GEE-OTTO Posted April 9, 2013 Share Posted April 9, 2013 Hello folks, ive hit 130K miles on the ol gal so ive been doing all the routine stuff (VC's, brakes, fluids) now its time for suspension, yay. Parts list: KYB Excel-G all around (339097 L, 339096 R, 341353 x 2) KYB rear mounts (SM5214 x 2) OEM Front mounts (20320AG00A x2) Tein-Htechs Subaru Legacy GT Specific More parts showed up Now if only the front mounts would...... All for $661.72 shipped not bad considering the springs were $220:redface: Paired with the 225/45/17 N5000's + solid 20mm RSB + rear tower bar +strut tower bar+ tribeca fsb ought to be firm in the corners! Ill be building the struts on the bench and simply bolting them in, followed by a trip to the alignment shop. Ill be selling the fronts for the Koni crowd Any suggestions before the stuff arrives? I have spring compressors, air tools good hand tools. I am wondering if there is a particular orientation the springs should be placed on the perch to prevent the chirping some user complain about. ***Assembly Did the rears while I wait for my front strut mount Tools: 3/4" (19mm) socket 6mm hex key 1/2 and 3/8 inch drive ratchets Spring compressors 17mm wrench **Note I dont have a vice nor workbench to clamp the assembly into so I use my kitchen table and an extension to prevent the shock body from turning while tightening things up/compress-decompressing springs http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r182/GEE-OTTO/IMG_1538_zps6ca30789.jpg Compress your springs by placing the compressors on each side of the spring (180 degrees apart) and alternate the coils clamped. Also make sure not to use the bottom coil as it will result in the spring resting against it when decompressed and you wont be able to pull it out. Good: http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r182/GEE-OTTO/IMG_1531_zps1ea64008.jpg Bad: http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r182/GEE-OTTO/IMG_1530_zpsd15bae7c.jpg Alternate tightening the clamps to evenly compress the coil. Once finished place the spring on the shock. **Note the tightly wound coils are the top while the not so tight coils are the bottom. Also the bottom coil fits right into the notch on the lower spring perch use this as a guide to keep the mount, rubber and coil aligned when decompressing the spring.**** http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r182/GEE-OTTO/IMG_1532_zps6d6253f5.jpg Then place the spring rubber (that what I call it maybe b/c im a NASCAR fan ) and mount atop the coil. http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r182/GEE-OTTO/IMG_1533_zps5abe1856.jpg Use the supplied lock nut and add a washer to the mix (my KYB's only came with the lock nut no washer:mad:).Hand tighten. Now this is the part where a vice and bench will make your life much easier but if you are like me or assembling in the parking lot use a 3/8 extension or bolt and place the whole assembly such that the shock body wont turn. I placed it in the tray that the compressors came it then used my 6mm hex socket and a 17mm wrench. The trick is to hold the nut with the wrench and turn the hex (the shaft) inside the nut to tighten. http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r182/GEE-OTTO/IMG_1536_zps39d493f8.jpg The mout and spring rubber will be tilted this is fine once the nut is tight the mount will be level. http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r182/GEE-OTTO/IMG_1535_zpsbf542dae.jpg Once the mount is tight back the tension off but not all the way as you need a little play in order to align the two body stud correctly. This doesnt need to be 100% perfect but you can get it VERY close. I used the extension to represent the axis of the control arm bolt. The two studs be perpendicular to the bolt head. http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r182/GEE-OTTO/IMG_1521_zps7ea51400.jpg Once aligned back the tension all the way off making sure the lower coil rest at or near the lower spring perch notch. Done with 1/4" saggy butt shims on top! Fronts are complete all 4 corners are installed whoever said the rears where "cake" must not have been installing on a Legacy they were the worst even with the shock top mount disconnected and the RSB off the suspension doesnt drop. It is like the trailing arms have elastic torsion bushings or something. I had to use a jack in order to align the suspension with the shock bottom mout and by that I mean push the rear assembly down with a scissor jack to meet the bottom mount. Other than that it was a breeze the front took about 20 min a piece to install the rear took 1.5 hours 1 hours on the first side then using my newly gained knowledge .5 for the other Only issue i have is that the front passenger side sits a tad higher, Im hoping this settles out over the next 500 miles if not i guess ill have to go back in and see whats up. Pictures coming SOON! