat into the hub fully? Is the hub seated all the way into the knuckle? If the sensor is being damaged the part isn't to spec or the senor is wrong. Also be careful not to over torque the sensor and crack it, upon re-installation. When i encountered the P0500 it was due to a damaged sensor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amm203 Posted March 3, 2021 Share Posted March 3, 2021 If you haven't tried yet, you can isolate exactly which sensor is having issues using the odometer code-reading method. See that method HERE. This should give you chassis codes that common scanners don't pick up. You're looking for a C0XXX code (last three numbers will designate which sensor is malfunctioning). Using vacation pix or googling the C-code will tell you exactly which sensor it is. I had the exact same issue as Max while changing my bearings. One of the sensors looked like someone sanded it down. Only thing I can guess is the failing bearing had a little play which allowed it to rub against the sensor, slowly eating away the plastic housing and rendering it useless at some point. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gairdner Posted March 6, 2021 Author Share Posted March 6, 2021 Years ago I found Moog's will not work on the fronts, my 05 wagon still has Moog Hubs on both rears. I see your new here, you must use a name brand on the fronts. NSK, SKF, NTN, Timken. Prices seem to vary during the year. Also see JmP's sticky up top about various parts, there are links there to recommended hubs. Years back, when I learned the Moog's don't work on the front, it take me 45 minutes to replace the Moog with a OEM hub. So I changed the bearings for oem also new speed sensors and still the same lights and codes. This is ridiculously frustrating now Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gairdner Posted March 6, 2021 Author Share Posted March 6, 2021 There is a thread where I have replaced the rear wheel speed sensors. You can see pictures of the wear in my old sensor. If yours looked like that they need to be replaced. First I think you need to find out what CEL code you have. Here is old and new. [ATTACH]290506[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]290507[/ATTACH] I need your help bud Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted March 6, 2021 Share Posted March 6, 2021 You may have damaged one of the ABS sensors. You need to find out he code the CEL is showing. Do you know how to have a auto parts store or repair shop do that for you ? https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/reading-ess-dtc-codes-your-dash-271094.html 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gairdner Posted March 6, 2021 Author Share Posted March 6, 2021 You may have damaged one of the ABS sensors. You need to find out he code the CEL is showing. Do you know how to have a auto parts store or repair shop do that for you ? https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/reading-ess-dtc-codes-your-dash-271094.html Yeah I will get the codes for the abs asap I replaced both the front senses with brand new ones after a short drive I noticed the sensor had with from the axle protective bearing shield so I feel like the gap for the sensor is wrong and I don't understand why as I double checked or talk double check link of axle and now have OEM everything I really appreciate your input and advice it's nice to have someone who can I'm sure relate Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted March 7, 2021 Share Posted March 7, 2021 Please read your second sentence above and tell me what it says "I noticed the sensor had with from the axle protective bearing shield" 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gairdner Posted March 8, 2021 Author Share Posted March 8, 2021 Please read your second sentence above and tell me what it says "I noticed the sensor had with from the axle protective bearing shield" Haha sorry was in such a state typing my bad. Was surpose to say, I noticed the sensor has wear from the axle sheild I guess the axle sheild is to far forward in the knuckle and rubs on the sensor. I think I caught it early so I took them out with minimal damage and now running with none until I can figure out wear the problem is Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted March 8, 2021 Share Posted March 8, 2021 In post 6 you see where my shield wore the sensor. Is that what yours looks like ? 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gairdner Posted March 8, 2021 Author Share Posted March 8, 2021 In post 6 you see where my shield wore the sensor. Is that what yours looks like ? Yes sir same spot just no wear near as bad minimal damage as I caught it pretty quick What did you do to to yours to stop it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted March 8, 2021 Share Posted March 8, 2021 Bend the metal shield back. I assume that's what caused the wear. That shield is just a dust shield. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gairdner Posted March 9, 2021 Author Share Posted March 9, 2021 Bend the metal shield back. I assume that's what caused the wear. That shield is just a dust shield. Going to try that. Hopefully that fixes the signal problem as well I imagine it can not fiction correctly if the sensor is vibrating getting rubbed by the shield Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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