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N.sane Posted April 9, 2013 Share Posted April 9, 2013 I have to stress this: be VERY VERY VERY careful with the nuts for the tophats. I've snapped them twice. I think they only need like 12 ft-lbs. I can confirm when I get home since I have the full service manual (unless you already know the specs). And I hope the H-techs don't reduce your suspension travel to the point where you're hitting the bump stops on bumpy roads. That's why I got rid of my Vogtland/Koni setup. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GEE-OTTO Posted April 10, 2013 Author Share Posted April 10, 2013 Yeah I've talked to a few owners with the same setup in this area and they all have had positive experiences and DC metro area roads can be bumpy. You mean the three strut studs?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drift Motion Posted April 10, 2013 Share Posted April 10, 2013 12 ft/lb sounds about right Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N.sane Posted April 10, 2013 Share Posted April 10, 2013 Yea, the 3 nuts where the strut bar would go. Confirmed in the manual it's 14.5 ft-lb. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GEE-OTTO Posted April 10, 2013 Author Share Posted April 10, 2013 Yea, the 3 nuts where the strut bar would go. Confirmed in the manual it's 14.5 ft-lb. Searched thru my FSM yesterday. Ive had them off before to install the tower brace and they are hand tight. I had that problem on my old GA GT. I put Intrax suspension in place of stock garbage sheared the rear shock studs off using an air ratchet to tighten, it was the mount but added a half day finding a GM dealer that stocked it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GEE-OTTO Posted April 10, 2013 Author Share Posted April 10, 2013 Yea, the 3 nuts where the strut bar would go. Confirmed in the manual it's 14.5 ft-lb. One more Q's should I buy spacers?? 3/8 or 1/4 ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N.sane Posted April 10, 2013 Share Posted April 10, 2013 I've never used spacers on my suspension. Why do you need spacers? Do the H-techs cause a saggy butt? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GEE-OTTO Posted April 10, 2013 Author Share Posted April 10, 2013 I've never used spacers on my suspension. Why do you need spacers? Do the H-techs cause a saggy butt? No I thought that was just what people did when replacing OEM suspension. However I would like the rear to sit a tad higher than the front so...maybe yeah:redface:???? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N.sane Posted April 11, 2013 Share Posted April 11, 2013 Up to you man. From what I've seen, the H-techs provide a pretty even stance. I feel like a raked stance on this car would hurt handling and braking stability a bit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GEE-OTTO Posted April 11, 2013 Author Share Posted April 11, 2013 Up to you man. From what I've seen, the H-techs provide a pretty even stance. I feel like a raked stance on this car would hurt handling and braking stability a bit. Good point and after 1-2K miles they will "settle" in Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickB34 Posted April 16, 2013 Share Posted April 16, 2013 Definitely saggy butt with the H-techs... I could probably snap a pic if you would like. If I had it to do all over again I would have gotten the spacers. I'm curious why you're replacing the mounts... just to be able to assemble on the bench? Sounds a little expensive, I did this about 6 months ago and purchased the springs for $180 on ebay and the struts for $220 shipped to my door from Amazon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theflystyle Posted April 16, 2013 Share Posted April 16, 2013 lots of good stuff there. if you need any help with the installs let me know, id be happy to help Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GEE-OTTO Posted April 17, 2013 Author Share Posted April 17, 2013 Definitely saggy butt with the H-techs... I could probably snap a pic if you would like. If I had it to do all over again I would have gotten the spacers. I'm curious why you're replacing the mounts... just to be able to assemble on the bench? Sounds a little expensive, I did this about 6 months ago and purchased the springs for $180 on ebay and the struts for $220 shipped to my door from Amazon. Well i went with new mounts as insurance incase the old ones are beat to shizzle but I realized I cant assemble ahead of time b/c i need the upper cap piece that is on the OEM suspension. The fronts are no question getting replaced as that bearing is prone to failure that you get the "clunk" the rears I may reuse if they are in good condition and simply return the new ones to the store. If possible can you get a pic of the saggy az-butt:redface: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GEE-OTTO Posted April 17, 2013 Author Share Posted April 17, 2013 lots of good stuff there. if you need any help with the installs let me know, id be happy to help You know I just might lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subarulegay Posted April 17, 2013 Share Posted April 17, 2013 I was actually looking at the doing the same exact set-up havnt gotten the struts yet since we dont get same deals in canada but i do have the htechs and 3/4 butt spacers...looking forward to see the look and feel if you upload pics Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GEE-OTTO Posted April 18, 2013 Author Share Posted April 18, 2013 I was actually looking at the doing the same exact set-up havnt gotten the struts yet since we dont get same deals in canada but i do have the htechs and 3/4 butt spacers...looking forward to see the look and feel if you upload pics Yes as soon as FredBeans ships my OEM strut mount I can begin. 3/4 spacers are thick! Im going with 1/4 shims in the rear to net a slightly higher rear end once the H Techs settle (1-2K miles) Def will have pic and install notes up! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickB34 Posted April 19, 2013 Share Posted April 19, 2013 Well i went with new mounts as insurance incase the old ones are beat to shizzle but I realized I cant assemble ahead of time b/c i need the upper cap piece that is on the OEM suspension. The fronts are no question getting replaced as that bearing is prone to failure that you get the "clunk" the rears I may reuse if they are in good condition and simply return the new ones to the store. If possible can you get a pic of the saggy az-butt:redface: Sorry, been out for a few days... let me see if I can get on tonight, I'll post it up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickB34 Posted April 20, 2013 Share Posted April 20, 2013 You can see how just a little bit more in the back would level things out... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GEE-OTTO Posted April 20, 2013 Author Share Posted April 20, 2013 [attach]149116[/attach] You can see how just a little bit more in the back would level things out... Yeah that is what I feared, but no worries I already have spacers (1/4" ) but that sag makes me wonder if i needed 3/8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DelawareBlueHen724 Posted April 20, 2013 Share Posted April 20, 2013 Pics with the H-techs please!! I have an 09 as well and I've narrowed the debate to either coils or h-tech springs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GEE-OTTO Posted April 20, 2013 Author Share Posted April 20, 2013 [attach]149116[/attach] You can see how just a little bit more in the back would level things out... Pics with the H-techs please!! I have an 09 as well and I've narrowed the debate to either coils or h-tech springs. The above picture is a 2.5i on Htechs :lol: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
captainobvious Posted April 20, 2013 Share Posted April 20, 2013 i ordered the 1/4 spacers for mine, Have the same setup as OP. Leveled out the ride really nicely. Got spacers and longer stud bolts from http://www.paranoidfabrications.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GEE-OTTO Posted April 23, 2013 Author Share Posted April 23, 2013 Any advice on which type of tool i need to stop the strut shaft from spinning? I have the 6mm hex key but i dont have a pass through or deep socket boxend to secure the 17mm crimp nut. VERY annoying might I add as ive got both struts out and my 17mm wrench wont fit down in the recess to stop the nut while i turn with the hex key Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GEE-OTTO Posted April 23, 2013 Author Share Posted April 23, 2013 Found the answer to this one of course I'll have to go get more stuff dammit http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/productImages/300/a1/a1bc6700-6c7e-4069-a2fb-a8231954257c_300.jpg the only other way is to take a grinder and flatten two sides of your least favorite 17mm deep socket and use adjustable wrench or closest size wrench to stop it from turning the strut rod. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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